CAUT

We have  a Jenco Celeste here that has had some repairs made to it. It needs more help as keys stick, action is very heavy and inconsistent, etc. It will be used in a concert next month.

I've determined that some of the nuts that affix the damper to the lifter rod have come off. However, without some type of action diagram or instructions for disassembling/reassembling this instrument, I am reluctant to dive into this repair. Does anyone have anything that might help? I reviewed the archives but didn't see any manuals. Thanks for any help you can offer.

------------------------------
Cheryl Marting
Southern Illinois University, Edwardsville
314-780-1330
------------------------------

We have  a Jenco Celeste here that has had some repairs made to it. It needs more help as keys stick, action is very heavy and inconsistent, etc. It will be used in a concert next month.

I've determined that some of the nuts that affix the damper to the lifter rod have come off. However, without some type of action diagram or instructions for disassembling/reassembling this instrument, I am reluctant to dive into this repair. Does anyone have anything that might help? I reviewed the archives but didn't see any manuals. Thanks for any help you can offer.

------------------------------
Cheryl Marting
Southern Illinois University, Edwardsville
314-780-1330
------------------------------

The interface for adding text didn't appear, so I just uploaded five photos. I did a fairly complete overhaul of a Jenco celeste a few years back, and took some 43 photos, thinking some day I'd put together something. The photos I uploaded show the action parts, and give an idea of how they interact. I can upload more it that seems useful.

First step is key bushings. They are a little odd, in being plastic coverings applied to narrow wood strips, and the mortises for the sharps are extra large. I ended up using "felt buckskin" I happened to have in a drawer, as about the right thickness. 

Having bushed keys, and leveled them, it is time to get at the action. Mine had wires bent every which way to make it work, so I disassembled all the parts (one level at a time) and straightened the wires as a first step. I also re-covered the hammers with woven action cloth, thinner in the top section than the bass. 

On reassembly, I started with dampers unattached. Set up the hammer blow - meaning adjust the nuts and wires (stickers) so that all are the same distance from the tone bars at rest. I came up with 40 mm, and created a blow gauge (long 1/8" dowel angled to a piece of wood of that length, so I could insinuate it into place under each hammer). This is in part by establishing how much key dip you are going to have. The dip needs to be enough to get the hammer to about 3 mm from the bar, and so that if you really squish the front punching it won't block. I used Wurzen punchings to minimize squeeze. The dip was, as I recall, a bit larger than my .040" Steinway block. I didn't want to go too deep, but wanted enough blow. But you can establish your own specs by experiment.

Having the blow set, and dip established, it is now time to attach dampers and regulate them. This is tricky, as they need to press against the tone bar, but they are acting on the hammer. If they press too much, they reduce hammer blow significantly, and introduce lost motion. So it is a bit of an iterative process, back and forth to get the target blow, no significant lost motion, and good damping.

The damper pedal is another can of worms, as each level needs to engage the same, and it is rickety wooden strips hinged not so well. Suffice it to say that that was a fair amount of monkeying around before everything was working well.

Once finished, it wasn't that bad. It sure isn't a Schiedmeyer, but it has full sized tone bars, unlike a Yamaha (which has one row of narrow tone bars above a grand action).

Let me know if you have questions, and I'll do my best to try to answer them. I figured it out as I went.

------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-25-2015 17:17
From: Fred Sturm
Subject: Celeste help needed



------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------

I guess I should add a couple more useful details. To disassemble:

Remove front and rear panels from the instrument.

Detach elastic retainers that separate the three ranks of "sticker" wires, stretching from side to side.

Detach the wire connecting the damper to the hammer assembly (snaps upward out of its bushing). 

Detach the sticker wire from the "wippen" (also snaps upward).

Unscrew hammer assembly flange.

Remove the spring from the wire eye on the assembly.

Pull that unit out. (You can probably leave the dampers in place unless you need to replace felt).

------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-25-2015 17:34
From: Fred Sturm
Subject: Celeste help needed

The interface for adding text didn't appear, so I just uploaded five photos. I did a fairly complete overhaul of a Jenco celeste a few years back, and took some 43 photos, thinking some day I'd put together something. The photos I uploaded show the action parts, and give an idea of how they interact. I can upload more it that seems useful.

First step is key bushings. They are a little odd, in being plastic coverings applied to narrow wood strips, and the mortises for the sharps are extra large. I ended up using "felt buckskin" I happened to have in a drawer, as about the right thickness. 

Having bushed keys, and leveled them, it is time to get at the action. Mine had wires bent every which way to make it work, so I disassembled all the parts (one level at a time) and straightened the wires as a first step. I also re-covered the hammers with woven action cloth, thinner in the top section than the bass. 

On reassembly, I started with dampers unattached. Set up the hammer blow - meaning adjust the nuts and wires (stickers) so that all are the same distance from the tone bars at rest. I came up with 40 mm, and created a blow gauge (long 1/8" dowel angled to a piece of wood of that length, so I could insinuate it into place under each hammer). This is in part by establishing how much key dip you are going to have. The dip needs to be enough to get the hammer to about 3 mm from the bar, and so that if you really squish the front punching it won't block. I used Wurzen punchings to minimize squeeze. The dip was, as I recall, a bit larger than my .040" Steinway block. I didn't want to go too deep, but wanted enough blow. But you can establish your own specs by experiment.

