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teflon impregnated action center bushing cloth

  • 1.  teflon impregnated action center bushing cloth

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-27-2017 11:11
    Hi All,

    The subject line would have been even longer if it included the problem (allegedly) encountered with same.

    Steinway D, less than five years old. Original action parts manufactured by Steinway New York. Complaint was that the action was too light. (And this from a world-class pianist and highly sought-after teacher, who has much more knowledge about how the darn thing works than the do the vast majority of his peers.) Static Touch Weight measurements were not too far off (and the hammers were not too hard, which can contribute to the perception that the action is lighter), but key bushings and balance holes were too loose, as were 90% of the hammer flange action centers. Dealt with the keystick contact points. There was evidence that many of the hammer centers had already been repinned, and yet were still unacceptably loose. The technician who normally services this instrument confirmed that this was indeed the case. (Our normal working spec is five swings of the hammer when dropped from horizontal while holding the flange still at vertical, with the amount of friction on each side either identical or close to it.) 

    So, what I want to find out is this: Have others had the experience of repinning these kinds of parts (to reduce friction to similar, optimal condition), only to have them promptly loosen up again (and I don't mean a little, but to 10, 20, 30 and more swings)? We have repinned the hammer centers and were cautioned by someone with much more experience with these parts than I have that they will just loosen up all over again. Gosh, I sure hope those hours of repinning were not all for naught.

    Alan

    ------------------------------
    Alan Eder, RPT
    Herb Alpert School of Music
    California Institute of the Arts
    Valencia, CA
    661.904.6483
    ------------------------------


  • 2.  RE: teflon impregnated action center bushing cloth

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-27-2017 11:49
    I have had that problem. First time was 10 years ago, when our new D was down (up) to <1 gm (10+ swings). I removed the pin, tried a larger 1/2 size, and it was VERY TIGHT. So I reamed it to spec, which took a bit more reaming (Mannino style) and burnishing than I would have expected. After doing this for a few, I experimented with just putting the old pin back in after removing it. Suddenly it was 3 - 5 swings. 

    I stopped, and checked the piano the next day. The ones I had reamed and re-pinned up 1/2 size were at 1 gm, as were the ones I had removed and put back in. Since nobody was complaining, and the joints felt solid, I decided to leave it and adopt the theory that firm and free is OK.

    A few years later, I became less enamored of firm and free, when free gets to <1 gm and 10+ swings. I had been having success with the process of burnishing hard and fast to produce heat, almost never removing any felt, so I decided to try that on the teflon impregnated bushings. It works, but is touchy. It takes some experimentation to decide how many strokes/how hot will work. This does produce more reliable results, that last, at least to the point of >1 gm, <10 swings.

    A few years back, when there was a long thread about burnishing with long center pins, Joe Goss offered to make me some 3' ones of sizes I would specify. He did that by straightening music wire. I didn't end up using them that long, but I do like to use a 12 - 18" pin so I don't need to worry about the end emerging and punching out a bushing. Jurgen sells European long center pins, which would serve the same purpose. (They are made for pianos that have one pin per octave of hammers, fairly common in the 19th century).

    ------------------------------
    Fred Sturm
    University of New Mexico
    fssturm@unm.edu
    http://fredsturm.net
    http://www.artoftuning.com
    "We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
    ------------------------------



  • 3.  RE: teflon impregnated action center bushing cloth

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-27-2017 13:23
    Hi Fred,

    Among the many protocols that we have adopted from you is your burnishing-weighted approach to repining (mostly burnishing, rarely reaming). It has definitely increased the long-term stability of our work by a substantial margin. Thanks for that! We used this approach with these NY Stwy parts of recent vintage. We will definitely revisit them down the road to monitor stability.

    Speaking of which, what is your preferred method of ascertaining hammer center pinning friction while the hammer assemblies are still mounted on the rail? Personally, I lift them all up and then slowly and evenly push them back down with a straight-edge applied to the shanks of a given section, near the hammer head. Note the first and last to fall, and remove and swing them to know (quite reliably!) the range of that entire section. (Guess that doesn't really qualify as checking friction without removing them from the rail, but it is as accurate as removing ALL of them while only removing key samples, which amounts to about ten percent of them.)

    Best,

    Alan

    ------------------------------
    Alan Eder, RPT
    Herb Alpert School of Music
    California Institute of the Arts
    Valencia, CA
    661.904.6483
    ------------------------------



  • 4.  RE: teflon impregnated action center bushing cloth

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-27-2017 15:20
    If you lift handfuls of hammers and release them all at once, it's easy to see which bounce the highest.

