CAUT

Greetings,

I will soon be installing a two-tank Piano Life-Saver System in a Bosendorfer 225 (ca. 2010). Although I have not seen the beam configuration under the soundboard in this particular Bosendorfer, I expect that the beams are in a "grid" configuration (as opposed to the more common "fan" configuration), like the two other Bosendorfers in which I have installed PLS systems. The "grid" makes fitting in the various components--at the recommended distances from each other--more of a challenge than usual.

If anyone has any experience-born advice on how best to lay out the components, and other tips for working in these relatively tight spaces (I am already armed with a stubby Philips-head screwdriver!), I would very much appreciate hearing about that.

Thanks,

Alan

Greetings,

I will soon be installing a two-tank Piano Life-Saver System in a Bosendorfer 225 (ca. 2010). Although I have not seen the beam configuration under the soundboard in this particular Bosendorfer, I expect that the beams are in a "grid" configuration (as opposed to the more common "fan" configuration), like the two other Bosendorfers in which I have installed PLS systems. The "grid" makes fitting in the various components--at the recommended distances from each other--more of a challenge than usual.

If anyone has any experience-born advice on how best to lay out the components, and other tips for working in these relatively tight spaces (I am already armed with a stubby Philips-head screwdriver!), I would very much appreciate hearing about that.

Thanks,

Alan

Greetings,

I will soon be installing a two-tank Piano Life-Saver System in a Bosendorfer 225 (ca. 2010). Although I have not seen the beam configuration under the soundboard in this particular Bosendorfer, I expect that the beams are in a "grid" configuration (as opposed to the more common "fan" configuration), like the two other Bosendorfers in which I have installed PLS systems. The "grid" makes fitting in the various components--at the recommended distances from each other--more of a challenge than usual.

If anyone has any experience-born advice on how best to lay out the components, and other tips for working in these relatively tight spaces (I am already armed with a stubby Philips-head screwdriver!), I would very much appreciate hearing about that.

Thanks,

Alan

A 90 degree drill attachment ( find a cheap one at any home improvement place, or Milwaukee makes a nice one, but any will work,) and the appropriate nut driver tip, and you can work in any tight space.  Use the lightest screw gun you have, insert hex shaft into it, and installing the screws is a breeze. You will have to remove your hat when under the piano, however.  
I did have to install a unit on a 1960's Mason A recently, that had a grid frame Plus the Tension resonator, and it fit, though the tank had to be mounted in line with the keyboard instead of front to back.  Cheers!

Greetings,

I will soon be installing a two-tank Piano Life-Saver System in a Bosendorfer 225 (ca. 2010). Although I have not seen the beam configuration under the soundboard in this particular Bosendorfer, I expect that the beams are in a "grid" configuration (as opposed to the more common "fan" configuration), like the two other Bosendorfers in which I have installed PLS systems. The "grid" makes fitting in the various components--at the recommended distances from each other--more of a challenge than usual.

If anyone has any experience-born advice on how best to lay out the components, and other tips for working in these relatively tight spaces (I am already armed with a stubby Philips-head screwdriver!), I would very much appreciate hearing about that.

Thanks,

Alan

Greetings,

I will soon be installing a two-tank Piano Life-Saver System in a Bosendorfer 225 (ca. 2010). Although I have not seen the beam configuration under the soundboard in this particular Bosendorfer, I expect that the beams are in a "grid" configuration (as opposed to the more common "fan" configuration), like the two other Bosendorfers in which I have installed PLS systems. The "grid" makes fitting in the various components--at the recommended distances from each other--more of a challenge than usual.

If anyone has any experience-born advice on how best to lay out the components, and other tips for working in these relatively tight spaces (I am already armed with a stubby Philips-head screwdriver!), I would very much appreciate hearing about that.

Thanks,

Alan

Greetings,

I will soon be installing a two-tank Piano Life-Saver System in a Bosendorfer 225 (ca. 2010). Although I have not seen the beam configuration under the soundboard in this particular Bosendorfer, I expect that the beams are in a "grid" configuration (as opposed to the more common "fan" configuration), like the two other Bosendorfers in which I have installed PLS systems. The "grid" makes fitting in the various components--at the recommended distances from each other--more of a challenge than usual.

If anyone has any experience-born advice on how best to lay out the components, and other tips for working in these relatively tight spaces (I am already armed with a stubby Philips-head screwdriver!), I would very much appreciate hearing about that.

Thanks,

Alan

Greetings,

I will soon be installing a two-tank Piano Life-Saver System in a Bosendorfer 225 (ca. 2010). Although I have not seen the beam configuration under the soundboard in this particular Bosendorfer, I expect that the beams are in a "grid" configuration (as opposed to the more common "fan" configuration), like the two other Bosendorfers in which I have installed PLS systems. The "grid" makes fitting in the various components--at the recommended distances from each other--more of a challenge than usual.

If anyone has any experience-born advice on how best to lay out the components, and other tips for working in these relatively tight spaces (I am already armed with a stubby Philips-head screwdriver!), I would very much appreciate hearing about that.

