Sure, Joe
Here's the part of the post which dealt with loose hammer heads:
<<One little tactic I've used for years: if upright hammers are loose on the shanks, put a little bit of white glue on the pinky of your right hand, reach in, and smear it into the seam where the hammer meets the shank, most of it being toward the strings. Then check to be sure that none is dripping down the shank into the hammer rest rail felt. (I glued a hammer shank to the felt once.) Within a few minutes the hammer should be firm on the shank.
It's easy enough to flex all the hammers, right thumb against the tail and right index finger against the strike point, and see if they move just a little bit. The treble ones seem especially prone to getting loose. I've found this fix to be fast and easy and permanent.
It did take me awhile to figure out that I should keep a small bottle of white glue (Elmer's) in my kit, instead of a larger one.>>
The ease and speed of this depends on two good points: (1) you only treat the hammers which are actually loose, and (2) you don't need to remove the action, or to bring any special tools. Since the repair takes seconds and requires only a small bottle of white glue, treating all the hammers to prevent any others from coming loose seems like overkill.
For loose jack flanges, on the other hand, each one which works loose can jam a note, and gluing one back in accurately without removing the wippen is kind of a pain. So, if a very old upright has several jack flanges coming loose, it's worth the trouble to treat them all with glue dilute enough to wick in.
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Susan Kline
Philomath, Oregon
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Original Message:
Sent: 02-20-2019 23:31
From: Joe Wiencek
Subject: Susan's White Glue Tip
Susan,
Would you kindly re-post? This is something that has dogged me too many times.
Thanks in advance.
Joe Wiencek
Original Message------
<wide smile> You're very welcome, Thomas!
And if you don't have to pull the hammer off, it means you also won't manage to glue it back on crooked.
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Susan Kline
Philomath, Oregon
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