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How to remove scratches

  • 1.  How to remove scratches

    Posted 01-24-2013 18:00
      |   view attached
    From MICHAEL MEZHINSKY <pghpianotuning@yahoo.com>
    
    Hello,
    Can anyone suggest how?to remove scratches on the black lacquer finish fall board on a 1932 piano or make it look better?
    The picture is attached.
    Thanks for your help.
    Michael Mezhinsky RPT


  • 2.  How to remove scratches

    Posted 01-24-2013 19:05
    From Terry Farrell <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
    
    Sand/rub it out. And pray that you don't go through the finish. Get a good book (or google!) on this topic. Use the finest grit you can to get the job done. But you always have to be aware that you have no idea how thick the finish is!
    
    Terry Farrell
    
    
    On Jan 24, 2013, at 8:00 PM, MICHAEL MEZHINSKY wrote:
    
    > Hello,
    > Can anyone suggest how to remove scratches on the black lacquer finish fall board on a 1932 piano or make it look better?
    > The picture is attached.
    > Thanks for your help.
    > Michael Mezhinsky RPT
    >  
    >  
    > <mail[1].jpg>
    


  • 3.  How to remove scratches

    Posted 01-24-2013 21:15
    From Paul McCloud <pmc033@earthlink.net>
    
    Hi, Michael:
    You can use fine 0000 steel wool and water or other rubbing agent.  Use a gentle even pressure with a block.  Or use fine pumice with a large damp sponge.  Sprinkle a little on the sponge and rub as above.  Remove residue with cotton cloth in the same direction as when you rubbed it.  Most scratches will disappear.  Don't get too aggressive and you'll be ok.
    Paul McCloud
    San Diego
    
    


  • 4.  How to remove scratches

    Posted 01-25-2013 09:36
    From Douglas Gregg <classicpianodoc@gmail.com>
    
    Michael,
    I repair such scratches all the time with French polishing. I gave a
    seminar on it in Seattle. It is quite easy to do. It works so well for
    this kind of thing because it only adds a thin layer of shellac and
    there is no risk as there is with sanding and polishing. The beauty of
    French polishing is it fills the scratches selectively without
    building up finish on the non-scratched area. That is, it fills the
    valleys up to the top of the hills leaving a glass-smooth surface. It
    is also very safe and I often do it in the clients music room over an
    Oriental carpet with no concern of odor or spills or overspray. I use
    Konig Special French polish from www.konignorthamerica.com. Or google
    Konig french polish. They also have videos.
    
    The alternate quick and dirty solution is to spray the fall board with
    several coats of clear lacquer. Then fine sand and polish the new
    lacquer without the danger of damaging the black underneath. I find
    that polishing lacquer to a high polish is not that easy. I would sand
    it with 400 and then 600 paper with water, dry, and then give a final
    coat of spray that lays down flat. Do that outside if possible. The
    fumes are strong.  French polish still comes out better and is three
    times as fast. There is no waiting for lacquer to dry and no sanding.
    
    See my web site to see French polishing before, during, and after.
     www.classicpianodoc.com
    
    Doug Gregg
    Classic piano Doc
    Southold, NY
    
    Message: 1
    Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 17:00:01 -0800 (PST)
    From: MICHAEL MEZHINSKY <pghpianotuning@yahoo.com>
    To: "pianotech@ptg.or" <pianotech@ptg.org>
    Subject: [pianotech] How to remove scratches
    Message-ID:
            <1359075601.24779.YahooMailNeo@web160205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
    
    Hello,
    Can anyone suggest how?to remove scratches on the black lacquer finish
    fall board on a 1932 piano or make it look better?
    The picture is attached.
    Thanks for your help.
    Michael Mezhinsky RPT
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  • 5.  How to remove scratches

    Posted 01-26-2013 03:15
    From Gregor _ <karlkaputt@hotmail.com>
    
    Doug, that?s interesting. I found the USA website of K?nig and found French Polish. But on the German Site there is no Schellack or French Polish. I attented a class at K?nig about scratch repair with the focus on Polyester, but all other surfaces were tought as well. I don?t remember that they offer French Polish in Germany.
     
    How do you use the French Polish? As a quick and dirty method just applying with a bale or do you prepare the surface? What would you do with the fallboard example form Michael?
     
    Gregor
    
    ------------------------
    piano technician - tuner - dealer
    M?nster, Germany
    www.weldert.de
    
     
    > Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2013 11:36:20 -0500
    > From: classicpianodoc@gmail.com
    > To: pianotech@ptg.org
    > Subject: [pianotech]  How to remove scratches
    > 
    > Michael,
    > I repair such scratches all the time with French polishing. I gave a
    > seminar on it in Seattle. It is quite easy to do. It works so well for
    > this kind of thing because it only adds a thin layer of shellac and
    > there is no risk as there is with sanding and polishing. The beauty of
    > French polishing is it fills the scratches selectively without
    > building up finish on the non-scratched area. That is, it fills the
    > valleys up to the top of the hills leaving a glass-smooth surface. It
    > is also very safe and I often do it in the clients music room over an
    > Oriental carpet with no concern of odor or spills or overspray. I use
    > Konig Special French polish from www.konignorthamerica.com. Or google
    > Konig french polish. They also have videos.
    > 
    > The alternate quick and dirty solution is to spray the fall board with
    > several coats of clear lacquer. Then fine sand and polish the new
    > lacquer without the danger of damaging the black underneath. I find
    > that polishing lacquer to a high polish is not that easy. I would sand
    > it with 400 and then 600 paper with water, dry, and then give a final
    > coat of spray that lays down flat. Do that outside if possible. The
    > fumes are strong.  French polish still comes out better and is three
    > times as fast. There is no waiting for lacquer to dry and no sanding.
    > 
    > See my web site to see French polishing before, during, and after.
    >  www.classicpianodoc.com
    > 
    > Doug Gregg
    > Classic piano Doc
    > Southold, NY
    > 
    > Message: 1
    > Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 17:00:01 -0800 (PST)
    > From: MICHAEL MEZHINSKY <pghpianotuning@yahoo.com>
    > To: "pianotech@ptg.or" <pianotech@ptg.org>
    > Subject: [pianotech] How to remove scratches
    > Message-ID:
    >         <1359075601.24779.YahooMailNeo@web160205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
    > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
    > 
    > Hello,
    > Can anyone suggest how?to remove scratches on the black lacquer finish
    > fall board on a 1932 piano or make it look better?
    > The picture is attached.
    > Thanks for your help.
    > Michael Mezhinsky RPT
    > -------------- next part --------------
    > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
    > URL: <http://mail.ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech/attachments/20130124/dfc8a452/attachment-0001.htm>
    > -------------- next part --------------
    > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
    > Name: mail[1].jpg
    > Type: image/jpeg
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    > URL: <http://mail.ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech/attachments/20130124/dfc8a452/attachment-0001.jpg>
     		 	   		  