Thanks,

Alan

Greetings,

I will soon be installing a two-tank Piano Life-Saver System in a Bosendorfer 225 (ca. 2010). Although I have not seen the beam configuration under the soundboard in this particular Bosendorfer, I expect that the beams are in a "grid" configuration (as opposed to the more common "fan" configuration), like the two other Bosendorfers in which I have installed PLS systems. The "grid" makes fitting in the various components--at the recommended distances from each other--more of a challenge than usual.

If anyone has any experience-born advice on how best to lay out the components, and other tips for working in these relatively tight spaces (I am already armed with a stubby Philips-head screwdriver!), I would very much appreciate hearing about that.

Thanks,

Alan

My friend and colleague Ed Whitting sent the following, useful response to me personally. Hehas given me permission to share it with the group.

Dear Alan, watch your texts, I will be sending pictures of my tools and, I don't own a stubby Phillips.

If the support beams are painted black I use screws as supplied.  If they are beautifully clear finished spruce I use wire ties to hold everything in place.  The most critical point is the orientation of the humidifier tanks to one another because of the connecting tube.

It is much easier to place tanks on the hanger rods if they are cut to the right length.  I use bolt cutters.

Note: put the plastic rod hangers on the rod, in the right direction before cutting the rod; the bolt cutters deform the rod at the cut point enough to make putting them on later very difficult.

I Use a 1/4" nut driver that has been magnetized for putting in the screws.  Some use a portable drill, I don't.  I also have a magnetized socket and ratchet that gets into tight places.  

Dry fit everything.  I put in the dehumidifiers first, then plan the tanks and humidistat. Plug in the 3 point electrical connector and plug in something on both sides of the humidistat so you know how much room you need for the connected humidistat.

Use the Velcro to hold it in place while you determine if there is enough room to unplug everything: Trial and error.

If using wire ties, mount the dehumidifiers in their plastic keepers. Go around the dehumidifer and beam make it med., tight , cut off the waste rend but leave enough do you can pull it tighter on your next visit.  It takes longer to install this way.

Install the complete system but don't cut the tank connecting hose until everything else is in place.  I put the low water sensor in the 2nd tank; it just seems mechanically correct.

Bring 2 gallons of distilled water

Watch for tool pictures

Hope this helps.

Greetings,

I will soon be installing a two-tank Piano Life-Saver System in a Bosendorfer 225 (ca. 2010). Although I have not seen the beam configuration under the soundboard in this particular Bosendorfer, I expect that the beams are in a "grid" configuration (as opposed to the more common "fan" configuration), like the two other Bosendorfers in which I have installed PLS systems. The "grid" makes fitting in the various components--at the recommended distances from each other--more of a challenge than usual.

If anyone has any experience-born advice on how best to lay out the components, and other tips for working in these relatively tight spaces (I am already armed with a stubby Philips-head screwdriver!), I would very much appreciate hearing about that.

Thanks,

Alan

regardless of what type of water you use it's very important to use the pad treatment. Using distilled water without the pad treatment can cause the system to not function correctly. Distilled water will not conduct electricity appropriately

My friend and colleague Ed Whitting sent the following, useful response to me personally. Hehas given me permission to share it with the group.

Dear Alan, watch your texts, I will be sending pictures of my tools and, I don't own a stubby Phillips.

If the support beams are painted black I use screws as supplied.  If they are beautifully clear finished spruce I use wire ties to hold everything in place.  The most critical point is the orientation of the humidifier tanks to one another because of the connecting tube.

It is much easier to place tanks on the hanger rods if they are cut to the right length.  I use bolt cutters.

Note: put the plastic rod hangers on the rod, in the right direction before cutting the rod; the bolt cutters deform the rod at the cut point enough to make putting them on later very difficult.

I Use a 1/4" nut driver that has been magnetized for putting in the screws.  Some use a portable drill, I don't.  I also have a magnetized socket and ratchet that gets into tight places.  

Dry fit everything.  I put in the dehumidifiers first, then plan the tanks and humidistat. Plug in the 3 point electrical connector and plug in something on both sides of the humidistat so you know how much room you need for the connected humidistat.

Use the Velcro to hold it in place while you determine if there is enough room to unplug everything: Trial and error.

If using wire ties, mount the dehumidifiers in their plastic keepers. Go around the dehumidifer and beam make it med., tight , cut off the waste rend but leave enough do you can pull it tighter on your next visit.  It takes longer to install this way.

Install the complete system but don't cut the tank connecting hose until everything else is in place.  I put the low water sensor in the 2nd tank; it just seems mechanically correct.

Bring 2 gallons of distilled water

Watch for tool pictures

Hope this helps.

Greetings,

I will soon be installing a two-tank Piano Life-Saver System in a Bosendorfer 225 (ca. 2010). Although I have not seen the beam configuration under the soundboard in this particular Bosendorfer, I expect that the beams are in a "grid" configuration (as opposed to the more common "fan" configuration), like the two other Bosendorfers in which I have installed PLS systems. The "grid" makes fitting in the various components--at the recommended distances from each other--more of a challenge than usual.

If anyone has any experience-born advice on how best to lay out the components, and other tips for working in these relatively tight spaces (I am already armed with a stubby Philips-head screwdriver!), I would very much appreciate hearing about that.

