Would it be easier to simply replace the barrels, or would removal and fitting be issues?
Hi Susan,
That could be it. Now that I've put it in writing <G>, the possibility occurs to me that the holes for the barrels are too small for them, and the maple posts are squeezing the barrels and the threads. There was only one of them which was so loose in the hole that I couldn't get the screw started (without it rotating or walking out the backside) unless I had the damper wire in the post. This would explain why one of the frozen barrels behaved normally outside of the post.
As far as replacing or fitting, that's a delicate matter because all the owner knew was that I was resetting the damper timing in accordance with the fresh regulation. Now, I'd be coming after him to say that not only does he need new barrels, but while we're at it, the DGR needs redoing and I don't like that chose of damper felts (flat front&back damper felts all the way down through the tenor to the next-to-bottom one). And based on the rebushed DGR, the damper heads will have to be re-spaced anyway ( … we're talking back to Square One).
What I'm thinking of is heating the barrels (in place) with a #6 or 7 bridge pin. (I measure 0.086", to avoid the threads.) It would just be a question of how much the pins would expand under an alcohol flame. (Heck, the pins could even be red hot.) A long shot. But the situation is easy to demonstrate to him. And he's so happy with the rest of the piano anyway…
The empty screw hole behind the damper wire was big to match the hole in front, so once tightened, the damper wires would bend into the holes.
(giggle…) This sound's like some factory's solution to wire set screws directly in the posts, in such a way the over tightening wouldn't immediately split the post in half.
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William Ballard RPT
WBPS
Saxtons River VT
802-869-9107
"Our lives contain a thousand springs
and dies if one be gone
Strange that a harp of a thousand strings
should keep in tune so long."
...........Dr. Watts, "The Continental Harmony,1774
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Original Message:
Sent: 03-11-2018 19:49
From: Susan Kline
Subject: Damper Sockets from Hell
I luckily have never encountered anything like this. Would it be easier to simply replace the barrels, or would removal and fitting be issues?
The worst I had was a set without brass barrels, just larger than normal set screws in wood. The empty screw hole behind the damper wire was big to match the hole in front, so once tightened, the damper wires would bend into the holes. It was really eventful removing those dampers! Once they were out, I straightened the wires and installed new barrels with their matching new set screws.
I'm glad I only met this arrangement once.
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Susan Kline
Philomath, Oregon
Original Message:
Sent: 03-11-2018 16:45
From: William Ballard
Subject: Damper Sockets from Hell
Resetting damper timing at the damper levers is routine. With the setscrew loose, set the damper lever height where you want it, run the set screw back in against the wire, and tighten it firmly. The most that will happen is that a head will twist, and that's a routine correction. Not on this 1963 Stwy M.
While resetting an extremely early damper timing to coordinate it with a fresh action regulation, I found ten setscrews completely frozen in their barrels. I replaced 8, and 2 more were happy with new set screws (from what I had on hand). I did some wire bending to get the wires slipping nicely in the damper posts , and also decided to replace all the original set screws (with bunged-up heads and shallow blade slots) for new from Stwy NY. Then the nightmare began.
About halfway into the barrels, the run-down torque increased dramatically. And it got noisy, like the sound of squeaking bed-frame springs, or a duck talking to itself ( - minus the "q" but with the opening diphthong "ua"). In fact, the tight grip between the two threads completely masked the set-screw arrival at the wire. With out this feedback, the only sign that the wire was locked down was a twisted head.
But even after realligning head (with a final tighten on the screw for good measure), there were still a dozen or so which, after a few minutes, would let their levers drop down. On these, the only tightening I felt sure of was with vice grip pliers biting down hard on the screw heads. The only test I felt comfortable with was rotating the heads 10º degrees 1.) to make sure that with this, no screws would decide to mysteriously loosen up, and 2.) to confirm that they all snapped back firmly. There was no "sproing" noise to be heard , but it was definitely visible.
I did test to see if there was anything about the combination of the original barrels and the new setscrews. With a new setscrew in one of the 8 originally frozen barrels, the screw turned down beautifully and locked a damper wire firmly. So it wasn't the extreme run-down torque at work here.
I don't trust this situation. Has anyone else hard this nightmare? (Believe my, I already eliminated a few possibilities.)
TIA
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William Ballard RPT
WBPS
Saxtons River VT
802-869-9107
"Our lives contain a thousand springs
and dies if one be gone
Strange that a harp of a thousand strings
should keep in tune so long."
...........Dr. Watts, "The Continental Harmony,1774
+++++++++++++++++++++
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