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Gebelin & Sperrhake Harpsichords

  • 1.  Gebelin & Sperrhake Harpsichords

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 08-09-2011 16:10
    We have a harpsichord at the school that would require complete rebuilding in order to be playable (it¹s been very abused/neglected, and subjected to extreme dryness.). I know nothing of harpsichords, and can¹t find anything on the Internet for this name (other than one of those generic company listings), so am wondering if anyone can provide information or recommendations regarding rebuilding this instrument: 8'4" 2-Manual. No name on cover/fallboard. Brass plaque to right of keyslip area says: GEBELIN Pianos 77, Rue St. Ferreol ­ MARSEILLE Might this be worth keeping for future rebuild? Pinblock all separated, soundboard huge cracks, etc. We also have a 4¹9² Sperrhake Single-Manual that¹s in much better shape, but it¹s not really playing right now. Also, we¹re missing the legs. Do you think we could obtain them? At what cost? What does it cost to recondition or rebuild a harpsichord? Nothing like cleaning out storage rooms for making interesting discoveries. Thanks for any help/recommendations. I am charged with making decisions/recommendations to the Chair. Paul -- Paul Milesi Staff Piano Technician Howard University Department of Music Washington, DC (202) 806-4565 Shop/Office (202) 246-3136 Cell/Text paul.milesi@howard.edu


  • 2.  RE:Gebelin & Sperrhake Harpsichords

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 08-09-2011 17:49
    My knee jerk reaction would be to dispose of the Gebelin, keep the Sperrhake for now, and see if there is actually demand for use of a harpsichord before proceeding further.

    Gebelin doesn't mean anything to me, and the plaque might just mean that a piano dealer by that name in Marseilles sold the instrument once upon a time. Or perhaps the name is in the Zuckermann book (we have a copy in our library, or maybe Ed Sutton will look it up in his). But the condition doesn't sound promising. The harpsichord market is saturated with instruments of various sorts, many of which are likely to be a better bet. A reasonably built Hubbard kit with solid board and block could be a good basis to begin from, and would probably cost a lot less than replacing a board and block.

    I doubt you would have any luck finding Sperrhake original equipment legs. I would just improvise one way or another. Often an unplayable harpsichord can be got back in playing order with a few hours regulation and troubleshooting, but that kind of diagnosis can't be made long distance. Sperrhake is not by any means my favorite, but can be a serviceable instrument I believe, from my limited experience. Better than Wittmeyer, anyway. But I'd far rather have a Hubbard or Dowd, or a Zuckermann (not to mention any number of smaller scale quality artisan makers).

    -------------------------------------------
    Fred Sturm
    University of New Mexico
    fssturm@unm.edu
    "The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge, but imagination." - Einstein
    -------------------------------------------




  • 3.  RE:Gebelin & Sperrhake Harpsichords

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 08-09-2011 23:05
    I searched for Gebelin pianos Marseilles and found http://www.gebelinmusique.com

    Seems like a big music store, selling Steinway, Roland, Fender, drums, CDs, etc., etc. So I assume this is the source of the name, and Gebelin is not the harpsichord maker. Perhaps a photo or two of the instrument might be helpful to get some feedback about it.

    -------------------------------------------
    Fred Sturm
    University of New Mexico
    fssturm@unm.edu
    "The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge, but imagination." - Einstein
    -------------------------------------------




  • 4.  RE:Gebelin & Sperrhake Harpsichords

    Posted 08-10-2011 11:51
    I agree with what Fred has written.
    If there is no demand for a harpsichord in the department,don't get involved in maintaining an instrument that won't be used.
    Sperrhake made a fairly simple one manual instrument. If it has leather plectra, they are probably dry rotted.
    You could replace them with delrin plectra and try to get one 8 foot register going for Christmas carols and continuo.

