Susan, thank you for your thorough response. I saved your post as a good
guide for friction values.
Ivan, thank you for explaining how Europeans and the Japanese have
slightly different definitions for aftertouch.
I would like to add a bit to the mention of drop. I think about it
almost every day for some reason.
I use 2-3mm as a starting point, just to get me close quickly. Then I
refine the adjustment by considering drop as a result, not the target. I
do that by feel. Pushing down on the key through let off, I pay
attention to what I call the "width of the bump." Bump #1 occurs when
the repetition lever touches the drop screw. Bump #2 occurs when the
jack toe firmly touches the let off button felt and stops the jack from
moving upward. The distance between the two bumps is the width of the
bump. As you make drop smaller, the width of the bump decreases, and
pushing the key through let off becomes better defined. When the width
of the bump becomes zero, you have the cleanest and least spongy feel at
the bottom of the key stroke as you push through let off. The caveat:
Drop is often too shallow. Problems occur.
Then I evaluate what is happening with the hammer on very soft blows
where the hammer does not go into check.
- Does the hammer double strike?
- Is the repetition spring to tight?
- Does the jack reset soon enough as you slowly lift the key?
- Have I set drop so minimal that something doesn't work well?
I usually have to add more drop to make the key work consistently
without pushing limits too far. I add only as much drop as I need,
without being held to a hard spec.
When I'm doing very precise work, I set aftertouch using a homemade
gauge. Hammer rise after drop is more of a result versus a hard spec
also. If the width of the bump feels right, let off occurs, hammers
don't double strike on very soft blows, the jack resets, and aftertouch
is right, hammer rise is what it is. My only limits are no hammer rise
on one end, rising beyond let off on the other.
My thanks to Richard Davenport who started me thinking about drop 10
years ago.
For what it's worth,
John Parham
Original Message------
Hello, Ali, and welcome. I love talking with piano technicians from halfway around the world! What an age we live in, instant communications.
I don't think of aftertouch and drop being the same, which is probably a European idea. I set aftertouch by the feeling I get when playing the note. If there is too little, playing feels kind of tight and brittle. If there is too much, it feels sloppy, as if there were no control. What is needed depends partly on the condition of the rest of the action, and what kind of regulation has been put on it. If there is too little hammer friction, and the springs therefore seem too strong (because the hammer friction is not there to resist them), then one needs a somewhat deeper aftertouch, as well as more drop, to prevent double-striking. (So, to that extent, I suppose that aftertouch and drop do resemble each other.) Better to have the friction right (I prefer 4 grams of friction in the hammer centers) because that way one has more choices about how to set up the action, and it will still work.
I find that without sufficient hammer friction very smooth controlled playing at a soft dynamic level becomes nearly impossible. If the springs are strong enough for fast playing, one will be able to feel the kick in the key during soft playing if the action has too little friction. The specifications I prefer are: hammer flanges: 4 grams. Jack flanges, 0 to 2 grams (they must be very free), repetition lever, about 6 grams, and wippen flanges, between 2 and 4 grams. Assuming that the jacks are free enough, which they must be, the most important place for correct friction is the hammer flange. It's also the hardest to maintain, because with heavy use the flanges get more and more free. Also, what I consider correct hammer flange friction is not fashionable these days. The parts (shanks and flanges) I've ordered come with 2 grams (but wonderfully even). I've heard Steinway classes where the saying is, "hammers can be completely free, so long as there is no side play." With due respect to Steinway, and loving their concert instruments, I don't think it's possible to regulate for very smooth, silky playing at a soft dynamic level with completely free hammers.
The rule I was taught about drop is that it should be equal to letoff, that is, if letoff is 2 mm, then another 2 mm. will give a drop of 4 mm. This may need to vary depending on whether the hammers are too free -- if they don't have any friction, then the hammers will kick up and double strike too easily without wider letoff and drop.
For fast repetition, there are two things I look at carefully. First, the height of the repetition lever (which Steinway calls the balancier). It must be set so that the jack (fly) top is very, very close to the knuckle (roller), just a whisper of contact. This has to be adjusted very carefully if the spring tension has been changed. I check this by pulling on the jack tender (the part which contacts the letoff button). There should be the tiniest possible motion in the hammer. This is called "winking the jacks." If there is too much motion in the hammer (the jack is too high, at or above the level of the balancier) then there is no repetition. If it is too low, there is slow repetition.
The other crucial thing is to have the checking high, 1/2" (1.3 cm) from the string. If the hammer doesn't go into check, it cannot repeat. I saw a very good film at a convention. Some unlucky pianist had taught himself to play repeating notes at 10 times a second! And then there was a slow motion film of it. After every single note, the hammer went into check.
The springs don't have to be extremely strong for good repetition if the checking is very good, and high, and the repetition lever is set to the right height. Medium strength on the springs is enough. Sometimes people try to get better repetition by getting the springs extremely strong, when it's bad checking or the wrong repetition lever height which is the problem.
Sorry to run on and on, and I'm sure some people don't agree with everything I've written, but it has worked well for me.
I understand why hammer friction tends to be low on new pianos. They are sent all over the world. Some places have such high humidity that if the hammer flanges weren't free the actions would seize up. Other places have humidity which changes a tremendous amount during the year. What would be ideal here on the West Coast of the U.S. wouldn't work at all in New England or South Florida, for instance.
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Susan Kline
Philomath, Oregon
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