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Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

  • 1.  Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Member
    Posted 9 days ago

    Hey everyone,

    I've been having some real trouble with tuning stability and could really use some insight from the seasoned techs here. My unisons sound fine at first but start drifting within minutes and when I check an hour later, two hours later, or the next morning, with an ETD, many notes (especially in the tenor range) have crept up by as much as 1.5 cents.

    Here's what I've tried - all the usual suspects, I think:

    1. Go sharp, slowly pull down to pitch. Lever off.

    2. Go sharp, pull down slightly below target, then ease back up to reduce pin twist. Lever off.

    3. Both of the above again, but with a quicker, more decisive motion to minimize twist. Lever off.

    4. Tried the "#2 + gentle pin bend" technique - pushing the lever slightly to load the non-speaking length. Lever off.

    5. Variations of all the above with more aggressive test blows. Lever off. (I'm not normally a key-pounder, but I'm glad to find that the pitch does not immediately jump after test blows.)

    To rule out the piano itself, I've tried this on a different upright and saw the same behavior. Ambient temperature and humidity are relatively stable within the day.

    Has anyone else measured their strings an hour after tuning and seen them go sharp like this? What might I be doing that's causing this drift over time? What's interesting to me is that the test blows don't change the pitch. It is a gradual shift over time. It's been frustrating, since I'm left knowing that none of my tunings will actually hold.

    For context, I've been tuning for about 3 months, squeezing in up to 3 pianos a week while working full-time in a totally different field.

    Any insight (or reality checks!) would be greatly appreciated.



    ------------------------------
    Andrew Young
    San Diego CA
    ------------------------------



  • 2.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 9 days ago
    Hi Andrew

    In addition to setting the string by using test blows, you also need to set the pin. After achieving a good unison, wiggle the tuning hammer while it’s on the pin. Just move it back and forth a little. That takes the tension off the pin, and will stabilize it.

    Wim.
    Sent from my iPhone




  • 3.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Member
    Posted 9 days ago

    Yes, I try to do this. Some pins tend to be way more mushy than others. On some particular pins, you just can't get rid of the mush no matter what you do. Resetting the foot remains just as mushy. In these case, do you just do what you can to get it the unison and then move on?



    ------------------------------
    Andrew Young
    San Diego CA
    ------------------------------



  • 4.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 9 days ago

    Andrew

    The first thing you learn in this business is how to set a unison. And, unfortunately, the last thing you'll learn is learning is how to tune a unison.  Lot of good advice that has already been offered on this thread.  I echo most of the remarks.  s.

    All of that said, and reading between the lines of your thread,  you cannot get a stable tuning (with solid unisons) when the piano is  too far off  concert pitch.  If you are dealing with pianos that are at least 10c off pitch ( sharp or flat), a quick pitch adjustment is needed first. Then once the tension and pitch is back in the ballpark, then you can proceed with the fine tuning.

    Additionally, new tuners have a tendency to overpull their unisons dramatically. Then they try to overshoot and over react by the lowering of the pitch more than is needed. The combine added and depletion of the tension on any unison has a compounding affect. Thus, even though you think you are stabilizing the unison, you've actually introduced a lot of new tension to that area. And that usually translates to instability.

    The tuning of a unison is an intimate process. Knowing the feeling of exact pin and string movement is something that takes time to master. Believe me! 

     

    Can't say enough of the following:

    Hammer position - 2 o'clock is best

    Gaining a good feel and understanding of pin movement inside the pinblock, is essential. I feel for the little click, which tells me I've physically moved the base of the tuning pin.

    Gaining a feel of the spring effect of the string pulling against the tuning pin/ and contact points. After you've put the string where you want it, then wiggling the tuning pin slightly back and forth will show if the tuning and string are happy in the new position. If they aren't, unisons will fall out quickly.

    And, lastly, a good tuning hammer.  The new carbon fiber tuning hammers are essential tools of the trade. They are costly, but a good hammer will save you time and money in the long run.  On occasion, I've had to resort to one of my old standby tuning hammers.  The feel is horrible and it's much more difficult get good stability. Good tuning hammers will gives the tuner the ability to do micro movements with total control.  That allows for better pin/string stability.

    Good luck in your journey. 

     

    Tom Servinsky 

    Registered Piano Technician

    Concert Artist Piano Technician

    Jazz Pianist for events

    tompiano@tomservinsky.com

    772 221 1011 office

    772 260 7110 cell

     






  • 5.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 9 days ago

    Thank you for your excellent post, Tom!.

    You many great points, and you make so well. I will ad only this; in addition to better control and speed, a modern, stiff, lightweight tuning lever, with head/tip length and angle plus overall lever length to one's liking will help conserve your most valuable tool, YOUR BODY (also not to be found in Schaff's catalog!).



    ------------------------------
    Alan Eder, RPT
    Herb Alpert School of Music
    California Institute of the Arts
    Valencia, CA
    661.904.6483
    ------------------------------



  • 6.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 9 days ago

    Hi Andrew:

    Here are a few things I would try.  First, make sure the windows and doors are shut while you're tuning.  If there's any air blowing around the piano, it could drift.  No ceiling fans either.  As far as using the tuning lever, I try to put the lever as close to parallel to the string as possible.  Some may disagree, but I was given this advice when I first started tuning, and it has served me well, even though it might be un-ergonomic.  Especially where the piano has agraffes.  I use a 2:00 position in the treble area.

    As a new tuner, the technique to master is to make your movement of the tuning pin as small as possible, and yet actually turn the pin in the pinblock.  Yes, also, as Wim suggests, test the pitch by nudging the lever a bit in either direction to see if there's a tendency to drift sharp or flat.  When you have a very tight pin, this is even more challenging because the pin will easily twist and yet not move in the pinblock.  Having a very light and stiff tuning hammer helps because you can feel it move.  I use a Charles Faulk, but the Fujan hammer is also quite popular.  Yeah, kinda pricy, but (don't repeat me here) you can find Chynese knockoffs on Fl(eabay) that are much cheaper but do work.  As someone I read long ago, make the last tiny bit of pressure to the upside to create stability.  If you push the lever flat to get in tune, the section of wire that is connected to the tuning pin will be flatter than the rest of the string.  Then later the wire can move and affect the tuning.  If your last move is to the upside, the wire will be more equally tensioned everywhere.  

    Over time you'll figure things out.  Try various techniques and see what works.  I'm sure there will be others who will suggest their tips and tricks.  If you have a good tuning app/ETD, it will help you see what you're doing.  I use Pianoscope.

    Good luck.

    Paul



    ------------------------------
    Paul McCloud, RPT
    Accutone Piano Service
    www.AccutonePianoService.com
    pavadasa@gmail.com
    ------------------------------



  • 7.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 9 days ago
    When you say that notes have crept up by 1.5 cents, do you mean an individual string of the unison has moved and now the unison sounds bad? Or have all the strings of the unison moved more or less together?






  • 8.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Member
    Posted 9 days ago

    All the strings of the unison have moved. Might I be underestimating how much even a tiny bit of temp and humidity can change the pitch?



    ------------------------------
    Andrew Young
    San Diego CA
    ------------------------------



  • 9.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 9 days ago
    In my opinion, that is probably a symptom of the soundboard settling in response to the changes you made, or simply shifts in temperature and humidity. Especially if it's most pronounced around the break(s). There is little you can do about this unless you're familiar with the quirks of this particular instrument in a given season.





  • 10.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 9 days ago
    Andrew

    When I lived in Hawaii, I did an experiment with a U1. I measured the pitch of all the A's one day and measured them again 24 hours later. This piano had been tuned by me every 6 months for at least 10 years, so it was very stable. All of them, with the exception of one note, drifted. In the middle octave they only drifted less than 1 cent, but the ones on the outer octaves drifted up to 1.5 cents. In other words, some drift is "normal". But I would still make sure you set the pins, as I suggested. 