    -------------------------------------------
    Ed Sutton
    Editor
    Piano Technicians Journal
    ed440@mindspring.com
    704-536-7926

    -------------------------------------------








  • 5.  RE:Gebelin & Sperrhake Harpsichords

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 08-11-2011 11:17

    Ed wrote:
    >Sperrhake made a fairly simple one manual instrument. If it has leather plectra, they are probably
    >dry rotted. You could replace them with delrin plectra and try to get one 8 foot register going for
    >Christmas carols and continuo.

    Caution: those Sperrhake plastic tongues get brittle with age - replacing rotted leather plectra with delrin is an extremely delicate and time-consuming operation. The large mortise that leather plectra require leaves very little material on the sides of the plectra, and the tongues can crack there very easily. Gluing them back together (CA glue) is very painstaking...
    -------------------------------------------
    Israel Stein RPT
    A-Major Piano Services
    Albany, CA 94706
    510-558-0777
    custos3@comcast.net

    -------------------------------------------




  • 6.  RE:Gebelin & Sperrhake Harpsichords

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 08-11-2011 12:30
    What is the Sperrhake tongue design? Is it held by a metal pin to the jack body? Is the spring mounted on the jack? My memory is pretty sketchy as it has probably been 20 years since I dealt with one. I seem to remember wooden jacks. Maybe materials and design changed over time.

    I agree about the difficulty of switching from leather to delrin plectra. Essentially, I would decline to do such a job unless I replaced tongues to have slots for delrin. It is a matter of creating wedges to hold in the delrin, and they will shrink and some will fall out over time, not to mention the near impossibility of cutting those wedges precisely enough to begin with (leather most commonly, sometimes I've seen wood. I have also seen the whole mess glued in. Replacing a delrin plectrum then becomes an hour's work).

    I would also decline to replace a set of leather plectra. I have done enough of that to be convinced it just isn't worth the trouble. I read on someone's web site recently that they would charge $1000 per rank to replace a set of leather. I agree. Maybe there are circumstances where that would really be worth doing, but I haven't run across any. Let someone else do that job if it needs to be done.

    -------------------------------------------
    Fred Sturm
    University of New Mexico
    fssturm@unm.edu
    "The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge, but imagination." - Einstein
    -------------------------------------------



  • 7.  RE:Gebelin & Sperrhake Harpsichords

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 08-11-2011 13:34
    Fred,

    My memory is sketchy too - and I did this job about 4 years ago!  Ah, the blessings of middle age... (I haven't seen the instrument since, fortunately...)  To the best of my recollection, the plastic tongues were pin-mounted in a wooden jack.

    By the way, Paul, if you do decide to fool around with this Sperrhake, I have six unfinished harpsichord legs - they 'been floating around my shop for years now. You can have as many as you need for the cost of shipping from California. You'll have to figure out a way of attaching them to the case (or perhaps you should build a stand?) Which reminds me - maybe you should rummage around the storage rooms some more - you might find the stand for this instrument. I don't remember - did Sperrhake make their instruments with separate stands, or with attached legs? Or both?
     
    -------------------------------------------
    Israel Stein RPT
    A-Major Piano Services
    Albany, CA 94706
    510-558-0777
    custos3@comcast.net

    -------------------------------------------




  • 8.  RE:Gebelin & Sperrhake Harpsichords

    Posted 08-11-2011 15:59

    I replaced all the leather plectra on a four rank Challis many years ago. It was a big job,  but by no means all that difficult. First, I cut strips of hard shoe leather 5/8" wide, then cut  this into pieces with a felt guillontine. Each piece was then laid on its side and cut to a taper.The old plectra were tapered and not glued, but fitted by inserting from the back of the tongue and pulled tight, so they can be removed by pushing them out from the front. The voicing cut  is about 45 deg. I don't remember if Sperrhake plectra were exactly like this; I do recall them as being wood with a strip of bone down each edge, and there was a tongue adjusting screw from below. There were jack adjusting screws in the bottom with a large capstan head and very thin threads, which had a habit of breaking off. Another nasty  production harpsichord, along with Wittmayer, Neupert and others. But the worst harpsichords were Sabbatil.-I would never attempt to replace leather plectra with delrin unless, as Fred suggests, the tongues are changed too.But the harpsichord is hardly worth the trouble.-----------------------------------------
    Edward Sambell
    London ON
    519-474-7597
    -------------------------------------------