  • 6.  How to remove scratches

    Posted 01-26-2013 06:51
    From Jon Page <jonpage@comcast.net>
    
    Depending on how deep the scratches are you can eliminate or diminish 
    them with 400 and 600 wet-or-Dry paper. Use water with a drop of dish 
    detergent in the container as a lubricant.  Finish off with gray 
    ScotchBrite or 4/0 steel wool and then give it two coats of wax, 
    preferably Rain Dance Paste Wax.
    
    The decal is buried under several clear coats of lacquer, so you are 
    sanding this clear topcoat. If you rub thru the clear and exposed the 
    black coats underneath, you will have to spray clear to build it back 
    up. In which case, the whole fallboard surface would need to be cleaned 
    and lightly sanded for the application of the clear coats. Then 
    rubbed-out with the aforementioned procedure.
    
    My advise is to place it in the hands of a refinisher. Because a spray 
    can is not sufficient and rubbing out the finish to remove the orange 
    peel or dust particles is not for the untrained. The scratches extend 
    over the decal and if you rub thru and hit the decal...the whole thing 
    might have to be sanded down past the old decal and new sealer, new 
    black coats applied, new decal, new clear coats then rubbed out.
    
    -- 
    Regards,
    
    Jon Page
    


  • 7.  How to remove scratches

    Posted 01-27-2013 20:09
    From MICHAEL MEZHINSKY <pghpianotuning@yahoo.com>
    
    Thank you for expert advice. I am going to try French polish. Konig have $100 minimum order. I am going to give them a call and try to order one bottle tomorrow. Doug, what's the difference between brands of French polish? Local Rockler store sells some.
    ?
    Thanks again,
    Michael
     
    
    ________________________________
     From: Jon Page <jonpage@comcast.net>
    To: pianotech@ptg.org 
    Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2013 8:50 AM
    Subject: Re: [pianotech] How to remove scratches
      
    Depending on how deep the scratches are you can eliminate or diminish them with 400 and 600 wet-or-Dry paper. Use water with a drop of dish detergent in the container as a lubricant.? Finish off with gray ScotchBrite or 4/0 steel wool and then give it two coats of wax, preferably Rain Dance Paste Wax.
    
    The decal is buried under several clear coats of lacquer, so you are sanding this clear topcoat. If you rub thru the clear and exposed the black coats underneath, you will have to spray clear to build it back up. In which case, the whole fallboard surface would need to be cleaned and lightly sanded for the application of the clear coats. Then rubbed-out with the aforementioned procedure.
    
    My advise is to place it in the hands of a refinisher. Because a spray can is not sufficient and rubbing out the finish to remove the orange peel or dust particles is not for the untrained. The scratches extend over the decal and if you rub thru and hit the decal...the whole thing might have to be sanded down past the old decal and new sealer, new black coats applied, new decal, new clear coats then rubbed out.
    
    -- Regards,
    
    Jon Page


  • 8.  How to remove scratches

    Posted 01-27-2013 19:38
    From Douglas Gregg <classicpianodoc@gmail.com>
    
    Gregor,
    It is strange that the German Konig site does not advertise Special
    French Polish. I checked my bottle and it is imported. The phone
    number in Europe is +49 (0) 61 01 - 53 60 0.
    
    You should be able to get the Special French Polish in Europe. The
    method is much simpler than traditional French Polish as a lubricant
    is included in the shellac so that it is only one step. Make a pad
    with a ball of wool or gauze and wrap it very tightly with a 20 cm
    square of well washed old Tee shirt that is stretchy. I use a golf
    ball sized pad or smaller. There should be no creases or folds in the
    application surface. On a new pad, first open the cover cloth and wet
    the gauze well with Konig French polish but not so that it will drip
    when squeezed hard. Put the cover back on and put about 10 more drops
    on the stretched surface of the pad. The pad should be just damp
    enough so that when you tap it on the back of your hand, it is just
    damp.  Keep it stretched by twisting the remaining cloth on the back
    of the pad and hold onto the twisted part. Practice on a scrap piece
    of a  finished piece of wood like an upright piano top or key cover or
    other furniture piece. It should be at least 20 cm square.  Start by
    coming down on the wood from a low angle without stopping- Like
    landing and airplane.  The application should be in a circular motion
    that is fairly rapid. You can make overlapping circles and move around
    until the whole piece is finished. The pad will leave a slight trail
    on the finished area. This is drying shellac that should be drying
    almost instantly. You will have to replenish the pad with about 10
    drops of polish every few minutes. Watch for the trail of drying
    shellac. When it does not leave a trail, replenish. You can work a
    piece with several applications on the same area before it starts to
    get a bit sticky. This may take up to 30 minutes of polishing. You may
    be done before that happens.  If it gets sticky, let it dry for about
    30 minutes and resume polishing.  When you have polished it
    sufficiently, take some long swipes with the grain to remove any swirl
    marks. These should be minimal. Let it dry and you are done. It can be
    waxed or not the next day.  This is a very brief description. I have a
    video but have not put it on the web yet for lack of time and
    knowledge of the process to post it. It is on my to do list.
    