    Wim





  • 11.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Posted 9 days ago
    For tuning lever at the moment the Chinese market has collapsed so there are bargains - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007996918415.html


    The other piece of advice is having tuned it not to measure it with the machine - listen to it. Is the sound happy within itself? For unison checking mute one of the three strings in turn and see if there's one out of the three that's slipped. You can then tune that by ear.

    Once one has tuned, dispense with the machine. It will only drive you crazy. 

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4RaEqOHr_k is an example of going through the instrument to see what the ear says - an app (which I don't use for tuning) is pictured in the video just so that you can decide if my ear's right.

    Perhaps https://youtu.be/ElhXykS4Hl0 might be among the harshest of conditions in which one can be challenged to be tuning with https://youtu.be/xhdNBBtsFn4 on test and https://youtu.be/_EG0ku9veCI was the result of that tuning in performance later that night in a very different temperature.

    On https://youtu.be/hMxMH10Z5PY there were good examples of considering how to set the pins. On a subsequent visit a year later this tuning had been remarkably stable and it's since stayed that way.

    Andrew - it might not be that all these videos give instances common to your experience but bearing in mind the public source of knowledge that fora like this can supply, your thread here may well be of interest to others finding the same sort of challenges.

    Perhaps also experience depends on the nature of the instrument. A fun one for me was https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_52SJEgY2YU which I tuned in a freezing cold venue the day before, came in the next day and found that nothing had slipped, and for the performance the heating was turned on. More than that, the orchestra had walked out of the morning rehearsal on account of complaint about the cold. On the video you can tell me if you can hear any mistuning despite the significantly higher temperature.

    Best wishes

    David P


    --
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    David Pinnegar, B.Sc., A.R.C.S.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
    +44 7868385643





  • 12.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Member
    Posted 9 days ago

    Thanks Paul. My tuning levers is one of those beginner ones and is pretty darn heavy. Hard to justify more tools when I'm not making a single dollar at the moment but I can see how a good hammer can make the biggest difference.



    ------------------------------
    Andrew Young
    San Diego CA
    ------------------------------



  • 13.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 9 days ago

    If the unisons shift together in pitch, the cause is an overall change in tension on the instrument, most likely due to humidity change, but possibly to due to a piano that is entirely above or below pitch to start with (although your  ETD will usually compensate).

    If the unisons go out, then it is tuning technique and/or instrument limitations/defects, such as overtight pins, or a combination of the two. I spend a full 90 minutes or more on almost every tuning, and of course concert tunings. This includes a final once-over at very fine tuning or concert mode, although I rely strongly on my ear and a very quiet environment for the final pass, as well as testing the middle string with the left only and then the right and then all three until I get stable unison purity. Sometimes a light impact-style blow is helpful in preventing a tiny bit of drift.

    Unisons are far more important than pitch or interval perfection. If the latter change by a cent or even more, it is usually unnoticeable to even professional artists, in part because the change is all sharp or all flat, even if not totally uniform. When my unisons are pretty much perfectly pure and stable, I get some great compliments from fine artists, regardless of small shifts in pitch between tuning and performance time.

    Hope that's helpful. 



    ------------------------------
    Paul Larudee RPT
    El Cerrito CA
    (510) 418-4485
    ------------------------------



  • 14.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Posted 9 days ago
    There are a few things involved here.

    Essentially you're acting against a spring with friction points and held by friction.

    When pulling up one should go enough above pitch not to need pushing down. Just enough for the spring to pull it back into position and check by micro movements that that's where it wants to be.

    One must also move the whole string, not the section nearest the pin first

    Often friction on the bearing felt, and at the agraffes is killing to stability. If I find movements not transferring into changes of pitch I use Prolube on the bearing felts and agraffes.

    In my opinion apps on phones aren't a good idea as there's lag in the dynamics of moving the pin and that movement shown on the app through the pitch change. Better is the TLA CTS5 from www.tuning-set.de which is a real time phase comparator. If you're relying on a machine to indicate you want something indicating in real time, and not showing the pitch change after you've moved through the critical point and past it.

    From memory star teacher Maggie Jusiel has good videos on YouTube. Follow her. She categorises tuning into four types with tight pins, wobbly pins and string friction effects and covers the sort of techniques you need.

    Whilst Parallel lever and 2 o'clock positions are a good standard rule, there can be occasions where with wobbly pins a backwards forwards feel is helpful and the theoretical worst 3 o'clock position has its use in dropping the string back to where it wants to be. Not all movement is rotational. It's also important to use a lever with shortest bit length so as to avoid vertical wobbling leverage as much as possible and likewise a low angle such as 5 degrees for the same reason to get one's applying forces as much at right angles to the pin as possible.

    Paul's advice on temperature is also vital. Are you opening up the piano fully? Has it been under a cover and closed up only to be shocked by your appearance with a tuning hammer opening it up? I had this problem tuning an air conditioned instrument in the heat of a Greek summer afternoon and the problem was solved by opening the lid only as much as necessary to insert tools and keep the instrument covered as much as possible. 

    Best wishes

    David P


    --
    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
    David Pinnegar, B.Sc., A.R.C.S.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
    +44 7868385643





  • 15.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Member
    Posted 9 days ago

    Hi David, et. al. I've struck out a line in my original post as I was exaggerating (as I tend to do, to my detriment) when I said "minutes later". It is usually about an hour or two later, maybe the next morning when I take the next measurement of the handful of notes that I have tuned. In addition, when I measure the notes, I measure each individual string separately since I find that devices tend to be off by a few tenths of a cent when more than one string is involved. I also make sure the device is in exactly the same place as the original measurement since I've learned that that also affects the measurements.

    To answer your questions, no, I've been doing these experiments on my project piano that is completely open all the time. Windows are sometimes open.

    What's interesting is that I did a measurement this morning around 9am, things were +1.3 cents. I did another measurement just now (4pm) and to my surprise, it has gone back down to where I expected it to be. Some strings even -0.1c. Some unisons were off by tenths. 

    This leads me to believe that even in San Diego where it is always a comfortable 72 degrees year round (joking), that the day-night swings can affect the pitch. Not only that but there seems to be some hours delay before the pitch is affected. Like the delay in tides by the gravity of the moon, if you will.

    Is there any validation to my hypothesis?



    ------------------------------
    Andrew Young
    San Diego CA
    ------------------------------



  • 16.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 9 days ago

    I had a store a short time and turned the heat way down on the days I was not there. Came in and every piano was sharp, heated the room up and they gradually came back in tune.



    ------------------------------
    Larry Messerly, RPT
    Bringing Harmony to Homes
    www.lacrossepianotuning.com
    ljmesserly@gmail.com
    928-899-7292
    ------------------------------



  • 17.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 9 days ago
    Yes. Generally speaking pianos react very quickly to changes in temperature (the metal of the wire does not take long to expand our contact), and relatively slowly to changes in humidity. Sudden drafts, sun exposure, or blasts from AC/heat can change the pitch of the piano by will over a cent in minutes.





  • 18.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 9 days ago

    For a fun test. Take a lower plain wire tricord and tune it to the best of your ability. Take your measurements if you have an ETD. Rub your finger up and down the left string a couple of times and see how the pitch changes. Wait awhile and see it go back.



    ------------------------------
    Larry Messerly, RPT
    Bringing Harmony to Homes
    www.lacrossepianotuning.com
    ljmesserly@gmail.com
    928-899-7292
    ------------------------------



  • 19.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Member
    Posted 9 days ago

    When you measure strings individually, it's not the device that is off...when you mute neighboring strings in a unison you are changing the way the note as a whole resonates (by muting strings). Doing so will change the frequency of the string you are measuring. Once you remove the mutes, the strings go back to normal...meaning, they go back to what they were vibrating at before you put mutes in.

