Good post, Jon. I employ a similar technique but bend the pin with jeweler's pliers in an appropriate direction to center the rep lever, inserting it to the exact spot I want before clipping (if it's heading in the wrong direction, I adjust with gripping pliers, learn, and proceed). With the rep levers centered over the whippen, I can then do the same for jacks that are off center. Fast, less stress to parts, and accurate, making for less spacing and traveling and a more vertical delivery and return of energy between key and hammer shank. Worth checking all results of global pinning, though, since over 8 grams measured at the long end of the rep lever will be problematic - don't ask me how I know... This technique applies to cloth bushed parts. WNG hard bushings are another story - realigning rep levers must be done with heat as the pins won't bend. Mostly, WNG hard bushings don't need repinning (there was an era of rep levers being over 8g and they needed attention). Hard bushings that are too loose can be firmed up by carefully, judiciously pressing the sharp end of a reaming broach into the bushing near the pin. This produces a permanent effect and if too enthusiastically performed may require the tight bushing solution, which involves pin removal, slight reaming, and reinsertion, as time-consuming a pursuit as the other is fast. BTW, the broach trick for tightening works well with cloth bushings (that are well glued in). Hard to improve rep lever friction enough for lack of support in the surrounding wood (the problem that has them always losing a gram of friction after pinning), but with hammer flanges, swings can at least be cut in half. Working the flange (and pin) hard against the side just tightened produces lasting stability.
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Christopher Brown
chris@grandwork.tools978-505-7728
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Original Message:
Sent: 05-27-2020 10:17
From: Jon Page
Subject: Repinning Repetition Levers
This is a continuation from the WNG thread.
Therese parts are Able. My production method is to remove the reps and place on a tray. Then I go along and start the pin out of the rep levers.
I have my tool set up so as not to press the pin completely out. I ascertained that going up two sizes would give me slightly higher friction, knowing that it will reduce in short time.
I noticed that most pins were bent slightly. Using the old partially-removed pin as the chase pin, I installed the new pin. I noticed that the jack was off center. Ordinarily, I'd place the jack yoke on a square edge and bend the pin to center. (Roger Jolly pointed out that it induces friction to the center and is not advisable. His recommendation was to heat a tool and twist/warp the rep support post). I deduced that Able placed the rep support post on a square edge and tapped the end of the rep lever. It works! Place the side that is closest to the side to bend the pin so it re-centers. So what if it induces a slightly higher friction in the lever, better there than in the jack center. Now to get them back on the rail and spaced to the knuckles. While I was at it, I placed a scant amount of lube on the end of the spring that enters the jack.
The hammer flanges fall on their own weight. I'll remove them one-by-one (not as in the above production method) and repin since they are already traveled and spaced.
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Regards,
Jon Page
mailto:jonpage@comcast.net
http://www.pianocapecod.com
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