     I am sorry that there is not one on the web. I have looked and have
    not found a decent one.  Konig does sell a rather good video on this
    and other techniques that is well worth buying. It also tells how to
    do scratch and dent repair with Konig hard wax and retouching with
    their markers and other techniques. I have been doing this kind of
    work for years and learned some good techniques from their video. Good
    luck. Be sure to practice on one or two pieces first. It does not take
    long to learn, even on your own.
    
    Doug Gregg
    Classic Piano Doc
    www.classicpianodoc.com
    
    
    
    Message: 3
    Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 11:15:26 +0100
    From: Gregor _ <karlkaputt@hotmail.com>
    To: "pianotech@ptg.org" <pianotech@ptg.org>
    Subject: Re: [pianotech] How to remove scratches
    Message-ID: <DUB104-W22898FC8B35B3E8EB74575D41A0@phx.gbl>
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
    
    
    Doug, that?s interesting. I found the USA website of K?nig and found
    French Polish. But on the German Site there is no Schellack or French
    Polish. I attented a class at K?nig about scratch repair with the
    focus on Polyester, but all other surfaces were tought as well. I
    don?t remember that they offer French Polish in Germany.
    
    How do you use the French Polish? As a quick and dirty method just
    applying with a bale or do you prepare the surface? What would you do
    with the fallboard example form Michael?
    
    Gregor
    
    ------------------------
    piano technician - tuner - dealer
    M?nster, Germany
    www.weldert.de
    
    
    > Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2013 11:36:20 -0500
    > From: classicpianodoc@gmail.com
    > To: pianotech@ptg.org
    > Subject: [pianotech]  How to remove scratches
    >
    > Michael,
    > I repair such scratches all the time with French polishing. I gave a
    > seminar on it in Seattle. It is quite easy to do. It works so well for
    > this kind of thing because it only adds a thin layer of shellac and
    > there is no risk as there is with sanding and polishing. The beauty of
    > French polishing is it fills the scratches selectively without
    > building up finish on the non-scratched area. That is, it fills the
    > valleys up to the top of the hills leaving a glass-smooth surface. It
    > is also very safe and I often do it in the clients music room over an
    > Oriental carpet with no concern of odor or spills or overspray. I use
    > Konig Special French polish from www.konignorthamerica.com. Or google
    > Konig french polish. They also have videos.
    >
    > The alternate quick and dirty solution is to spray the fall board with
    > several coats of clear lacquer. Then fine sand and polish the new
    > lacquer without the danger of damaging the black underneath. I find
    > that polishing lacquer to a high polish is not that easy. I would sand
    > it with 400 and then 600 paper with water, dry, and then give a final
    > coat of spray that lays down flat. Do that outside if possible. The
    > fumes are strong.  French polish still comes out better and is three
    > times as fast. There is no waiting for lacquer to dry and no sanding.
    >
    > See my web site to see French polishing before, during, and after.
    >  www.classicpianodoc.com
    >
    > Doug Gregg
    > Classic piano Doc
    > Southold, NY
    >
    > Message: 1
    > Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 17:00:01 -0800 (PST)
    > From: MICHAEL MEZHINSKY <pghpianotuning@yahoo.com>
    > To: "pianotech@ptg.or" <pianotech@ptg.org>
    > Subject: [pianotech] How to remove scratches
    > Message-ID:
    >         <1359075601.24779.YahooMailNeo@web160205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
    > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
    >
    > Hello,
    > Can anyone suggest how?to remove scratches on the black lacquer finish
    > fall board on a 1932 piano or make it look better?
    > The picture is attached.
    > Thanks for your help.
    > Michael Mezhinsky RPT
    


  • 9.  How to remove scratches

    Posted 01-27-2013 20:12
    From lim hock seng <limhseng@gmail.com>
    
    Hi Gregg,
    Thanks for sharing.
    Does the Konig French polish works on polyester surface scratches?
    
    Lim
    On Jan 28, 2013 10:43 AM, "Douglas Gregg" <classicpianodoc@gmail.com> wrote:
    