    This is called Weinrich Drift.

    https://howtotunepianos.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Weinreich-Drift-Paper.pdf



    ------------------------------
    Cobrun Sells
    cobrun94@yahoo.com
    ------------------------------



  • 20.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Posted 9 days ago
    Cobrun - yes - really important.

    Very often in my experience Weinrich is most apparent in top treble and which is why when tuning with machine I set for maximum stretch up there - otherwise the combination in the note sounds flat. 

    In a series of quick and dirty real life tuning videos I covered a not-favourite instrument that on more than one occasion has played games with me as the coils are too high on the pins - it's not a Steinway refurbished instrument and that video might give an idea of real world issues we cope with https://youtu.be/9DmcV-_FHbk?t=309

    Best wishes

    David P


    --
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    David Pinnegar, B.Sc., A.R.C.S.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
    +44 7868385643





  • 21.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Member
    Posted 9 days ago

    Cobrun, that is absolutely fascinating and is something I will need to keep in my back pocket for later! For the moment, I'm trying to reduce the number of variables when taking the measurements which is why I'm choosing to only measure one string of each note and muting the rest -- thereby unknowingly, and thankfully, avoiding the Weinrich Drift.



    ------------------------------
    Andrew Young
    San Diego CA
    ------------------------------



  • 22.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Posted 8 days ago
    Andrew - one string of each note is exactly where differences excel 

    It's so important to listen and not to measure

    Measuring will send you nuts. It's a guide, not a god.

    Best wishes 

    David P

    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
    David Pinnegar, B.Sc., A.R.C.S.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
    +44 7868385643





  • 23.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Member
    Posted 8 days ago
    Just remember that the goal is for non-speaking lengths to be at slightly higher tension than the speaking lengths at rest. This equates to the non-speaking lengths being equi-tension to speaking lengths at FFF attack moment.

    To get this I usually pull a tuning pin foot (part of pin grabbing in pinblock) slightly sharp, then I ease the pin tip counter-clockwise and bend towards speaking length slightly (not enough to move pin foot), enough to allow string to slide flatter to in-tune. Once I release the lever the pin automatically returns clockwise/away from speaking length raising the tension of the upper non-speaking length.




    Cobrun Sells
    505.402.6481
    cobrun94@yahoo.com





  • 24.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 9 days ago

    Andrew --

    I agree with everything everyone here has already said. The one thing I would add is to invest in a temperature/humidity gauge. With that you can see how your tunings drift relative to how the temperature and humidity changes. Changes in humidity will cause the most change in tunings. As I tell my customers, the piano, (tuning), is literally breathing with the weather. 

    Here is the one I use. It's an AcuRite Humidity Meter Hygrometer and Indoor Digital Thermometer with Temperature Gauge and Humidity Gauge. Only $16.49 on Amazon. AND... you can calibrate it. 

    https://a.co/d/dJhGais 

    Every time I service a customers piano I document both temperature and humidity. If I find the piano way out of tune, and I compare the humidity reading from the last time I was there to the current reading, if there is a large difference I know that it's the humidity that caused the tuning to go out. Not anything I missed. 

    * While calibrating the hygrometer is easy, and probably a good thing to do, (I calibrate mine about once a year), what you are concerned with is not the actual humidity so much as the change from one reading to the next. 

    Also, take the leap and invest in a more professional hammer. It's a lifetime investment and will allow you to learn a better touch and feel of the pin while tuning. That really is the hardest part of tuning to learn, and it takes hundreds of tunings for you to come close to mastering it. Especially since every piano you meet is going to feel different. Don't give up. Practice, practice, practice. 



    ------------------------------
    Geoff Sykes, RPT
    Los Angeles CA
    ------------------------------



  • 25.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Member
    Posted 9 days ago

    Geoff. Wow, that's such a great idea. I think what I might do is use this to take measurements throughout the day of both the hygrometer and the string pitch to see what the patterns are. It might be a very cool experiment and could be eye opening for me to understand how much of the instability is because of the environment or because of my technique.

    My home doesn't fluctuate all that much. But I actually don't know for sure and this exercise could put that doubt to rest.



    ------------------------------
    Andrew Young
    San Diego CA
    ------------------------------



  • 26.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 9 days ago

    Another important skill is how to lower pitch when entire piano, section or individual note is sharp:  tune slightly below pitch and pull just up to pitch. This is the reverse of normal pin setting procedure.



    ------------------------------
    Parker Leigh RPT
    Winchester VA
    (540) 722-3865
    ------------------------------



  • 27.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 9 days ago

    Andrew, you don't say how flat these pianos were before you started. Especially if they were very flat, then the humidity went up. 

    1.5 BEATS is a lot, 1.5 cents is not. Especially since it's not bad unisons.



    ------------------------------
    Cindy Strehlow, RPT
    Urbana, IL
    ------------------------------



  • 28.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 9 days ago

    Cindy beat me to it. Depending on how far away from A-440 the piano was initially, do expect some movement. I remember one gentleman I knew say that if the piano is more than 2¢ flat, he does a second pass. While that's a little extreme to my thinking, he was absolutely convinced of it. There's an old axiom that says you can't tune an out-of-tune piano, so it's quite possible that you may need to tune it twice to get it stable.

    I always tell my students that loud test blows do not create stability, but they do expose instability. Your tuning lever technique plays the main role in how stable your tunings are, and if it's not correct, a test blow will most likely expose it. (This is why some tuners are incredibly stable but relatively quiet as they work.)

    For most pianos, you want to place your lever in the 12 o'clock position, that is, in line with the string. This will give you the best balance between moving the pin and moving the pitch of the string. However, on some pianos that just won't work. Some pianos need your tuning lever to be more towards the 3 o'clock position, which will move the pin before the pitch moves. Only a few need your tuning lever position to be more towards the 9 o'clock position, which will move the pitch before the pin moves. 

    At the end of the day, it's going to come down to you experimenting to find out what works for that particular piano. Each piano is different. It's just part of the job. 

    Also, I know the Chinese carbon-fiber knockoff tuning levers are cheap, but the ones I've seen are not worth it. The head angle is too small for good clearance on some pianos and the quality varies. I strongly recommend you buy an American made tuning lever. The quality is there, and this will be a once-in-a-lifetime purchase. If finances are a concern, I've seen good results with the Levitan lever that Schaff sells. Last I looked, $175 wholesale. Personally, I use a Fujan and my other technician uses a Charles Faulk. All three are good options. 



    ------------------------------
    Benjamin Sanchez, RPT
    Piano Technician / Artisan
    (256) 947-9999
    www.professional-piano-services.com
    www.FromZeroToSixFiguresBook.com
    ------------------------------



  • 29.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Member
    Posted 9 days ago

    Cindy and Benjamin, my pianos started pretty much at 440 before I started taking measurements. I've been tuning the two pianos that I have at home for practice on those days when I am not able to see a client. This is when I started to notice that the pitch shifted when I would come back an hour later. All of the strings would have gone up. Some more than others but generally, the trend was up. Then, yesterday, I came back to measure in the evening and things had come back down. My current hypothesis is that it is related to the highs and lows of the day. But I'm going to take a more scientific approach to be sure.

    When things settled back down in the evening, they didn't all settle evenly. Some unisons were a little off, probably not something that would bother a customer but it absolutely bothered me!



    ------------------------------
    Andrew Young
    San Diego CA
    ------------------------------



  • 30.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Member
    Posted 9 days ago

    One question. You say "experimenting to find out what works for that particular piano". I do hear this a lot and it makes sense that ever piano is different but when I'm at a client's home, I don't have an hour to figure out if it's pitch will have drifted within that time -- and the client probably wants me out of the home too! I just have to do my best and go. How would you respond to that?



