CAUT

Hi All,

The Situation:

When restringing withOUT replacing the tuning pin block, one issue is that the tuning pin hole is larger where occupied by the original tuning pin, but slightly smaller beyond the tip of the pin. Problems can arise if the newly installed, somewhat larger replacement tuning pin goes into the block any farther than the original, resulting in higher torque at the bottom of the pin than at the top (undesirable, and--in the opinion of many-- the opposite of ideal).

So, what to do?

Some techs drill out the hole with a hand drill. I have not tried this, and don't know that I will, as some fairly skilled rebuilders have reported inconsistent results with this method. No doubt, some use it successfully, but they seem to be the fortunate few that "have the touch."

Other rebuilders use shorter tuning pins for the restring, to ensure not getting into the tighter part of the hole. That solves the problem under discussion, but at the cost of a compromise elsewhere.

The Proposed Solution:

I have been considering removing the strings, checking the torque of the existing pins (after measuring all of the new pins, the originals that were formerly looser would get the slightly larger ones), and then pounding IN the original tuning pins a few millimeters (remember, the strings have been removed), in order to achive a safety margin at the bottom of the hole, beyond where the new pin would encounter the dreaded "ledge." This would not take a lot of time, and so far in my mental modeling, I have not been able to think of any downside.

Has anyone ever tried this before? If you have, please share your outcomes.

Can anyone that has done lots of restringing think of a compelling reason to NOT do this? Inquiring minds...

Stay safe,

Alan

Hi All,

The Situation:

When restringing withOUT replacing the tuning pin block, one issue is that the tuning pin hole is larger where occupied by the original tuning pin, but slightly smaller beyond the tip of the pin. Problems can arise if the newly installed, somewhat larger replacement tuning pin goes into the block any farther than the original, resulting in higher torque at the bottom of the pin than at the top (undesirable, and--in the opinion of many-- the opposite of ideal).

So, what to do?

Some techs drill out the hole with a hand drill. I have not tried this, and don't know that I will, as some fairly skilled rebuilders have reported inconsistent results with this method. No doubt, some use it successfully, but they seem to be the fortunate few that "have the touch."

Other rebuilders use shorter tuning pins for the restring, to ensure not getting into the tighter part of the hole. That solves the problem under discussion, but at the cost of a compromise elsewhere.

The Proposed Solution:

I have been considering removing the strings, checking the torque of the existing pins (after measuring all of the new pins, the originals that were formerly looser would get the slightly larger ones), and then pounding IN the original tuning pins a few millimeters (remember, the strings have been removed), in order to achive a safety margin at the bottom of the hole, beyond where the new pin would encounter the dreaded "ledge." This would not take a lot of time, and so far in my mental modeling, I have not been able to think of any downside.

Has anyone ever tried this before? If you have, please share your outcomes.

Can anyone that has done lots of restringing think of a compelling reason to NOT do this? Inquiring minds...

Stay safe,

Alan

Hi All,

The Situation:

When restringing withOUT replacing the tuning pin block, one issue is that the tuning pin hole is larger where occupied by the original tuning pin, but slightly smaller beyond the tip of the pin. Problems can arise if the newly installed, somewhat larger replacement tuning pin goes into the block any farther than the original, resulting in higher torque at the bottom of the pin than at the top (undesirable, and--in the opinion of many-- the opposite of ideal).

So, what to do?

Some techs drill out the hole with a hand drill. I have not tried this, and don't know that I will, as some fairly skilled rebuilders have reported inconsistent results with this method. No doubt, some use it successfully, but they seem to be the fortunate few that "have the touch."

Other rebuilders use shorter tuning pins for the restring, to ensure not getting into the tighter part of the hole. That solves the problem under discussion, but at the cost of a compromise elsewhere.

The Proposed Solution:

I have been considering removing the strings, checking the torque of the existing pins (after measuring all of the new pins, the originals that were formerly looser would get the slightly larger ones), and then pounding IN the original tuning pins a few millimeters (remember, the strings have been removed), in order to achive a safety margin at the bottom of the hole, beyond where the new pin would encounter the dreaded "ledge." This would not take a lot of time, and so far in my mental modeling, I have not been able to think of any downside.