    > Gregor,
    > It is strange that the German Konig site does not advertise Special
    > French Polish. I checked my bottle and it is imported. The phone
    > number in Europe is +49 (0) 61 01 - 53 60 0.
    >
    > You should be able to get the Special French Polish in Europe. The
    > method is much simpler than traditional French Polish as a lubricant
    > is included in the shellac so that it is only one step. Make a pad
    > with a ball of wool or gauze and wrap it very tightly with a 20 cm
    > square of well washed old Tee shirt that is stretchy. I use a golf
    > ball sized pad or smaller. There should be no creases or folds in the
    > application surface. On a new pad, first open the cover cloth and wet
    > the gauze well with Konig French polish but not so that it will drip
    > when squeezed hard. Put the cover back on and put about 10 more drops
    > on the stretched surface of the pad. The pad should be just damp
    > enough so that when you tap it on the back of your hand, it is just
    > damp.  Keep it stretched by twisting the remaining cloth on the back
    > of the pad and hold onto the twisted part. Practice on a scrap piece
    > of a  finished piece of wood like an upright piano top or key cover or
    > other furniture piece. It should be at least 20 cm square.  Start by
    > coming down on the wood from a low angle without stopping- Like
    > landing and airplane.  The application should be in a circular motion
    > that is fairly rapid. You can make overlapping circles and move around
    > until the whole piece is finished. The pad will leave a slight trail
    > on the finished area. This is drying shellac that should be drying
    > almost instantly. You will have to replenish the pad with about 10
    > drops of polish every few minutes. Watch for the trail of drying
    > shellac. When it does not leave a trail, replenish. You can work a
    > piece with several applications on the same area before it starts to
    > get a bit sticky. This may take up to 30 minutes of polishing. You may
    > be done before that happens.  If it gets sticky, let it dry for about
    > 30 minutes and resume polishing.  When you have polished it
    > sufficiently, take some long swipes with the grain to remove any swirl
    > marks. These should be minimal. Let it dry and you are done. It can be
    > waxed or not the next day.  This is a very brief description. I have a
    > video but have not put it on the web yet for lack of time and
    > knowledge of the process to post it. It is on my to do list.
    >
    >  I am sorry that there is not one on the web. I have looked and have
    > not found a decent one.  Konig does sell a rather good video on this
    > and other techniques that is well worth buying. It also tells how to
    > do scratch and dent repair with Konig hard wax and retouching with
    > their markers and other techniques. I have been doing this kind of
    > work for years and learned some good techniques from their video. Good
    > luck. Be sure to practice on one or two pieces first. It does not take
    > long to learn, even on your own.
    >
    > Doug Gregg
    > Classic Piano Doc
    > www.classicpianodoc.com
    >
    >
    >
    > Message: 3
    > Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 11:15:26 +0100
    > From: Gregor _ <karlkaputt@hotmail.com>
    > To: "pianotech@ptg.org" <pianotech@ptg.org>
    > Subject: Re: [pianotech] How to remove scratches
    > Message-ID: <DUB104-W22898FC8B35B3E8EB74575D41A0@phx.gbl>
    > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
    >
    >
    > Doug, that?s interesting. I found the USA website of K?nig and found
    > French Polish. But on the German Site there is no Schellack or French
    > Polish. I attented a class at K?nig about scratch repair with the
    > focus on Polyester, but all other surfaces were tought as well. I
    > don?t remember that they offer French Polish in Germany.
    >
    > How do you use the French Polish? As a quick and dirty method just
    > applying with a bale or do you prepare the surface? What would you do
    > with the fallboard example form Michael?
    >
    > Gregor
    >
    > ------------------------
    > piano technician - tuner - dealer
    > M?nster, Germany
    > www.weldert.de
    >
    >
    > > Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2013 11:36:20 -0500
    > > From: classicpianodoc@gmail.com
    > > To: pianotech@ptg.org
    > > Subject: [pianotech]  How to remove scratches
    > >
    > > Michael,
    > > I repair such scratches all the time with French polishing. I gave a
    > > seminar on it in Seattle. It is quite easy to do. It works so well for
    > > this kind of thing because it only adds a thin layer of shellac and
    > > there is no risk as there is with sanding and polishing. The beauty of
    > > French polishing is it fills the scratches selectively without
    > > building up finish on the non-scratched area. That is, it fills the
    > > valleys up to the top of the hills leaving a glass-smooth surface. It
    > > is also very safe and I often do it in the clients music room over an
    > > Oriental carpet with no concern of odor or spills or overspray. I use
    > > Konig Special French polish from www.konignorthamerica.com. Or google
    > > Konig french polish. They also have videos.
    > >
    > > The alternate quick and dirty solution is to spray the fall board with
    > > several coats of clear lacquer. Then fine sand and polish the new
    > > lacquer without the danger of damaging the black underneath. I find
    > > that polishing lacquer to a high polish is not that easy. I would sand
    > > it with 400 and then 600 paper with water, dry, and then give a final
    > > coat of spray that lays down flat. Do that outside if possible. The
    > > fumes are strong.  French polish still comes out better and is three
    > > times as fast. There is no waiting for lacquer to dry and no sanding.
    > >
    > > See my web site to see French polishing before, during, and after.
    > >  www.classicpianodoc.com
    > >
    > > Doug Gregg
    > > Classic piano Doc
    > > Southold, NY
    > >
    > > Message: 1
    > > Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 17:00:01 -0800 (PST)
    > > From: MICHAEL MEZHINSKY <pghpianotuning@yahoo.com>
    > > To: "pianotech@ptg.or" <pianotech@ptg.org>
    > > Subject: [pianotech] How to remove scratches
    > > Message-ID:
    > >         <1359075601.24779.YahooMailNeo@web160205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
    > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
    > >
    > > Hello,
    > > Can anyone suggest how?to remove scratches on the black lacquer finish
    > > fall board on a 1932 piano or make it look better?
    > > The picture is attached.
    > > Thanks for your help.
    > > Michael Mezhinsky RPT
    >
    


  • 10.  How to remove scratches

    Posted 01-28-2013 06:49
    From Gregor _ <karlkaputt@hotmail.com>
    
    Doug, thank you for your detailed answer. I am familiar with French Polish. During my apprenticeship I completely polished some pianos, but that?s more than 20 years ago ;-)  I was just wondering if that K?nig stuff is something special or just shellac. Usually I would prepare the surface by sanding and use oil for polishing and some kind of pore filler (Bimsmehl is the German word, could not find a translation for that) and after polishing I would use some benzoic acid to remove the oil. But using a very special stuff in a one step polishing procedure sounds quite charming :-)
     
    Concerning removing scratches on poyester: no, French Polish does not work. The best method on polyester is just very fine sanding (if needed at all, depends on the depth of the scratches) and polishing with a machine.
     
    Gregor
    
    ------------------------
    piano technician - tuner - dealer
    M?nster, Germany
    www.weldert.de
    
