I got these treble Strike point ratios from Ed Mcmorrow. They have been working well for me without glueing and moving treble hammers, which I find fraught with misleading results.
88- SL/.064, 83- SL/.075, 78- SL/.085, 73- SL/.089, 68- SL/.094, 63-SL/.099
Measure the as-built Speaking Length(SL) using a thin 150mm Stainless steel pocket rule. I grind the rule down at the end, close to a knife edge, to slip as close to the termination point as possible.
Cut paper the strike point distance you calculated. Snug it up against the capo, sitting on top of the unison. Mark the hammer top dead center. Raise the hammer to strike, confirm the actual strike center on the hammer as it hits the strings. Adjust mark if the hammer is not striking at top dead center. Move hammer until the empirical strike point is lined up with the piece of dimensioned paper.
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Jim Ialeggio
grandpianosolutions.com
Shirley, MA
978 425-9026
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Original Message:
Sent: 05-19-2018 11:53
From: Mario Bianchi
Subject: Wrong strike point? HELP....
Hello,
I'm changing the hammers to a Schimmel grand piano t208. I believe that the sound too annoying (and with little precise harmonics) on some keys of the most acute part of the piano (precisely, from the 77 to 83) is caused by a wrong strike point.
In fact, as soon as I glued and voiced the new hammers (Renner by Schimmel), I followed the old strike point (the piano as already been regenerated by someone), I realized that the problem remained ....
How could I calculate the correct strike point?
I would be tempted to follow my instincts, listen to how they sound and glue them a couple of millimeters closer to the whippen (because, if I move all the mechanics, from the right, a little further, the keys from 84 to 88 become aphonic) .
I apologize in advance if I have made mistakes in writing or translation, I am Italian.
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Mario Bianchi
Roma
3925297198
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