The very best shellac can be made by taking 190 proof ethanol from the liquor store (Clear Spring or Everclear, not all states allow 190 proof) and adding it to shellac flakes. I found that making it in fairly small mason jars works well, because you need a very tight seal to prevent water from getting into it, and a normal screw lid will be irretrievably glued fast by the shellac. The ring of a mason jar can be removed, however, and the lid can be pried up fairly easily.
I fill the jar with the flakes, pour in the ethanol to cover, immediately seal extremely well, and warm the sides of the jar in a hot water bath, agitating it now and then. Then I leave it overnight and shake it a little bit if a few flakes at the bottom aren't dissolved yet.
It's great shellac because 190 proof is so dry. You can also add color to it very easily by putting in powdered aniline dye, which dissolves instantly and has no muddy fillers in it. Or you could use a colored shellac, since some come in orange or ruby versions. For powdered aniline dye, I had very good luck with J.E. Moser's. It comes in a great variety of colors.
If kept very well sealed, and made from a fresh bottle of 190 proof ethanol, this shellac will last for years.
------------------------------
Susan Kline
Philomath, Oregon
------------------------------
Original Message:
Sent: 04-07-2020 16:47
From: Willem Blees
Subject: Soundboard preparation
Hi Laura
Most soundboards are finished in shellac. I use denatured alcohol and lots of old rags to remove the old finish. Use a chisel or screwdriver covered in an alcohol soaked rag to get in all the tight spots.
------------------------------
Willem "Wim" Blees, RPT
Mililani, HI 96789
Original Message:
Sent: 04-07-2020 14:55
From: Laura Wright
Subject: Soundboard preparation
Hello all, I'm looking for advice on an efficient and effective way to prepare an old soundboard for refinishing, i.e. sanding methods, etc. I've done several in the past, and I've never been completely pleased with the results; sometimes there are streaks, or darker spots, usually up close to the bridges where it's difficult to sand.
Thanks in advance!
------------------------------
Laura Wright, RPT
Ivory Keys Piano Service
Durango CO
------------------------------