PianoTech Archive

  • 1.  Mold

    Posted 12-01-2012 13:43
      |   view attached
    From richarducci@comcast.net
    
    List,
    Looked at a Cable console covered in mold.
    How labor intensive is this to put right?
    Will send another photo as well.
    


  • 2.  Mold

    Posted 12-01-2012 15:53
    From John Ross <jrpiano@bellaliant.net>
    
    You have to get rid of the cause first.
    For an action I have had good luck using an air compressor gun with glass beads. Pressure to be determined by trial and error, the keys can also be done this way.
    If it is in the keyed, probably a refelting is called for.
    Wipe the wood work with a damp cloth, bleach and water.
    John Ross
    Windsor, Nova Scotia.
    On 2012-12-01, at 4:42 PM, richarducci@comcast.net wrote:
    
    > List,
    > Looked at a Cable console covered in mold.
    > How labor intensive is this to put right?
    > Will send another photo as well.
    > 
    > <photo.JPG>
    > 
    > 
    > Rick Ucci
    > Uccipiano.com
    > 609-677-0444
    


  • 3.  Mold

    Posted 12-02-2012 06:15
    From Barrie Heaton <piano@a440.co.uk>
    
    Do not use an air compressor mould is not good for you, the pours can 
    cause all sorts of health problems if they get into your lungs  A HEPA 
    vacuum cleaner is effective for this purpose. Wear gloves, mask and eye 
    protection when doing this cleanup.
    
    Bleach is no good for moulds on pours items.
    
    Non-porous surface
    
    A mixture of 80% white whine vinegar and 20% water. Vinegar is a mild 
    acid which can kill 82% of mold species. However it also has the 
    advantages of being natural and safe. Vinegar is non-toxic and doesn't 
    give off dangerous fumes like bleach does.
    
    Bleach can kill virtually every species of indoor mold that it comes 
    into contact with, along with its spores, leaving a surface sanitized 
    and resistant to future mold growth. however, using bleach is only 
    effective if the mold is growing on non-porous materials such as tiles, 
    bathtubs, glass and countertops. Bleach cannot penetrate into porous 
    materials and so it does not come into contact with mold growing beneath 
    the surface of materials such as wood and felt. Using bleach on these 
    materials will kill the mold above the surface but the roots within the 
    material will remain and the mold will soon return.
    Porous surfaces eg wood
    
    A mixture of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide. This can be got from any chemist. 
    Hydrogen peroxide kills mold as it is anti-fungal as well as anti-viral 
    also, anti-bacterial. Hydrogen peroxide is a good alternative to 
    chlorine bleach because it is safe to use and doesn't damage the 
    environment, nor does it leave behind toxic residue or produce toxic 
    fumes like chlorine bleach does. Since hydrogen peroxide is a bleaching 
    agent it may also help fade the stain mould leaves behind. Spot test 
    hydrogen peroxide on the material you're going to be cleaning to make 
    sure it won't fade the material's colours.
    
    Tea Tree Oil At the ratio of 1 teaspoon per cup of water. Of all the 
    natural mould killing solutions tea tree oil is the most effective. 
    Although it is also expensive, a small amount of tea tree oil goes a 
    long way in killing mould. Tea tree oil is an essential oil which is 
    harmless to humans and pets. Tea tree oil is anti fungal, capable of 
    killing all types of moulds. Tea tree oil is antibacterial as well. 
    Spray the solution on the mouldy surface or use a clean cloth with the 
    tea tree oil solution to clean away mould.
    
    The other problem with mould on felt is it attracts moths
    
    
    Barrie
    
    
    In message <B59D6F68-6F88-4B6A-9573-5E2F3A18E4D9@bellaliant.net>, John 
    Ross <jrpiano@bellaliant.net> writes
    >You have to get rid of the cause first.
    >For an action I have had good luck using an air compressor gun with
    >glass beads. Pressure to be determined by trial and error, the keys can
    >also be done this way.
    >If it is in the keyed, probably a refelting is called for.
    >Wipe the wood work with a damp cloth, bleach and water.
    >John Ross
    >Windsor, Nova Scotia.
    >On 2012-12-01, at 4:42 PM, richarducci@comcast.net wrote:
    >
    >  List,
    >  Looked at a Cable console covered in mold.
    >  How labor intensive is this to put right?
    >  Will send another photo as well.
    >
    >  <photo.JPG>
    >
    >
    >  Rick Ucci
    >  Uccipiano.com
    >  609-677-0444
    
    -- 
    Barrie Heaton      PGP key on request           http://www.a440.co.uk/
    AcryliKey Ivory Repair System UK ?              http://www.acrylikey.co.uk/
    Piano Castors                                   http://www.piano-safety-
    castors.co.uk/
    


