My friend and colleague Ed Whitting sent the following, useful response to me personally. Hehas given me permission to share it with the group.
Dear Alan, watch your texts, I will be sending pictures of my tools and, I don't own a stubby Phillips.
If the support beams are painted black I use screws as supplied. If they are beautifully clear finished spruce I use wire ties to hold everything in place. The most critical point is the orientation of the humidifier tanks to one another because of the connecting tube.
It is much easier to place tanks on the hanger rods if they are cut to the right length. I use bolt cutters.
Note: put the plastic rod hangers on the rod, in the right direction before cutting the rod; the bolt cutters deform the rod at the cut point enough to make putting them on later very difficult.
I Use a 1/4" nut driver that has been magnetized for putting in the screws. Some use a portable drill, I don't. I also have a magnetized socket and ratchet that gets into tight places.
Dry fit everything. I put in the dehumidifiers first, then plan the tanks and humidistat. Plug in the 3 point electrical connector and plug in something on both sides of the humidistat so you know how much room you need for the connected humidistat.
Use the Velcro to hold it in place while you determine if there is enough room to unplug everything: Trial and error.
If using wire ties, mount the dehumidifiers in their plastic keepers. Go around the dehumidifer and beam make it med., tight , cut off the waste rend but leave enough do you can pull it tighter on your next visit. It takes longer to install this way.
Install the complete system but don't cut the tank connecting hose until everything else is in place. I put the low water sensor in the 2nd tank; it just seems mechanically correct.
Bring 2 gallons of distilled water
Watch for tool pictures
Hope this helps.
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Alan Eder, RPT
Herb Alpert School of Music
California Institute of the Arts
Valencia, CA
661.904.6483
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Original Message:
Sent: 11-11-2025 14:13
From: James Kelly
Subject: installing a two-tank PLSS on a Bosendorfer model 225
When all else fails call Piano Life Saver/ aka Dampp-Chaser . I have done it from the field and they helped with some very challenging installs especially in verticals. The schematic diagrams are probably a few years old by now but they are great to have. You should probably consider an undercover but make sure there are no pinched fill tubes . It helps to have some good pillows and an auto creeper as well as good lighting. Allow about 5 hours 3 for the install 2 for the nap
You are right ... Melanie and all of the staff at Brooks LTD are great
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James Kelly
Owner- Fur Elise Piano Service
Pawleys Island SC
(843) 325-4357
Original Message:
Sent: 11-11-2025 09:32
From: Alan Eder
Subject: installing a two-tank PLSS on a Bosendorfer model 225
Melanie,
You are a gem, and a rare one at that. What in the world would we ever do without you?!?! (Banish the thought…)
With appreciation,
Alan
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Alan Eder, RPT
Herb Alpert School of Music
California Institute of the Arts
Valencia, CA
661.904.6483
Original Message:
Sent: 11-11-2025 09:17
From: Melanie Brooks
Subject: installing a two-tank PLSS on a Bosendorfer model 225
Hi Alan, I've attached Dampp Chaser's recommend installation Schematics for "Grid Patterned Beams. I believe the Double tank system is necessary in most of these situations as the two tanks are smaller in size and can be installed between the beams.
Melanie
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Melanie Brooks
Brooks, Ltd. Piano Products LLC
Uncasville CT
(860) 848-6605
Original Message:
Sent: 11-10-2025 07:50
From: Alan Eder
Subject: installing a two-tank PLSS on a Bosendorfer model 225
Greetings,
I will soon be installing a two-tank Piano Life-Saver System in a Bosendorfer 225 (ca. 2010). Although I have not seen the beam configuration under the soundboard in this particular Bosendorfer, I expect that the beams are in a "grid" configuration (as opposed to the more common "fan" configuration), like the two other Bosendorfers in which I have installed PLS systems. The "grid" makes fitting in the various components--at the recommended distances from each other--more of a challenge than usual.
If anyone has any experience-born advice on how best to lay out the components, and other tips for working in these relatively tight spaces (I am already armed with a stubby Philips-head screwdriver!), I would very much appreciate hearing about that.
Thanks,
Alan
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Alan Eder, RPT
Herb Alpert School of Music
California Institute of the Arts
Valencia, CA
661.904.6483
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