fantastic Karl,
I made the same mistake before you written this, I had not removed raised pieces...
I try to make it in layers, but is a endless work, here in Italy we have only delignit planks, from 1 1/2 to 2 inch thick, I resawed it in thinner layers, but I don't like it and my planer hates it.
Unfortunaly we don't have access to bolduc type of pinblock, I prefer this when need of machining.
So I can retry to make this from one piece of 2 inch delignit, without raised pieces, with router and copying router. I have a 1/4 hornbeam plank,can I use it for making raised piece?
The second problem is that plate and pinkblock, when I released screw tension, has a gap of 5mm between them.
I welded 2 spots in the end upper part of plate, there was a defect in the cast, piano was tuning stable, but at 434hz... So I made it properly welded (with nickel rod) and pry...
I suspect that excessive load from force screwed in pinblock is not healthy in any case
So, if I copy an imperfect old pinlock I replicate the problem (bow).
I think I need to correct this bow, after all that work.
thnak you all
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Davide Marchi
Pianist
Bologna
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Original Message:
Sent: 11-10-2020 20:26
From: Karl Roeder
Subject: Old bluthner pinblock
Sig. Marchi,
The most important thing I learned when making one of these is that the raised pieces were glued on after the bottom two layers were fit to the plate. You should steam them off before you start to duplicate the block. I used a duplicating router made by a company called Radarcarve in Arizona. When I made mine I had the duplicator set up as a gunstock duplicator. If I do another I'll set it up as a flat table duplicator and think I'll get better precision. I routed out the large recess freehand outside my shop as the amount of sawdust created was impressive. One of the few smart things I did on that job was to make the first copy(s) out of cheap wood and not expensive pinblock material. This was fortunate because I didn't realize the raised pieces should be removed first. Wasting two hours of my time and $8 worth of pine was a lot less painful than destroying a Bolduc block while playing on the learning curve. The raised pieces can be fit to the holes in the plate after the main body has been fit.You can make them around 6mm thick and still have room to put the brass insets on and have them below the level of the plate holes. After bolting the bottom layers to the plate put the raised pieces in place and fix their position with pin pegs. Remove the assembly from the plate and glue on the raised pieces with the pin pegs referencing them to the right location. Bolt the whole assembly to the plate for a final fit and then mark and drill for the brass insets. Once the insets are screwed down you can mark the tuning pin hole locations. As the top of the block is angled forward you'll want to drill the block at 90 degrees to the table. I'll try and upload a few pictures of my misadventures in hopes they might spare you some of my mistakes.
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Karl Roeder
Pompano Beach FL
Original Message:
Sent: 11-10-2020 12:23
From: Davide Marchi
Subject: Old bluthner pinblock
thank you all
the original pinblock is made in 3 layers, but bottom layer is flat, 3/4 inch, the middle layer is inclined and top layer is inclined in the opposite direction, it was the most not flat frame I ever seen... it is 3D pinblock.
I know vertical load is not as important as strings direction load, but it is complex shape anyway to replicate.
1913 jubilee 7ft bluthner, with aliquot.
I have 2 inch delignit plank, I would like to route it from the entire, but I started to think I must approach in another ways, so I ask to bluthner expert.
In a upright I would inlay the part of pins, yes.
here bluthner has brass cover that I can use as drilling guide for pins.
easy? no, I don't think so...
thanks
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David Marchi
Italy
Original Message:
Sent: 11-10-2020 08:19
From: Jon Page
Subject: Old bluthner pinblock
Make a pattern of the tuning pin holes. This can later be refined for string clearances. Inlay blocks of new pin block material. I have done this without removing the block from the case. An alternative would be to install pin block plugs and veneer the surface.
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Regards,
Jon Page
mailto:jonpage@comcast.net
http://www.pianocapecod.com
Original Message:
Sent: 11-10-2020 07:53
From: Peter Grey
Subject: Old bluthner pinblock
Davide,
I have not done it, and I own even older Bluthner that needs it, and though I cannot prove it, I would guess that it is made in 3 sections...1) the lower plank, 2) the middle section fit to the flange, and 3) the top protrusion through the plate, then glued together after fitting the middle section to the plate.
Edit: On re-examining tbe photo...Possibly two sections, bottom...then the part that comes up through the plate.
At least this may be one way to duplicate it. Others may have other ideas on it.
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Peter Grey
Stratham NH
603-686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com
Original Message:
Sent: 11-10-2020 06:07
From: Davide Marchi
Subject: Old bluthner pinblock
good morning everyone
old bluthners (1900/1920) had a particular shaped 3 layers pinblock. How can I replicate this with modern materials (delignit or bolduc, but bolduc in europe is rare) ?
It is a complex shape. Thanks for suggestions. Anyone made something like this before ?
thanks
David
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Davide Marchi
Pianist
Bologna
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