Has anyone ever tried this before? If you have, please share your outcomes.

Can anyone that has done lots of restringing think of a compelling reason to NOT do this? Inquiring minds...

Stay safe,

Alan

I wouldn't replace the plate bushings unless they are cracked or dried out and are pulling up the pins or turning.

If the pins feel mushy or you suspect they are rusty, I'd replace them. I'd keep them only if they are consistently borderline overtight or just right but can be wound in up to a turn down.

Hi All,

The Situation:

When restringing withOUT replacing the tuning pin block, one issue is that the tuning pin hole is larger where occupied by the original tuning pin, but slightly smaller beyond the tip of the pin. Problems can arise if the newly installed, somewhat larger replacement tuning pin goes into the block any farther than the original, resulting in higher torque at the bottom of the pin than at the top (undesirable, and--in the opinion of many-- the opposite of ideal).

So, what to do?

Some techs drill out the hole with a hand drill. I have not tried this, and don't know that I will, as some fairly skilled rebuilders have reported inconsistent results with this method. No doubt, some use it successfully, but they seem to be the fortunate few that "have the touch."

Other rebuilders use shorter tuning pins for the restring, to ensure not getting into the tighter part of the hole. That solves the problem under discussion, but at the cost of a compromise elsewhere.

The Proposed Solution:

I have been considering removing the strings, checking the torque of the existing pins (after measuring all of the new pins, the originals that were formerly looser would get the slightly larger ones), and then pounding IN the original tuning pins a few millimeters (remember, the strings have been removed), in order to achive a safety margin at the bottom of the hole, beyond where the new pin would encounter the dreaded "ledge." This would not take a lot of time, and so far in my mental modeling, I have not been able to think of any downside.

Has anyone ever tried this before? If you have, please share your outcomes.

Can anyone that has done lots of restringing think of a compelling reason to NOT do this? Inquiring minds...

Stay safe,

Alan

I wouldn't replace the plate bushings unless they are cracked or dried out and are pulling up the pins or turning.

If the pins feel mushy or you suspect they are rusty, I'd replace them. I'd keep them only if they are consistently borderline overtight or just right but can be wound in up to a turn down.

Hi All,

The Situation:

When restringing withOUT replacing the tuning pin block, one issue is that the tuning pin hole is larger where occupied by the original tuning pin, but slightly smaller beyond the tip of the pin. Problems can arise if the newly installed, somewhat larger replacement tuning pin goes into the block any farther than the original, resulting in higher torque at the bottom of the pin than at the top (undesirable, and--in the opinion of many-- the opposite of ideal).

So, what to do?

Some techs drill out the hole with a hand drill. I have not tried this, and don't know that I will, as some fairly skilled rebuilders have reported inconsistent results with this method. No doubt, some use it successfully, but they seem to be the fortunate few that "have the touch."

Other rebuilders use shorter tuning pins for the restring, to ensure not getting into the tighter part of the hole. That solves the problem under discussion, but at the cost of a compromise elsewhere.

The Proposed Solution:

I have been considering removing the strings, checking the torque of the existing pins (after measuring all of the new pins, the originals that were formerly looser would get the slightly larger ones), and then pounding IN the original tuning pins a few millimeters (remember, the strings have been removed), in order to achive a safety margin at the bottom of the hole, beyond where the new pin would encounter the dreaded "ledge." This would not take a lot of time, and so far in my mental modeling, I have not been able to think of any downside.

Has anyone ever tried this before? If you have, please share your outcomes.

Can anyone that has done lots of restringing think of a compelling reason to NOT do this? Inquiring minds...

Stay safe,

Alan

I wouldn't replace the plate bushings unless they are cracked or dried out and are pulling up the pins or turning.

If the pins feel mushy or you suspect they are rusty, I'd replace them. I'd keep them only if they are consistently borderline overtight or just right but can be wound in up to a turn down.

Hi All,

The Situation:

When restringing withOUT replacing the tuning pin block, one issue is that the tuning pin hole is larger where occupied by the original tuning pin, but slightly smaller beyond the tip of the pin. Problems can arise if the newly installed, somewhat larger replacement tuning pin goes into the block any farther than the original, resulting in higher torque at the bottom of the pin than at the top (undesirable, and--in the opinion of many-- the opposite of ideal).