    ------------------------------
    Andrew Young
    San Diego CA
    ------------------------------



  • 31.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 8 days ago

    Hi Andrew,

    When I say experimenting to find what works on that particular piano, I mean experimenting with different tuning techniques. You could also run specific experiments on the instrument, humidity, etc., but most of the time we don't have that opportunity.

    Some pianos respond very well to certain techniques and horribly to others. You'll usually know after a few notes what will work on this piano. I remember seeing one Yamaha C3 that would respond exceptionally well to tuning at a 12 o'clock angle, but it absolutely wouldn't work if the angle was beyond 10:30 or 1:30. Other C3's I've worked on were fine out to a 3 o'clock angle. Every piano is different. 

    This experimenting can and should be done in the first five minutes of your tuning. Only on rare occasions will you have to use vastly differently techniques within the same piano, but it does happen. Most of the time, when you isolate what works, it will work across the scale. The more pianos you see, the easier it will be for your brain to figure out exactly what this particular instrument needs. This is a natural part of the learning process. Hope this helps!



    ------------------------------
    Benjamin Sanchez, RPT
    Piano Technician / Artisan
    (256) 947-9999
    www.professional-piano-services.com
    www.FromZeroToSixFiguresBook.com
    ------------------------------



  • 32.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 8 days ago
    Benjamin's opinion may differ from mine but: you can experiment very quickly with test blows.  Ideally we'd like to be able to tune the note while playing at a moderate volume, then when we think we're done, give it a fairly hard test blow, and have the note not move at all.

    If it does move with the test blow, that's a sign that maybe we could be doing something better with how we manipulate the lever.  Perhaps a different angle, more or less intentional flex (some people try to avoid it entirely, but it can be useful), changing whether our final motion is from above or below, etc..





  • 33.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 9 days ago

    Andrew,

    I have tuned for 50+ years and my tunings seem to be stable, so I will allow myself to give opinions, you decide if this qualified as advice.

    Pianos go up and down in pitch constantly.  On major pitch raises I try to leave the pitch slightly over  440 (441?), especially in damp weather.  I have studio  and concert venues with pianos that I have to pull down from A 444 after leaving pitch at 440.  But you don't want to yoyo from 438 to 442 if you can help it. I prefer to  pull pitch down a cent or two on my second or final pass for stability.

    One of my early tuning teachers showed me how to pull pitch slightly above, then below pitch, back and forth until you settle on your  final pitch.  I think of it like focusing binoculars; you don't know exactly where the focus is, so you go above and below focus, back and  forth getting closer with each change until you settle on "the best you can do".

    I also was taught to tune with the hammer following the string, usually at 12:30 to 2:30.

    Personally I use a Charles Faulk hammer and like its short head.  I never bend pins; my reasoning is that, with 160 lbs of string tension the pins set themselves.  If you can wiggle the pin around  with no change you probably have stability.  All of my tuning motion is lateral.

    To avoid breaking strings, especially on older pianos I drop the pitch "generously", I want to polish the contact point, I also use a bit of light lubricant (CLP) on the tenor and treble strings, but lubricants on bass strings can cause problems.  My spreadsheet shows that good strings should not break until you go as much as fourth over pitch (less in the high treble and  bass), so pulling a bit over pitch should be safe unless the string hangs or is  rusty.  I have not broken a string in quite a while.

    My personal "theory" is that much of the instability comes from friction at the bridge.  On follow up services I occasionally have found strings in unisons that dropped in pitch, which I interpret as  humidity or playing stress caused the  string to move across the bridge.  I intentionally pull pitches "generously" over pitch (up to 1/2 step) to render over the bridge.

    PLEASE use hearing protection!  Ear plugs will allow  you to tune with more force and will give you better stability.  After 20 or 40 years you will thank me.

    Experiment!  Experiment with every piano, every note and every string!  Every piano note and string will be different. Experience counts.



    ------------------------------
    Blaine Hebert RPT
    Duarte CA
    (626) 390-0512
    ------------------------------



  • 34.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 9 days ago

    If you have made your best effort, your unisons are holding and sounding good, the temperature is steady, etc., what more are you going to do? 

    I will mention too that no direct sunlight on the strings. 

    If you have A/C running in the room, whether it's on or off, likely you won't ever have a stable tuning.  I once had a spinet in a cold room with A/C on.  I could not get a stable tuning.  I rescheduled another day, the A/C was off, and room temperature.  Tuned right up.  A PLS (damppchaser) helps, but even then if you open up the piano the strings will cool down and pitch goes up a little.  I have a client with a console that's next to a sliding door to the outside.  It can be wildly out each time I come.  No damppchaser in it.  She's a flute teacher, so I have to do my best job.  Temperature changes make almost instant pitch changes.  It's frustrating because it's a lot of effort even to change the pitch a cent or two.  I tune dueling pianos downtown.  They face each other.  The overhead lighting is LED on one side, the other has some incandescent bulbs.  Guess which one I have more string breaking and unstable tunings on?  I used to tune with the lights on.  Then I realized that the heat from the lights was affecting the tuning.  It was a slog until I realized that the lights were hot on that one side.  I started using a headlamp (it's dark in there even during the day).  What do you know?  My tunings became much more stable.  Never mind what happens when the show starts and they turn on the lights, I can't help that.  But the more I tune, the more I realize that ambient temperature affects my tunings.  Something to contemplate.



    ------------------------------
    Paul McCloud, RPT
    Accutone Piano Service
    www.AccutonePianoService.com
    pavadasa@gmail.com
    ------------------------------



  • 35.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Member
    Posted 9 days ago

    Thanks Paul. I am tuning under pretty stable conditions for these two pianos at my home -- the ones I practice piano tech on. I'm actually trying to reduce the number of variables that can affect my tuning practice so that I can isolate what is my technique vs. what is in the environment that might be affecting the pitch.

    As a beginner, we don't know what is "good enough". I think this can be the disheartening bit of it. At the end of 3 hours doing a pitch adjustment and a fine tune, I find that 80% of my unisons are off, what should I make of it? My technique? Environment? Likely BOTH!

    Paul, as a professional, you tune my piano, and an hour later find that the unisons are 0.2-0.3c off from each other and the average pitch has gone up 0.3c, would you be happy with that? Honest question.

    Ah shoot, I left the kitchen window open!!!! 😫



    ------------------------------
    Andrew Young
    San Diego CA
    ------------------------------



  • 36.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 8 days ago

    Hi Andrew:

    If you can get to .2-.3 cents accuracy, you're doing really good!  If it drifts that much in an hour, I wouldn't worry much about it.  You'll refine your technique over time, discovering things along the way.  I'm STILL finding new things to try and what I thought was good simply wasn't.  Since I've been using Pianoscope, I've been able to see how far off I was, even though I thought it sounded good.  I'll go back later and see how far off and hear it too.  On some pianos I'll tune the unisons by ear, others I'll tune each string to the app.  In almost every case, the ones I did with Pianoscope are better over time.  But anyway, try to develop your ear to hear when the two strings of a unison are pure, and by a very slight touch of the tuning hammer they move closer or farther from pure.  Try to feel the tendency of the string to move sharp or flat and if there is some twist in the tuning pin that's doing it.  It takes a long time to develop the feel for how the tuning pin is moving in the pinblock, and forcing it to where you want it and make it stay there.  In the beginning, I used to pound hard.  But I discovered that doing that made it go sharp after a little while.  So I backed off.  I rarely do a hard blow anymore.  But I can see what's happening in the app and I have honed my skills using it.  It's hard because every string is different, and some strings fluctuate in pitch more than others when you hit them.  For the initial blow, all strings go sharp, and then settle down.  So it's kind of a moving target.