    ------------------------------
    Susan Kline
    Philomath, Oregon
    ------------------------------



  • 5.  RE: teflon impregnated action center bushing cloth

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-28-2017 19:38
    I've had very stable results coating the bushings in Renner parts with a 6B Staedler pencil prior to the final insertion of the center pin (I ream prior to that with a file-roughened center pin in a pin vise). This lubricates and burnishes the bushing, and is what Renner has done for decades, at least since I started in the 80s.

    Teflon is a great material but is clearly too slippery in some applications. I wonder what graphiting the Teflon-impregnated bushings would do. I know many techs are anti graphite these days, but graphite has higher friction than Teflon and has never given me problems in center pin bushings. I suspect Fred will chime in saying that graphite causes squeaks. Even in center pin bushings?


    ------------------------------
    Mario Igrec, RPT
    http://www.pianosinsideout.com
    ------------------------------



  • 6.  RE: teflon impregnated action center bushing cloth

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-28-2017 19:57
    Yes, they do. And we complained about it bitterly. I can't begin to count the number of action centers we had to repin after putting an action on our "pounder" for an hour or two. It was a nightmare! Then the piano would ship and we got to pay to have more centers repinned. We traced it to the graphite. We were told the problem was unique to us -- the "German manufacturers" were not having these problems. It wasn't until many years later that we found that at least some German manufacturers were having similar problems -- they just hadn't traced it to the graphite. 

    ddf 

    --
    Delwin D Fandrich
    Fandrich Piano Company, Inc.
    Piano Design and Manufacturing Consulting Services -- Worldwide
    6939 Foothill Ct SW -- Olympia, WA 98512 -- USA
    Phone 360.515.0119 -- Mobile 360.388.6525





  • 7.  RE: teflon impregnated action center bushing cloth

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-28-2017 20:26
    Interesting.

    As for teflon, after thinking it was pretty inert and harmless for decades, I find out that it's toxic, especially in large quantities, and that it doesn't degrade, so it goes on being toxic, especially when heated. So what do they use it for? Lining frying pans, of course. When used with high heat, the fumes from the pans kill pet birds. I'm sure they don't do people a whole lot of good, either.

    Teflon is slippery as all get out, even when it didn't need to be, but it isn't quiet, like the cloth spring liners in upright damper flanges used to be.

    I found a new click in Steinway repetitions, because instead of a center pin inside a cloth bushing, they began mounting the repetition spring on a teflon post. If I remember right, Eric Schandall recommended twisting the spring to get rid of it.

    I replaced my teflon powder with pure 100% talcum powder for rubbing into knuckles with a scrap treble hammer.

    I just don't like goop of any kind in centers. Why this need for dosing them with things? Find a cloth which doesn't interact with brass or nickel, use unplated center pins, fit carefully. Keep everything greasy or dissolved in a solvent at a distance. What's not to like?

    I think that even treating them with heat needs to be done before they are assembled, to protect the birdseyes from getting charred or enlarged from the center pin swelling when hot.

    I dared complain at a Steinway class when they said to treat the centers with methanol. Methanol is toxic. I won't have it in the house. What's wrong with ethanol? They went right on saying to treat them with methanol. I read on a safety sheet that small children have died from drinking a tablespoonful of methanol. Well, that's the horrid old methanol, beloved of generations of piano technicians. The EPA got after it, so it isn't as bad -- but why have it bad at all?

    <grumble, grumble ...>  HAPPY NEW YEAR  <grumble>

    ------------------------------
    Susan Kline
    Philomath, Oregon
    ------------------------------



  • 8.  RE: teflon impregnated action center bushing cloth

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-29-2017 23:31
    Getting back to the original material, the teflon-impregnated bushings, it is a different animal from standard felted cloth bushings, in that the fibers are less compressed. The teflon material stiffens them, as well as serving as a lubricant. If they seize up (I have never experienced it, but I gather it happens in some climates), the recommendation, as Susan notes, is a drop of methanol, which partially dissolves the teflon material. It then re-hardens around the pin. And the Steinway techs will tell you that if you apply more than a drop, it will tend to wash out a fair bit of teflon, and you'll end up with a spongy bushing that will probably require parts replacement (you would need to go up too many pin sizes to get it firm again).

