Discussion Posts

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    Jeff Hickey has coverrd this thoroughly on Journal articles. ------------------------------ Ed Sutton ed440@me.com (980) 254-7413 ------------------------------

  • Posted in: CAUT

    Yes, Geoff I think this company SHOULD have as close to exactly what you need as anyplace I have found or heard of. They send us a bunch of samples & all the info/help we asked for. (Samples at no charge!)  The one that we went with, and that I sent pics ...

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    hey i am game to teach jim kelly fur elise piano service 843 325 4357 ------------------------------ James Kelly Pawleys Island SC 843-325-4357 ------------------------------

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    RE: Piano case bumpers

    Posted in: CAUT

    Kevin -- This looks promising. Perhaps the all rubber guard, which is flexible and can bend around curved surfaces, double stick taped to the side of the piano would work.  Thanks -- ------------------------------ Geoff Sykes, RPT Los Angeles CA - ...

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    RE: Sight-o-Tuner

    Posted in: Pianotech

    Steve Fairchild used to boast that he got an accuracy up to .01 cent with those pots. Pwg ------------------------------ Peter Grey Stratham NH 603-686-2395 pianodoctor57@gmail.com ------------------------------

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    who would like to teach a hands- on session in Tucson on their quick and accurate method doing this?  ------------------------------ Douglas Laing Tuner/Technician Tampa FL 727-539-9602 ------------------------------

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    There were some Journal articles about the how to do the job with out removing the flanges from the rail.  They were written by Jeff Hickey.  I don't remember when they appeared, but I'm sure you could send an email to Jeff and he could tell you. David ...

  • Posted in: CAUT

    I found the product & supplier for what we used. One of our professors knew someone that had used this company before. They were GREAT to deal with, and their products are very high quality.  The company is Wallguard.com I am going to attach pics from ...

  • Posted in: CAUT

    Ask Keith Kopp. We did that at BYU in a couple different ways. In one group we put wood bumpers to protect the piano, then custodians started complaining about these dings on their doorways...  j ------------------------------ James Busby Mt Pleasant ...

  • Posted in: CAUT

    I installed a couple pieces of 1 x 2 on each door jamb between the storage area and the stage, at a level just below the lid (it was well-marked on each jamb by abrasion of the piano lids), and covered them with carpet. That certainly helped a lot. ...

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    I believe I heard about the procedure for leaving the flanges on the rail by removing the dampers from Jeff Hickey, who had worked it out. Ted Sambell made a nice little jig for holding the flanges once they were removed, and sent me one. ------------------------------ ...

  • Posted in: CAUT

    Thanks, Kevin. That would be great! ------------------------------ Geoff Sykes, RPT Los Angeles CA ------------------------------

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    Good points to make them aware of. Thanks. ------------------------------ Geoff Sykes, RPT Los Angeles CA ------------------------------

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    You can replace the cords on the standard butt version without removing the assemblies from the rail. Proceed as usual, removing dampers and rails, unhooking tapes to drop the wippens out of the way, clean out the old cord from the slots and cut new cord ...

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  • Posted in: Pianotech

    Apparently, my original response to this question wasn't posted. Here is my original post. Patrick, STOP THE PRESSES. If you have the action with butt plates, you're job is going to be a walk through the park. The major problem with flange ...

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    Patrick, STOP THE PRESSES. If you have the action with butt plates, you're job is going to be a walk through the park. The major problem with flange replacement is the potential arduous and time consuming job of spacing hammers into the original ...

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    Patrick, I forgot. Yamaha replacement flanges come with the center pins installed. Roger ------Original Message------ Hello  I am going to quote on a Yamaha flange replacement job and I don't want to undercharge (as I seem to be in the habit ...

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    I agree with Terry, West Systems Epoxy.  The only problem with West Systems is it has the compressive strength of steel. If you get the epoxy in the screw hole, the screw will drift into the softer material. Shoe pegs in the hole will work but centering ...

