While bending the wires is not a bad idea, I would have two concerns if it was me. Reversing the two bends when the new dampers are eventually installed, and not breaking something in the process. This action is most likely over 120 years old after all. If you have the type of bending pliers that approach the wire from the same direction you're bending (rather than from 90 degrees), usually used for backchecks, you can avoid stressing the wooden parts. Perhaps the damper heads are held in with set screws and you can just move them forward, that would be a blessing.
Another option, since this is temporary till replacement next fall, might be to add a strip of bushing felt to the dampers. I cringe at the idea as it's improper, but it is temporary, maybe even name-board felt that's self adhesive.
While I'm more in Ted Rohde's "head for the hills" camp, in general I'd stick with my original advice and press the customer to do it right the first time by replacing the dampers now rather than subject the piano to stop gap measures that could lead to complications.
Btw, the dampers are usually pressed against the strings by weight rather than a spring, it would be worth checking the damper flanges for resistance, a little lube could help a bit.
Regarding the lighter fluid method. They used to hold piano smashing contests in the UK, the fastest time to break a piano down to fit through a 9" hole is 1 minute, 34.41 secs according to the Guiness Book. The guy at Fletcher & Newman wasn't joking. Well, he was joking but...
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Steven Rosenthal
Honolulu HI
808-521-7129
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Original Message:
Sent: 03-05-2019 11:55
From: Jim Fariss
Subject: J Gunther birdcage piano
I know this is all about dampers but I cannot help adding my input on the Birdcage vs Overdamper. Living in England, when I came across my first Birdcage piano, I told the person I could not do this. I said that to the second person who had a Birdcage. When I got my third Birdcage, I said to myself, if I'm going to live in this country, I better learn how to tune these things and did. While stopping at the piano supply place in London, Fletcher & Newman, I chatted with the fellow behind the counter and mentioned about working on a Birdcage. He quickly said that was an American thing and that they are called Overdamped if you please. He then followed up with if I knew the best tool for that type of piano? Thinking he was going to say Papps Wedge (they call it wedge instead of mute) I said what? He pulls out some lighter fluid and a lighter. Who says the Brits don't have a sense of humor, eh what?
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Jim Fariss, RPT
Black Forest Piano
Black Forest, Colorado
(719) 425-8845
Original Message:
Sent: 03-05-2019 11:26
From: Don Dalton
Subject: J Gunther birdcage piano
Thanks for the pointers, Fred. I'll take the action out first to get a good look at the mechanism and then figure out from there how best to proceed. Maybe something simple will become obvious, like backing off screws or a careful tug on the wire where it leaves the rail. Or, simply supporting the connection and then pushing on the wire at the bend to move it forward that extra 1/16".
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Don Dalton
Chester VT
Original Message:
Sent: 03-05-2019 10:35
From: Fred Sturm
Subject: J Gunther birdcage piano
It's touchy bending those wires. There should (at least typically) be only one right angle bend in the wire. It goes down from the lever, then forward to the damper head. That is calculated to place the correct thickness of felt square on the strings. So if you bend it forward at the lever, you will need to widen the right angle. Touchy to do, as you don't have anywhere near good access unless the action is out.
It is possible the damper heads are screwed on the wire, so you might be able to back them off a turn (which might make them loose, in which case a little thin CA might be good)
Regards,
Fred Sturm
"Art is not a mirror held up to reality, but a hammer with which to shape it." Brecht
Original Message------
So I think it makes the most sense to check the pedal and the individual damper wires and make sure the dampers aren't rising too early, and see if easy adjustments can be made. Then if dampers still need work I'm going to go with the bending damper wire option, as that is the least invasive and most reversible-- although potentially a delicate operation. I'll bend damper wires on a couple of tests first-- maybe a few "C's" in the middle and ends-- and check. That'll give me a line to sight other dampers as well. (And yes, I'll have to make two wire bends to align damper felts to strings properly.)
Thanks to all.
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Don Dalton
Chester VT
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