CAUT

I am getting ready to re-cap a Boston model GP-193 II. 

The existing bridge cap is rife with failures, but has not lifted (delaminated). 

Does anyone have a method to get the cap glue joint to release from the root without routing/planing or otherwise griding it off?

TIA

Hi Dave,

Have you considered steaming it off?

I am getting ready to re-cap a Boston model GP-193 II. 

The existing bridge cap is rife with failures, but has not lifted (delaminated). 

Does anyone have a method to get the cap glue joint to release from the root without routing/planing or otherwise griding it off?

TIA

Hey, Alan.

I don't know anything about that. But it peaks my interest. 

Boston being essentially a Kawai, my guess is that is a vinyl or formaldehyde glue. Would that still work? 

Thanks for your suggestion. Could you elaborate?

Hi Dave,

Have you considered steaming it off?

I am getting ready to re-cap a Boston model GP-193 II. 

The existing bridge cap is rife with failures, but has not lifted (delaminated). 

Does anyone have a method to get the cap glue joint to release from the root without routing/planing or otherwise griding it off?

TIA

Hey, Alan.

I don't know anything about that. But it peaks my interest. 

Boston being essentially a Kawai, my guess is that is a vinyl or formaldehyde glue. Would that still work? 

Thanks for your suggestion. Could you elaborate?

Hi Dave,

Have you considered steaming it off?

I am getting ready to re-cap a Boston model GP-193 II. 

The existing bridge cap is rife with failures, but has not lifted (delaminated). 

Does anyone have a method to get the cap glue joint to release from the root without routing/planing or otherwise griding it off?

TIA

I have been party to doing this by pulling the bridge pins, making a pattern, laying a moist towel over the bridge cap section in question and applying the iron to create steam. Sounds like Parker has done this without the moisture.

Good point about modern glues. I have only done this on pianos that were old enough to have been put together with high glue.

Good luck, my friend!

Alan

Hey, Alan.

I don't know anything about that. But it peaks my interest. 

Boston being essentially a Kawai, my guess is that is a vinyl or formaldehyde glue. Would that still work? 

Thanks for your suggestion. Could you elaborate?

Hi Dave,

Have you considered steaming it off?

I am getting ready to re-cap a Boston model GP-193 II. 

The existing bridge cap is rife with failures, but has not lifted (delaminated). 

Does anyone have a method to get the cap glue joint to release from the root without routing/planing or otherwise griding it off?

TIA

I am getting ready to re-cap a Boston model GP-193 II. 

The existing bridge cap is rife with failures, but has not lifted (delaminated). 

Does anyone have a method to get the cap glue joint to release from the root without routing/planing or otherwise griding it off?

TIA

Hello Dave,

I've never delaminated that glue joint as a path toward recapping. Perhaps it can be done, I do not know.

I use a high-quality cordless compact router that rides on runners that straddle the bridge and slide on a masked-off soundboard. It's very tight up in the high treble, so I have to adjust and modify the setup accordingly. Which is not a problem since I designed and build the setup. But I have found this to be the most relatively smooth and effective technique to remove the bulk of a bridge cap inside a piano. I finish with very accurate hand planes that are well-sharpened and adjusted. And, I use a wood sandpaper block that is narrower than the bridge. I bond the sandpaper to a perfectly flat block, rather than hold the paper wrapped around the block. This whole technique is precise and allows me to work right down to where I see that glue layer, which I can sand and scrape away. Knowing how to sharpen and use card scrapers can be useful here. I found them tricky at first as they require some finesse to flatten, sharpen and set a hook effectively (if a hook is desirable). A card scraper can be sharpened and used without a hook for some applications as well. Perhaps you have these and sharpen / use them already. I've really found that piano rebuilding becomes easier after mastering the sharpening and use of woodworking tools - along with a purpose-designed and built workbench with work-holding vices. The store bought ones are either expensive or less-useful. If anyone has not yet experienced rebuilding pianos with a solid, traditional workbench with vises, and an arsenal of traditional woodworking skills, plus some modern woodworking equipment, I'd encourage them to move in that direction. Doing so has changed how I work and improved the quality of my work a lot. You'd think that a workbench with vises has nothing to do with rebuilding a piano. I've constantly found out how useful it is. I can not only shape wood and work wood easily with the tools and the workbench, I can also build jigs and fixtures as I go, whenever I wish to. Things that were once difficult or time-consuming have become simple. And the workbench also aids in the use of power tools such as routers.

I am getting ready to re-cap a Boston model GP-193 II. 

The existing bridge cap is rife with failures, but has not lifted (delaminated). 

Does anyone have a method to get the cap glue joint to release from the root without routing/planing or otherwise griding it off?

TIA

Hello Dave,

I've never delaminated that glue joint as a path toward recapping. Perhaps it can be done, I do not know.

