Usually an upright has a cantilever so the bass wires can be longer and the bridge still sits on the ribs and not the rim.
If the cap is split, I would assume the cantilever glue joints are not in great shape.
It would best to rebuild the whole assembly,,, possibly restructuring it. Mostly they fall apart when you take the wire off.
Use glues of high hardness factor.for sound transmission. Epoxy (west systems), Hide glue and tightbond trim and moulding glue are high hardness. Bolduc pin block glue and the titebond stuff Dale Erwin uses are non plastic so when you drill through the glue joints it doesn't gum up the drill bits. Both Bolduc and Erwin will ship some to you.
If reusing the original bridge parts, It's easier, if they used hide glue, To reglue with a cold hide glue. It has a high hardness and bond with the old glue.
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Keith Roberts
owner
Hathaway Pines CA
209-770-4312
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Original Message:
Sent: 09-06-2021 18:58
From: Edward Mastin
Subject: Bass bridge replacement
Greetings all. I'm replacing a bass bridge on a 1939 Acrosonic console. The cap has split. Here is my question. Should just replace the cap or make an entire one piece bridge? What is the benefits and troubles with each design. My partner read a piece on the Walters 17 layer bridge. In my ignorance, that sounds like it would impede sound travel not enhance it. I await your learned responses!
Ed the tuner
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Edward Mastin
RPT
Syracuse NY
315-422-1291
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