Jim, I just went and watched their video (while blowing some money on
their very slick capstans and keypins).
It all looks very well-thought-out and organized.
Since you're using their arcing jig, could you do me a favor? Find out the
radius of that swing to make the arc using the belt sander. It looks fairly
short. That is, from the pivot point to the part of the hammer tail
touching the sanding belt.
I've been using a jig made from Bill Spurlock's article, with a 2.5" radius,
and I noticed as soon as I did the first set, many years ago, that the checking
was almost identical at ANY blow, soft, medium, loud, very loud.
I'm wondering how close to 2.5" WN&G's radius is, and whether that might
account for checking at a nearly uniform height even at different dynamic levels.
I recently took an old hammer which I had saved (with my usual impractical
thrift) from my family's verdigris-infested 1934 Steinway A. Tracing the
hammer tail and using a compass, it appeared to have a 2" radius in
the area actually contacting the backcheck.
<thanks in advance>
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Susan Kline, RPT
Oregon State University, Newport Arts Center
Philomath, Oregon
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Original Message:
Sent: 03-04-2013 19:19
From: James Busby
Subject: WNG backchecks and through the string voicing
Ed, Fred,
I used the WNG jig and I too have the best checking ever. This system is the first I have ever seen that rarely needs any adjustment once set, and the real beauty of it is that it always checks, even with the softest blows! I may try lowering one slightly to see if that helps, although Bruce says I have it set the way he intended it to work. He said that if I adjust it any other way I would probably lose the benefits described above.
I use the method Fred uses, but still can't get it in a place where I can remove the needle. Every time you do a deeper stitch you must pull the hammer up to the string to pull the needle out. It's not at all like conventional through the string work. You can still do light work, but the "Angel Shots" are problematic. Maybe I need a third hand (tool) to hold it down.
Jim
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James Busby
Mt Pleasant UT
801-422-3400
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Original Message:
Sent: 03-04-2013 16:15
From: Edward Foote
Subject: WNG backchecks and through the string voicing
Greetings,
I found that the height is critical with these WNG back checks. If too high, they have to be too far distal to miss the hammer's last bit of swing. In this condition, the tail curvature isn't enough to increase pressure against the back check when pushed down, and it goes past the middle of the check and goes all the way down. If the back check is lowered, it provides a more postive stop to the hammer.
Make sure that the top of the back check is at least even, and for me, ideally, a mm below the bottom of the tail when the hammer is on the string and the key is fully depressed. I have found that lowering the back checks 1-2 mm might lower the maximum height of check by that amount, but it greatly increases the resistance to allowing the hammer to be pushed downward. Since these backchecks seemingly can check the hammer almost at the string, if so desired, there is little cost to lowering the backcheck to improve its angle of approach to the hammer's arc. This really tightens up the checking.
It also does a better job of keeping check distance the same, regardless of blow strength. It may contribute to a harder feel in these actions, though it may be my imagination. I think stopping the hammer with a longer sliding action would decrease the forces going back to the finger upon playing a note, but I can't measure that, at the moment. I am leave the hammer width the same width as the backcheck, since I am looking for maximum durability and the added surface area just has to correlate to more of it. I don't roughen the tails, but do use the WNG tailing jig and I am getting the best checking I have ever had.
Regards,
Ed Foote RPT
http://www.piano-tuners.org/edfoote/well_tempered_piano.html