Having the blow set, and dip established, it is now time to attach dampers and regulate them. This is tricky, as they need to press against the tone bar, but they are acting on the hammer. If they press too much, they reduce hammer blow significantly, and introduce lost motion. So it is a bit of an iterative process, back and forth to get the target blow, no significant lost motion, and good damping.

The damper pedal is another can of worms, as each level needs to engage the same, and it is rickety wooden strips hinged not so well. Suffice it to say that that was a fair amount of monkeying around before everything was working well.

Once finished, it wasn't that bad. It sure isn't a Schiedmeyer, but it has full sized tone bars, unlike a Yamaha (which has one row of narrow tone bars above a grand action).

Let me know if you have questions, and I'll do my best to try to answer them. I figured it out as I went.

------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-25-2015 17:17
From: Fred Sturm
Subject: Celeste help needed



------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------

I'll also add that one spring operates everything: it raises the hammer, and it lowers the damper. So that spring has to be strong enough to accomplish those functions.

I wrote metal eye for what the spring attaches to. That was a mistaken memory. It goes into a hole in the bakelite hammer butt. In any case, replacing the hammer assembly, I found it easiest to get it into place (threading the two wires where they need to go), then pull the spring back with a finger, and press the end forward with thumb to put it into the hole. 

------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-25-2015 18:28
From: Fred Sturm
Subject: Celeste help needed

I guess I should add a couple more useful details. To disassemble:

Remove front and rear panels from the instrument.

Detach elastic retainers that separate the three ranks of "sticker" wires, stretching from side to side.

Detach the wire connecting the damper to the hammer assembly (snaps upward out of its bushing). 

Detach the sticker wire from the "wippen" (also snaps upward).

Unscrew hammer assembly flange.

Remove the spring from the wire eye on the assembly.

Pull that unit out. (You can probably leave the dampers in place unless you need to replace felt).

------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-25-2015 17:34
From: Fred Sturm
Subject: Celeste help needed

The interface for adding text didn't appear, so I just uploaded five photos. I did a fairly complete overhaul of a Jenco celeste a few years back, and took some 43 photos, thinking some day I'd put together something. The photos I uploaded show the action parts, and give an idea of how they interact. I can upload more it that seems useful.

First step is key bushings. They are a little odd, in being plastic coverings applied to narrow wood strips, and the mortises for the sharps are extra large. I ended up using "felt buckskin" I happened to have in a drawer, as about the right thickness. 

Having bushed keys, and leveled them, it is time to get at the action. Mine had wires bent every which way to make it work, so I disassembled all the parts (one level at a time) and straightened the wires as a first step. I also re-covered the hammers with woven action cloth, thinner in the top section than the bass. 

On reassembly, I started with dampers unattached. Set up the hammer blow - meaning adjust the nuts and wires (stickers) so that all are the same distance from the tone bars at rest. I came up with 40 mm, and created a blow gauge (long 1/8" dowel angled to a piece of wood of that length, so I could insinuate it into place under each hammer). This is in part by establishing how much key dip you are going to have. The dip needs to be enough to get the hammer to about 3 mm from the bar, and so that if you really squish the front punching it won't block. I used Wurzen punchings to minimize squeeze. The dip was, as I recall, a bit larger than my .040" Steinway block. I didn't want to go too deep, but wanted enough blow. But you can establish your own specs by experiment.

Having the blow set, and dip established, it is now time to attach dampers and regulate them. This is tricky, as they need to press against the tone bar, but they are acting on the hammer. If they press too much, they reduce hammer blow significantly, and introduce lost motion. So it is a bit of an iterative process, back and forth to get the target blow, no significant lost motion, and good damping.

The damper pedal is another can of worms, as each level needs to engage the same, and it is rickety wooden strips hinged not so well. Suffice it to say that that was a fair amount of monkeying around before everything was working well.

Once finished, it wasn't that bad. It sure isn't a Schiedmeyer, but it has full sized tone bars, unlike a Yamaha (which has one row of narrow tone bars above a grand action).

Let me know if you have questions, and I'll do my best to try to answer them. I figured it out as I went.

------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-25-2015 17:17
From: Fred Sturm
Subject: Celeste help needed



------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------

Here are three more photos, to make sure we are talking about the same design.

------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-25-2015 18:35
From: Fred Sturm
Subject: Celeste help needed

I'll also add that one spring operates everything: it raises the hammer, and it lowers the damper. So that spring has to be strong enough to accomplish those functions.

I wrote metal eye for what the spring attaches to. That was a mistaken memory. It goes into a hole in the bakelite hammer butt. In any case, replacing the hammer assembly, I found it easiest to get it into place (threading the two wires where they need to go), then pull the spring back with a finger, and press the end forward with thumb to put it into the hole. 