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    When there is not a butt plate, I hold the flange in a vise and clean out the slots. To glue the second side, the hammer is rotated in the opposite direction on the flange. Hammers Tapered ------------------------------ Regards, Jon Page - ...

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    RE: humidity gauge

    Posted in: Pianotech

    https://www.thermoworks.com/Pocket-TH-RT819 I carry this in my bag. Very slim and batteries last a long time. Only $25. Such a deal. Very innovative company with high-quality products. I also have their cooking thermometer. Same as the one you see ...

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    I'm about to do two. Attached is my procedure. Attached is a photo of the tools I use. The tool on the far left has the pin for the drill to wrap the cord around. I use fishing line. I generally include a regulation with it. ------------------------------ ...

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    Your 8 hours is probably, closer, since I do standard flanges in about that time. (Shop time plus installation)  I am a fan of using the "The Piano Technician's Guide", from PTG of course. It's a rate book, like mechanics have. State's various times for ...

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    Hi Terry: I'm pretty sure it's in the archives, not sure if there's an article. Maybe Tips 'n Tricks section. There are two iterations of the flanges. One has the metal plate with a screw, and the other doesn't. The ones that don't have the plate ...

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    Paul M. wrote:   " If this is an upright, I usually replace the cords on the flanges while they're still attached to the rail." I know I really need to crawl out from living under this rock, but dog-gonnit, I do believe this is the first time I've ...

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    One more thought -- I've started to learn how to use shellac sticks and a burn-in knife to fill gouges. It's not all that hard, though I still have a ways to go before I'd call myself an expert. I don't know if it is compatible with a shiny polyester ...

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    P.S. A good thick cover and a strenuous educational program for student movers are probably your best bets. Or arrange for someone else to do the moving. At our concert hall, which hires a lot of students as crew, we had a little trouble when the Steinway ...

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    Hi, Geoff I haven't seen anything like that on the curved side, but I've seen two boards (painted black) on the straight side of some concert grands. Our SD-10 at Newport has them, factory original, I think. Designed for large concert grands which are ...

  • Posted in: CAUT

    Hi Geoff, I think what we decided on & I stalled back-stage in our recital hall at Texas Tech just may be exactly what you are looking for. I just was your post & do not have the info handy but I will be glad to send it to you on Monday along with pics. ...

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    Hi Patrick: The time sounds about right. Just multiply your hourly rate times your time estimate, add parts cost, pickup and delivery charges (mileage or ?). Pretty straightforward, actually. If this is an upright, I usually replace the cords on the ...

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    Hello  I am going to quote on a Yamaha flange replacement job and I don't want to undercharge (as I seem to be in the habit of doing). What do you all think is a fair price for this type of job?  I have replaced a few here and there on school pianos, ...

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    RE: humidity gauge

    Posted in: CAUT

    This little pocket hygrometer/thermometer is my favorite. Mine is about 6 years old and tests well when compared to other hygrometers. On sale for $25. https://www.thermoworks.com/Pocket-TH-RT819 The Smarthy has interesting features, and is very small, ...

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    RE: humidity gauge

    Posted in: CAUT

    Here's a source for several , courtesy of Roger Jolly (I haven't tried them out, but 6002 was what he recommended). Regards, Fred Sturm fssturm@comcast.net http://fredsturm.net www.artoftuning.com "Since everything is in our heads, ...

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    RE: humidity gauge

    Posted in: Pianotech

    Humidity gauge's, (Hygrometer's), are inherently unstable. They can drift a lot and calibration is not easy except on very expensive ones. That said, what has worked for me is periodic testing of the one I have and making a note of where it currently ...

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    RE: humidity gauge

    Posted in: CAUT

    Jeff, As mentioned in a previous post, I have been satisfied with the HOBO MX1101, but it's higher priced than what you want to spend. Hey, the good stuff usually costs more! Alan On 10/13/18, Jeff Farris via Piano Technicians Guild ------Original ...