     
    > Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 21:37:48 -0500
    > From: classicpianodoc@gmail.com
    > To: pianotech@ptg.org
    > Subject: Re: [pianotech] How to remove scratches
    > 
    > Gregor,
    > It is strange that the German Konig site does not advertise Special
    > French Polish. I checked my bottle and it is imported. The phone
    > number in Europe is +49 (0) 61 01 - 53 60 0.
    > 
    > You should be able to get the Special French Polish in Europe. The
    > method is much simpler than traditional French Polish as a lubricant
    > is included in the shellac so that it is only one step. Make a pad
    > with a ball of wool or gauze and wrap it very tightly with a 20 cm
    > square of well washed old Tee shirt that is stretchy. I use a golf
    > ball sized pad or smaller. There should be no creases or folds in the
    > application surface. On a new pad, first open the cover cloth and wet
    > the gauze well with Konig French polish but not so that it will drip
    > when squeezed hard. Put the cover back on and put about 10 more drops
    > on the stretched surface of the pad. The pad should be just damp
    > enough so that when you tap it on the back of your hand, it is just
    > damp.  Keep it stretched by twisting the remaining cloth on the back
    > of the pad and hold onto the twisted part. Practice on a scrap piece
    > of a  finished piece of wood like an upright piano top or key cover or
    > other furniture piece. It should be at least 20 cm square.  Start by
    > coming down on the wood from a low angle without stopping- Like
    > landing and airplane.  The application should be in a circular motion
    > that is fairly rapid. You can make overlapping circles and move around
    > until the whole piece is finished. The pad will leave a slight trail
    > on the finished area. This is drying shellac that should be drying
    > almost instantly. You will have to replenish the pad with about 10
    > drops of polish every few minutes. Watch for the trail of drying
    > shellac. When it does not leave a trail, replenish. You can work a
    > piece with several applications on the same area before it starts to
    > get a bit sticky. This may take up to 30 minutes of polishing. You may
    > be done before that happens.  If it gets sticky, let it dry for about
    > 30 minutes and resume polishing.  When you have polished it
    > sufficiently, take some long swipes with the grain to remove any swirl
    > marks. These should be minimal. Let it dry and you are done. It can be
    > waxed or not the next day.  This is a very brief description. I have a
    > video but have not put it on the web yet for lack of time and
    > knowledge of the process to post it. It is on my to do list.
    > 
    >  I am sorry that there is not one on the web. I have looked and have
    > not found a decent one.  Konig does sell a rather good video on this
    > and other techniques that is well worth buying. It also tells how to
    > do scratch and dent repair with Konig hard wax and retouching with
    > their markers and other techniques. I have been doing this kind of
    > work for years and learned some good techniques from their video. Good
    > luck. Be sure to practice on one or two pieces first. It does not take
    > long to learn, even on your own.
    > 
    > Doug Gregg
    > Classic Piano Doc
    > www.classicpianodoc.com
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > Message: 3
    > Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 11:15:26 +0100
    > From: Gregor _ <karlkaputt@hotmail.com>
    > To: "pianotech@ptg.org" <pianotech@ptg.org>
    > Subject: Re: [pianotech] How to remove scratches
    > Message-ID: <DUB104-W22898FC8B35B3E8EB74575D41A0@phx.gbl>
    > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
    > 
    > 
    > Doug, that?s interesting. I found the USA website of K?nig and found
    > French Polish. But on the German Site there is no Schellack or French
    > Polish. I attented a class at K?nig about scratch repair with the
    > focus on Polyester, but all other surfaces were tought as well. I
    > don?t remember that they offer French Polish in Germany.
    > 
    > How do you use the French Polish? As a quick and dirty method just
    > applying with a bale or do you prepare the surface? What would you do
    > with the fallboard example form Michael?
    > 
    > Gregor
    > 
    > ------------------------
    > piano technician - tuner - dealer
    > M?nster, Germany
    > www.weldert.de
    > 
    > 
    > > Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2013 11:36:20 -0500
    > > From: classicpianodoc@gmail.com
    > > To: pianotech@ptg.org
    > > Subject: [pianotech]  How to remove scratches
    > >
    > > Michael,
    > > I repair such scratches all the time with French polishing. I gave a
    > > seminar on it in Seattle. It is quite easy to do. It works so well for
    > > this kind of thing because it only adds a thin layer of shellac and
    > > there is no risk as there is with sanding and polishing. The beauty of
    > > French polishing is it fills the scratches selectively without
    > > building up finish on the non-scratched area. That is, it fills the
    > > valleys up to the top of the hills leaving a glass-smooth surface. It
    > > is also very safe and I often do it in the clients music room over an
    > > Oriental carpet with no concern of odor or spills or overspray. I use
    > > Konig Special French polish from www.konignorthamerica.com. Or google
    > > Konig french polish. They also have videos.
    > >
    > > The alternate quick and dirty solution is to spray the fall board with
    > > several coats of clear lacquer. Then fine sand and polish the new
    > > lacquer without the danger of damaging the black underneath. I find
    > > that polishing lacquer to a high polish is not that easy. I would sand
    > > it with 400 and then 600 paper with water, dry, and then give a final
    > > coat of spray that lays down flat. Do that outside if possible. The
    > > fumes are strong.  French polish still comes out better and is three
    > > times as fast. There is no waiting for lacquer to dry and no sanding.
    > >
    > > See my web site to see French polishing before, during, and after.
    > >  www.classicpianodoc.com
    > >
    > > Doug Gregg
    > > Classic piano Doc
    > > Southold, NY
    > >
    > > Message: 1
    > > Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 17:00:01 -0800 (PST)
    > > From: MICHAEL MEZHINSKY <pghpianotuning@yahoo.com>
    > > To: "pianotech@ptg.or" <pianotech@ptg.org>
    > > Subject: [pianotech] How to remove scratches
    > > Message-ID:
    > >         <1359075601.24779.YahooMailNeo@web160205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
    > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
    > >
    > > Hello,
    > > Can anyone suggest how?to remove scratches on the black lacquer finish
    > > fall board on a 1932 piano or make it look better?
    > > The picture is attached.
    > > Thanks for your help.
    > > Michael Mezhinsky RPT
     		 	   		  


  • 11.  How to remove scratches

    Posted 01-28-2013 07:22
    From Gregor _ <karlkaputt@hotmail.com>
    
    On a German piano forum is an ongoing discussion about that topic (in German, of course):
     
    http://www.clavio.de/forum/klavier-keyboard-kaufen-reparieren/16878-schellack-ausbessern.html
     
    In the first posting you can see some pictures and some links to more pictures. The colleage made it like this:
     
    First he "sanded" with a sanding sponge: http://www.dreamline.at/gipsshop/images/product_images/info_images/49087.jpg
    You can see that sponge in action here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSSIKJNzKtM
    Then he made the first pass with black shellac and oil, but with less alcohol, so that the polish is thick
    After 3-4 days he made a second pass, but now with more alcohol and lesser shellac, so that the melange is thinner.
    After further 3 days he made the third pass without oil, lesser shellac and more alcohol, but never too thin/liquid. This time he used not black, but transparent shellac.
    After 10 days he polished with a high gloss polish.
     
