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keyboard levelling

  • 1.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-21-2004 09:13
    From "Quentin Codevelle" <quentin.codevelle@tiscali.fr>
    
    Hi everybody,
    
    I wonder what kind of device you use for levelling keys.
    I use the aluminium yamaha straight edge which is very handy and practical.
    But I've noticed that it is not as straight as it was when new.
    It has warped a little since I bought it.
    So I'm considering in buying a new one.
    
    Or is there a way to accurately make one that will harldy warp or loose its "straightness"?
    
    A guy I know who went to the Yamaha Academy in Japan told me that they were selling another type of straight edge there.
    It consists of a wooden core, and two plexiglas bars glued to the wooden core (making sort of a "wood & plexi" sandwich).
    And then it is calibrated with a machine so it is straight.
    
    Maybe there is a way to build the same edge with good accuracy.
    
    
    Thanks,
    
    Quentin
    


  • 2.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-21-2004 11:04
    From St?phane Collin <collin.s@skynet.be>
    
    hello.
    
    Up till now, I found nothing as accurate than eye balling, for key leveling.  I set mid and extreme keys right with a mechanician ruler, and then eye-ball for the other keys.  I'm just happy with this method.
    
    St?phane Collin.
      


  • 3.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-21-2004 15:43
    From "Cy Shuster" <741662027@theshusters.org>
    
    Or just get a piece of aluminum angle stock ("L"-shaped cross section); it will stay reasonably straight.  A tip from Paul Chick Sr. - glue two punchings of each size together, and use them as test shims between the key and the straightedge.  One punching on the rail will raise the height about twice as far on the key.
    
    --Cy Shuster--
    Bluefield, WV
      


  • 4.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-21-2004 11:11
    From David Ilvedson <ilvey@sbcglobal.net>
    
    I've got a wood, laminated leveling stick with a slight crown built into it.   I've used it for years...I can understand eyeballing a few keys but not an entire set...maybe my eyes aren't as good as yours...;-]
    
    David I.
    
    


  • 5.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-21-2004 20:36
    From gordon stelter <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>
    
    Cheap, small aluminum "U" stock can be bought at most
    lumber yards, in the structural,aluminum display 
    ( used for edging on plywood, etc.. ) more ridgid than
    'L".
         Thump
    
    
    --- Cy Shuster <741662027@theshusters.org> wrote:
    
    > Or just get a piece of aluminum angle stock
    > ("L"-shaped cross section); it will stay reasonably
    > straight.  A tip from Paul Chick Sr. - glue two
    > punchings of each size together, and use them as
    > test shims between the key and the straightedge. 
    > One punching on the rail will raise the height about
    > twice as far on the key.
    > 
    > --Cy Shuster--
    > Bluefield, WV
    >   


  • 6.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-21-2004 20:45
    From Alpha88x@aol.com
    
    In a message dated 11/21/2004 11:28:10 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
    quentin.codevelle@tiscali.fr writes:
    
    > Hi everybody,
    >   
    > I wonder what kind of device you use for levelling keys.
    >  I use the aluminium yamaha straight edge which is very handy and practical.
    >  But I've noticed that it is not as straight as it was when new.
    >  It has warped a little since I bought it.
    >  So I'm considering in buying a new one.
    >   
    > 
    
    Greetings, 
    
             I went to Lowe's and bought a 1"x 1/8" x 12'-0" piece of aluminum 
    bar stock and cut it to length and have 2 levelers. I covered one side/edge in 
    masking tape so keytops would not be scratched or get those aluminum marks on 
    them. 
    
    Julia
    Reading. PA
    


  • 7.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-22-2004 01:00
    From "Quentin Codevelle" <quentin.codevelle@tiscali.fr>
    
    Thanks for all you advice.
    
    Stephane, I met some techs who were levelling only with eye sight, like you do.
    I already tried, but my eyes are not accurate enough to go to the entire process with enough eveness.
    
    But maybe I should give it another try some day.
    
    I think the edge that can be found at the yamaha academy should be great because this "wood and plexiglas" sandwich can hardly bend or warp with time.
    
    I already tried buying some aluminium bar, but I found it was not perfectly straight, even after just buying it.
    Of course, one shouldn't let it fall on the floor, or laying the edge in a vertical position, against a wall, for example.
    