    I know that soon you'll get a hold on all of this and you'll be an excellent tech.  How do I know?  Because you care.  You don't like that it has changed over time.  You want to make it right.  That's what you need to succeed in this business.  Like the old Avis commercial, "We try harder".



    ------------------------------
    Paul McCloud, RPT
    Accutone Piano Service
    www.AccutonePianoService.com
    pavadasa@gmail.com
    ------------------------------



  • 37.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Member
    Posted 8 days ago
    Paul. Thanks for the encouragement. 





  • 38.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Member
    Posted 6 days ago

    Paul, let's say that the temperature goes up 10 degrees F and the A4 key goes down 1c. When the temp goes back down 10 degrees and the strings go sharp, do you expect the unisons to be exactly where they were before? or would you expect to have some deviation, even if slight? Like, the three strings have a ~0.2c difference. i.e. there is now a slight twang to the note but not enough to hear a beat in the fundamental. This is what I'm experiencing right now.

    Again, this is from a beginner's perspective about when "good enough" is good enough. It is easy to say that we can always do better. But by framing the question like that where environmental factors are not within your control, is this good enough?



    ------------------------------
    Andrew Young
    San Diego CA
    ------------------------------



  • 39.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Member
    Posted 6 days ago
    It may go back perfectly, it probably depends on bridge displacement (the bridge returning to it's previos shape) and mostly whether or not the strings slipped over the termination points during the time it was at -10c.




    Cobrun Sells
    505.402.6481
    cobrun94@yahoo.com







  • 40.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 5 days ago

    Andrew, you need to keep things in perspective. There are many factors at play. In answer to the question about the piano returning to their original pitches, generally yes, higher quality pianos more than others. The longer, heavier, bare wires change more than the shorter ones and any disparities will be magnified in the middle of the piano.

    An ETD is like a microscope, 0.2 cents is 2/1000's of a of a semitone, if you hear a slight twang it's likely due to other factors such as string mating, voicing, bridge issues or a combination. From a beginner's perspective 0.2 is fantastic! Much of what this counsel has been about is that pianos breathe. It's easy especially with an ETD to get caught up in the minutia. If you have a chance to check any of the pianos you've tuned in the field after a week or two or a month, you'll get some indication of how well you're setting pins and leaving the string segments in a state of equilibrium. 

    Keep up the diligence and check your home piano a lot to see how it breathes. Imo, you should close the piano up between sessions as it is more like a real world situation. It might be interesting to check the pitches with the piano all closed and then maybe 20 minutes after you open it up. In some situations I give a grand a good 10 minutes or so after I raise the lid before I take measurements and start the tuning.



    ------------------------------
    Steven Rosenthal RPT
    Honolulu HI
    (808) 521-7129
    ------------------------------



  • 41.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Posted 5 days ago
    Steven - you raise a good point

    If an instrument goes through a large change one way in temperature and then reversed back to original it's not surprising that the unisons won't be absolutely accurate to within the tolerances under discussion, as one's original differences of tension however slight on the non speaking lengths won't have shown up aurally on the initial tuning, but will be exposed when the temperature change evens things out. The process is rather akin not only to examining the tuning through a microscope but an x-ray into non-speaking length tension differences!

    Best wishes

    David P


    --
    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
    David Pinnegar, B.Sc., A.R.C.S.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
    +44 7868385643





  • 42.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 7 days ago

    Likely it's hammer technique, not environment or excessive hard blows or heating up the strings, or lack of forearm smashes or letting the piano sit or anything else, especially if it's 80% of the unisons that have some movement when you go back and check. You're not leaving the pin in a stable position.  

    It's difficult to explain hammer technique in this format but I would work to stabilize by incrementally smaller and smaller, and alternating push-pull, movements as you play the note. Tune MF- F (harder than that is not helpful) but listen P-MP.  Tune unisons as you go.  

    Your final pressure on the pin should be on the plane of rotation (this is important) and very very light pressure favoring the slightest (and I mean very slight) counterclockwise direction.  You don't want to press so hard that the pin will tend to want to recover any flex you leave in the opposite direction pulling the pitch sharp. But the tension in the string will want to drag the pin toward the speaking length causing the pitch to go flat so it's better to finish in the direction of the string tension.  That leaves the slightest countering to offset that tendency. Don't overdo it. If you press too hard in that direction in setting the pin, you will leave too much flex toward the string and, again, as the pin relaxes and straightens it will pull the pitch sharp. This is the problem with pulling the pitch sharp and trying to pound it down to the target. Often you will end up trying to force the pitch down by pressing on the pin leaving it flexed toward the string too much and it then will pull sharp as it relaxes.  Or, the excessive pounding process can destabilize the other strings in the unison in either direction, sharp or flat 

    Thus the incremental back and forth technique until you are leaving the pin in a very neutral and stable position. 

    Check by listening alternating muting right and left string so you're hearing only two strings at a time and compare center+left to center+right listening for any differences indicating one of them is opening up. 

    Jon Page's CBL is a good product (and I use it) if you have rendering problems but center pin lubricant works too  

    Easier to demonstrate than explain but hopefully that helps. I think many of the other suggestions will send you down a dead end. Stability is all about hammer technique and the ability to feel where the pin is by alternating incremental and very small movements and listing to the subtle pitch changes that are associated with those very small movements. 



    ------------------------------
    David Love RPT
    www.davidlovepianos.com
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net
    415 407 8320
    ------------------------------



  • 43.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 6 days ago

    David,

    I appreciate your comments.  Hammer technique is essential as is temp and humidity.   I won't get into specifics as many have put their 2 cents in.  I have my ways and they rely on mostly hammer technique, not forearm smashes nor letting the structure settle.  

    But adding them puts icing on the cake.  The starting point is temp/humidity and hammer technique.  



    ------------------------------
    Tim Coates RPT
    Sioux Falls SD
    ------------------------------



  • 44.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 6 days ago

    Tim

    What I see a lot of in this discussion (and many others, for that matter) is the correlation = causation error and other variants of the false cause fallacy which leads us to believe in non productive procedures or even to the conclusion that any type of stability is really impossible. It's how mythologies start and perpetuate. 



    ------------------------------
    David Love RPT
    www.davidlovepianos.com
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net
    415 407 8320
    ------------------------------



  • 45.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 9 days ago
    Hi Andrew, Welcome to our world! 
          A few things I do to stabilize my tunings...

    A: I will take a minute and tighten any plate screws or bolts. Most will be too tight to turn, others will move very slightly. Don't force it for fear of cracking the plate.

    B: keep in mind tuning treble notes can affect bass notes which can affect mid-range pitch. There is a lot of pressure on that plate and everything wood in a piano. I usually try to quick pitch correct the piano then fine tune. It takes longer, but I'm hearing ood things from my customers.

    C: As I'm pulling the hammer, I rapidly "beat" the key. This can help loosen the pressure by moving the string over as many of the contact points as possible. 

          Along with all the other great ideas presented here by the others, you should notice improvements as time goes on. Be patient, it takes months or years to produce a high quality tuning. 3 a week will take more time. Best of luck to you!





  • 46.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 8 days ago

    Andrew,

    Something I heard when I was just starting out was that it takes 10 years to learn how to tune.  I thought that this was nonsense as I had been tuning for over a year and knew what I was doing.  After two years  I looked back and though "Well it did take 2 years, but I know how to tune".  After 5 years I realized that it did take me those 5 years of experience  to get where I was but I was OK.  After 10 years I  looked back and admitted that it did take me 10 years  to  get decent.

    Malcom Gladwell proposed the 10,000 hour rule: it takes 10,000 hours of practice to master a subject.  In a survey of a music school there was found to be three categories of students, 4,000 hour students that intended to go on to be music teachers, 8,000 hour students that would become professional orchestral or performing musicians and 10,000 hour students that would go on to be solo performing artists.  Another example he gave was the Beatles, who worked for 8 years in a club in Germany before returning to England and becoming famous. 

