Hello David,
This is the first Chickering player grand I've encountered. Having worked on many old player uprights, and without finding a serial number to date it; I "assumed" that it must have started out life as a "pump" player. I've only worked on one other player grand (a Steinway if I remember correctly), and the player had been removed prior to my involvement.
My concern is whether or not any of the player mechanism could interfere with pulling the action; or if pulling the action could damage any of the player functions. I have no idea regarding the layout of the player mechanism in this piano; and I want to be sure that I do no harm if/or when the action requires removal.
Thanks.
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Timothy Edwards
Beckley WV
740-517-7636
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Original Message:
Sent: 11-07-2021 01:25
From: David Dewey
Subject: Chickering player grand
I have a Chickering BROTHERS player grand, not the same people as Chickering & Sons, but the same family! The Serial number on my piano is stamped into the bass end of the soundboard. If the soundboard is covered in dust, you might not see it (it took me some time to find it, and only after I saw a photo of a similar piano numbered there too-a little dusting, and voila!) The check blocks on mine are similarly fastened. Most Player Grands use an electrically powered vacuum pump, so I don't understand your statement that it was "converted." The reproducing player mechanism requires a steady source of vacuum for the modifying coding to work properly.
David Dewey
Original Message:
Sent: 11/6/2021 8:57:00 AM
From: Daniel Brown
Subject: RE: Chickering player grand
The serial number on Chickerings from that era are stenciled on the side of a plate strut as shown in photo. This is a 1926 Chickering with Ampico. The bottom number (52) is the model number. If it is missing, possibly the plate was refinished.
Original Message:
Sent: 11/5/2021 6:31:00 PM
From: Timothy Edwards
Subject: Chickering player grand
Encountered an old Chickering player grand this week. Could not locate the serial number. The player "stack" and controls were in a drawer under the keyboard. Looked to have been rebuilt at some juncture. Cheek block screws were accessed via a little decorative rubber "button" on top of the block. I'm "guessing" the keyslip was attached in similar fashion, but the rubber buttons which I suspect were hiding the screws had rotted and were "decapitated". The player mechanism has been converted to electric motor at some point as well. Fortunately, I did not need to pull the action in order to retrieve the pencils that were causing action problems; but for future reference:
1) Can I drill these rubber buttons out to access the keyslip screws, or is there a better approach?
2) What issues may be lurking when attempting to pull the action?
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Timothy Edwards
Beckley WV
740-517-7636
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