    Gregor
     
    
    
    ------------------------
    piano technician - tuner - dealer
    M?nster, Germany
    www.weldert.de
    
     
    From: karlkaputt@hotmail.com
    To: pianotech@ptg.org
    Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 14:49:28 +0100
    Subject: Re: [pianotech] How to remove scratches
    
    
    
    
    
    Doug, thank you for your detailed answer. I am familiar with French Polish. During my apprenticeship I completely polished some pianos, but that?s more than 20 years ago ;-)  I was just wondering if that K?nig stuff is something special or just shellac. Usually I would prepare the surface by sanding and use oil for polishing and some kind of pore filler (Bimsmehl is the German word, could not find a translation for that) and after polishing I would use some benzoic acid to remove the oil. But using a very special stuff in a one step polishing procedure sounds quite charming :-)
     
    Concerning removing scratches on poyester: no, French Polish does not work. The best method on polyester is just very fine sanding (if needed at all, depends on the depth of the scratches) and polishing with a machine.
     
    Gregor
    
    ------------------------
    piano technician - tuner - dealer
    M?nster, Germany
    www.weldert.de
    
     
    > Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 21:37:48 -0500
    > From: classicpianodoc@gmail.com
    > To: pianotech@ptg.org
    > Subject: Re: [pianotech] How to remove scratches
    > 
    > Gregor,
    > It is strange that the German Konig site does not advertise Special
    > French Polish. I checked my bottle and it is imported. The phone
    > number in Europe is +49 (0) 61 01 - 53 60 0.
    > 
    > You should be able to get the Special French Polish in Europe. The
    > method is much simpler than traditional French Polish as a lubricant
    > is included in the shellac so that it is only one step. Make a pad
    > with a ball of wool or gauze and wrap it very tightly with a 20 cm
    > square of well washed old Tee shirt that is stretchy. I use a golf
    > ball sized pad or smaller. There should be no creases or folds in the
    > application surface. On a new pad, first open the cover cloth and wet
    > the gauze well with Konig French polish but not so that it will drip
    > when squeezed hard. Put the cover back on and put about 10 more drops
    > on the stretched surface of the pad. The pad should be just damp
    > enough so that when you tap it on the back of your hand, it is just
    > damp.  Keep it stretched by twisting the remaining cloth on the back
    > of the pad and hold onto the twisted part. Practice on a scrap piece
    > of a  finished piece of wood like an upright piano top or key cover or
    > other furniture piece. It should be at least 20 cm square.  Start by
    > coming down on the wood from a low angle without stopping- Like
    > landing and airplane.  The application should be in a circular motion
    > that is fairly rapid. You can make overlapping circles and move around
    > until the whole piece is finished. The pad will leave a slight trail
    > on the finished area. This is drying shellac that should be drying
    > almost instantly. You will have to replenish the pad with about 10
    > drops of polish every few minutes. Watch for the trail of drying
    > shellac. When it does not leave a trail, replenish. You can work a
    > piece with several applications on the same area before it starts to
    > get a bit sticky. This may take up to 30 minutes of polishing. You may
    > be done before that happens.  If it gets sticky, let it dry for about
    > 30 minutes and resume polishing.  When you have polished it
    > sufficiently, take some long swipes with the grain to remove any swirl
    > marks. These should be minimal. Let it dry and you are done. It can be
    > waxed or not the next day.  This is a very brief description. I have a
    > video but have not put it on the web yet for lack of time and
    > knowledge of the process to post it. It is on my to do list.
    > 
    >  I am sorry that there is not one on the web. I have looked and have
    > not found a decent one.  Konig does sell a rather good video on this
    > and other techniques that is well worth buying. It also tells how to
    > do scratch and dent repair with Konig hard wax and retouching with
    > their markers and other techniques. I have been doing this kind of
    > work for years and learned some good techniques from their video. Good
    > luck. Be sure to practice on one or two pieces first. It does not take
    > long to learn, even on your own.
    > 
    > Doug Gregg
    > Classic Piano Doc
    > www.classicpianodoc.com
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > Message: 3
    > Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 11:15:26 +0100
    > From: Gregor _ <karlkaputt@hotmail.com>
    > To: "pianotech@ptg.org" <pianotech@ptg.org>
    > Subject: Re: [pianotech] How to remove scratches
    > Message-ID: <DUB104-W22898FC8B35B3E8EB74575D41A0@phx.gbl>
    > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
    > 
    > 
    > Doug, that?s interesting. I found the USA website of K?nig and found
    > French Polish. But on the German Site there is no Schellack or French
    > Polish. I attented a class at K?nig about scratch repair with the
    > focus on Polyester, but all other surfaces were tought as well. I
    > don?t remember that they offer French Polish in Germany.
    > 
    > How do you use the French Polish? As a quick and dirty method just
    > applying with a bale or do you prepare the surface? What would you do
    > with the fallboard example form Michael?
    > 
    > Gregor
    > 
    > ------------------------
    > piano technician - tuner - dealer
    > M?nster, Germany
    > www.weldert.de
    > 
    > 
    > > Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2013 11:36:20 -0500
    > > From: classicpianodoc@gmail.com
    > > To: pianotech@ptg.org
    > > Subject: [pianotech]  How to remove scratches
    > >
    > > Michael,
    > > I repair such scratches all the time with French polishing. I gave a
    > > seminar on it in Seattle. It is quite easy to do. It works so well for
    > > this kind of thing because it only adds a thin layer of shellac and
    > > there is no risk as there is with sanding and polishing. The beauty of
    > > French polishing is it fills the scratches selectively without
    > > building up finish on the non-scratched area. That is, it fills the
    > > valleys up to the top of the hills leaving a glass-smooth surface. It
    > > is also very safe and I often do it in the clients music room over an
    > > Oriental carpet with no concern of odor or spills or overspray. I use
    > > Konig Special French polish from www.konignorthamerica.com. Or google
    > > Konig french polish. They also have videos.
    > >
    > > The alternate quick and dirty solution is to spray the fall board with
    > > several coats of clear lacquer. Then fine sand and polish the new
    > > lacquer without the danger of damaging the black underneath. I find
    > > that polishing lacquer to a high polish is not that easy. I would sand
    > > it with 400 and then 600 paper with water, dry, and then give a final
    > > coat of spray that lays down flat. Do that outside if possible. The
    > > fumes are strong.  French polish still comes out better and is three
    > > times as fast. There is no waiting for lacquer to dry and no sanding.
    > >
    > > See my web site to see French polishing before, during, and after.
    > >  www.classicpianodoc.com
    > >
    > > Doug Gregg
    > > Classic piano Doc
    > > Southold, NY
    > >
    > > Message: 1
    > > Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 17:00:01 -0800 (PST)
    > > From: MICHAEL MEZHINSKY <pghpianotuning@yahoo.com>
    > > To: "pianotech@ptg.or" <pianotech@ptg.org>
    > > Subject: [pianotech] How to remove scratches
    > > Message-ID:
    > >         <1359075601.24779.YahooMailNeo@web160205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
    > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
    > >
    > > Hello,
    > > Can anyone suggest how?to remove scratches on the black lacquer finish
    > > fall board on a 1932 piano or make it look better?
    > > The picture is attached.
    > > Thanks for your help.
    > > Michael Mezhinsky RPT
     		 	   		   		 	   		  