    If you add up the hours that a tuner works in 10 years it comes out to nearly 10,000 hours of tuning.

    I could probably teach a beginner to tune adequately with an ETM in about a week.  It will  still take about 10 years to develop the business experience and skills, customer relations and deep experience of piano function and responses to your efforts. 

    Its a fun journey, though I am still learning HOW to tune after 50+ years.



    ------------------------------
    Blaine Hebert RPT
    Duarte CA
    (626) 390-0512
    ------------------------------



  • 47.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 8 days ago

    Hi Blaine,

    You wrote:

    "I could probably teach a beginner to tune adequately with an ETM in about a week."

    Well, perhaps, if that beginner is extraordinarily talented and persistent. And we would have to define "adequately."

    Learning to use an app is straightforward enough. Gaining control over tuning pin and string tends to be more elusive (at least, that is what I have observed in the 100 or so people I have trained over the past four decades).

    ETM/ETA/ETD proficiency aside, if you could indeed teach someone to tune stably in a week, I would pay good money to see that happen.

    Best,

    Alan



    ------------------------------
    Alan Eder, RPT
    Herb Alpert School of Music
    California Institute of the Arts
    Valencia, CA
    661.904.6483
    ------------------------------



  • 48.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 8 days ago

    I don't know if anyone has mentioned it yet, but the more you strike the string, the more it heats up and goes flat. This could be part of the reason that it drifts slightly sharp after you tune it, as it cools off.



    ------------------------------
    Paul Larudee RPT
    El Cerrito CA
    (510) 418-4485
    ------------------------------



  • 49.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 8 days ago

    When the world was young, I used to try to tune the high treble by tuning sharp and pounding the key while lowering the pitch into tune.  But shortly afterward, the strings would be several cents sharp.  I believe that hard blows will create excess tension across the bridge and trapped there by friction, later leaking back into the speaking length.  My theory, I have no proof.  But I stopped doing that, and since then I just try to tune at most with blows that were as hard as a normal player would do. I was so much older then..
    I agree with Paul's explanation.  Very slight temperature changes do affect the strings' pitch.



    ------------------------------
    Paul McCloud, RPT
    Accutone Piano Service
    www.AccutonePianoService.com
    pavadasa@gmail.com
    ------------------------------



  • 50.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 7 days ago

    Paul McCloud: I have long suspected the same with regards to the high treble, but also with no incontrovertible proof (too many darn variables, amirite?). I think you can over-tension both the front and back non speaking lengths by pounding too hard. It's less of an issue in the rest of the piano, and I'm not sure if it's because the bridges are farther away from the strike point or because the longer speaking lengths are better able to absorb heavy blows before they start dragging the string through the bearings. I think we're lucky performers don't hit the high treble as hard or frequently as the rest of the piano or it would be a bit of a conundrum. 

    Paul Larudee: I think an infrared camera might be able to demonstrate this effect. I can't remember where I heard it (Todd Scott maybe?) but apparently the agraffes heat up noticeably when you move the string via the tuning pin a lot.



    ------------------------------
    Nathan Monteleone RPT
    Fort Worth TX
    (817) 675-9494
    nbmont@gmail.com
    ------------------------------



  • 51.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 7 days ago

    That would make sense, Nathan, but what would be the effect? Wouldn't the bearing point (the midpoint of the agraffe hole) be pretty much the same even if it expands due to friction heat? I'm inclined to think it makes little difference. 



    ------------------------------
    Paul Larudee RPT
    El Cerrito CA
    (510) 418-4485
    ------------------------------



  • 52.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 7 days ago

    Alan,

    I do remember my father demonstrating beats and tuning while I heard nothing, so, yes my one week tuning course might be over-optimistic.  Still, cranking strings with an ETD is pretty straightforward, while mastering the intricacies of tuning does take years, which was my point.

    I have 25 years of college and high school teaching experience and can teach, but in all my years I have never found a student interested in learning to tune.  I even offered to teach at Pacific PS after Don retired, but no takers. If you have taught 100 students then my hat is off to you.



    ------------------------------
    Blaine Hebert RPT
    Duarte CA
    (626) 390-0512
    ------------------------------



  • 53.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 8 days ago

    No one has mentioned allowing the whole structure to settle. 

    One pass to change the pitch as quick as possible with out medium or hard blows, not being concerned about unisons (20-25 minutes).  Then either use fore arm smashes or large chords for about 30 seconds to excite the plate, strings, and soundboard.  Let the whole structure rest for at least 5 minutes.  Then fine tune with heavier blows to test the stability (40 minutes).

    Works for me.  That five minutes lets me clean, make up the invoice, or find a rest room (age sensitive). Piano is very very stable in the end.  



    ------------------------------
    Tim Coates RPT
    Sioux Falls SD
    ------------------------------



  • 54.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 8 days ago

    Andrew,

    Here's another tip: Contact Jon Page in MA and talk to him about buying and using CBL (Counter Bearing Lube). Jonpage@pianocapecod.com

    Peter Grey Piano Doctor 



    ------------------------------
    Peter Grey
    Stratham NH
    (603) 686-2395
    pianodoctor57@gmail.com
    ------------------------------



  • 55.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Member
    Posted 8 days ago
    Did Jon change his email address? I was using his comcast email address...

    Anyway, sorry I forgot to mention CBL as well...some things become second nature it's hard to remember even using it though I use it on every tuning. I use a Supply88's short hyperoiler to apply Page's CBL to v-bars, pressure bars, agraffes, underfelts, and to string splices when I'm creating a new splice...I spread the fluid with mini paint brush.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/BU36Q2cGgLg2TXWx9

    Andrew, you are also in a great outdoor climate...your annual outdoor temperature and humidity stay pretty much the same as opposed to other places. This is good because it means tunings will hold better from summer to winter as long as piano owners don't crank the heat in the winter or A/C in summer.

    Another thing to consider as far as making your tunings sound "better" from one season to another is "floating" the pitch...if you tune a piano in January and come again in July the middle above the bass break may be sharp. Instead of tuning it perfect, or if using an ETD like Cybertuner...instead of overshooting to the flat side, leave the middle a tiny bit sharp so that when the next January comes around the middle won't be so flat in the winter.




    Cobrun Sells
    505.402.6481
    cobrun94@yahoo.com





  • 56.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 7 days ago

    It should be noted that temperature affects the metal, humidity, the wood. A sudden drop in temperature and the pitch will go sharp because the steel strings are contracting. Changes in humidity take much longer to manifest in wood moisture content. It's not likely that humidity is going to cause a change in the pitch in one day maybe not even in one week.

    Shifts in pitch due to temperature are easy to demonstrate. Find a clean unison and then take your finger and gently rub one of the strings along. It's length. You don't need to do this for very long. Listen to the union again and you'll hear that the string has gone flat. However, once the string cools, it will be back in tune, that happens relatively quickly. 



    ------------------------------
    David Love RPT
    www.davidlovepianos.com
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net
    415 407 8320
    ------------------------------



  • 57.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Member
    Posted 7 days ago
    Thanks David. This is very practical advice. Appreciate it.

    As for the temperature, I've been measuring one string out of all the A keys on my piano every hour from the time I wake up to the time I go to bed. It is fascinating to see how the pitch changes with the day/night rhythm. I guess I could've done the thing you mentioned about heating the string with your fingers too which would have given me similar conclusions.

    But now I know that the entire piano will be changing based on the time of day and temperature. I have empirical evidence of it.





  • 58.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 7 days ago

    Significant swings of humidity can also have a rapid effect. At 2pm, I tuned for an outdoor performance. The temperature was 105 and the humidity was 24%. By 8pm, the temperature had hit 80 and the humidity had hit the dew point (100%). The piano was wet and completely out of tune. From then on, I've recommended a very robust Dampp-Chaser system for such circumstances, as well as a cotton sheet to absorb and wick the moisture.



