What's the difference between bedding the keyframe every time vs. changing the studs seasonally?Benjamin -
In one way, there's no difference. Both, as framed, are equally misconceived. I would hope you wouldn't do either unless there was a significant problem. I'm not sure what you mean by 'everytime'. Would this be another step in your full-service approach? If there is no problem, you're more likely to be making one, no matter what tools or skill level you possess.
There's enough variation in the acceptable bedding process that could end up unnecessarily altering regulation. As Peter said, there are "design/performance parameters" within which this particular sub-function will work as intended, and yet the regulation as a whole, being built upon that basic step, can easily be degraded. The theoretical 'minus', or 'too-little' value for keyframe bedding is the absence of any contact... leaving any amount of float. The amount of 'positive' bedding is a function of building in resilience for climate changes (so that it will never go below 0) or, in the case of a collapsed keyframe, creating enough gap to prevent the wood slats from contacting the keybed in vigorous playing, or possibly building in some amount of 'stress', to make frame more rigid. This last one depends upon precise capture of the back rail by the dags; otherwise it would tend to lift the back rail and create noise similar to a floating balance rail. Other manifestations of excessive glide pressure would be unresponsive una-corda shift action.
Keep in mind that the situation Thomas wrote about was an extreme example of what we all deal with to some extent. There's nothing wrong with checking frame bedding when at the piano, If you have balance rail knocking, you can (and, I think, should) take the time to determine its source before wholesale screw turning. The objective would be to disturb as little of the functioning (?) regulation as possible. Dealing with the symptoms of excessive glide pressure is much more difficult, as turning glides up will certainly reduce key dip and aftertouch.
It's not a routine adjustment.
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David Skolnik [RPT]
Hastings-on-Hudson NY
914-231-7565
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Original Message:
Sent: 07-19-2018 20:05
From: Benjamin Sanchez
Subject: Steinway D key dip
Peter,
Like you I prefer to bed the keyframe (balance rail studs) from scratch using the WNG tool. Takes about 5 minutes or so.
With that said.... What's the difference between bedding the keyframe every time vs. changing the studs seasonally? Is there a difference, or is it just the same name for two separate things?
Thanks,
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Benjamin Sanchez
Professional Piano Services
(805)315-8050
www.professional-piano-services.com
BenPianoPro@comcast.net
Original Message:
Sent: 07-19-2018 09:38
From: Peter Grey
Subject: Steinway D key dip
I am inclined to think (now) that the problem is a combination of both of these factors (keybed flex AND long flexible keys).
I had not thought about the key issue before this, however as the humidity increases, wood becomes increasingly weaker and more flexible (if you want to permanently bend wood you don't dry it out...you make it hot and MOIST with steam...then you can pretty much turn it into a pretzel). So, with a VERY humid environment (and theorizing that the keys are a bit more on the flexible side than some others of its breed right from the get-go) they could in fact be flexing quite a bit which would cause all kinds of problems especially under vigorous playing.
Now, COUPLED with an unstable keybed...need I say more?
What would I do if faced with this situation?
1) Determine if key flex is an issue by coating both sides of ONE (maybe two) key(s) with thin epoxy...let it cure completely and compare the feel (seesaw on the BR with pressure) and then the real-time action of it with its untreated neighbors. If significant, I would discuss the matter with the client and hopefully they would agree to make this improvement globally. (BTW this treatment can take a somewhat mediocre instrument and turn it into a powerhouse in some cases).
2) I would resolve to bed the keyframe FROM SCRATCH every time I see it (or at the very least check each stud and adjust accordingly). The process really takes no more than 5 minutes if you get into the habit. If this is necessary it simply is a reflection of the idiosyncrasies of this instrument (pianos are like people...alot).
3) Definitely pursue some humidity control. Owners need to know that they are accelerating the demise of their piano if they fail to address this issue responsibly.
Pwg
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Peter Grey
Stratham NH
603-686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com
Original Message:
Sent: 07-18-2018 18:43
From: Chris Chernobieff
Subject: Steinway D key dip
Those long flexible keys are quite the problem in a D. Make them less flexible, and or get the humidity under control.
Good luck.
-chris
Original Message------
I am servicing a Steinway D in an extremely humid large church sanctuary. Each July the keydip becomes so shallow it almost will not "let off". Awfully out of regulation.
If I correctly regulate it do you think it will better deal with these humidity changes to the point it would would play better.
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Thomas Black
Decatur AL
256-350-9315
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