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Pulley keys

  • 1.  Pulley keys

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 07-20-2021 15:31
    What's everyone's favorite pulley key repair technique currently?

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    David Love RPT
    www.davidlovepianos.com
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net
    415 407 8320
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  • 2.  RE: Pulley keys

    Posted 07-20-2021 16:02
      |   view attached
    If I'm not swelling loose BR holes when steaming out worn key bushings, i use my ball pin hammer to push against bottom of BR hole - which will crush/compress wood and make a tighter fit.





  • 3.  RE: Pulley keys

    Member
    Posted 07-20-2021 17:30
    Hi,

    We use a front and rear offset register tool. It leaves small indents on the underside of the keystick front and back of the balance hole while establishing the corrected hole placement. Then router remove 3/4  inch centered on old hole. Glue in wood inset, use register tool on underside and as a guide for drilling the new hole.  Just did an entire keyset for a local tech.

    Deb





  • 4.  RE: Pulley keys

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 07-20-2021 17:46
    And who will be playing the technician in the soon-to-be-released video? :) 
    what kind of wood do you use for inserts? do you match the thickness of the insert with the depth of cut or is it oversized and planed down?
    Do you EVER size holes?

    I like Debra's method, but, since I'll probably not immediately adopt it (soon), I'll continue aggressively glue-sizing holes - 
    - pre-clean holes with alcohol so gluesize gets absorbed more redily
    - steam
    - apply sizing - should have thin enough viscosity to be absorbed but enough glue to solidify
    - when dry you can force onto pin and allow to shape; arrowhead tool; Pianotek KCS tool

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    David Skolnik [RPT]
    Hastings-on-Hudson NY
    917-589-2625
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  • 5.  RE: Pulley keys

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 07-20-2021 17:57
    David S.,

    What kind of glue do you use? Aliphatic resin? Cold hide? Other?

    And in what ratio to the water used to thin it?

    Thanks, 
    Alan

    ------------------------------
    Alan Eder, RPT
    Herb Alpert School of Music
    California Institute of the Arts
    Valencia, CA
    661.904.6483
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  • 6.  RE: Pulley keys

    Member
    Posted 07-20-2021 18:17
    David, I knew I should have kept my mouth shut!  Currently using white birch. A hardwood but not noisy like maple can be. A soft hardwood?  Grain orientation matching the keystick. We aim for same depth. It helps that I have a dedicated set up for the job. Having the keyframe on hand is essential. No video(!) but I'll try to remember to take some pics tomorrow. 

    Yes, for one or two minor pulley keys I would glue size.  
    Deb






  • 7.  RE: Pulley keys

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 07-20-2021 19:37
    Deb -
    I love 'dedicated set-ups'.  Allows you to party late (the old days) and still do a decent job.  Just kidding, really,  as, set up or not, you're using a router and are fond of your fingers and all.

    Alan -
    Beyond saying that I prefer hot-hide, I feel somewhat stupid, in that I don't do this quite often enough to codify the ratios, which, given the variables of hide glue itself, might not be possible.  My preferance is based more on bias and assumption than on rigorous experimentation.  I assume that hide glue will cure harder than white glue.  I feel a bit more in control of the dilution.  As I'm thinning it, I test by rubbing between my fingers and judging the remaining adheasion.   I make the mix as warm as I can.   If it crusts up as I apply it, I suspect it needs more water.

    Note, I could have said "thin to taste" but then I'd need a 'glue-licking' dog like Terry Farrell has.


    ------------------------------
    David Skolnik [RPT]
    Hastings-on-Hudson NY
    917-589-2625
    ------------------------------



  • 8.  RE: Pulley keys

    Posted 07-20-2021 20:11
    I do the same technique as Deb. Very simple and accurate. Only thing to be careful about is, if the pulley is really bad, indexing the jigs off the balance hole can be a crap shoot. I usually do this work before trimming the key fronts, so slight adjustments back or frontwards can be accommodated by trimming the fronts after the new balance holes are in.

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    Jim Ialeggio
    grandpianosolutions.com
    Shirley, MA
    978 425-9026
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  • 9.  RE: Pulley keys

    Member
    Posted 07-20-2021 20:37
    Jim,
    When indexing I use the balance pin and the key fronts are aligned along a stop rail as the little locator gizmo gets the key pressed down on it.

    Deb





  • 10.  RE: Pulley keys

    Posted 07-20-2021 21:01
    pic?

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    Jim Ialeggio
    grandpianosolutions.com
    Shirley, MA
    978 425-9026
    ------------------------------



  • 11.  RE: Pulley keys

    Member
    Posted 07-20-2021 21:25
    Jim,

    I'll be in the shop tomorrow and will take some.

    Deb





  • 12.  RE: Pulley keys

    Member
    Posted 07-20-2021 21:26
    I have a kit that was made for repairing pulley keys. It consisted of a bit that you chuck in a drill press and round inserts like those gummed re-enforcements
    used on papers in 3 ring binders. Its someplace in my shop tool cabinet. Very easy to use . The inserts are quite strong that fit perfectly in the hole created by the bit . Not sure where I got it or if it is still made but I have a large supply of inserts. Of course I also glue size some of the smaller elongated holes.

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    James Kelly
    Owner- Fur Elise Piano Service
    Pawleys Island SC
    843-325-4357
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  • 13.  RE: Pulley keys

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 07-20-2021 22:19
    James-
    That might have been Ralph Onesti in Philadelphia. There was someone else who was doing that but I think he had it put together a little better.


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    David Skolnik [RPT]
    Hastings-on-Hudson NY
    917-589-2625
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  • 14.  RE: Pulley keys

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 07-21-2021 00:40
    I have the Onesti system. Very good but I'm looking for something simpler.

