For me, this has been a standard procedure for many years, essentially as you describe (though rarely quite as wide open a crack as you show). I have always used Titebond or the like as the adhesive. You will want to lower tension on the strings a lot, for that large a gap, no pitch so to speak, and possibly lower it more as you tighten clamps. I remove screws, pull it together with clamps, then drill all the way through at the points where the screws were for 5/16" to 3/8" bolts (in line with the diameter of the existing plate holes). Install carriage bolts (head from the back), with a washer, don't tighten nuts. Remove clamps so it opens up, insert glue, spread with metal spatulas (pallet knives from art supply house), re-clamp, tighten bolts.
I find the bolts are really enough to hold it together, and I have successfully tuned right away on several occasions (avoiding a second trip on an old upright), with quite reasonable tuning stability and no subsequent problems.
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Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
http://fredsturm.net "When I smell a flower, I don't think about how it was cultivated. I like to listen to music the same way." -Federico Mompou
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Original Message:
Sent: 09-21-2014 16:59
From: Anthony Pascone
Subject: Catastrophic Joint Failure on Sohmer 45 inch studio
Friends and Colleagues,
The attached photo is looking from treble side to bass, top view, of the failed glue joint between the back and pinblock of a Model 45 Sohmer studio. With the lid raised, you can clearly see the 3/8 to ½ inch gap that has allowed the plate and action brackets to cant toward the keyboard and make the instrument totally unplayable. The gap extends nearly to the lower edge of the pinblock. Before rushing into the project and as this is a piano worthy of a go at repairing it, I wanted to gather some collective wisdom and experience of anyone else who might have seen and dealt with this problem.
Right now my thinking and procedure lines up like this:
1. Remove action, keys, etc.
2. Decrease tension, but not remove the strings.
3. Remove top plate bolts
4. As the only access to the glue joint is from top, remove as best as possible any wood chips that might be showing proud in the joint with various thin cutting tools. Blow out with high pressure air.
5. Dry fit with multiple clamps along the entire length of the fault to ensure there has been no side slippage between the pin block and the back. As the lower plate bolts will be not be removed, the side movement should be minimized or eliminated at best.
6. After removing clamps and wedging the gap as wide open as possible, apply slow setting glue into the gap using thin glue spreaders and multiple glue persons along the entire length of the gap. Right now I am thinking cold hide as my first choice, but definitely open to other suggestions.
7. Clamp along entire length of glue joint. Allow to set up.
8. Replace top plate screws with large bolts that go thru the entire pinblock and back assembly.
9. Bring strings back up to tension, reassemble action and keys and tune.
I am concerned about the amount of access that the gap allows for applying adequate glue. I welcome any comments or suggestions.
Best to all,
Anthony J. Pascone RPT
Registered Piano Technician
Pascali Piano
(919) 309-7788
www.pascalipiano.com