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repairing a twisted clavichord

  • 1.  repairing a twisted clavichord

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 08-26-2012 23:32
    I was just given a clavichord, built from a Zuckermann kit, that has severe case warpage. It is otherwise pretty nice and reasonably well made. I would like to make it a playable instrument, for piano students to find out a little something about what a clavichord is and experience playing one.

    I am expecting to take it apart: unstring, remove outer case, try to get the inner case relatively square again, put it back together. I have actually done this once before with reasonable success, but it was pretty much invent as you go, and while it is quite functional, it still has a fair bit of warp to it.

    I am wondering if anyone has done this successfully, and if you might have some tips for how to go about it, and how to keep it from twisting as much in future. This one has a turnbuckle installed (original), which seems to have done little or nothing (and tightening or loosening at this point seems to have no effect on the twist) - and I can see why, as it acts on the bottom of the case, and the twisting force is at the top.

    The same thing happens on old squares. I have one of those, too, a Broadwood from 1803 or so, with severe twisting as well. I have puzzled over what could be done, and come up with no brilliant ideas (taking it apart and putting it back together is beyond my ambition). Any thoughts or leads on square pianos would also be appreciated.

    -------------------------------------------
    Fred Sturm
    University of New Mexico
    fssturm@unm.edu
    http://fredsturm.net
    "The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge, but imagination." - Einstein
    -------------------------------------------


  • 2.  RE:repairing a twisted clavichord

    Posted 08-27-2012 09:24
    Hi Fred,
     When this happened to my Zuckerman (kit I made in HS), I wrote Mr. Zuckerman. He recommended
    lowering the tension and then use Angle Iron to reinforce the cross brace.

    We had used double thickness Oak flooring and it still warped.

    Another friend of mine has one of these, and it is warped as well.

    We have another one upstairs, and it is also warped.

    I think you can put it in playable condition by fixing the bracing as he recommended.

    Others may have had more success. I think you'll always have a bit of warp, just not
    as much.

    You can put a small block of wood under the high end out of site to balance the case.

    Cheers,


    -------------------------------------------
    Richard Adkins
    Coe College Music Department
    Piano Technician
    Cedar Rapids IA
    -------------------------------------------








  • 3.  RE:repairing a twisted clavichord

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 08-27-2012 23:25
    Don McKechnie sent me the following privately by mistake (he intended it to go to the list):

    Hi Fred,

    I do not have any solutions just a warped instrument of my own I hope to get to some day. It is a Dolmetsch spinet with similar problems. The solution Richard received from Zuckermann might do and/or other wood reinforcement to the frame only. My concern is what the reinforcement will do to the overall tone of the instrument. There is a chance that resonance will suffer if the frame crates a situation where the case becomes too stiff. Invent and experiment does seem the best course at the moment.

    Regards,
    Don



    -------------------------------------------
    Fred Sturm
    University of New Mexico
    fssturm@unm.edu
    http://fredsturm.net
    "The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge, but imagination." - Einstein
    -------------------------------------------








  • 4.  RE:repairing a twisted clavichord

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 08-27-2012 23:41
    I fail to understand what is meant by the "cross brace." The instrument structure is a rectangular box, with what I'll describe as bass side, treble side, front side and back side, the inner rim portions of them being structural, outer rim pretty much just decorative. Those are the only really structural members as it looks to me, slightly stiffened by the plywood "bottom" (not actually all the way at the bottom, but rather about a third up from the bottom of the sides) that holds the keyboard and the belly rail. The words "cross brace" imply being diagonal to me, but maybe I am misunderstanding. I don't think adding some kind of stiffening anywhere would have much effect on tone production: pretty much confined to the soundboard, best I can tell, the sides ("rim) being too massive to contribute anything, and they probably don't rob much. Anyway, all I want is to get it square enough that I can put it on some kind of stand and make it work.

    BTW, I got the manual along with this instrument, and the following quote is somewhat amusing:

    "I have not included the construction of the case as being critical, because the case as described here is much stronger than it needs to be. Old instruments sometimes had an outer case 1/4" thick and a slim liner (no inner case at all) and on this hung two sets of strings! The instrument described here has an inner case over 3/4" thick and an outer case 1/2" thick, plus sturdy braces. Even if your joints are far from perfect, nothing can happen. The strings pull the case together and "lock" it. And one set of light clavichord strings does not exert much of a pull."