I use a high-quality cordless compact router that rides on runners that straddle the bridge and slide on a masked-off soundboard. It's very tight up in the high treble, so I have to adjust and modify the setup accordingly. Which is not a problem since I designed and build the setup. But I have found this to be the most relatively smooth and effective technique to remove the bulk of a bridge cap inside a piano. I finish with very accurate hand planes that are well-sharpened and adjusted. And, I use a wood sandpaper block that is narrower than the bridge. I bond the sandpaper to a perfectly flat block, rather than hold the paper wrapped around the block. This whole technique is precise and allows me to work right down to where I see that glue layer, which I can sand and scrape away. Knowing how to sharpen and use card scrapers can be useful here. I found them tricky at first as they require some finesse to flatten, sharpen and set a hook effectively (if a hook is desirable). A card scraper can be sharpened and used without a hook for some applications as well. Perhaps you have these and sharpen / use them already. I've really found that piano rebuilding becomes easier after mastering the sharpening and use of woodworking tools - along with a purpose-designed and built workbench with work-holding vices. The store bought ones are either expensive or less-useful. If anyone has not yet experienced rebuilding pianos with a solid, traditional workbench with vises, and an arsenal of traditional woodworking skills, plus some modern woodworking equipment, I'd encourage them to move in that direction. Doing so has changed how I work and improved the quality of my work a lot. You'd think that a workbench with vises has nothing to do with rebuilding a piano. I've constantly found out how useful it is. I can not only shape wood and work wood easily with the tools and the workbench, I can also build jigs and fixtures as I go, whenever I wish to. Things that were once difficult or time-consuming have become simple. And the workbench also aids in the use of power tools such as routers.

I am getting ready to re-cap a Boston model GP-193 II. 

The existing bridge cap is rife with failures, but has not lifted (delaminated). 

Does anyone have a method to get the cap glue joint to release from the root without routing/planing or otherwise griding it off?

TIA

I mentioned dry heat because of the modern glues.  Steam and/or alcohol for older hide glues.

Hello Dave,

I've never delaminated that glue joint as a path toward recapping. Perhaps it can be done, I do not know.

I use a high-quality cordless compact router that rides on runners that straddle the bridge and slide on a masked-off soundboard. It's very tight up in the high treble, so I have to adjust and modify the setup accordingly. Which is not a problem since I designed and build the setup. But I have found this to be the most relatively smooth and effective technique to remove the bulk of a bridge cap inside a piano. I finish with very accurate hand planes that are well-sharpened and adjusted. And, I use a wood sandpaper block that is narrower than the bridge. I bond the sandpaper to a perfectly flat block, rather than hold the paper wrapped around the block. This whole technique is precise and allows me to work right down to where I see that glue layer, which I can sand and scrape away. Knowing how to sharpen and use card scrapers can be useful here. I found them tricky at first as they require some finesse to flatten, sharpen and set a hook effectively (if a hook is desirable). A card scraper can be sharpened and used without a hook for some applications as well. Perhaps you have these and sharpen / use them already. I've really found that piano rebuilding becomes easier after mastering the sharpening and use of woodworking tools - along with a purpose-designed and built workbench with work-holding vices. The store bought ones are either expensive or less-useful. If anyone has not yet experienced rebuilding pianos with a solid, traditional workbench with vises, and an arsenal of traditional woodworking skills, plus some modern woodworking equipment, I'd encourage them to move in that direction. Doing so has changed how I work and improved the quality of my work a lot. You'd think that a workbench with vises has nothing to do with rebuilding a piano. I've constantly found out how useful it is. I can not only shape wood and work wood easily with the tools and the workbench, I can also build jigs and fixtures as I go, whenever I wish to. Things that were once difficult or time-consuming have become simple. And the workbench also aids in the use of power tools such as routers.

I am getting ready to re-cap a Boston model GP-193 II. 

The existing bridge cap is rife with failures, but has not lifted (delaminated). 

Does anyone have a method to get the cap glue joint to release from the root without routing/planing or otherwise griding it off?

TIA

I mentioned dry heat because of the modern glues.  Steam and/or alcohol for older hide glues.

Hello Dave,

I've never delaminated that glue joint as a path toward recapping. Perhaps it can be done, I do not know.

I use a high-quality cordless compact router that rides on runners that straddle the bridge and slide on a masked-off soundboard. It's very tight up in the high treble, so I have to adjust and modify the setup accordingly. Which is not a problem since I designed and build the setup. But I have found this to be the most relatively smooth and effective technique to remove the bulk of a bridge cap inside a piano. I finish with very accurate hand planes that are well-sharpened and adjusted. And, I use a wood sandpaper block that is narrower than the bridge. I bond the sandpaper to a perfectly flat block, rather than hold the paper wrapped around the block. This whole technique is precise and allows me to work right down to where I see that glue layer, which I can sand and scrape away. Knowing how to sharpen and use card scrapers can be useful here. I found them tricky at first as they require some finesse to flatten, sharpen and set a hook effectively (if a hook is desirable). A card scraper can be sharpened and used without a hook for some applications as well. Perhaps you have these and sharpen / use them already. I've really found that piano rebuilding becomes easier after mastering the sharpening and use of woodworking tools - along with a purpose-designed and built workbench with work-holding vices. The store bought ones are either expensive or less-useful. If anyone has not yet experienced rebuilding pianos with a solid, traditional workbench with vises, and an arsenal of traditional woodworking skills, plus some modern woodworking equipment, I'd encourage them to move in that direction. Doing so has changed how I work and improved the quality of my work a lot. You'd think that a workbench with vises has nothing to do with rebuilding a piano. I've constantly found out how useful it is. I can not only shape wood and work wood easily with the tools and the workbench, I can also build jigs and fixtures as I go, whenever I wish to. Things that were once difficult or time-consuming have become simple. And the workbench also aids in the use of power tools such as routers.

