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   RE: Yamaha GH1 scale
 From: Peter Grey
 To: Pianotech
 Posted: 12-07-2017 18:24
 Message: Nate,

You can start with a piece of 1" - 1.5" diameter brass, about 200g or so. Drill a hole through the center and attach it to the underside of the SB directly under (and screwed into) the tail end of the low tenor bridge. If there is already a soundboard button there, all the better...take it off and use that hole. If not, just locate carefully so you go into the bridge.

See if that makes any difference (improvement). If so, make another weight at 300g or 400g and try them out. If one sounds better than another use the one that sounds best. It is largely trial and error...going too far and then backing up.

For riblets, Del's brother Darrell will sell you a set of riblets (a dozen I think). Experiment with them between the existing ribs. Its nice when you have buttons installed in between the ribs. Just take them off and substitute with a riblet. If it does nothing, or you don't like it, just take it off and put the button back on.

There is an article in the journal several years ago on this. I don't recall the issue. Someone else might though.

The general idea is that you are trying to slow down the transfer of energy to the soundboard, increasing its impedance. This tends to even things out, increase sustain, reduce explosive sounds, etc. Completely reversible until you decide to permanently attach them. It also has a tendency to be cumulative in nature. Don't expect one riblet, or one weight to produce miraculous results. Put them on, evaluate, remove, evaluate, repeat, etc. In conjunction with some judicious rescaling, probably a nice result can be had.

Pwg

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Peter Grey
Stratham NH
603-686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com
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Original Message:
Sent: 12-07-2017 17:46
From: Ed Sutton
Subject: Yamaha GH1 scale

A nice pair of springy wool socks, rolled up and stuffed between the soundboard and a beam or console plate, can take some of the edge off those "boinging" bottom tenor notes! Try to get them just below the end of the long bridge. Experiment with how tightly to wedge them in.

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Ed Sutton
ed440@me.com
(980) 254-7413
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Original Message:
Sent: 12-07-2017 17:34
From: Nate Reyburn
Subject: Yamaha GH1 scale

Thanks for the info. Following up on this with Alredge. If there's known drop-in strings that help dramatically, that would be a great way to go.

FWIW, this is a customer piano and there are complaints about that area of the piano.

Is there more info on the short auxilarry rib or weight addition, Del?

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http://www.facebook.com/ReyburnPianoTech
http://www.reyburnpiano.com

Original Message:
Sent: 12-06-2017 12:16
From: Larry Messerly
Subject: Yamaha GH1 scale

Important information missing. Is this Nate's piano or a client's piano? Is the customer complaining?

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Larry Messerly, RPT
Bringing Harmony to Homes
www.lacrossepianotuning.com
ljmesserly@gmail.com
928-899-7292

Original Message:
Sent: 12-06-2017 01:31
From: Delwin Fandrich
Subject: Yamaha GH1 scale

Doing it now, I would also add a short auxiliary rib.

ddf

--
Delwin D Fandrich
Fandrich Piano Company, Inc.
Piano Design and Manufacturing Consulting Services -- Worldwide
6939 Foothill Ct SW -- Olympia, WA 98512 -- USA
Phone 360.515.0119 -- Mobile 360.388.6525



Original Message------

Del Fandrich and I did one of these for one of my clients a few years ago with reasonably good results. I believe we had to add at least one hitch pin to the plate. We kept the original trichord agraffs, and just used the outside holes. The trichord dampers worked fine as bichord dampers.

Del also installed a pretty hefty brass weight to the underside of the end of the bridge to help lower the volume and increase the sustain of those last couple of notes.

A key part of these types of jobs is lowering the client's explanation. Del was clear to tell the client that the problem won't be fixed, but it will be "less bad".

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Ryan Sowers
Olympia WA
360-705-4160
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