ARCHER’S INSIDER’S GUIDE TO CHUK’SHON
Welcome to the Nueva España settlement, in Baja Arizona, once called Chuk’shon. You can call it Tucson, as long as you spell it correctly to reflect the prior name from the Tohono O’odham language. You are entering one of the longest-settled regions of this continent. A place I’ve called home, off and on, over the span of a brief 25 years. Avenues are north-south running, streets are east-west. According to hometown musicians, Calexico, there’s not much worth visiting east of Alvernon Way (though there is Polish Cottage and, even farther out, the mind-blowing Baja Cafe, deliciously bending the logic of culinary arts). Most importantly, stay hydrated, eat fats, stay hydrated, have agua fresca, stay hydrated. Addresses below are noted to specify which location when there’s more than one. Places are listed from proximate to distant as measured from Starr Pass Resort. This list is for the adventurous. If that’s not you, there’s always Waffle House. It’s not far.
-centrally located -
Sonoran Delights Raspados, 921 W Congress Street, very local, very much a cheap dive Mexican restaurant with excellent authentic cooking
Mercado San Agustin, 100 S Avenida del Convento, a little plaza mercado offering many menus and services not far from Starr Pass Resort
La Fresita West, 1450 W St Mary’s Road, fresh delicious tacos and burros, the best flan in Tucson, where I used to pick up breakfast if I didn’t cook beforehand
St Mary's Mexican Food, 1030 W St Mary’s Road, amazing burros, tres leches cake
The Little One, 151 N Stone Avenue, for breakfast or lunch, mandatory hugs, loud music, most customers have eaten here for decades, CASH ONLY
Penca, 50 E Broadway, a relatively new place for craft cocktails and fine Mexican dinner, try tepache, bacanora, chicharrones and other authentic rarities
Owls Club, 236 S Scott Avenue, whisky and mescal selection is superb, southwestern speakeasy atmosphere, live music often
Pueblo Vida Brewing, 115 E Broadway, for strong intense craft ales, dark or cloudy honey-colored
Iron John’s Brewing – Downtown, 222 E Congress Street, the thing about Iron John’s is that they concoct daring, absurdist recipes and then massage these concepts into smooth beers, I prefer the outrageousness of Pueblo Vida but many wise tasters appreciate the wizardry of Iron John’s
La Cocina, 201 N Court Avenue, an outdoor plaza surrounded with food shops and a craft ale bar, often live music
Cafe Poca Cosa, 110 E Pennington Street, expensive high-end fine Mexican cuisine, if you go ask for a margarita made with Chinaco tequila, hopefully Christopher, the owner’s son, will make it if he’s in town
ANELLO, 222 E 6th Street, artisan wood-fired pizza in a humble, minimalist space
Five Points Market & Restaurant, 756 S Stone Avenue, innovative gastro-deli dishes
Martins Comida Chingona, 557 N 4th Avenue, for a few decades this has been one of my favorite kitchens, good Mexican wrestler atmosphere, sidewalk seating or stay cool inside on the trendy stretch of Fourth Avenue
Tumerico, 2526 E 6th Street, for amazing modern authentic Mexican, much of it vegetarian or made vegan if you like, this place is delightfully astounding
Seven Cups Fine Chinese Tea, 2516 E 6th Street, importing from farm source the best Chinese tea, seriously, don’t pass this opportunity to at least learn something about true tea
-northside -
Presta Coffee Raosters, 2501 N 1st Avenue, the best third-wave coffee in a lovely modern architectural space, owner is a delightful man, one of Tucson’s former European race-circuit cyclists —hence the business name
Taqueria El Pueblito, 1800 E Fort Lowell Road with entrance facing Campbell Avenue, roasted garlic in the beans, bacon in the burro, savory barbacoa, flan with texture and dynamism . . . did I mention the bacon?
Taqueria Aqui Con El Nene, 4415 N Flowing Wells Road, food truck, outdoor dining, hidden secret, CASH ONLY, you betcha I’ll be eating here
Frost, 7131 N Oracle, the most amazing gelato, ever
-southside -
El Torero, 231 E 26th Street, Tucson family-owned, its own venerated style of Tucson cooking, a local’s secret
Saint Charles Tavern, 1632 S 4th Avenue, games, pool tables, social dancing, craft ale in cans and on draught, Americana in the Southwest
El Guero Canelo, 5201 S 12th Avenue, for caramelos and Sonoran hot dogs, great for after-dark eats, if you’re worried about where you parked your car, you’re in the right place
Though not food, with the exception of Kuumba’s sun-infused coconut oils, I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that Tucson is home to at least three of the nation’s greatest fragrance and salve makers:
Kuumba Made, now at their new location, 2045 N Forbes Blvd #103
Kate’s Magik at Ritual Aroma Boutique, 215 N Court Avenue
La Curie, sold in Mast inside the above mentioned Mercado San Agustin, 100 S Avenida del Convento