I generally pull the pins in the capo area, sand the bridge top flat leaving the grooves visible (IOW minimum removal of wood), clean up the notches as needed, and replace with same size new pins, having applied thin CA in the holes before driving pins - I do it maybe 2-3 unisons at a time, applying CA in each hole and then driving those pins.
Generally, this is adequate. Check downbearing first to see that it would be somewhat positive, at least not negative. It will end up the same as it is now, so you can check using the strings that are in place using a DB gauge.
One could cap that portion of the bridge, which requires removing pins, routing to the depth of the proposed cap, plugging the holes, gluing the cap, marking for pins, drilling for pins, notching, etc. It's a good bit of work that requires some skill, but certainly doable. No need to replace the whole bridge.