    Experience show he was wrong I guess.

    -------------------------------------------
    Fred Sturm
    University of New Mexico
    fssturm@unm.edu
    http://fredsturm.net
    "The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge, but imagination." - Einstein
    -------------------------------------------








  • 5.  RE:repairing a twisted clavichord

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 08-28-2012 00:09
    Last night I subscribed to the Yahoo clavichord group (http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/clavichord/, it's moderated, so you have to "apply" for membership), and this evening I did a bit of searching. Here is one detailed result of that search:

    Thomas Donahue asked:

    > What is anyone's experience with methods used to bypass the twist
    of a clavichord caused by string tension?

    I will spill the beans and declare my own 'secrets' - actually, not so
    secret - here.

    1. Build in a twist to start with: i.e., prepare the bottom with a
    twist in the opposite direction. Build the case on top of this so that
    it, too, starts off with the same reverse twist. If you judge the
    amount of reverse twist correctly, the instrument will become
    approximately flat when it is strung.

    2. On large instruments, let the grain of the bottom boards run
    parallel to the string band.

    Andrew Nolan said:

    > Many makers in historical times used a double layer bottom with one
    layer glued obliquely to the other

    I am not so sure about the 'many'. AFAIK this was a speciality of C.
    G. Hubert. One of his contemporaries refers, I think, to
    'improvements' he had made in the design of clavichords, and I suspect
    this is one of them. I am sceptical about its effectiveness. Any
    comments from those that have made Hubert clavichords?

    Owen wrote:

    > I've never found [diagonal] braces of much use, actually

    They do seem to work well on the large Swedish clavichords. Those
    instruments have large soundboxes, so the addition of a 'flying brace'
    running from the front right corner ofthe wrestplank to a point inside
    the soundbox close to the bottom and just to the right of where the
    balance rail ends does not significantly reduce the enclosed volume or
    affect the sound. A diagonal keywell brace then runs from this point
    across under the keys to a point roughly half-way along the fall-back
    rail; if continued in a straight line, it would arrive approximately
    at the back left corner of the case. This keywell brace is not
    attached to the bottom.

    This system, used in conjunction with a thick bottom of dense
    pitch-pine, must be adjudged a success in resisting twist. When I
    restored a Lindholm clavichord of approx 1792 I was surprised and
    pleased to note that before and after restoration it remained
    absolutely flat. I'd be interested to hear if Andy Lagerquist's
    instruments show the same twist-resistance. As far as I remember, a
    somewhat similar system is described in David Tannenberg's MS.

    Final point:

    I think it is generally a mistake to try to take the twist out of an
    instrument once it has occurred. (I was faced with this question when
    restoring the 1784 Hoffmann at Hatchlands, which is severely twisted).
    As an instrument twists, it actually becomes stiffer as all the joints
    etc. jam up closer. If you pull it straight again, you are opening up
    all these joints and the clavichord will lose tone and sustain as a
    result, and probably be less stable. The aim, I suggest, should be to
    stabilise the instrument in its twisted state, and adapt the action to
    work well in this state. With severely twisted square pianos, I admit,
    this may simply not be practical, in which case I suppose the only
    option is to dismantle the instrument almost completely and re-build
    it - preferably with a reverse twist!

    Peter Bavington
    Clavichord Maker
    291 Sprowston Mews
    LONDON
    E7 9AE
    Great Britain
    Tel. & fax: +44 (0)20 8519 1170
    E-mail: peter@...
    http://www.peter-bavington.co.uk


    -------------------------------------------
    Fred Sturm
    University of New Mexico
    fssturm@unm.edu
    http://fredsturm.net
    "The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge, but imagination." - Einstein
    -------------------------------------------








  • 6.  RE:repairing a twisted clavichord

    Posted 08-28-2012 10:15
    Hi Fred,

     In mine we lowered the tension and installed an oak strut/beam on the underside. It goes diagonally from the
    left rear corner you describe to the right front corner. It is the same dimension as the  2x2 case structure
    you describe.