    When repinning to get a bit of friction, the behavior of the material is quite a bit different from what happens with pure wool bushings. Burnishing rapidly to build up heat does work, but it is touchy. A bit too much and you'll need to go up a full size instead of half. Not enough, and nothing happens, no change in friction. I'm not sure exactly how it works. It may be that the heat and friction of burnishing affects the teflon material, either abrading it or maybe melting it a bit. In any case, as I stated in my first post in this thread, it is a technique that does seem to work, at least adequately if not ideally, if you have decided that 1 gm of friction is too low. 

    The reason I bring this up is because most of what has been written in this thread - concerning heat, moisture, agitation, felting - applies to standard cloth bushings but not to these Steinway bushings. I don't know if any felting and densifying of felt takes place in a Steinway bushing when you do rapid burnishing, but I suspect it is pretty minimal if it does.

    ------------------------------
    Fred Sturm
    University of New Mexico
    fssturm@unm.edu
    http://fredsturm.net
    http://www.artoftuning.com
    "We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
    ------------------------------



  • 9.  RE: teflon impregnated action center bushing cloth

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-29-2017 23:12
    Del, how do you explain that Renner parts made in the 70s and 80s, all of which seemed to have graphite in center pin bushings, were not developing extra friction the way they have been more recently? 

    I admit I haven't carefully followed the pianos in which I graphited center pin bushings, but I haven't seen the problem. Could it be caused by something else?

    ------------------------------
    Mario Igrec, RPT
    http://www.pianosinsideout.com
    ------------------------------



  • 10.  RE: teflon impregnated action center bushing cloth

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-27-2017 15:13
    This issue is enough to tempt one to improve one's rebushing skills. I can rebush centers, and they appear all right, but they tend to end up too loose.

    I repinned a 2005 Steinway D for OSU in 2010, changing the hammer flanges from very loose to 4 grams. We've had very good acceptance of this piano as I set it up (using specs from Horace Greeley.) It's very heavily played, but not all that often. Now I have the action home over vacation, and I'm going to check to see what happened to the hammer friction after all these years. I'll also take a few samples of the other parts and check them too. The specs were wippen flanges, 2-4 grams, balanciers 4 to 6 grams, jacks (flies) 0 to 2 grams. The jacks were already okay, so I didn't need to do anything to them. My suspicion is that the hammer centers will have changed the most, and the balanciers the least. 

    The piano still has excellent smooth-playing soft response, with full dynamic range, which I think partly accounts for how it pleases artists.But it can't go on forever with the hammer friction always getting less, without any effects.

    Once I get past a few things I need to do, I want to make a study of different methods of rebushing flanges. The idea will be to take matching flanges, twenty of them, to make two matched sets of 10. (I have a set taken off an SD-10 which had surprisingly little wear considering how someone had butchered the hammers.) My idea is to bush them with the same strips of cloth, trading off, but then treating them differently once a sizing pin has been put in. One set will get the usual dowsing with vodka, but the other I plan to "iron" by using a Mehaffey zapper on them, for a pretty short time. Since they won't be assembled yet, the birdseyes will be in no danger. 

    Then, I'll assemble both sets to the same friction, noting any difference in the center pin sizes required, and I'll work them back and forth hard, fit scrap hammers on them tightly but without glue, and see what happens over the next week or so, putting them under some stress by working them back and forth with a little bit of side play. I want to see how hard or easy it is to get 4 grams of friction, and how well the friction endures. It won't be the same as doing a whole set on a piano which gets regular heavy use, but it is a start, at least.

    My theorizing about this is that the vodka sizes the hole, making it pleasantly round, but the effect of wetting wool is to make it fluffy. The heat, on the other hand, would get all the fibers to pack together firmly. I suspect that the heat would leave a more dense and much more stable and durable bushing. It might take some experimentation to determine the right size of the sizing center pin when using heat, since hardly anyone has done it this way. Since the alcohol treatment seems nearly universal, including in some factories, perhaps the lack of friction stability in repinned centers might be due to using it when the bushings were first put in.

    The zapper will be extremely easy to use, since the sizing center pins won't have been clipped. If the general concept seems to be true, I can work on how much time to zap by a variety of times on another set of new bushings, same old SD-10 shanks and flanges.. If that also goes well, I might even rebush the worn centers on my 1934 7' Baldwin, and then play it for awhile and see how they do. At some point, of course, I'll replace them on that piano, but in the meantime, I might as well get as much data from them as I can.