    ------------------------------
    Paul Larudee RPT
    El Cerrito CA
    (510) 418-4485
    ------------------------------



  • 59.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 7 days ago

    I think it's more likely that was temperature driven than humidity. Humidity affects the moisture content of the wood, causing the wood to expand or contract, but wood does not react instantly it takes days if not weeks for it to change substantially. Temperature on the other hand affects the steel strings almost instantly as I outlined before. It's unlikely that a dampp chaser would stabilize in that kind of extreme. You see the same phenomenon on the stage when the stage lights come on and the heat from the stage lights alone can drive the Piano flat. Tuning Pianos for outdoor concerts always presents a problem even under the best circumstances especially if you're doing the piano and there is a radical temperature swing or the sun is on the piano or something like that. But likely this is temperature driven. 



    ------------------------------
    David Love RPT
    www.davidlovepianos.com
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net
    415 407 8320
    ------------------------------



  • 60.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 7 days ago

    The best thing we can do for tuning stability is to make sure that the environment itself is stable. Temperature in the short run,  humidity in the long run. I run into this all the time with people who don't like to use heat in the winter time and the pianos are invariably sharp even though relative indoor humidity is often lower. I have not found that playing the piano is much of a factor in tuning stability. Of course you can knock a unison out if you hit it hard enough. But i tune several concert grands on a regular basis, sometimes weekly sometimes biweekly.  Even with the most vigorous players I rarely find things out of tune after, even a unison, and that includes in the high treble where there's some talk about driving the pitch sharp if you hit it hard enough. That's not my experience. Again I think tuning stability has everything to do with hammer technique unless the piano has a rendering problem, meaning how easily the strings slide through the friction points. I think there's a point of diminishing returns and how hard you hit it. Beyond a normal "firm" blow, I don't think you're doing any good or making it more stable by hitting it harder, or using forearm smashes. I don't know if you're making it less stable, I have not experienced that either after nearly 50 years, but it's excessive wear and tear on both your hands and your ears that doesn't give you any benefit. You want to use a firm blow when you're tuning, lighter when you're listening. You don't need to listen too far into the envelope to hear if something is opening up. But as you're going through and refining or checking the unisons you probably do want listen a little bit farther into the envelope. Multiple passes to check unisons are always advisable. 



    ------------------------------
    David Love RPT
    www.davidlovepianos.com
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net
    415 407 8320
    ------------------------------



  • 61.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 5 days ago

    Hi, David Love. While what you share has validity, I find mostly the opposite to be true with respect to humidity. I have long believed what you say about temperatures impacting pitch, but also that humidity has a much greater impact. I have been getting a great deal of empirical evidence of this since starting at the university, which is in a new, closely environmentally controlled building. I get alerts every time the RH varies from within 40% - 50% range even by .1%. The sensors themselves are accurate withing 3%. I also carry 3 individual thermo-hygrometers with data loggers and have some installed on pianos in key locations. I had noticed before starting here that summer always made pianos go sharp and winter always flat, even in temperature-controlled environments. Temperature does play a minor role, but it is more significant as it relates to relative humidity. This is painfully clear when the Air Handling Units (AHUs) go offline and I have an enormous amount of extra work to do. But the temperature does not change, only the RH. The HVAC is separate from the Humidity Control Units (HCUs) but are fed through the same ventilation. Humidity does affect not only the swelling of the soundboard, but every other wood component of the piano. Often it is movement of the plate that contributes in addition to the soundboard moving. Tightening plate screws within reason goes a long way to building stability (along with diligent tuning). Remembering that in most environments, temperature impacts humidity because it is "relative" to temperature and air pressure is very important in determining what happens in a piano and predicting movement going forward. 



    ------------------------------
    Dave Conte, RPT

    Piano Technician in Residence
    The University of Tennessee
    College of Music
    Knoxville TN
    (817) 307-5656
    Owner: Rocky Top Piano
    ------------------------------



  • 62.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 5 days ago

    Dave, could you clarify a couple of things? How much change in RH are you talking about and in what range? How long a period does an HCU failure last before it begins to show changes in the pianos?

    This whole conversation makes me realize how much of our job (and outlook) revolves around measuring things.



    ------------------------------
    Steven Rosenthal RPT
    Honolulu HI
    (808) 521-7129
    ------------------------------



  • 63.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 3 days ago
    Steven,

    The range we target is 45% +/- 5%, so 40% - 50%. I am supposed to get alerts whenever it reads outside this range. 

    The piano in question was moved from a room adjacent to stage, onto the stage through a set of double doors. The piano room was at 47% and on stage it was 4% so 5% RH change was measurable at roughly .25 cents pitch drop overall after about. 30 minutes. After 2 hours it was down 1.2 cents and stayed put. This space is designed for both performance and class functions. No hot spotlights, just the LEDs for a class. Not much change, but enough to be noticeable when both Steinway Ds are played together. I have not logged this but in this range of RH, the pitch seems to change 1C for every 4% RH.  

    The HCUs can be down as little as a few hours before I start detecting changes, but as David Love correctly says, EMC changes are slow and the volume of air in the building takes a long time to reflect this. The building changes are not as sudden as going from one room to another.



    --
    Dave Conte, RPT, CCT
    Owner, Rocky Top Piano
    Knoxville, TN
    817-307-5656







  • 64.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 2 days ago

    Dave, thanks for the information. You have about as close as we could hope for of 'laboratory conditions'. With this specific incident, you mention the rh but not the room temp, did you a) check the pitch before raising the lid, or was the lid raised at all and if so, did it stay raised? How many notes did you sample to establish the pitch? It would be interesting to set up a protocol such as checking all the D's and G's across the compass. It would also be interesting to put a bluetooth monitor that logs over time inside the piano to see what happens in storage.

    Yesterday I tuned a extremely stable C7x for a concert, at noon the temp was 68.5º the unisons were solid and the pitch from about C5 up was about +5.4 cents, G#2 to around A4 was about .8 to 1.2 cents flatter. The bass more or less agreed with the treble. I tuned it to +5.4. When I returned at 5pm the room temp was 71º and the treble had dropped to around 4.1 cents along with the bass, the middle section had dropped again an extra .8 to 1.2 cents, the unisons were solid. I tuned it to +4.1. (Half hour allotted time) When I returned for a touch up at intermission the room temp was 73.5 degrees and the treble had dropped to +3.6 cents, the middle had dropped again about an additional .8 to 1.2 cents, the unisons were solid. I had 15 minutes in a noisy room, with the aid of a Pitch Grabber pickup I got a strong signal for my ETD, of course that doesn't help one's ears, but I did my best to shore up the middle so it agreed with treble and bass. With other pianos I probably would have spent that 15 minutes cleaning up errant unisons but it wasn't needed here so I was able to better align the middle with the time allotted. Still a bit of a harrowing experience given the noise but I know the piano behaves so well, and the pins are easy to manipulate. I did the opposite of you, noting the temp but not the rh, I did notice that the last visit at intermission the rh was 70%, the device I have in the piano does not create a log.

    It's pretty rare that I get booked for a follow up after a sound check let alone for intermission, if I did it follow up more often I might try doing the earlier tuning in the cooler room -setting the middle section about 1.2 cents higher than either end but I just haven't had the guts if I'm not on the scene later to check the results. I'm pretty sure it would work though as this room cycles through these temperatures daily. Actually I could probably dare to go to 2 cents.

    At any rate, you are in a good position to document these things in the environment and inventory you are dealing with. We don't have that much information on an hour to hour or day to day basis. Perhaps you have assistants that could make a project out of it?

    Of course, we are talking about relatively small increments compared to most field work where pianos are tune annually if that.