  • 9.  RE:Gebelin & Sperrhake Harpsichords

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 08-11-2011 17:37
    Thanks for sharing those details, Ted! That is an excellent procedure for preparing plectra, especially if you have taken care to find leather just the right thickness, a wee bit thicker than the mortise is tall so it will hold securely. My experience is in using the stuff the makers and suppliers offer, which is provided in strips that are both too tall and too wide. So the first challenge is to trim those to fit the mortise. It is one thing to cut leather 2.5 mm wide (or the like), another to try to trim 3.5 or 3.0 mm leather to 2.5.

    In any case, once you have got the right dimension material, with the right amount of stiffness (a lot), it is not a very precise operation to voice, as delrin can be. You can shave miniscule bits of delrin and trim to length very precisely. Leather is far coarser deal with. Essentially you just figure out a taper, cut that taper by eye before inserting it in the mortise, and after that it is just trimming length. It is essentially impossible to correct the taper once it has been made. You need 45 degrees or so at the tip so it will escape past the string, and usually any finesse is done with a tongue adjusting screw or just massaging the leather. As long as you aren't too particular it is OK, but being used to working with delrin, I find it maddening in the lack of finesse to touch and tone.

    But I'd be very interested to hear more details about procedures people use, what works, what doesn't. I try to keep an open mind, and would be happy to get a different perspective.

    Sambell "I replaced all the leather plectra on a four rank Challis many years ago."
    -------------------------------------------
    Fred Sturm
    University of New Mexico
    fssturm@unm.edu
    "The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge, but imagination." - Einstein
    -------------------------------------------






  • 10.  RE: Gebelin & Sperrhake Harpsichords

    Posted 08-11-2011 18:10
    Hi, The procedure that Ted describes (Thanks, Ted!) is very like what I used to use (and probably would again...but, only in some kind of purgatory) for working with leather plectra. My process differed, I think, only in using leather outsoles (much more available a couple of decades ago...and, in much better quality, too, than anything any of the supply houses had, even then. Part of the problem is that they simply had sheets or rolls of leather...which might or might not be either thick or stiff enough. With an outsole, you already had a differing density and flexibility of the leather as you worked through the thickness from one side to the other. Harry Ohlund, of Long Beach, CA, whom some of you may remember from a very long time ago is the one who put me on to this...and, while still more labor intensive that I would prefer, the system works very well. Here's a link to a page with some tools like I have used for the process. I think being able to see pictures of what I'm describing will make more sense: http://www.mainethread.com/cutting_tools.html Obviously, some preliminaries are knowing how wide and thick the eventual plectra need to be. Once that is determined, I used a Draw Gauge (like the Osborne #51 - 1/2) to cut strips of the outsole...cutting so that the most clean part of the cut was where the "hardest" leather would be (the part that would otherwise actually have hit the pavement). Once that is done, I found the "Skife", what I think is an Osborne original design, very useful for cleaning up the rougher side of the strips without too much waste or danger of cutting too deeply. This tool is also very useful for voicing. The Sloyd style knives or actual Skiving knives are useful for making precision cuts and/or index marks when you need them. I've personally found tools like incising knives and swivel cutters to be almost too "quick" for this kind of work...but, I'm a Luddite. As Fred and Ted note, getting the correct 45 (or so) degree angle is imporant, and that's another place that I found the Skife to be helpful. Fred's point about "massaging" the leather is really important. I've seen and followed some otherwise good to excellent jobs and pretty consistent seen that whatever voicing was done was accomplished with a knife while the leather was still new and relatively inflexible. Ah, rereading Fred's' comment below one other thing occurs to me about voicing leather plectra is that this is another reason why I think the outsole leather is vastly superior to just about anything non-delrin for this use. That said, though...part of the joy of working on period instruments is knowing that they're going to be uneven in so very many ways.... Kind regards. Horace At 02:37 PM 8/11/2011, you wrote: >Thanks for sharing those details, Ted! That is an excellent >procedure for preparing plectra, especially if you have taken care >to find leather just the right thickness, a wee bit thicker than the >mortise is tall so it will hold securely. My experience is in using >the stuff the makers and suppliers offer, which is provided in >strips that are both too tall and too wide. So the first challenge >is to trim those to fit the mortise. It is one thing to cut leather >2.5 mm wide (or the like), another to try to trim 3.5 or 3.0 mm leather to 2.5. > > In any case, once you have got the right dimension material, with > the right amount of stiffness (a lot), it is not a very precise > operation to voice, as delrin can be. You can shave miniscule bits > of delrin and trim to length very precisely. Leather is far coarser > deal with. Essentially you just figure out a taper, cut that taper > by eye before inserting it in the mortise, and after that it is > just trimming length. It is essentially impossible to correct the > taper once it has been made. You need 45 degrees or so at the tip > so it will escape past the string, and usually any finesse is done > with a tongue adjusting screw or just massaging the leather. As > long as you aren't too particular it is OK, but being used to > working with delrin, I find it maddening in the lack of finesse to > touch and tone. > > But I'd be very interested to hear more details about procedures > people use, what works, what doesn't. I try to keep an open mind, > and would be happy to get a different perspective. > > Sambell "I replaced all the leather plectra on a four rank Challis > many years ago." > ------------------------------------------- > Fred Sturm > University of New Mexico > fssturm@unm.edu > "The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge, but imagination." > - Einstein > ------------------------------------------- > > > > > > >


