Pianotech

Hey y'all, I am new to both piano technology (and PTG) so I apologize if I get some terminology wrong.

I have been working on my repairs including changing strings in an upright. I struggled to replace a D#4 string in particular because of how the bass strings run in front of the plain wire strings in this section. It took me so long, and I wasn't sure if I was going to get it but I finally got it after 40 minutes of trying. Side question: is this area called the overstrung section?

I used a string pulling tool while pushing aside the bass strings to get it wrapped around the hitch pin and bridge pins. It was so difficult! Hopefully practice makes perfect, but I was hoping do y'all have any tips for replacing a string in this area?

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Chase Lirette
Metairie LA
chase@chasetunespianos.com
(985) 791-1022
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Not fun, but you got it done. The only thing I would add is that I would have loosened some of the bass strings to get access behind them.  I have a pair of long nose Vise Grip pliers that I clamp on the hitch pin so the wire won't come off.  I would have used some long nose pliers to help lay the string across the bridge and pins.  It also helps to remove the action so you don't mess up the damper felts.  Some use a piece of stiff tubing to guide the wire down to the hitch pin.  The real challenge comes if the string is in the upper register of the treble area where the bridge is directly behind the key bed, and you struggle to guide the wire over the bridge pins there.  Multiply that if it's a spinet, and you have to remove the action to get to that area.  Etc.  All part of the day to day experience of being a piano tuner.

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Paul McCloud, RPT
Accutone Piano Service
www.AccutonePianoService.com
pavadasa@gmail.com
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If you've done this work for any amount of time, you've done this repair. And it's equally difficult/frustrating/time consuming. Congratulations! Loosening a couple bass strings gets you access to the hitch pin. Schaff sells a tool that pays for itself many times over, or you can make one. It's in their tool section under stringing.

https://staging.schaffpiano.com/The-Stringer-Ii

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Stewart Freedman, RPT
Freedman Piano Service
Akron, OH
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Hi Chase,

It's pretty straightforward to replace a string in the overstrung area with the right tools and techniques. The first step is to measure an amount of wire longer than what you need and put a bend in approximately the middle for the hitchpin - or procure a replacement wound string. 

The first tool is a guide to maneuver the wire or the replacement bass string under the upper level of strings.

• Schaff sells a tool called "The Stringer II" for this purpose - sectional construction and ready to go.
• You can also make one out of brass tubing with a fitting soldered to the end and a cap with two holes for the plain wire loop. The cap is generally removed for bass strings. The copper can be gently formed to conform to the angles you need. 
• 
• A third option is the telescoping tool that you will find from some Asian suppliers - not useful for bass strings but easy to carry and fits in tight spaces. 
• 
• 
• Slip the loop over the hitch pin and seat around far side of the hitchpin then secure with hemostats.
• 
• Use a standard stringing hook (for lifting) and a string leveling hook (for pushing) to thread around the bridge pins.
• 
• Insert through agraffe or around agraffe pin.
• String onto pin in normal fashion. 
• Pull to tension and ease bends to conform.
• Add the procedure to the invoice.

I hope this helps.

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Allan Gilreath, RPT
Registered Piano Technician & President
Allan Gilreath & Associates, Inc
Calhoun, GA
706-602-7667
allan@allangilreath.com - www.allangilreath.com
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My preference for this was two 24" lengths of 1/8" brass tubing, taped together parallel.

Bend the string in half and feed into the tubes. Attach to hitchpins and bridge pins as others have mentioned.

Slide the tubes up and off the string(s).

Being Sure to maintain the left/right orientation of the strings.

And that's the point of having double tubes.

It's no fun to go through the repair and realize, as you start pulling to pitch, that the unison pair has crossed over itself.

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Ed Sutton
ed440@me.com
(980) 254-7413
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This tends to be the most difficult on the larger grands and smaller uprights. The tools mentioned above are well worth the expense and having on hand. Small vice grips to keep the wire on the hitch pin are really important. I generally use a string hook and screwdriver to position the wire on the bridge pins.

On some spinets you can unscrew from the plate and just tip them back rather than completely removing the action. Figuring out how to use both hands while crouched or laying under the keybed is a skill to be learned, it's a plus not to be too tall or too big.

Once the wire is fed down behind the bass strings, I then put the loose ends under the V-bar or agraffs first, before positioning the wire around the hitch/bridge pins at the bottom. Then double triple check that the strings are properly oriented and not crossed.

Another problem on small pianos is that the lowest tuning pins are often quite close to the V-bar so it's difficult to measure and get your coils made. Having a dummy tuning pin that has been cut short is really helpful in this circumstance. Make sure the wire is well seated on the hitch pin.

This is one job in which even with the best tools, planning, and foresight, can still take 40 minutes or more on any given day.

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Steven Rosenthal RPT
Honolulu HI
(808) 521-7129
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Original Message:
Sent: 08-08-2026 11:15
From: Ed Sutton
Subject: Tips for replacing a plain wire upright string in the midrange section?

My preference for this was two 24" lengths of 1/8" brass tubing, taped together parallel.

Bend the string in half and feed into the tubes. Attach to hitchpins and bridge pins as others have mentioned.

Slide the tubes up and off the string(s).

Being Sure to maintain the left/right orientation of the strings.

And that's the point of having double tubes.

It's no fun to go through the repair and realize, as you start pulling to pitch, that the unison pair has crossed over itself.

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Ed Sutton
ed440@me.com
(980) 254-7413
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To add one small piece:  Any round object that will spread the bass strings and hold them is helpful. They will spread 1-1/2" or even 2". You can choose your spot to provide the most space possible for working in that bridge area. 

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David Patterson RPT
Newmarket ON
(416) 638-0901
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If at all possible, I try to splice the string here. 

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Tim Foster RPT
New Oxford PA
(470) 231-6074
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Original Message:
Sent: 08-08-2026 15:08
From: David Patterson
Subject: Tips for replacing a plain wire upright string in the midrange section?

To add one small piece:  Any round object that will spread the bass strings and hold them is helpful. They will spread 1-1/2" or even 2". You can choose your spot to provide the most space possible for working in that bridge area. 

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David Patterson RPT
Newmarket ON
(416) 638-0901
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I'm with Tim on this...but sometimes its just plain impossible due to clearances (lack of). 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

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Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com
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Original Message:
Sent: 08-08-2026 22:03
From: Tim Foster
Subject: Tips for replacing a plain wire upright string in the midrange section?

If at all possible, I try to splice the string here. 

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Tim Foster RPT
New Oxford PA
(470) 231-6074
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Original Message:
Sent: 08-08-2026 15:08
From: David Patterson
Subject: Tips for replacing a plain wire upright string in the midrange section?

To add one small piece:  Any round object that will spread the bass strings and hold them is helpful. They will spread 1-1/2" or even 2". You can choose your spot to provide the most space possible for working in that bridge area. 

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David Patterson RPT
Newmarket ON
(416) 638-0901
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