Yes, I just did this. I left the wafers in place. The glue was some thicker stuff. It was from the satellite co,, hot stuff. Easily 1/3 the white top fronts were off. I had to separate them into notes then match to the key. The only way to not see the line between the tail and front is to use the original wafers. The ivory is translucent and any glue that gets in the joint shows
Use just enough glue in the center.
The UFO is thicker than the thin but is still great for tuning pins.
I used the brass key top clamps like they have at Schaff
I ran the thin stuff around the edges. If it was already loose, it bulges up the tail and you can see a gap. then you squirt in some the medium thick stuff and quick clamp.
sounds brutal but don't worry about it.
Take a rubber sanding block with 220 and break the glaze and block the sides to remove glue and clean dirt
Change to 320 grit and and flatten the the top so the front top matches the tail. If the ivories are worn down the center, avoid flattening the whole top to that thickness.
You can get the grits at an automotive store.
Start with 400. all you are doing is taking out the scratch marks from the previous paper. Every 200
600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1400, 1600.
Hand rub from 800 up.
The heat from sanding and buffing will cause any tails to arch. Glue and clamp and re sand.
Final is to use a white rouge bar and a buffing wheel on the bench grinder. I charged them 900 and it looked beautiful. That was gluing back on all the sharps too. That was interesting to sort those out. From the ones that were still on,, it was the wear pattern from playing that did the final guess when I had a choice.
The piano is in an antique house and the tops are still on solid after climate changes.
It was a real pretty job