  • 11.  RE:Gebelin & Sperrhake Harpsichords

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 08-12-2011 14:04
    Thanks so much for that link, Horace! More tools to need ;-) But the right tool will actually do the job, rather than bollixing things up. I can see piano related uses as well, as in being able to adjust the thickness of leather precisely for trapwork on those pianos with non-adjusting rods.

    Certainly for re-leathering a set of jacks, the ability to control dimension precisely is a must. Tolerances are tighter than most things we see in stripping felt or cutting leather strips for piano use.

    Greeley: http://www.mainethread.com/cutting_tools.html
    -------------------------------------------
    Fred Sturm
    University of New Mexico
    fssturm@unm.edu
    "The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge, but imagination." - Einstein
    -------------------------------------------



  • 12.  RE:Gebelin & Sperrhake Harpsichords

    Posted 08-11-2011 19:21
    I service a 3 choir, 2 manual harpsichord. What does 'four rank' mean, please?

    Keith McGavern, RPT
    tune-repair@allegiance.tv
    -------------------------------------------
    From: Edward Sambell
    Subject: Gebelin & Sperrhake Harpsichords
    I replaced all the leather plectra on a four rank Challis many years ago. ...






  • 13.  RE:Gebelin & Sperrhake Harpsichords

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 08-11-2011 20:48
    Choir and rank are equivalent terms. Stop is another term often used. There are probably others that don't occur to me at the moment, all simply meaning a set of jacks in a register with one to a key. Occasionally there are two sets of jacks plucking the same strings (and example being a peau de buffle stop along with a delrin stop, both plucking a set of 8 foot strings. Peau de buffle is literally buffalo leather, a soft leather used in mid Baroque French harpsichords sometimes). Ted Sambell's instrument probably was 4' x 2 8' x 16' (one four foot, two eight foot, one 16 foot set of strings, each with a set of jacks).