  • 12.  How to remove scratches

    Posted 01-29-2013 07:59
    From Douglas Gregg <classicpianodoc@gmail.com>
    
    Michael,
    Shellacs vary A GREAT DEAL.  The regular bulleye shellac is not
    dewaxed and is cloudy in the can. It does not harden as hard as
    dewaxed and is a bit slower drying. There is also an amber (used to be
    called orange) that is similar. Those are 3 lbs shellac flakes per
    gallon (called 3 lb). There is also Bullseye Sealcoat that is dewaxed
    and is a 2 lb cut. The spray cans are blond shellac that is also
    dewaxed , probably most like the Sealcoat.
    
    Then there is shellac flakes that come in a range of colors from super
    blond to garnet (redish brown). These have to be dissolved in alcohol
    before use.
    
    The Konig is "special" because they have formulated it for French
    polishing and included a lubricant so an oil does not have to be added
    to the pad to prevent sticking of the pad to the finish. With
    traditional French polishing I use olive or raw linseed oil on the
    pad. I have French polished with all of the above mentioned shellacs
    including waxed ones. It can be done, but it is much more difficult
    than the Konig product. I don't recommend it unless you are
    experienced.  Also, a fine super high polish is harder to achieve
    without the Konig formulation. I have tried. Mohawk also makes a
    French polish that is supposed to be similar in that it does not need
    a lubricant. It works, but in my hands is not much better than doing
    the traditional French polishing with oil. I could not get a very high
    polish with it that did not need a final waxing.
    
    Doug Gregg
    Classic Piano Doc
    
    
    
    Message: 4
    Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 19:09:23 -0800 (PST)
    From: MICHAEL MEZHINSKY <pghpianotuning@yahoo.com>
    To: "pianotech@ptg.org" <pianotech@ptg.org>
    Subject: Re: [pianotech] How to remove scratches
    Message-ID:
            <1359342563.62991.YahooMailNeo@web160202.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
    
    Thank you for expert advice. I am going to try French polish. Konig
    have $100 minimum order. I am going to give them a call and try to
    order one bottle tomorrow. Doug, what's the difference between brands
    of French polish? Local Rockler store sells some.
    ?
    Thanks again,
    Michael
    


  • 13.  How to remove scratches

    Posted 01-29-2013 16:22
    From MICHAEL MEZHINSKY <pghpianotuning@yahoo.com>
    
    Doug,
    I learned piano work in Moscow, Russia in the?70's. At that?time I used French polish. It was basically shellac and alcohol and we used a little oil. My problem was the marks on a black?piano if I didn't move pad certain?ways. I am?older now and it is time to return to basics. I ordered Konig French polish from Ruth?Phillips 888-622-7426 and?received it today. $23.10+ shipping. 
    Thanks,
    Michael
     
    
    ________________________________
     From: Douglas Gregg <classicpianodoc@gmail.com>
    To: pianotech@ptg.org 
    Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 9:58 AM
    Subject: Re: [pianotech] How to remove scratches
      
    Michael,
    Shellacs vary A GREAT DEAL.? The regular bulleye shellac is not
    dewaxed and is cloudy in the can. It does not harden as hard as
    dewaxed and is a bit slower drying. There is also an amber (used to be
    called orange) that is similar. Those are 3 lbs shellac flakes per
    gallon (called 3 lb). There is also Bullseye Sealcoat that is dewaxed
    and is a 2 lb cut. The spray cans are blond shellac that is also
    dewaxed , probably most like the Sealcoat.
    
    Then there is shellac flakes that come in a range of colors from super
    blond to garnet (redish brown). These have to be dissolved in alcohol
    before use.
    
    The Konig is "special" because they have formulated it for French
    polishing and included a lubricant so an oil does not have to be added
    to the pad to prevent sticking of the pad to the finish. With
    traditional French polishing I use olive or raw linseed oil on the
    pad. I have French polished with all of the above mentioned shellacs
    including waxed ones. It can be done, but it is much more difficult
    than the Konig product. I don't recommend it unless you are
    experienced.? Also, a fine super high polish is harder to achieve
    without the Konig formulation. I have tried. Mohawk also makes a
    French polish that is supposed to be similar in that it does not need
    a lubricant. It works, but in my hands is not much better than doing
    the traditional French polishing with oil. I could not get a very high
    polish with it that did not need a final waxing.
    