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    humidity gauge

    Posted in: Pianotech

    Hi y'all, What's everybody's favorite humidity gauge? I need to replace the one in my tuning bag. Already have one in my shop, but want a smaller one for bringing around with me. And accuracy is important, but hoping to not spend $80-$100 bucks. Suggestions? ...

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    Piano case bumpers

    Posted in: Pianotech

    I service two very nice Yamaha grand pianos that live on stage at a local college. Unfortunately they are usually moved by students in whatever program is going to use them for any given performance. They are both on star dollies so they move easily, ...

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    I would second Zeno’s carrying case (cause I use it too,) and I have used the wire carrying contraption purchased from supply houses. It makes a nice display, but very cumbersome to load and unload. The CD case is simple and it works. Joe ------Original ...

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    RE: eroded key sides

    Posted in: CAUT

    You could also onlay a ¼" thick piece of wood for a new top to be installed. I have also transplanted keytops by making an onlay from a good salvaged set and installing on the recipient. You don't need to build out the complete side of the key, only the ...

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    Epoxy for sure, IMHO. I'd use something like West System. If the crack isn't very wide, use it unthickened. I'd also use a slow hardener. Open the crack with a screwdriver or whatever to whatever extend you can. Apply epoxy and use tools to work it down ...

  • Posted in: CAUT

    I have rebuilt key sides of otherwise still healthy keysticks using birch veneer. I use the new one piece keytops as my template. And I use calipers and a small machinists square to maintain and/or establish uniformity and symetry. The tool that helps ...

  • Posted in: CAUT

    Paul, Your response is so lovely, "someone struggled with" reflecting an appreciation of endeavors. (I didn't look closely at the photo, but am assuming there were problems that could have been chalked up to poor skills.) If we could come ...

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    RE: eroded key sides

    Posted in: CAUT

    Hi Zeno, I took the liberty of enhancing and downsizing your original image using GIMP. The keytop grain and keytop tail joints show very well. It appears to show that someone struggled with gluing the keytops back on. Paul. ------------------------------ ...

  • Posted in: CAUT

    Zeno- There's someone I've worked with in Westchesyer who does quite a decent job of this. Let me know if you'd be interested. ------------------------------ David Skolnik [RPT] Hastings-on-Hudson NY 914-231-7565 ------------------------------

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    RE: eroded key sides

    Posted in: CAUT

    Hi Richard, This is getting more and more complicated! I'm pretty sure these are the original ivory keytops, but who knows I guess. Thanks Zeno ------------------------------ Zeno Wood Brooklyn, NY ------------------------------

  • Posted in: Pianotech

    Yeah, once a wippen is out in my hand I tend to do all three pins. And if I have an underlever out in my hand I definitely do both pins. I find a sharp pencil putting down the date is better than the chalk. Gives more data, especially if you have repeated ...

  • Posted in: CAUT

    Zeno, I believe that Rick Wheeler of Roseland Piano Company near Portland, OR has done this job in the past -- shimming out the narrow keysticks so that when they are recovered the gaps are just right. I think he mostly replaces the keys now, but you ...

  • Posted in: CAUT

    Zeno, I think that the reason the gaps are so large is that someone filed the sides of the keys to fit current width key tops. The Univ. of NE had a couple of Masons that I thought had really wide keys, both naturals and the ebony keys. They were great ...

  • Posted in: CAUT

    I just wanted to mention that I had Walker do a set of keytops & bushings last year-has significant issues! I was very surprised since I had used them about 15 years or so ago & it was good work. I always hate to share negative but I would just hate to ...

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    RE: eroded key sides

    Posted in: CAUT

    Thanks Ed, that's a great description.  I'll take another look to see if the keys are trapezoids or rectangles. It's a 1918 model A.  I think there had been a good deal of erosion and someone before me thought to clean them up by holding them against ...

  • Posted in: CAUT

    Wow, those are big gaps! I'm wondering the same thing as Mr. Kelly: Would it be possible to just add properly fitting keytops? Do the key sticks themselves have any affect on the overall product? If it were possible to just use new keytops, I would think ...