Thanks,

Alan

Good point, Garret. I followed up with Ed about this one, and he said that he only uses distilled water for the initial installation. After that, normal tap water and the PLSS juice.

regardless of what type of water you use it's very important to use the pad treatment. Using distilled water without the pad treatment can cause the system to not function correctly. Distilled water will not conduct electricity appropriately

My friend and colleague Ed Whitting sent the following, useful response to me personally. Hehas given me permission to share it with the group.

Dear Alan, watch your texts, I will be sending pictures of my tools and, I don't own a stubby Phillips.

If the support beams are painted black I use screws as supplied.  If they are beautifully clear finished spruce I use wire ties to hold everything in place.  The most critical point is the orientation of the humidifier tanks to one another because of the connecting tube.

It is much easier to place tanks on the hanger rods if they are cut to the right length.  I use bolt cutters.

Note: put the plastic rod hangers on the rod, in the right direction before cutting the rod; the bolt cutters deform the rod at the cut point enough to make putting them on later very difficult.

I Use a 1/4" nut driver that has been magnetized for putting in the screws.  Some use a portable drill, I don't.  I also have a magnetized socket and ratchet that gets into tight places.  

Dry fit everything.  I put in the dehumidifiers first, then plan the tanks and humidistat. Plug in the 3 point electrical connector and plug in something on both sides of the humidistat so you know how much room you need for the connected humidistat.

Use the Velcro to hold it in place while you determine if there is enough room to unplug everything: Trial and error.

If using wire ties, mount the dehumidifiers in their plastic keepers. Go around the dehumidifer and beam make it med., tight , cut off the waste rend but leave enough do you can pull it tighter on your next visit.  It takes longer to install this way.

Install the complete system but don't cut the tank connecting hose until everything else is in place.  I put the low water sensor in the 2nd tank; it just seems mechanically correct.

Bring 2 gallons of distilled water

Watch for tool pictures

Hope this helps.

Greetings,

I will soon be installing a two-tank Piano Life-Saver System in a Bosendorfer 225 (ca. 2010). Although I have not seen the beam configuration under the soundboard in this particular Bosendorfer, I expect that the beams are in a "grid" configuration (as opposed to the more common "fan" configuration), like the two other Bosendorfers in which I have installed PLS systems. The "grid" makes fitting in the various components--at the recommended distances from each other--more of a challenge than usual.

If anyone has any experience-born advice on how best to lay out the components, and other tips for working in these relatively tight spaces (I am already armed with a stubby Philips-head screwdriver!), I would very much appreciate hearing about that.

Thanks,

Alan

Good point, Garret. I followed up with Ed about this one, and he said that he only uses distilled water for the initial installation. After that, normal tap water and the PLSS juice.

regardless of what type of water you use it's very important to use the pad treatment. Using distilled water without the pad treatment can cause the system to not function correctly. Distilled water will not conduct electricity appropriately

My friend and colleague Ed Whitting sent the following, useful response to me personally. Hehas given me permission to share it with the group.

Dear Alan, watch your texts, I will be sending pictures of my tools and, I don't own a stubby Phillips.

If the support beams are painted black I use screws as supplied.  If they are beautifully clear finished spruce I use wire ties to hold everything in place.  The most critical point is the orientation of the humidifier tanks to one another because of the connecting tube.

It is much easier to place tanks on the hanger rods if they are cut to the right length.  I use bolt cutters.

Note: put the plastic rod hangers on the rod, in the right direction before cutting the rod; the bolt cutters deform the rod at the cut point enough to make putting them on later very difficult.

I Use a 1/4" nut driver that has been magnetized for putting in the screws.  Some use a portable drill, I don't.  I also have a magnetized socket and ratchet that gets into tight places.  

Dry fit everything.  I put in the dehumidifiers first, then plan the tanks and humidistat. Plug in the 3 point electrical connector and plug in something on both sides of the humidistat so you know how much room you need for the connected humidistat.

Use the Velcro to hold it in place while you determine if there is enough room to unplug everything: Trial and error.

If using wire ties, mount the dehumidifiers in their plastic keepers. Go around the dehumidifer and beam make it med., tight , cut off the waste rend but leave enough do you can pull it tighter on your next visit.  It takes longer to install this way.

Install the complete system but don't cut the tank connecting hose until everything else is in place.  I put the low water sensor in the 2nd tank; it just seems mechanically correct.

Bring 2 gallons of distilled water

Watch for tool pictures

Hope this helps.

Greetings,

I will soon be installing a two-tank Piano Life-Saver System in a Bosendorfer 225 (ca. 2010). Although I have not seen the beam configuration under the soundboard in this particular Bosendorfer, I expect that the beams are in a "grid" configuration (as opposed to the more common "fan" configuration), like the two other Bosendorfers in which I have installed PLS systems. The "grid" makes fitting in the various components--at the recommended distances from each other--more of a challenge than usual.

If anyone has any experience-born advice on how best to lay out the components, and other tips for working in these relatively tight spaces (I am already armed with a stubby Philips-head screwdriver!), I would very much appreciate hearing about that.

Thanks,

Alan