------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-25-2015 18:28
From: Fred Sturm
Subject: Celeste help needed

I guess I should add a couple more useful details. To disassemble:

Remove front and rear panels from the instrument.

Detach elastic retainers that separate the three ranks of "sticker" wires, stretching from side to side.

Detach the wire connecting the damper to the hammer assembly (snaps upward out of its bushing). 

Detach the sticker wire from the "wippen" (also snaps upward).

Unscrew hammer assembly flange.

Remove the spring from the wire eye on the assembly.

Pull that unit out. (You can probably leave the dampers in place unless you need to replace felt).

------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-25-2015 17:34
From: Fred Sturm
Subject: Celeste help needed

The interface for adding text didn't appear, so I just uploaded five photos. I did a fairly complete overhaul of a Jenco celeste a few years back, and took some 43 photos, thinking some day I'd put together something. The photos I uploaded show the action parts, and give an idea of how they interact. I can upload more it that seems useful.

First step is key bushings. They are a little odd, in being plastic coverings applied to narrow wood strips, and the mortises for the sharps are extra large. I ended up using "felt buckskin" I happened to have in a drawer, as about the right thickness. 

Having bushed keys, and leveled them, it is time to get at the action. Mine had wires bent every which way to make it work, so I disassembled all the parts (one level at a time) and straightened the wires as a first step. I also re-covered the hammers with woven action cloth, thinner in the top section than the bass. 

On reassembly, I started with dampers unattached. Set up the hammer blow - meaning adjust the nuts and wires (stickers) so that all are the same distance from the tone bars at rest. I came up with 40 mm, and created a blow gauge (long 1/8" dowel angled to a piece of wood of that length, so I could insinuate it into place under each hammer). This is in part by establishing how much key dip you are going to have. The dip needs to be enough to get the hammer to about 3 mm from the bar, and so that if you really squish the front punching it won't block. I used Wurzen punchings to minimize squeeze. The dip was, as I recall, a bit larger than my .040" Steinway block. I didn't want to go too deep, but wanted enough blow. But you can establish your own specs by experiment.

Having the blow set, and dip established, it is now time to attach dampers and regulate them. This is tricky, as they need to press against the tone bar, but they are acting on the hammer. If they press too much, they reduce hammer blow significantly, and introduce lost motion. So it is a bit of an iterative process, back and forth to get the target blow, no significant lost motion, and good damping.

The damper pedal is another can of worms, as each level needs to engage the same, and it is rickety wooden strips hinged not so well. Suffice it to say that that was a fair amount of monkeying around before everything was working well.

Once finished, it wasn't that bad. It sure isn't a Schiedmeyer, but it has full sized tone bars, unlike a Yamaha (which has one row of narrow tone bars above a grand action).

Let me know if you have questions, and I'll do my best to try to answer them. I figured it out as I went.

------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-25-2015 17:17
From: Fred Sturm
Subject: Celeste help needed



------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------

The interface for adding text didn't appear, so I just uploaded five photos. I did a fairly complete overhaul of a Jenco celeste a few years back, and took some 43 photos, thinking some day I'd put together something. The photos I uploaded show the action parts, and give an idea of how they interact. I can upload more it that seems useful.

First step is key bushings. They are a little odd, in being plastic coverings applied to narrow wood strips, and the mortises for the sharps are extra large. I ended up using "felt buckskin" I happened to have in a drawer, as about the right thickness. 

Having bushed keys, and leveled them, it is time to get at the action. Mine had wires bent every which way to make it work, so I disassembled all the parts (one level at a time) and straightened the wires as a first step. I also re-covered the hammers with woven action cloth, thinner in the top section than the bass. 

On reassembly, I started with dampers unattached. Set up the hammer blow - meaning adjust the nuts and wires (stickers) so that all are the same distance from the tone bars at rest. I came up with 40 mm, and created a blow gauge (long 1/8" dowel angled to a piece of wood of that length, so I could insinuate it into place under each hammer). This is in part by establishing how much key dip you are going to have. The dip needs to be enough to get the hammer to about 3 mm from the bar, and so that if you really squish the front punching it won't block. I used Wurzen punchings to minimize squeeze. The dip was, as I recall, a bit larger than my .040" Steinway block. I didn't want to go too deep, but wanted enough blow. But you can establish your own specs by experiment.

Having the blow set, and dip established, it is now time to attach dampers and regulate them. This is tricky, as they need to press against the tone bar, but they are acting on the hammer. If they press too much, they reduce hammer blow significantly, and introduce lost motion. So it is a bit of an iterative process, back and forth to get the target blow, no significant lost motion, and good damping.

The damper pedal is another can of worms, as each level needs to engage the same, and it is rickety wooden strips hinged not so well. Suffice it to say that that was a fair amount of monkeying around before everything was working well.

Once finished, it wasn't that bad. It sure isn't a Schiedmeyer, but it has full sized tone bars, unlike a Yamaha (which has one row of narrow tone bars above a grand action).

Let me know if you have questions, and I'll do my best to try to answer them. I figured it out as I went.

------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-25-2015 17:17
From: Fred Sturm
Subject: Celeste help needed



------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------