     There was still some twist, but maybe only 1/2" or so.

    Mine was sold years ago, so I cannot look at it anymore, and rely on my memory. Imagine a rectangle with a
    diagonal strut or beam or tie rod if you will from the rear left (hitch pin side) to the front right (tuning pin side).

    Coe's Clavidhord is a bit later. The solution in this instrument is different
    from what Mr. Zuckerman told me. Maybe they came up with this.

    It has a  steel tie rod similar to a Mason & Hamlin grand
    running diagonally from the rear left to the right front.

    The steel tension rod /strut/tie rod has as turnbuckle.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strut

    This pierces the 2x2 wood surround you describe.

    It sounds like your instrument has no diagonal reinforcement.

    Maybe strut is not the right word...maybe "beam" would be a better word?

    Either way, you are trying to hold the instrument in place to resist compression
    and twist.

    You can retro install a " beam" like I did after you lower the tension...but this time I'd also add some angle iron.
     or better yet, perhaps have some steel cut and welded to fit the diagonal. Would 2x2 steel tube and welded
    angle plates to to screw into the 2x2 wood under structer be overkill?

    It is surprising how  hard wood beam will twist.
    In my case, it did help, though.

    What about thick pinblock material say 2"h x 3" w?

    Even the instrument with the steel tie rod has about 1/2" twist to it.

    But this is better than the twist in my Zuckerman I had before we put the diagonal beam/strut

    The Coe Zuckerman does not have a solid wood beam/strut, only the tie rod.

    I'm not sure if you could retro fit a tie rod, but possilby ala Mason & Hamlin, with
    a connector seated in the 2x2 undercase stucture.

    You will still have twist, you know, just not as much.
     
    I don't hear that the tone is affected by this. The "soundboard" is really a square piece of thin (maybe
    laminated, some early ones were) and doesn't sit over the "beam". There is no "tone" comming
    from this model's case, especially over the keys/tangent areas.

    Ed Kottick designed a later model. He may have some recommendation on
    repairing the early style Zuckerman Clavichord.

    I don't have a smart phone, or I'd take a picture.

    You can shim up the high side to elminate the rocking.
    How much twist do you have currently?
     
    I think no matter what you do, there'll be some
    twist, just not as much.

    Since it has been 40 years or more since mine was "repaired"...maybe Zuckerman has a better solution.
    What I did, did stabilize it. I believe the inner case is pine, and the outer case was solid cherry.

    Why not just giveZuckerman a call or an email.

    I'm sorry, I've not been of much help, and a picture would be better.
     
    I"ll be bringing my camera over tonight, maybe I'll snap a picture of the tie rod.
    If I can figure out how to upload a picture to this discussion, I will. Or I can
    send it to you privately.
     


    Cheers,
    Richard
    -------------------------------------------
    Richard Adkins
    Coe College Music Department
    Piano Technician
    Cedar Rapids IA
    -------------------------------------------








  • 7.  RE:repairing a twisted clavichord

    Posted 08-28-2012 10:46
    Check out this Burton fix, modeled after the Zuckerman Fix...

    http://harpsichordphoto.org/jeub/

    If your clavichord has a plywood bottom, like the Burton, this
    picture gives an idea of the diagonal "brace/strut/beam".

    Richard

    -------------------------------------------
    Richard Adkins
    Coe College
    Piano Technician
    Cedar Rapids IA
    -------------------------------------------








  • 8.  RE:repairing a twisted clavichord

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 08-28-2012 11:50
    Thanks, Richard, for some very helpful comments.

    My instrument has a turnbuckle installed diagonally. As I think about it, I believe the problem is that the plywood "bottom" (that serves as the keybed, and as a base for the belly rail) has warped, curved downward. So the turnbuckle has nothing to lever against as it tries to counter the string tension. Maybe the answer is, after lowering tension, to find a way to install a stiffener/brace on the top of the plywood bottom, if I can find a way to do that and still have the keyboard removable. I'll have to give it some thought.