    McGavern: "I service a 3 choir, 2 manual harpsichord. What does 'four rank' mean, please?"
    -------------------------------------------
    Fred Sturm
    University of New Mexico
    fssturm@unm.edu
    "The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge, but imagination." - Einstein
    -------------------------------------------





  • 14.  RE:Gebelin & Sperrhake Harpsichords

    Posted 08-11-2011 21:22

    Keith, this harpsichord 's disposition was 16'. 2 x 8' and a 4'. I met John Challis twice; once at his home in Detroit before he moved to New York and the second time here in London Ontario. A wealthy resident was a friend of his and ran his own music hall. He had bought other harpsichords from Challis and the second occasion was an inaugural concert many years late,.featuring a pedal harpsichord. Challis had supplied a three rank pedal harpsichord to E. Power Biggs, so our local man had to go one better and got a four rank. It had swell shutters too, like an organ. The regular harpsichord sat on top.Mr. Challis was there, touching up the regulation. He was a very opinionated man. I tuned a Steinway D for the  same event; He said to me, " The tuning you did is good enough for anyone, but from my experience with harpsichords, you should have tuned the bass first instead of last". I was amused, as the harpsichod world was always whining that piano technicians didn't understand the true nature of the harpsichord. I doubt that Challis had ever tuned a piano in his life, and in fact, for a builder he didn't understand the harpsichord either. The 16" is a total superfluity, and needs a deep touch to work,a and his addition of foot pedals to work the registration is the same error made by the German production makers, Zuckerman's book , 'The Modern Harpsichord' mentioned by Fred, is rightly criical of these and other practices, though I was a little put off by the fact he included his kit designs,and rationalized their shortcomings; he did not grant the same privilege to his targets, who might have had their reasons too. To get back to Challis's plectra. a later instrument, besides an anodized magnesium soundboard, had leather plectra which had beem saturated with something, possibly varnish and were like nails. His obsession was with durability, but the tone was undistinguished, not in the same league as a Dowd or other comparable maker.

    Ted 
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    Edward Sambell
    London ON
    519-474-7597
    -------------------------------------------








  • 15.  RE:Gebelin & Sperrhake Harpsichords

    Posted 08-11-2011 21:57
    Ed, Fred,

    Thank you both for such excellent explanations and additional information. I am truly impressed by a harpsichord having an additional 16' choir. Must be one long instrument. I also picked up on Ed saying such an instrument needs 'a deep touch'.
    Fascinating stuff!

    Keith McGavern, RPT
    tune-repair@allegiance.tv
    -------------------------------------------


  • 16.  RE:Gebelin & Sperrhake Harpsichords

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 08-12-2011 10:10
    Actually the 16 foot doesn't make an instrument all that long, about 1 - 2 feet longer. A third bridge, which leads to problems to solve. Much of the octave lower tuning is accomplished via low tension and wrapped strings in the bass (I assume the historic instruments with 16 foot had some kind of wrap, probably open). It does mean additional keydip if you want to stagger four successive plucks.

    McGavern: "I am truly impressed by a harpsichord having an additional 16' choir. Must be one long instrument.
    -------------------------------------------
    Fred Sturm
    University of New Mexico
    fssturm@unm.edu
    "The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge, but imagination." - Einstein
    -------------------------------------------







  • 17.  RE:Gebelin & Sperrhake Harpsichords

    Posted 08-12-2011 07:22

    I've replaced leather with delrin on a Challis and two old Zuckerboxes. My method was to use a thin strip of balsa wood to hold the plectrum in place in the mortise, then trim the wood flush with a sharp scalpel, then put a drop of CA glue on the balsa, which soaks in and hardens it. It took about 2 hours for a 5 octave rank, not including voicing.

    To speed up voicing, put the jacks with untrimmed plectra back in the instrument, press each key until the plectrum touches the string, then make a mark with a felt tip pen, showing where to make the first cut. This gets you started in a very close ballpark.

    Israel is right about the fragility of the Sperrhake tongues. I've agreed to requill two of these little monsters, so may have more to say shortly. I'm planning to use celcon plectra. Delrin on the Sperrhake spinet is too "Plosive."


    -------------------------------------------
    Ed Sutton
    Editor
    Piano Technicians Journal
    ed440@mindspring.com
    704-536-7926

    -------------------------------------------