Hi, Cy,
Agreed on the maintenance ideas. Also, I’ve seen other caddies split out the end of the wood pieces where the friction knobs tighten to hold the caddy firm - when it’s up you need to snug those knobs or the top will sink down, but not too much. And when it’s collapsed, I barely snug them at all, just to keep strain off the wood there.
And LaRoy, what a brain! Always thinking, never fully satisfied with any project. At the last convention, where he taught a class on lots of his inventions, he showed several prototype additions to that caddy. One was a set of front “legs” that would attach to the bottom pieces of the caddy, behind the front wheels, which would tip the whole caddy (action and all) up in front. I think the legs were a good 8-10” long. The result was that you could sit in a chair in front of the action and have a nice sight-line for doing capstans, hammer leveling, etc.
He also showed a prototype for a regulation rail which would attach to the back of the caddy. I have photos from that class which I haven’t looked at in a while. I certainly have a pic of the front legs, I’d have to look to see if I got one of the regulation rack. None of his ideas were in production then, just asking the class for input and reactions.
I hadn’t thought about a tool tray, maybe something could be suspended between the rails in the front, where you can reach it. I often just have a chair within reach and put a tool tray on that.
Lots of possibilities.
Original Message------
I've had my Edwards action caddy for seven years. It's great, but I have some maintenance tips. Let me share the mistakes I've made.
- Get in the habit of storing it vertically with the piano-facing side up. After I replaced the rubber bumpers that touch the <g class="gr_ gr_159 gr-alert gr_spell gr_disable_anim_appear ContextualSpelling" id="159" data-gr-id="159">keyslip</g> a few times, I realized I was dragging them off on the ground.
- It's easy to expand it by loosening the friction screws, holding the top, and letting it drop down with a satisfying snap. A few dozen rounds of <g class="gr_ gr_321 gr-alert gr_gramm gr_disable_anim_appear Punctuation only-del replaceWithoutSep" id="321" data-gr-id="321">that,</g> and the force broke out the pieces of wood that the screws touch when it is at full height.
- Snug up all the screws from time to time, but pay careful attention to the screws holding the casters. One time I had the caddy wobble after I had pulled out a concert grand action, only to find there was only one screw left holding one caster! I've had to eventually replace all four casters.
- I like to remove the keyslip and cheek blocks, set the height to about 1/4" below the keybed, and lock it. Then I pull the action until the drop screws are visible, and slide the caddy under. Remove any throw rugs first, and make sure the balance rail support screws are lowered.
- It can be used crosswise in tight spots (parallel to the <g class="gr_ gr_833 gr-alert gr_spell gr_disable_anim_appear ContextualSpelling" id="833" data-gr-id="833">keyslip</g>).
- I touch up the finish occasionally with Minwax.
- It just takes a small amount of upward pressure on the balance rail for let-off and checking to work. Those screws are a nice feature.
I've thought about adding a tool tray. I'd be interested in any modifications that are helpful.
--Cy--
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Cy Shuster, RPT
Albuquerque, NM
http://www.shusterpiano.com
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