    ------------------------------
    David Love RPT
    www.davidlovepianos.com
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net
    415 407 8320
    ------------------------------



  • 15.  RE: Pulley keys

    Posted 07-21-2021 07:53
    Here's my version of what it sounds like Deb is doing. Quite simple.  2 positioning jigs with drill guides. These pics show changing the hole on a new set of shoes. The maple was way too noisy, so I was changing out the maple at the hole for poplar




    ------------------------------
    Jim Ialeggio
    grandpianosolutions.com
    Shirley, MA
    978 425-9026
    ------------------------------



  • 16.  RE: Pulley keys

    Member
    Posted 07-21-2021 08:20
    Jim,

    Almost. Rather than the "pin" being part of the little register tool, I use the actual balance pin on the keyframe. No worries about guessing on holes that are very elongated. I'll try to get some pics on here soon. In the midst of finishing a job for shipping out today.

    Deb





  • 17.  RE: Pulley keys

    Member
    Posted 07-21-2021 08:47
    Ok, here are some pics...the first is the indexing tool. Red paint on one end is a reminder for me so that I always use it in the same orientation...red/rear. The second shows the indexing tool placed over the balance pin. Although shadowing makes it look otherwise, there is no play in the hole around the pin. The keyset is propped with a length of aluminum channel, just back of the front rail of the keyframe so as to position all keys as they would be with stack in place...contacting back rail and balance rail. Some balance rail punchings removed to approximate thickness of indexing tool as each key is indexed. Third pic show underside of key with register marks.  Final pic shows insert in place, glued, and drilled.  The hole in the indexing tool is used as the drill guide for the new balance hole. Currently I have two tools, one for .146 and another for .162

    Currently I haven't found any photos of the routing process. I'll create some later today.

    Deb





  • 18.  RE: Pulley keys

    Member
    Posted 07-21-2021 10:14
    Let me add here...out of frustration...when the photos were loaded to the site, they are in backwards order. I'm working off my phone at the moment and have no intention of trying to fix it nor actually caption it. 

    Oh well. Tried.

    Deb





  • 19.  RE: Pulley keys

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 07-21-2021 12:45
    Thank you both Jim and Debra for visuals and explanations.  I'm ashamed (almost) to admit that I had forgotten that we had been doing this, oh, around 25 years ago while at Manhattan School.  I had someone working for me, part time, who was a guitar maker and machinist.  I would say: "i want to be able to do x" and he would figure it out.  This was his solution, virtually to a 'T'.  John Morgan, from Brooklyn.  He'd work for a  time and then leave when I become too difficult to deal with.

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    David Skolnik [RPT]
    Hastings-on-Hudson NY
    917-589-2625
    ------------------------------



  • 20.  RE: Pulley keys

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 07-23-2021 08:05
    Deb,

    I am impressed with this.  It is a perfect example of K.I.S.S.

    Pwg

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    Peter Grey
    Stratham NH
    603-686-2395
    pianodoctor57@gmail.com
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  • 21.  RE: Pulley keys

    Member
    Posted 07-23-2021 09:10
    Peter,
    Yep.
    Deb

    --
    5 Tarr's Lane WEST
    Rockport, MA  01966
    978-546-8428





  • 22.  RE: Pulley keys

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 07-21-2021 12:59
    There’s a Spurlock article in May 1990 describing a set up for replacing shoes. I’ve had good luck on a couple of sets following the method and tools (involves router/table.) His indexing tool is described well.

    Joe Wiencek




  • 23.  RE: Pulley keys

    Posted 07-22-2021 22:43
    A point to note is that the left-to-right positioning of the hole determines the location of the back of the key. Sometimes the top button needs to be replaced to keep the front square.

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    Regards,

    Jon Page
    mailto:jonpage@comcast.net
    http://www.pianocapecod.com
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  • 24.  RE: Pulley keys

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 07-26-2021 16:42
    I had to do a little research to find this, but I think it can add to the discussion about this topic.  It is from articles written a while ago about a shop procedure that is quick and fairly long-lasting.  I hope it is useful to some....
    Here is how you find them:

    On the home page ptg.org, go to the Technicians section.  Choose Magazines and Publications and then The Piano Technicians Journal.  There is a button to Access the Journal Online...

    • in the earliest scans, click on the 1979 folder icon at the bottom and go up near the top of the page and double click on "1979."  Scroll down to find the printed editions.
    • The 1979-04 pdf, page 27 is our first column and explains what we are trying to do. A couple of pages later, on p.29 it introduces us in the convention faculty descriptions, for those of you who do not know of us. Currently, you can ignore the university affiliation as that has not been the case for a couple of decades.
    • The 1979-06 pdf, page 31 addresses pulley keys and a solution I have not seen suggested in this topic. If a strip of maple veneer is used, this procedure does last for a long time.

    Joel

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    Joel Rappaport
    Rappaport's Piano Workshop
    Round Rock TX
    512-255-0440
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  • 25.  RE: Pulley keys

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 07-27-2021 01:11
    Thanks Joel. I was looking for something on the veneer method. I'll check it out.

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    David Love RPT
    www.davidlovepianos.com
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net
    415 407 8320
    ------------------------------



  • 26.  RE: Pulley keys

    Member
    Posted 07-27-2021 09:30
    I use boiling water and alcohol (ethanol) in 50/50 proportion (Just eyeballed, not super precise).  Straight boiling water works too, but adding the alcohol seems to help in the penetration to the wood.  I use a pipe cleaner to swab the holes with the mixture.

    I used to use steam, but swabbing the holes seems to work better, so I actually just use my steamer as a water boiler now.  Let it sit overnight to dry.

    You'd be amazed what steam or boiling water can do to crushed wood.

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    Luke Taylor
    Temple City CA
    310-386-7014
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