    But even with great care, it wasn't straight enough from the beginning.
    
    Bye,
    
    Quentin


  • 8.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-22-2004 04:55
    From St?phane Collin <collin.s@skynet.be>
    
    Hello Quentin, David and list.
    
    Strange, I find it much easier to appreciate a straight line in the keys when viewed from the side of the keyboard, than to appreciate the individual distance from the keys to a stick placed above them (certainly if that distance is small).  Also, only by eye can I pound three informations : the alignement of the underside of the fronts of the keys (supposed of course that they are perfecly evenly cut, which is nearly always the case), the alignment of the underside of the keytops, and the alignment of the upside of the keytops (which, if ivory and old, can have altered thicknesses due to wear which would induce some severe leveling errors when regulated with the stick).
    
    And, when it comes down to less than 0.16 mm difference between the level of adjacent keys (0.08 mm is the thickness of the smallest balance rail punchings I use, and I suppose here that the balance hole is approximately in the middle of the key length), which difference I'm sure anyone can see, I believe that the discrepencies in the other parts of the action plus the discrepencies in string height and the discrepencies in the apparent bore distance of the used hammers are all of greater consequence (and concern) to the regulation.  
    
    Best regards.
    
    St?phane Collin.
    


  • 9.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-22-2004 06:29
    From "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
    
    I use the jig-set that Carl Meyer builds. It is sold by Joe Goss at Mother Goose Tools. I very much like it. It has a number of easy-use features. And it stays straight! I highly recommend it.
    
    Just leveled a set yesterday!
    
    Terry Farrell
      


  • 10.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-22-2004 07:38
    From "Quentin Codevelle" <quentin.codevelle@tiscali.fr>
    
    Hi Terry,
    
    I looked at this device on the mothergoosetools website, and it seems to me that the leveling device cannot be used directly on a piano, right?
    Do you absolutely need to put the action on a flat table or on a regulation bench?
    
    What I like is to carry all my regulation equipement in my bag, and this device looks nice but only for workshop use.
    
    I can't imagine carrying this when regulating upright and grands in conservatories and music schools.
    
    But when you can take the action to your workplace or when you work in your workshop, this seems great.
    
    That's why the yamaha levelling straight edge is cool: it is not so big and can be carried everywhere.
    
    Quentin


  • 11.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-22-2004 08:39
    From "Joe And Penny Goss" <imatunr@srvinet.com>
    
    Hi Quentin,
    There are instructions for the use of the tool on the site.
    For uprights, all leveling can easily be done in the home, and as Carl Meyer its inventor suggests, the leveling is fun. 
    Grand leveling, can be done in the home, but is a little more involved.
    A set of back check leads ( not included ) to hold the back of the keys down ( while not a must ) are also helpful.
    The tool now comes with a case so that all the tools needed for the job can be kept together.
    One other tool that I use with this tool is my string level, to set the 
    end bench marks and check the white side to side or tip of the top level.
    Joe Goss RPT
    Mother Goose Tools
    imatunr@srvinet.com
    www.mothergoosetools.com
      


  • 12.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-24-2004 13:01
    From "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
    
    Nope. Can be used directly on/in a piano. Yes, I see that carrying it around might be a bit cumbersome - I "carry" it in the trunk of my car when I think I may need it.
    
    Terry Farrell
      


  • 13.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-26-2004 14:50
    From "Joe And Penny Goss" <imatunr@srvinet.com>
    
    Hi Terry,
    You can make a carrying case for the tool out of a four foot length of 2" PVC pipe, one end cup cap, and a drain clean out fitting. The clean out fitting is where the ends of the tool and double sided sticky tape are stored and the tube stores the rest of the tool and basic items needed to set the leveler up. Punchings and such do not go in the case <G>
    Joe Goss RPT
    Mother Goose Tools
    imatunr@srvinet.com
    www.mothergoosetools.com
      


  • 14.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-22-2004 21:36
    From "Isaac Sadigursky" <irs.pianos@earthlink.net>
    
    Hi,everybody! regarding leveling the keys i'm surprised nobody had mentioned the possibility of leveling them "by ear",just the way blind technicians do. when straightedge or my favorite L-shaped aluminum
     is covering 1-1.5 octaves,just tapping the keys from the buttom will produce different sounds depending on the gap and then it is your judjment what thickness paper punching to insert. I had observed this technic in one of the convention classes for blind tuners years ago. It woyks! best of luck. isaac
    P.s> the list is very addictive.. i'm thrilled to see all familiar names and appreciate wealth  of information and knowledge. Happy Thanksgiving to everyone!
    