  • 4.  Mold

    Posted 12-02-2012 15:29
    From "Chuck Vetter" <chuck@soundsgreatonline.com>
    
    I had a small Kimball grand that was very moldy. My attitude was one of what can it hurt to try? So, I called a funeral director friend and asked him what he uses that kills every harmful mold, microbe, etc. He gave me a bottle of Medica DC that kills a very broad spectrum of little buggers. I sprayed it generously, exposed the piano and parts to gentle air movement, wiped everything down very thoroughly, reassembled.........regulated, tuned, and turned. Have serviced it for over 5 years without a hint of mold return. 
    Chuck Vetter
    
    
    From: John Ross 
    Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2012 4:53 PM
    To: pianotech@ptg.org 
    Subject: Re: [pianotech] Mold
    
    You have to get rid of the cause first. 
    For an action I have had good luck using an air compressor gun with glass beads. Pressure to be determined by trial and error, the keys can also be done this way.
    If it is in the keyed, probably a refelting is called for.
    Wipe the wood work with a damp cloth, bleach and water.
    John Ross
    Windsor, Nova Scotia.
    
    On 2012-12-01, at 4:42 PM, richarducci@comcast.net wrote:
    
    
      List,
      Looked at a Cable console covered in mold.
      How labor intensive is this to put right?
      Will send another photo as well.
    
      <photo.JPG>
    
    
      Rick Ucci
      Uccipiano.com
      609-677-0444
    


  • 5.  Mold

    Posted 12-04-2012 13:59
    From Noah Frere <noahfrere@gmail.com>
    
    I disassembled the particularly moldy parts, including all the action parts
    of 1 piano, that had acquired a good deal of mold this summer while i was
    not around, and brushed the parts with toothbrushes and/or brass brush
    while the vacuum ran a couple inches away. I used vinegar/water and baking
    soda on the other parts (keybed, etc.) I did buy an oinizer/ozone generator
    though, and it did help with odors around the home, so I think I will
    ozonate all those action parts since I didn't actually spray them with an
    killer. Ozone kills mold.
    
    
    On Sun, Dec 2, 2012 at 5:29 PM, Chuck Vetter <chuck@soundsgreatonline.com>wrote:
    
    >   I had a small Kimball grand that was very moldy. My attitude was one of
    > what can it hurt to try? So, I called a funeral director friend and asked
    > him what he uses that kills every harmful mold, microbe, etc. He gave me a
    > bottle of Medica DC that kills a very broad spectrum of little buggers. I
    > sprayed it generously, exposed the piano and parts to gentle air movement,
    > wiped everything down very thoroughly, reassembled.........regulated,
    > tuned, and turned. Have serviced it for over 5 years without a hint of mold
    > return.
    > Chuck Vetter
    >
    >
    >  *From:* John Ross <jrpiano@bellaliant.net>
    > *Sent:* Saturday, December 01, 2012 4:53 PM
    > *To:* pianotech@ptg.org
    > *Subject:* Re: [pianotech] Mold
    >
    > You have to get rid of the cause first.
    > For an action I have had good luck using an air compressor gun with glass
    > beads. Pressure to be determined by trial and error, the keys can also be
    > done this way.
    > If it is in the keyed, probably a refelting is called for.
    > Wipe the wood work with a damp cloth, bleach and water.
    > John Ross
    > Windsor, Nova Scotia.
    >  On 2012-12-01, at 4:42 PM, richarducci@comcast.net wrote:
    >
    > List,
    > Looked at a Cable console covered in mold.
    > How labor intensive is this to put right?
    > Will send another photo as well.
    >
    > <photo.JPG>
    >
    >
    > Rick Ucci
    > Uccipiano.com
    > 609-677-0444
    >
    >
    >
    >
    


  • 6.  Mold

    Posted 12-04-2012 16:56
    From Euphonious Thumpe <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>
    
    An ionizer/ozone generator may help a bit ( after all possible mechanical cleaning is done) and help with odors in the air, but if you want to deoderize a piano, you'd better be prepared to buy a serious unit. Mine ( the smallest the company sold) was $800, and I found it very effective in getting the cigarette smell out of a  Steinway "M", but only AFTER  I'd done all the mechanical cleaning I could conspire! (Including dunking the keys in Purple Power(TM)* scrubbing them, rinsing them, drying them with paper towels and leaving them on a rack with good circulation all around.) But it did "diddly" to get rid of the mouse-pee smell in another piano. (Even after the same extremely strenuous cleaning.) And remember: ozone damages the lungs. So the next time I do this, 
    I intend it to be in a shed far, far from the shop!
    
    Thumpe