So, what to do?

Some techs drill out the hole with a hand drill. I have not tried this, and don't know that I will, as some fairly skilled rebuilders have reported inconsistent results with this method. No doubt, some use it successfully, but they seem to be the fortunate few that "have the touch."

Other rebuilders use shorter tuning pins for the restring, to ensure not getting into the tighter part of the hole. That solves the problem under discussion, but at the cost of a compromise elsewhere.

The Proposed Solution:

I have been considering removing the strings, checking the torque of the existing pins (after measuring all of the new pins, the originals that were formerly looser would get the slightly larger ones), and then pounding IN the original tuning pins a few millimeters (remember, the strings have been removed), in order to achive a safety margin at the bottom of the hole, beyond where the new pin would encounter the dreaded "ledge." This would not take a lot of time, and so far in my mental modeling, I have not been able to think of any downside.

Has anyone ever tried this before? If you have, please share your outcomes.

Can anyone that has done lots of restringing think of a compelling reason to NOT do this? Inquiring minds...

Stay safe,

Alan

Hi All,

The Situation:

When restringing withOUT replacing the tuning pin block, one issue is that the tuning pin hole is larger where occupied by the original tuning pin, but slightly smaller beyond the tip of the pin. Problems can arise if the newly installed, somewhat larger replacement tuning pin goes into the block any farther than the original, resulting in higher torque at the bottom of the pin than at the top (undesirable, and--in the opinion of many-- the opposite of ideal).

So, what to do?

Some techs drill out the hole with a hand drill. I have not tried this, and don't know that I will, as some fairly skilled rebuilders have reported inconsistent results with this method. No doubt, some use it successfully, but they seem to be the fortunate few that "have the touch."

Other rebuilders use shorter tuning pins for the restring, to ensure not getting into the tighter part of the hole. That solves the problem under discussion, but at the cost of a compromise elsewhere.

The Proposed Solution:

I have been considering removing the strings, checking the torque of the existing pins (after measuring all of the new pins, the originals that were formerly looser would get the slightly larger ones), and then pounding IN the original tuning pins a few millimeters (remember, the strings have been removed), in order to achive a safety margin at the bottom of the hole, beyond where the new pin would encounter the dreaded "ledge." This would not take a lot of time, and so far in my mental modeling, I have not been able to think of any downside.

Has anyone ever tried this before? If you have, please share your outcomes.

Can anyone that has done lots of restringing think of a compelling reason to NOT do this? Inquiring minds...

Stay safe,

Alan

Hi All,

The Situation:

When restringing withOUT replacing the tuning pin block, one issue is that the tuning pin hole is larger where occupied by the original tuning pin, but slightly smaller beyond the tip of the pin. Problems can arise if the newly installed, somewhat larger replacement tuning pin goes into the block any farther than the original, resulting in higher torque at the bottom of the pin than at the top (undesirable, and--in the opinion of many-- the opposite of ideal).

So, what to do?

Some techs drill out the hole with a hand drill. I have not tried this, and don't know that I will, as some fairly skilled rebuilders have reported inconsistent results with this method. No doubt, some use it successfully, but they seem to be the fortunate few that "have the touch."

Other rebuilders use shorter tuning pins for the restring, to ensure not getting into the tighter part of the hole. That solves the problem under discussion, but at the cost of a compromise elsewhere.

The Proposed Solution:

I have been considering removing the strings, checking the torque of the existing pins (after measuring all of the new pins, the originals that were formerly looser would get the slightly larger ones), and then pounding IN the original tuning pins a few millimeters (remember, the strings have been removed), in order to achive a safety margin at the bottom of the hole, beyond where the new pin would encounter the dreaded "ledge." This would not take a lot of time, and so far in my mental modeling, I have not been able to think of any downside.

Has anyone ever tried this before? If you have, please share your outcomes.

Can anyone that has done lots of restringing think of a compelling reason to NOT do this? Inquiring minds...

Stay safe,

Alan