    ------------------------------
    Susan Kline
    Philomath, Oregon
    ------------------------------



  • 11.  RE: teflon impregnated action center bushing cloth

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-27-2017 15:39
    When you douse centers with a water based (whatever % you may choose), the individual fibers absorb water and swell. Since they are constrained between the flange and the pin, they are forced to adapt, which means they will tend to be more tightly interlocked (felted) when the water evaporates. 

    I'm not she sure about how heat affects the wool fibers. My guess is that it makes them less curly/springy. When the heat is too high, it probably permanently reduces that curl/spring. My guess is that zapping works for a reason similar to adding water: the fibers are constrained, so when their springiness is relaxed, they adapt differently to the available space, and end up being felted more tightly.

    With a burnisher, used vigorously enough to produce quite significant heat, the fibers are being somewhat agitated as they are heated, again resulting in tighter felting.

    For new bushings, I think the real challenge comes from the fact that the process of drawing the strips through the hole loosens the felt/weave A LOT. Getting it back to its original density takes a good bit of effort. I think most manufacturers do 2 - 3 dousings with incremental sizing pins before they pin the parts together.

    That is very hard to duplicate in the shop, unless you have a lot of time to build up experience, so your results will be predictable. We tend to be in more of a hurry, so we ream when the fibers are too loose, and as a result the friction goes down quite rapidly, and the joints are spongy/floppy.

    And in answer to Alan, yep, that's what I do. Usually it is a matter of observing, while doing other things, that hammers are bouncing a lot on their pillows, then investigating to see if I want to invest the time to re pin now, or put it off. I don't see much sluggishness here, other than occasional "freezes." (I see more in private homes, in pianos brought in from elsewhere).

    ------------------------------
    Fred Sturm
    University of New Mexico
    fssturm@unm.edu
    http://fredsturm.net
    http://www.artoftuning.com
    "We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
    ------------------------------



  • 12.  RE: teflon impregnated action center bushing cloth

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-27-2017 16:25
    Hi, Fred

    I'm drawing on my experience with woolen sweaters, which react in opposite ways to water and heat.

    If you wash a woolen sweater, it gets all fluffy. The arms get shorter and the thickness of the knitting gets greater. The water gets the fibers kinky, so there's more air between them. There's less density in the wool.

    On the other hand, if you iron a woolen sweater, the thickness of the knitting gets less, and the spring is out of the wool. The fibers soften from the heat, and lay closer to each other, instead of being kinky and fluffy.

    Both washing and ironing ruin the sweaters, which is why a real 100% wool sweater needs to be dry-cleaned.

    Once I've tried the experiment, I'll share the results.

    ------------------------------
    Susan Kline
    Philomath, Oregon
    ------------------------------



  • 13.  RE: teflon impregnated action center bushing cloth

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-27-2017 17:03
    Right, wool gets fluffier on the outside when you wet it. But when it is wetted between two hard surfaces, I think the mechanics change.

    Moisture expands the individual fibers, thereby changing their curl and opening up their scales.

    If you agitate a wool sweater while it is in water (as in put it in the washing machine, for instance) it will "shrink" - meaning that the agitation of the wet fibers causes them to "felt" (to become more tangled against one another, while their scales are open). When the material dries, the fibers stay in a more interlocked condition, but the outer ones will be somewhat "fluffy."

    When the material wetted while it is between firm surfaces (as between the center pin and the wood of the flange or shank), the fibers can't "get fluffy" and have to compress among themselves, also creating a more interlocked condition on drying.

    When you iron wool, the heated fibers on top are pressed down flat mechanically. I'm not sure how relatively permanent that is in terms of mechanical felting (interlocking of fibers), and I suspect not very permanent. I do this with bushing cloth (in the keys) all the time (heated caul in a confined space between mortise sides), and steaming them will swell them right back up, for at least several cycles. I imagine that as long as the heat is moderate, you could to that pretty much indefinitely. Too much heat will degrade the curl and springiness of the fibers, as we see in extra hot pressed hammers of the 80s. 

    I would note that steam provides heat as well as moisture, and you end up with a fluffier surface, as well as an expanded, thicker material. 

    When you heat the fibers in a confined space together with agitation (as in burnishing a cloth bushing), they will become more densely packed.

    It takes pressure and/or agitation to make the fibers more dense. Adding water to the picture helps the felting process.

    At least this is what I have gathered over the years, from various sources, starting with a wonderful National Geographic article on wool maybe 20 years ago (which I have since mislaid).
    Regards,
    Fred Sturm
    "The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge, but imagination." - Einstein












  • 14.  RE: teflon impregnated action center bushing cloth

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-27-2017 17:49
    Wool is a truly fantastic material.