    The twist is pretty severe, and I bet it was exacerbated by the turnbuckle. The instruction book makes much mention of using that turnbuckle to level the instrument. The tension from the strings above, and the tension from the turnbuckle below, pulled the instrument diagonally, racking it to the extent that there is a full 1.5" gap at the front between the left side of the case and the lid, and a 1.5" gap between one of the legs and the floor.

    The other clavichord I have personally has a twist more like 1/2", and that is quite manageable. I just built a stand for it (rather than have legs screwed to it as originally), and made the stand to fit the twist. But this much twist is more than can be lived with, so I need to correct it at least somewhat.

    -------------------------------------------
    Fred Sturm
    University of New Mexico
    fssturm@unm.edu
    http://fredsturm.net
    "The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge, but imagination." - Einstein
    -------------------------------------------








  • 9.  RE:repairing a twisted clavichord

    Posted 08-28-2012 22:52
    Here's the pix of the Zuckerman in our piano studio. The warp is only about 1/2 inch. Perhaps whomever messed with your Clavichord tightened the turn buckle too tight. I don't think much of the pin box 2x2s, nor to I agree w/Zuckerman's statement. The one I build 10 years earlier didn't have the rod/turnbuckle no any diagonal
    bracing....we put the diagonal wooden strut similar to what the turnbuckle is here. Zuckerman suggested to use "angle iron". I suppose you could lower the tension, remove the rod, and install a welded diagonal of thick tubular
    steel. Notice that the plywood here is not on the bottom, but is the bottom of the keybed. There is another 2 inches below, and also a bit more for the outer case. I dont' know how you'd get the rod out, though. Maybe
    you could put steel diagonals on both sides of the rod and have plates welded on each end of the diagonals
    that you could drill holes in, and then bolt into the pine 2x2. I can't imagine that holding very well, though.
    You might have to pile books, or lead theater fly weights on it with the tension down and let it sit for quite a while
    to get the twist out before doing anything. Well, best of luck, anyhow.

    -------------------------------------------
    Richard Adkins
    Piano Technician
    Coe College Music Department
    Cedar Rapids IA
    -------------------------------------------








  • 10.  RE:repairing a twisted clavichord

    Posted 08-29-2012 11:01

    Fred,
     You last post extracted from Clavichord - L ...sounds like the last word....but if you can reduce
    a 1.5" twist to .5" twist, it might be worth it. Mine did not have the plywood bottom like yours.
    That should have resisted the twist. Pinblock material might have helped instead of the lightweight
    pine, but it's too heavy...
    Building in the reverse twist is the way to go, but is it "authentic"....hahahah....

    All the best....

    Richard Adkins
    Piano Technician
    Cedar Rapids IA
    -------------------------------------------








  • 11.  RE:repairing a twisted clavichord

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 08-29-2012 14:32
    Hi Richard,
    My plywood bottom is definitely warped. It has a downward crown of 4 - 5 mm. The case has racked in the horizontal plane by about 1 cm (difference between where the front case corners and lid corners are) and twisted so that the left front is about 35 mm higher than the right front. I am more and more convinced that the culprit is over-tightening the turnbuckle, that is installed precisely as in the photos you posted. The manual talks about adjusting the turnbuckle to make the instrument level on a regular basis, noting you should do that before tuning. Eventually, I would say the added compression probably warped the bottom, which was the fulcrum against which the turnbuckle could resist the movement caused by the string tension, so everything went even more in that direction.

    I still think I can get it back to a workable condition. I'll have to get it at least partway apart to see, and it isn't top priority so it may be a while. Replacing the bottom is certainly one possibility, depending whether it is mortised  into the sides (the manual presents that possibility). I suppose that even so, it wouldn't be that hard to cut it out and remove the fragments from the mortise. Another thought is to cut a diagonal kerf in the bottom (in line with the turnbuckle) and install angle iron with one edge in the kerf, the other lying on top of the bottom piece. I'd have to get the instrument spread back to square before cutting and installing it. I don't want to get too complicated and spend too much time. Lots of things to ponder as I tune pianos ;-)

    -------------------------------------------
    Fred Sturm
    University of New Mexico
    fssturm@unm.edu
    http://fredsturm.net
    "The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge, but imagination." - Einstein
    -------------------------------------------