    Doug Gregg
    Classic Piano Doc
    
    
    
    Message: 4
    Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 19:09:23 -0800 (PST)
    From: MICHAEL MEZHINSKY <pghpianotuning@yahoo.com>
    To: "pianotech@ptg.org" <pianotech@ptg.org>
    Subject: Re: [pianotech] How to remove scratches
    Message-ID:
    ? ? ? ? <1359342563.62991.YahooMailNeo@web160202.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
    
    Thank you for expert advice. I am going to try French polish. Konig
    have $100 minimum order. I am going to give them a call and try to
    order one bottle tomorrow. Doug, what's the difference between brands
    of French polish? Local Rockler store sells some.
    ?
    Thanks again,
    Michael


  • 14.  How to remove scratches

    Posted 01-29-2013 08:13
    From Douglas Gregg <classicpianodoc@gmail.com>
    
    Gregor,
    You were doing traditional French polishing. It is much slower with
    more steps and more drying. I can French polish a piano that is
    scratched up in about 3 or 4 hours start to finish. Less time if it is
    not too scratched.
    
    I will differ a bit about French Polishing a polyester finish. It can
    be done. I have done it and it looks good. However, if possible, it is
    always better to sand and polish out a polyester finish if it has
    enough thickness because it will be more durable than the shellac. If
    you do French polish polyester, you should do the whole piece as it is
    a slightly different sheen and is a little difficult to blend to the
    polyester. There is no issue with adhesion. Shellac sticks to
    practically any surface.
    
    Doug Gregg
    Classic Piano Doc
    
    
    Message: 5
    Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 14:49:28 +0100
    From: Gregor _ <karlkaputt@hotmail.com>
    To: "pianotech@ptg.org" <pianotech@ptg.org>
    Subject: Re: [pianotech] How to remove scratches
    Message-ID: <DUB104-W63D0C0C454F44C09F93D9CD4180@phx.gbl>
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
    
    
    Doug, thank you for your detailed answer. I am familiar with French
    Polish. During my apprenticeship I completely polished some pianos,
    but that?s more than 20 years ago ;-)  I was just wondering if that
    K?nig stuff is something special or just shellac. Usually I would
    prepare the surface by sanding and use oil for polishing and some kind
    of pore filler (Bimsmehl is the German word, could not find a
    translation for that) and after polishing I would use some benzoic
    acid to remove the oil. But using a very special stuff in a one step
    polishing procedure sounds quite charming :-)
    
    Concerning removing scratches on poyester: no, French Polish does not
    work. The best method on polyester is just very fine sanding (if
    needed at all, depends on the depth of the scratches) and polishing
    with a machine.
    
    Gregor
    
    ------------------------
    piano technician - tuner - dealer
    M?nster, Germany
    www.weldert.de
    


  • 15.  How to remove scratches

    Posted 01-30-2013 02:39
    From Gregor _ <karlkaputt@hotmail.com>
    
    Doug,
     
    when you say that you can polish a piano in 4 hours you are talking about that Special French Polish by K?nig? Sounds great. If I got you right, you do the same motoric movements like with the classical French Polish, but the K?nig stuff dries quicker, needs no extra oil and no special finishing to remove oil. I am just wondering why they don?t sell it in Germany. Perhaps there are some ingredients that are prohibited in the European Union? That topic made me more than curious. Hm, I think I will ask K?nig and post the answer in a few days here.
     
    Gregor
    
    ------------------------
    piano technician - tuner - dealer
    M?nster, Germany
    www.weldert.de
    
     
    > Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 10:12:55 -0500
    > From: classicpianodoc@gmail.com
    > To: pianotech@ptg.org
    > Subject: Re: [pianotech] How to remove scratches
    > 
    > Gregor,
    > You were doing traditional French polishing. It is much slower with
    > more steps and more drying. I can French polish a piano that is
    > scratched up in about 3 or 4 hours start to finish. Less time if it is
    > not too scratched.
    > 
    > I will differ a bit about French Polishing a polyester finish. It can
    > be done. I have done it and it looks good. However, if possible, it is
    > always better to sand and polish out a polyester finish if it has
    > enough thickness because it will be more durable than the shellac. If
    > you do French polish polyester, you should do the whole piece as it is
    > a slightly different sheen and is a little difficult to blend to the
    > polyester. There is no issue with adhesion. Shellac sticks to
    > practically any surface.
    > 
    > Doug Gregg
    > Classic Piano Doc
    > 
    > 
    > Message: 5
    > Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 14:49:28 +0100
    > From: Gregor _ <karlkaputt@hotmail.com>
    > To: "pianotech@ptg.org" <pianotech@ptg.org>
    > Subject: Re: [pianotech] How to remove scratches
    > Message-ID: <DUB104-W63D0C0C454F44C09F93D9CD4180@phx.gbl>
    > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
    > 
    > 
    > Doug, thank you for your detailed answer. I am familiar with French
    > Polish. During my apprenticeship I completely polished some pianos,
    > but that?s more than 20 years ago ;-)  I was just wondering if that
    > K?nig stuff is something special or just shellac. Usually I would
    > prepare the surface by sanding and use oil for polishing and some kind
    > of pore filler (Bimsmehl is the German word, could not find a
    > translation for that) and after polishing I would use some benzoic
    > acid to remove the oil. But using a very special stuff in a one step
    > polishing procedure sounds quite charming :-)
    > 
    > Concerning removing scratches on poyester: no, French Polish does not
    > work. The best method on polyester is just very fine sanding (if
    > needed at all, depends on the depth of the scratches) and polishing
    > with a machine.
    > 
    > Gregor
    > 
    > ------------------------
    > piano technician - tuner - dealer
    > M?nster, Germany
    > www.weldert.de