    I don't know of any other fiber which, turned into clothing, still gives warmth while wet.

    I'll be interested in how our theorizing about the behavior of wood in bushings turns out once put to the test.

    I'll share my results.

    ------------------------------
    Susan Kline
    Philomath, Oregon
    ------------------------------



  • 15.  RE: teflon impregnated action center bushing cloth

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-27-2017 15:15
    P.S. When I used to repin without using a friction gauge, I'd go for 3 swings, because just working the flange a few times would get it to four or five. Playing for a few weeks, I thought, would probably take it to five or six.

    ------------------------------
    Susan Kline
    Philomath, Oregon
    ------------------------------



  • 16.  RE: teflon impregnated action center bushing cloth

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-28-2017 02:06
    Well, there are multiple issues here to explore in depth...

    1) I appreciate and use the 5-swing test for regular, non-teflon-bushed flanges. However, we need to reflect a moment on where that specification/rule-of-thumb came from.  Or rather where it did not come from ... which is some ultimate specification handed down from on high that it correlates with what friction should be.  Rather, as happens so often with pianos, it represents a "goldilocks zone" of where lateral joint rigidity and freedom of movement occur with the non-ideal materials of wool and wood fitted with a metal pin.  IOW, friction ideal would be less but then the joint would be too wobbly resulting in poor tone and greater hammer wear while joint rigidity would improve with a tighter pin/bushing fit but then the shank won't move when played. Hence, 5 swings. 
    Now, when different materials are used, that goldilocks zone changes. With lower friction, the joint can be more rigid and still lower friction. The WN&G components exemplify this: the side play of the joint is unprecedentally minimal but friction is much lower than historic parts. The S&S PTFE treated bushings are somewhat in between. But it boils down to the reality that an adequately rigid joint can be achieved with a lower level of friction. That means that the "swing test" needs to be higher -- maybe 10 swings or more, in fact, whatever works that still retains joint rigidity for solid tone. 

    2) I and some others servicing high-level pianos have found ironing the bushing using the final-installed pin to be the most precise way of sizing the bushing.  I just put in a pin that is tight (not to the point of immobilizing the joint, though) and before cutting it poke it into a torch flame. The heat irons the felt and leaves it smooth and dense.  The advantages are these: a) nothing more accurately represents the final size of the hole to fit the pin than the pin itself. b) there is no disturbance of the felt,  c) it works reliably and consistently.   As with anything, it is possible to do it wrong. If your mind wanders, you can get a carbonized shank fork, for example.  But it is quite easy to do it right. 

    3) There is a third factor that I didn't see in the discussion about heat and water on felt and that is mechanical agitation. I have a nice pair of mittens that a friend makes from sweaters she gets from thrift stores. She washes the sweaters in hot water and soap and they shrink and become dense -- making wonderful gloves. This is similar to the "boiled felt" gloves found in Europe.  So felt is made from wool that is agitated in water. The addition of soap and heat and length of agitation time are what makes the felt more dense -- and that on a continuous scale until it becomes like ceramic. (I have actually seen a "tile" of wool that serves its owner as a kithchen trivet).

    ------------------------------
    Keith Akins
    Akins Pianocraft
    Menominee MI
    715-775-0022
    ------------------------------



  • 17.  RE: teflon impregnated action center bushing cloth

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-28-2017 03:56
    Keith, thank you for your thorough investigation of wool and center pinning and what spec should be.

    I disagree with what you consider to be ideal lack of friction in a hammer center, which appears to be exactly what Steinway recommends: it can be as free as possible so long as there is no side play. While the source of this opinion of course makes disagreeing with it a daunting prospect, I cannot help but go along with my own observations instead of received wisdom.

    Consider the uses of friction in an action, especially hammer friction. When the friction gets so low that a hammer has 10 swings or more, it kicks and FLUTTERS coming out of check. Worse, if the spring tension is high enough for firm and rapid resetting of the jack (fly) under the knuckle (roller), it sometimes won't even get firmly into check. It can toy with the backcheck, but then the spring tension is greater than its friction against the check leather, and it pops back out of check, especially on a light blow.

    When the hammer gets out of check, if it is too free one can feel a real clunk in the key as the spring kicks in. Kicks.