    ------------------------------
    Steven Rosenthal RPT
    Honolulu HI
    (808) 521-7129
    ------------------------------



  • 65.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 4 days ago

    Dave Conte

    Humidity affects the EMC of the wood. The dimensional change in the wood related to that is the basis for dampp chasers effectiveness. The wood doesn't react instantaneously, it takes time for wood to gain or lose moisture and expand or contract--sometimes weeks.  That's why soundboard assemblies sit in the hot box for awhile before they are stable and ready for the next phase as well s why the installation of a DC requires the piano to dot for several weeks. Humidity has no affect on steel. 

    HVAC systems, when in the cooling cycle, are actually removing moisture from the air. That suggests that the pitch would go flat as the wood shrinks even with the temperature dropping. But it doesn't. The cooler air causes the steel to contract, the pitch goes sharp, CAUTs who work with old HVAC systems know this (Stanford has a very antiquated system). 

    Both factors can be in play which means that the more extreme changes will probably win out depending on the time frame. But if the humidity remains constant and the temperature drops, the piano will go sharp and vice versa. If the temperature remains constant and the humidity drops the piano will go flat, and vice versa. However, time is a factor because the wood dimensions change much more slowly. The steel reacts almost instantaneously. 

    If things are going in opposite directions, temperature dropping (pushing the pitch sharp) along with humidity dropping (pushing the pitch flat), the net change will depend on the time frame in which it is measured and the degree to which each of those factors change. 



    ------------------------------
    David Love RPT
    www.davidlovepianos.com
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net
    415 407 8320
    ------------------------------



  • 66.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 4 days ago
    David Love

    For your consideration: we have a model D Hamburg that stays in an offstage room adjacent to the stage until needed and  
    is tuned at least twice weekly. It was tuned on Tuesday when the humidity on stage was 42%, and 47% in the Hamburg room.

    When the Hamburg was brought onto the stage shortly thereafter for a master class, the pitch had dropped, not much but measurable, 
    within 30 minutes. Both locations were at 70 degrees. The pianos are moved on hydraulic transporters, so there was no bumping around. 
    I agree that reactions to humidity are slower than temperature changes, but quicker than you might think. 

    We have 124 pianos, harpsichords and other wooden instruments, in an environment that changes little temperature-wise, but despite 
    the generally dependable five humidity control units we have, there are still small (5% up or down) swings in RH which are noticeable in pitch.
    There is visible evidence with the harpsichords especially when cracks appear in the soundboards and pitch tanks when the humidity equipment is struggling or down. 
    This happens with the pianos as well, especially acute at the tenor break, which points to changes in humidity, sharp or flat  relative to RH%. 
    I hear about it from the string and percussion faculty (marimbas, etc.) but I don't hear comments from brass or wind. Those instruments are
    only effected by temperature and we know will go sharp when warm, flat when cold.  

    The Balenes Gamelan here are tuned annually, but the Ethnomusicology  faculty and guest artists never mention any deviation in pitch of those
    instruments here as the temperature is so constant. 

    I realize it is EMC that moves wood, but that is driven by RH and don't disagree with you about temperature. It is certainly a factor, but it is my 
    finding that humidity has a greater effect. It's not only the soundboard that moves, but every structural wood part of the piano is contributing. 

    Consider that a cast iron plate with a large surface area and struts that react to temperature would tend to contract and draw in,
    counteracting the increase in string tension given the same amount of temperature change. I don't think there is any practical way
    to measure this, at least within my budget and scope. 

    Thank you for this great discussion. I look forward to further interaction. 








  • 67.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 4 days ago

    There's quite a bit of information on characteristics of wood and how fast wood changes dimensionally based on things like density thickness, grain orientation, etc.  Spruce is relatively soft and soundboards are relatively thin and so they may *start* to change within hours according to what I've read. But that initial change is in the very outer layers of the wood and the overall dimensional change will take much longer, days, maybe weeks.  Changes in the bridge dimensions will take longer because of the additional thickness and density.  The final change, depending on the severity of the relative humidity swing, can take months.

    So I would say there's something else at play there.  Stages can be tricky, and I have found that stage lights themselves can cause a significant drop in pitch by warming the strings--and the plate.

    The coefficient of expansion, or contraction, is very similar between plates and strings, fortunately. If the coefficients were different, the piano would be very unstable. The pitch changes in the same direction with changes in temperature based on the plate and string expansion or contraction, but it's a much more instantaneous change. 

    Of course, isolating variables is always tricky when you're conducting experiments or when reporting anecdotal experiences.  But in general changes to metal are instantaneous and are isotropic meaning they change uniformly in all directions. Wood change is very slow and is anisotropic, meaning it's very directionally driven and affected by things like grain angle.  



    ------------------------------
    David Love RPT
    www.davidlovepianos.com
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net
    415 407 8320
    ------------------------------



  • 68.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 3 days ago

    This is why a premium alkyd spar varnish provides the best protection against rh fluctuations.



    ------------------------------
    Parker Leigh RPT
    Winchester VA
    (540) 722-3865
    ------------------------------



  • 69.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Posted 6 days ago

    Andrew, have you had the opportunity to watch some very fine tuners at work? 

    There are things you can learn from seeing it in person that can't be put well in words.

    Learning by seeing can be very direct.



    ------------------------------
    Ed Sutton
    ed440@me.com
    (980) 254-7413
    ------------------------------



  • 70.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Member
    Posted 6 days ago
    Ed, yes. I have on a few occasions been able to watch technicians tune. I ask lots of questions.





  • 71.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 6 days ago

    Years ago I was discussing temperature change with another tech when ac cycles on and off. He postulated 2 cents for every 10 degree change. In my experience, I think this is fairly close though AI queries suggest larger change per degree but what does it know (grin). It is common for me to see a 1 cent change in the middle third of the piano and occasionally as much as 2 cents. 



    ------------------------------
    Tremaine Parsons RPT
    Georgetown CA
    (530) 333-9299
    ------------------------------



  • 72.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Posted 4 days ago

    Andrew-

    You've gotten a lot of information about the effect of temperature on the strings and the plate.

    The mass of the plate delays its reaction to temperature change. This can matter a lot when a piano has been moved indoors from a very cold or hot truck.

    But the relative changes will vary depending on how open or closed the piano is. Spotlights on an open grand work quickly!

    Which leads me to ask what kind of pianos are you tuning, in what condition and situation? A vertical piano which is opened for tuning, then closed immediately, may change differently than if it had been left open overnight. If you're dealing with pianos in a home where the air vents blow intermittently, an open piano may have many small temperature drifts to resist.

    Whatever the change, you need to ask "How does it sound? Is it playable?" In home pianos daily playability is more important than perfect A=440.



    ------------------------------
    Ed Sutton
    ed440@me.com
    (980) 254-7413
    ------------------------------



  • 73.  RE: Tuning instability - advice from the veterans

    Member
    Posted 3 days ago
    Ed,

    Yes, I have received a lot of info. Thank you to everyone for this lively discussion.

    What pianos am I tuning? Mostly in-home pianos. But my curiosity that sparked this discussion grew from practicing tuning on both of my pianos at home. One of them is a mid '90s Mason & Hamlin Model 50 (not many of these around) and the other is a Schafer & Sons (plenty of these around).

    I noticed that over the course of an hour, the entire range on both of these pianos would have shifted by sometimes over 1 cent. The S&S is my project piano that is perpetually open. We did not use HVAC at all and sometimes there are a couple windows open, however, I noticed this regardless of whether the windows were open or not.

    Based on everything that people have said in this chat as well as my own extremely scientific logs and observations (i jest), temperature is absolutely a fast-acting agent when it comes to drifting pitch. Notwithstanding my own hammer technique.

    Are they playable? Yes ��