White and ivory are the most difficult colors to match. Even if you have the polyester from the factory, you will still see the repair even after it is correctly done and polished to match. I have successfully done a repair on a white Yamaha crushed corner (bottom of keybed on lower left corner). I went to a local automotive paint company and had them match the color using one of the cheek blocks. Most of these paint stores won't do color matching, but work off of a color code. I found a place that would do it, and they did a perfect match. The paint is loaded into aerosol cans which can only be used once because when you activate the can, the hardener is dispersed inside the can. Any leftover paint will become hard in a very short time. I was fortunate that the client wasn't picky, but was very happy to see the correct color. The sheen didn't match, but it was on part of the piano that was hard to see. If it was the fallboard, I would have had to refinish the whole thing, and perhaps even give it a topcoat.
The location of the damage in this case, and the fact that there is color matching required, as well as graining, means it will be up to the touchup person's skill to complete the repair somewhere in the upper 90% range. I think it is do-able to that extent, but the client should understand the practical limit of this type of repair.
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Paul McCloud, RPT
Accutone Piano Service
www.AccutonePianoService.compavadasa@gmail.com------------------------------
Original Message:
Sent: 11-15-2021 20:58
From: James Kelly
Subject: Repair Question
I agree- edge repairs are some of the most difficult repairs. I had a client who was an MD with a high gloss white polyester Yamaha with a chip on the half lid about the same size. I was sent to inspect the damage and give an estimate to do the repair. There are shades and tints of white and I felt it was beyond my talents. I recommended am expert in color matching but insurance went with a lower bid. That guy did the repair but in the process ruined the lid. The entire lid had to be shipped up to Cavaleri in NY to be stripped and redone.
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James Kelly
Owner- Fur Elise Piano Service
Pawleys Island SC
843-325-4357
Original Message:
Sent: 11-15-2021 16:42
From: Peter Grey
Subject: Repair Question
I thought it was a lid. Didnt realize it was a cheek.
I showed it to someone who KNOWS polyester. He said it would be very difficult to make invisible. Gotta have lots of talent for this one.
Peter Grey Piano Doctor
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Peter Grey
Stratham NH
603-686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com
Original Message:
Sent: 11-15-2021 14:00
From: David Bauguess
Subject: Repair Question
Thank you all. I've passed on your comments to the owner. (It's not a job I would do.)
As you can see in this picture, this will have to be a repair only to the damaged spot. If it were on the lid for example the approach might be different.
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David Bauguess
Grand Junction CO
970-257-1750
Original Message:
Sent: 11-14-2021 20:35
From: Jon Page
Subject: Repair Question
GluBoost. Level with a fine file (broken off 2-3" end) piece.
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Regards,
Jon Page
mailto:jonpage@comcast.net
http://www.pianocapecod.com
Original Message:
Sent: 11-14-2021 13:32
From: David Bauguess
Subject: Repair Question
I have a customer with a 1991 Young Chang made Wurlitzer C153 5' with a very glossy finish, which I assume is polyester. The case is like new. A chunk, down to bare wood, was knocked out weeks ago but only recently discovered, so there is nothing to be found of the piece that came out.
In this picture it appears larger than it is in fact. I would say it is about the size of a raisin.
I welcome any suggestions for how to repair it that would be durable and minimize the appearance that a repair has been made. Insurance will pay for it. It is not something I would do, but for the customer, guidance for how it might be done and what kind of worker might best do it will be much appreciated.
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David Bauguess
Grand Junction CO
970-257-1750
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