    Or, if someone decides to favor secure checking rather than speed and dependability of the note resetting, the springs are left too weak and repetition suffers. Without hammers being able to check high enough, fast loud repetition is impossible. I was very struck by a slow motion film which I saw at a convention (I believe it was done by Kawai.) A hapless pianist was assigned the task of repeating a note ten times a second (well, my memory may be faulty, but it was something like that), and photographs in extra slow motion were made. It was amazing to see the flexing and side play in the hammer shank, but what amazed me more was to see that even at that lightning speed, the hammer went into check after every single note. If a note doesn't check dependably, and check fairly high, it will not repeat properly.

    And when there is not enough friction but the spring is strong enough for fast playing, hammers, especially in the tenor, won't go into check after a soft blow, but only when played more loudly. Instead, they flutter around. If the letoff and drop have been regulated really tightly, the hammer often will double strike when it is fluttering up and down like that. I HATE that, hearing a double strike when someone is attempting to play softly.

    So, what is the ideal situation for soft playing in a concert? I would describe it as smooth as silk, with the notes totally dependable even at the lowest possible dynamic level. I know that when I repinned a D action to Horace's "spec", I ended up with dependable checking at mezzo piano right down through the tenor section, with no doublestriking and extremely good control, so that notes wouldn't refuse to speak. And the artists have used that control at every opportunity. Build it, they will come. They never complained before, but after I did that repinning, they definitely used the extremely soft dynamic levels more often.

    When there is enough friction in the hammer (assuming other centers are reasonably close to spec), it will resist the spring enough that it doesn't jolt upwards, but smoothly rises. It will go into check. It will not double strike even with tight letoff and drop.

    Your mileage may vary. The West Coast climate is very forgiving, so if one puts a certain amount of friction into a center, it will not seize up in a damp time of year.

    As for daring to disagree with Steinway's recommendation, I didn't. This hammer friction spec IS from Steinway. The actual one was "3 to 5 grams". It just was pre-Teflon I Steinway. I think that the "as free as possible but no sideplay" idea may have been attempting to make a virtue of necessity, since teflon bushings made it impossible to keep a dependable moderate friction in the center. But then, who am I to say so?

    I can't help it. For me, direct observation will always carry more weight than pronouncements, whatever the source.


    ------------------------------
    Susan Kline
    Philomath, Oregon
    ------------------------------



  • 18.  RE: teflon impregnated action center bushing cloth

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-28-2017 10:23
    Hi Keith, 

    Thanks for your excellent post! Some great technical tips, plus lots of food for thought, from a highly knowledgeable tech who doesn't post often on this list. 

    Friction in pianos, in general, is a fascinating topic. As I am constantly reminding my assistants, we are not in pursuit of a frictionless system. Consider that airplanes take off into the wind, even if that initially points them away from their their eventual flight path. I imagine that they do that for reasons similar to why I have more control of my kayak going out INto the surf than when when I am coming in with the waves at my back (which are the only conditions in which I have ever ben tossed out of my boat, which is a sit-on-top). And as my brother, the commercial fisherman/poet, once wrote: "The current: we either move against it, or not at all…"

    In each of the aforementioned scenarios, resistance (within an established, useful range) facilitates control.

    I attended an excellent class at the last national convention offered by one of our most esteemed colleagues, JIm Busby. Back when Jim was at BYU, they did some experiments with a grand piano (a DC7?) on a turntable in an anechoic chamber. As I recall (my notes are not with me), they had set up an array of nine microphones to record the influence of various regulation steps and voicing procedures (i. e., hammer treatments) on tone. This experiment did not rank hammer pinning as high on the "to do" list as I do personally. 

    The experiment at BYU in fascinating and revealing. And yet, like all observations, it has it's limitations. The one I brought up with JIm is that having all of the action friction in the "goldilocks Zone" serves a couple of purposes that may well be lost on a Disklavier, but are highly relevant to an actual pianist. Consistent friction, at least, as consistent as is physically possible, and as consistent as changing conditions will allow, gives the pianist a more predictable interface with the sound of the instrument. This greatly facilitates their performance. Also--and I don't know that there is a way to scientifically measure this--having friction in "the Zone" elicits a different kind of interaction between the pianist and the action mechanism, and facilitates the pianist's access to the maximum range of tonal pallet available on a given instrument. (Of course, hammer condition, shape, mating voicing, etc. are all factors as well, but this thread is focused on the role of hammer pinning.)

    As a great piano tech once observed: "Friction: not too much; not too little. Without just the right amount of friction, none of us would be here!" Now, who can argue with that?

    Alan

    ------------------------------
    Alan Eder, RPT
    Herb Alpert School of Music
    California Institute of the Arts
    Valencia, CA
    661.904.6483
    ------------------------------