    


  • 15.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-25-2004 10:21
    From "Quentin Codevelle" <quentin.codevelle@tiscali.fr>
    
    Hi,
    
    In this case, this device would not be really appropriate for me, because if I tune in a conservatory for example,I go from one room to the other, and moving inside the building with all this stuff in my hands would not be so easy.
    That's why the yamaha straight edge is great.
    Maybe I should order another one.
    
    Quentin


  • 16.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-25-2004 11:36
    From MarinoPiano@aol.com
    
    Hi List,
    With all this straight edge talk, where and how does one order a Yammie 
    straight edge.  I have a steinway straight edge that works nicely,, with the arc in 
    the center.  But would like something straight.
    
    Thanks
    Arthur Marino
    


  • 17.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-25-2004 11:55
    From "Quentin Codevelle" <quentin.codevelle@tiscali.fr>
    
    Hi arthur,
    
    You can order it directly from yamaha corp.
    There is a catalogue with all the tools available for the piano technicians.
    The reference for the straight edge is: TX 62 49 00 : Straight edge for key board levelling.
    I don't remember the price actually.
    
    Quentin


  • 18.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-26-2004 09:54
    From "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
    
    Does the Yamaha straight edge work on grey-market Yamahas?
    
    Do you have to give them a serial number to purchase it?
    
    Terry Farrell
      


  • 19.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-27-2004 18:58
    From Nichols <nicho@zianet.com>
    
    At 11:54 AM 11/26/2004 -0500, you wrote:
    >Does the Yamaha straight edge work on grey-market Yamahas?
    >
    >Do you have to give them a serial number to purchase it?
    >
    >Terry Farrell
    
    Hah!
    
    I should mention, of course, #132 on the list of 
    stuff-to-do-with-a-threshold......
    (There were sooooooooo many uses that didn't make the Journal articles.)
    Key leveling. Slip the big vinyl off of one edge, and use the padded edge 
    on the sharps.
    Who woulda guessed, eh?
    
    Later,
    Guy
    


  • 20.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-28-2004 11:13
    From Avery Todd <avery@ev1.net>
    
    Guy,
    
    Well, how about a follow-up article. Or two! :-)
    
    Avery
    
    At 07:57 PM 11/27/04, you wrote:
    >At 11:54 AM 11/26/2004 -0500, you wrote:
    >>Does the Yamaha straight edge work on grey-market Yamahas?
    >>
    >>Do you have to give them a serial number to purchase it?
    >>
    >>Terry Farrell
    >
    >Hah!
    >
    >I should mention, of course, #132 on the list of 
    >stuff-to-do-with-a-threshold......
    >(There were sooooooooo many uses that didn't make the Journal articles.)
    >Key leveling. Slip the big vinyl off of one edge, and use the padded edge 
    >on the sharps.
    >Who woulda guessed, eh?
    >
    >Later,
    >Guy
    


  • 21.  keyboard levelling

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11-25-2004 12:32
    From "David Love" <davidlovepianos@comcast.net>
    
    A small 12" straight edge works perfectly well and you can carry it in
    your tool case.  Simply set the end keys and then each C at a height
    measured from the keybed.  The easiest method is with the split punching
    inserted from underneath. You can build in some crown if you want.  Then
    use the straight edge to level each octave between the guide notes.
    It's much easier than handling a keyboard length straight or curved
    edge.  
     
    David Love
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net 
     
    


  • 22.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-25-2004 13:15
    From "Isaac Sadigursky" <irs.pianos@earthlink.net>
    
    Hi,arthur! for your information,Steinway straitedge is arched-"rainbow"ed on one side and straight on the other.I put a piece of masking tape on straight side to make it identifiable and it works. good luck and happy Thnanxgiving! Isaac    S.      
    
