In the "lack of insidious effects" department, 5 or 6 years ago, I had a serious fire with 120K of smoke damage in my shop. Seeing the blackened interior of the shop was a truly frightening sight. In the space that was seriously smoke damaged, close to the actual fire, along with rapidly corroding machines that had to be neutralized from the corrosive effects of the smoke, was a new WNG action I had designed for a Chickering 106. Original Vintage Chickering single offset keys, balance rail moved from Brown action position to modern position, WNG stack, except with a custom designed aluminum and wood whip rail, for the Chickering whip flange orientation. Theran keytops. Hammers had not been installed yet.
The piano case was toast. The new, but now orphaned keyboard/action, went up in the loft, where I ignored it for 4 years or so, without any special attention to how the new keyframe I had built was supported.
3 years later, an aging customer gave me another Chickering 106, that needed a fair amount of work including an action. Took the orphaned keyboard/stack down from the loft, and went over it, to see if it was salvageable. Action centers were fine, believe it or not, all felts fine, just needed blowing off in the blasting cabinet. Cleaned up the Theran. Checked all key bushings...minor easing here and there. Rechecked all the shank friction. The friction was adjusted, but mainly because I now pin tighter than I used to 6 years ago. As they were, they in the the acceptable range, 2g, just lower than the 4-6g which is my current target.
Believe it or not, the action slid into the new 106 with very minor messing for the unachorda keyframe slot.
It is now my piano, getting daily workouts. In this case, the action survived the nasty's of the fire. Any hotter, and it would have been toast, but it survived the corrosive atmosphere of the smoke, and, in that portion of the shop, and in shelf it was sitting, did not receive overly destructive effects of the heat.
Which goes to say. each circumstance of calamity will be different. Adequate time will reveal how bad the damage was. It is interesting though how well the WNG bushing survived the corrosive effects of the smoke, being stainless.
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Jim Ialeggio
grandpianosolutions.com
Shirley, MA
978 425-9026
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Original Message:
Sent: 01-02-2021 11:44
From: Peter Grey
Subject: Aftermath of water damage
And of course the point of insurance is to put things back to the condition they WERE prior to the claim...not just "okay". If this is impossible (as experience shows) replacement would be the solution.
Pwg
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Peter Grey
Stratham NH
603-686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com
Original Message:
Sent: 01-02-2021 11:27
From: James Kelly
Subject: Aftermath of water damage
Attached is guidance on dealing with flood damaged/exposed pianos . A public adjuster may help in getting the best claim resolution since insurance adjusters work for the insurance company and it can take lots of time and effort to resolve the claim. While the piano may still have some life in it the client will probably never be satisfied.
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James Kelly
Owner- Fur Elise Piano Service
Pawleys Island SC
843-325-4357
Original Message:
Sent: 12-31-2020 09:49
From: Alan Eder
Subject: Aftermath of water damage
Greetings Lists,
A burst pipe in the ceiling above a thirty year old Steinway L resulted in water entering the action cavity. An initial survey indicates that the soundboard, strings, bridges, rim, damper system and pedal lyre all appear to have dodged the bullet. However, the action cavity took on water, soaking parts of the keybed, keyframe and some of nearly every kind of main action component. The key slip is now bowed by 5 mm. Some of the string rest felt in the lower capo is wet.
The first thing I did yesterday was to move the piano out of harm's way and take the action apart so things could be spread out to dry. Planning to return today with fans (to improve air circulation), bakers' cooling racks (to better expose all sides of the keys to air), a heat gun to hasten the drying of the string rest felt, and an array of Dampp-Chaser drying rods to suspend under the piano. Upon the advice of Richard Davenport, RPT, I will put blocks under either end of the key slip and a weight in the center, in an attempt to counter-act the bowing.
My questions are:
1) What else should I be doing at this stage to help dry things out?
2) Is there any hope that the keys, keyframe and key bed can be made functional and reliable once dried out?
3) Is anything short of complete action replacement going to be reliable?
Thanks,
Alan
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Alan Eder, RPT
Herb Alpert School of Music
California Institute of the Arts
Valencia, CA
661.904.6483
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