Greetings,Two situations in which the holes of screws that fasten things to their respective lids have stripped out. One is a lid indexing pin (is that the correct term for the male part in the lid that drops into the female part that is attached to the inside of the outer rim at the treble end?). That is on a Bosendorfer. The other striped screw holes are for the lock bar screw holes--yes, ALL of them--on a Steinway.
Have yet to figure out how the lid index screw holes stripped out on the Bosie. There is no sign of any impact on the lid that would have stressed these connectors. As the young people say, "Whatever."
On the Steinway lock bar, the holes were apparently stripped out by people repeatedly closing the front lid by grabbing the lock bar, rather than the front lid itself. It looks like the screws gradually loosened and eventually stripped out their holes. To add to the challenge, some of the screws are missing, and Steinway no longer provides the 2 1/4" long, #14 flat-head slotted wood screws for the lock bar of this 32 year old model B. Unless I can locate some of those screws from a third party, it would appear that I have no alternative but to go ahead and violate the Steinway-ed-ness of this instrument by using non-OEM screws. (Hey, at least I tried!)These are the options I have come up with so far for recreating holes that will anchor the screws in question:1) drill out, and plug with wood2) use wood putty
3) use leather and wood glue
4) use paper towel and thin CA glueIf the stripped holes were in were a beefier piece of wood, I would plug them. But due to the relative thinness of the lids, that approach could be tricky.If you have successfully done this kind of repair, please share how you accomplished it. Idle speculation could also prove useful.Also, if you happen to have any of the OEM screws for the 32 year-old Steinway B lock bar (as described above), I would be interested in acquiring them from you.
I really like Jon's idea of using machine screws & metal inserts. These could be epoxied in place if more strength is needed.
Another option would be JB Weld or JB Quick which are dark in color (black & grey respectively). Either filled & drilled or something like McLube 444 applied To the screws...then screws could be removed & tested by hand. Wax paper or perhaps plastic wrap placed on areas until after epoxy has cured. Otherwise it could stick to the lock bar.
(screw the All-Steinway method since they don't even offer the THINGS!! No pun intended!)