I am getting ready to re-cap a Boston model GP-193 II. 

The existing bridge cap is rife with failures, but has not lifted (delaminated). 

Does anyone have a method to get the cap glue joint to release from the root without routing/planing or otherwise griding it off?

TIA

For formaldehyde glues you might have success with acetone but I would try heat first. Use a thin blade or spatula to open up the joint. I have

had to use a 600 watt soldering iron to soften some modern glues.

I mentioned dry heat because of the modern glues.  Steam and/or alcohol for older hide glues.

Hello Dave,

I've never delaminated that glue joint as a path toward recapping. Perhaps it can be done, I do not know.

I use a high-quality cordless compact router that rides on runners that straddle the bridge and slide on a masked-off soundboard. It's very tight up in the high treble, so I have to adjust and modify the setup accordingly. Which is not a problem since I designed and build the setup. But I have found this to be the most relatively smooth and effective technique to remove the bulk of a bridge cap inside a piano. I finish with very accurate hand planes that are well-sharpened and adjusted. And, I use a wood sandpaper block that is narrower than the bridge. I bond the sandpaper to a perfectly flat block, rather than hold the paper wrapped around the block. This whole technique is precise and allows me to work right down to where I see that glue layer, which I can sand and scrape away. Knowing how to sharpen and use card scrapers can be useful here. I found them tricky at first as they require some finesse to flatten, sharpen and set a hook effectively (if a hook is desirable). A card scraper can be sharpened and used without a hook for some applications as well. Perhaps you have these and sharpen / use them already. I've really found that piano rebuilding becomes easier after mastering the sharpening and use of woodworking tools - along with a purpose-designed and built workbench with work-holding vices. The store bought ones are either expensive or less-useful. If anyone has not yet experienced rebuilding pianos with a solid, traditional workbench with vises, and an arsenal of traditional woodworking skills, plus some modern woodworking equipment, I'd encourage them to move in that direction. Doing so has changed how I work and improved the quality of my work a lot. You'd think that a workbench with vises has nothing to do with rebuilding a piano. I've constantly found out how useful it is. I can not only shape wood and work wood easily with the tools and the workbench, I can also build jigs and fixtures as I go, whenever I wish to. Things that were once difficult or time-consuming have become simple. And the workbench also aids in the use of power tools such as routers.

I am getting ready to re-cap a Boston model GP-193 II. 

The existing bridge cap is rife with failures, but has not lifted (delaminated). 

Does anyone have a method to get the cap glue joint to release from the root without routing/planing or otherwise griding it off?

TIA

I mentioned dry heat because of the modern glues.  Steam and/or alcohol for older hide glues.

Hello Dave,

I've never delaminated that glue joint as a path toward recapping. Perhaps it can be done, I do not know.

I use a high-quality cordless compact router that rides on runners that straddle the bridge and slide on a masked-off soundboard. It's very tight up in the high treble, so I have to adjust and modify the setup accordingly. Which is not a problem since I designed and build the setup. But I have found this to be the most relatively smooth and effective technique to remove the bulk of a bridge cap inside a piano. I finish with very accurate hand planes that are well-sharpened and adjusted. And, I use a wood sandpaper block that is narrower than the bridge. I bond the sandpaper to a perfectly flat block, rather than hold the paper wrapped around the block. This whole technique is precise and allows me to work right down to where I see that glue layer, which I can sand and scrape away. Knowing how to sharpen and use card scrapers can be useful here. I found them tricky at first as they require some finesse to flatten, sharpen and set a hook effectively (if a hook is desirable). A card scraper can be sharpened and used without a hook for some applications as well. Perhaps you have these and sharpen / use them already. I've really found that piano rebuilding becomes easier after mastering the sharpening and use of woodworking tools - along with a purpose-designed and built workbench with work-holding vices. The store bought ones are either expensive or less-useful. If anyone has not yet experienced rebuilding pianos with a solid, traditional workbench with vises, and an arsenal of traditional woodworking skills, plus some modern woodworking equipment, I'd encourage them to move in that direction. Doing so has changed how I work and improved the quality of my work a lot. You'd think that a workbench with vises has nothing to do with rebuilding a piano. I've constantly found out how useful it is. I can not only shape wood and work wood easily with the tools and the workbench, I can also build jigs and fixtures as I go, whenever I wish to. Things that were once difficult or time-consuming have become simple. And the workbench also aids in the use of power tools such as routers.

I am getting ready to re-cap a Boston model GP-193 II. 

The existing bridge cap is rife with failures, but has not lifted (delaminated). 

Does anyone have a method to get the cap glue joint to release from the root without routing/planing or otherwise griding it off?

TIA