    
    


  • 23.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-25-2004 14:15
    From "Quentin Codevelle" <quentin.codevelle@tiscali.fr>
    
    Hi David,
    
    This is precisely the method that I use with my straight edge.
    I level all the C's individually and then with the straight edge.
    I think the split punching trick is good, but I only use for touch up.
    If I have big levelling work, I unscrew the action and I lead the back checks.
    
    Quentin
    


  • 24.  keyboard levelling

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11-25-2004 22:19
    From "David Love" <davidlovepianos@comcast.net>
    
    I've never liked clipping leads to the back checks because they often
    influence the key height differently than the wippen/hammer assembly
    resting on the capstan.  The clip-on leads should really be designed to
    clip over the capstan rather than the back check.  You would get a more
    accurate reading that way.  What I have done is to take 12 clip on
    leads, set them on top of a heavy iron vice and flatten them slightly
    with a hammer so that they set more securely on top of the key near the
    capstan.  Then I level an octave at a time after presetting the guide
    notes with the stack on.    
     
    David Love
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net 
    


  • 25.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-25-2004 22:56
    From "Isaac Sadigursky" <irs.pianos@earthlink.net>
    
    Greetings to everyone! Hope,the turkey tasted great!
    Leveling leads on back checks can be problematic. On some older pianos there are clear marks from old-fashioned key leveling leads which had 2 sharp nails and were tapped with light hammer near the capstan,but,probably,it was too time consuming.I do have a sozen of those leads with nails and they work.
    But about 20 years ago late Roger WEisensteiner introduced KImball factory method:about 15" machine bolt is filled through it's lenght with flat machine washers  1 1/2" outside dia 3/4" inside hole,about 100 of them fill     entire length of the bolt.Placed over an octave  this method enbles to do key leveling fast ,especially on verticals ,when the action is out.I had good experience doing it that way and have one of those units in the shop and one for the field work. {I'm sure my friend JOe Garrett can give a better description of that method,but I had shown it in my classes and a few local technicians copied that method.  Best Regards to you all. Isaac Sadigursky 
    
    
    


  • 26.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-26-2004 06:52
    From <justpianos@our.net.au>
    
    Hi List,
    This question is obvious to me, but I don't know the history of innovation in 
    piano design.
    Has anybody tried a balance rail pin which screws in and out of the balance 
    rail, with micro-thread like tuning pins, to adjust it's height.
    A flange at the bottom on which sits one felt punching and then the key, 
    which goes up and down when adjusted from the top. Has to be quicker, easier 
    and more accurate.
    Bruce Browning-The Piano Tuner.
    
    
    Isaac Sadigursky <irs.pianos@earthlink.net> said:
    
    > Hi,everybody! regarding leveling the keys i'm surprised nobody had 
    mentioned the possibility of leveling them "by ear",just the way blind 
    technicians do. when straightedge or my favorite L-shaped aluminum
    >  is covering 1-1.5 octaves,just tapping the keys from the buttom will 
    produce different sounds depending on the gap and then it is your judjment 
    what thickness paper punching to insert. I had observed this technic in one 
    of the convention classes for blind tuners years ago. It woyks! best of luck. 
    isaac
    > P.s> the list is very addictive.. i'm thrilled to see all familiar names 
    and appreciate wealth  of information and knowledge. Happy Thanksgiving to 
    everyone!
    > 
    > 


  • 27.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-26-2004 09:09
    From St?phane Collin <collin.s@skynet.be>
    
    interesting idea
    
    St?phane Collin.
    
    


  • 28.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-26-2004 12:20
    From Thomas Cole <tcole@cruzio.com>
    
    justpianos@our.net.au wrote:
    
    >Hi List,
    >This question is obvious to me, but I don't know the history of innovation in 
    >piano design.
    >Has anybody tried a balance rail pin which screws in and out of the balance 
    >rail, with micro-thread like tuning pins, to adjust it's height.
    >
    Every time I do a key leveling job, these ideas occur to me. To provide 
    a screwdriver adjustment would be a big timesaver in the factory as well 
    as the field, which could offset the additional cost of the parts, not 
    to mention how makers would endear themselves to technicians.
    
    I did see one 50+ year-old American grand which had a drop screw in 
    front of the balance pin holes of each key. There were no punchings on 
    the balance rail pins but the drop screw "heads" rested on a strip of 
    cloth on the balance rail. The keys didn't need leveling but the whole 
    job couldn't take more than 15 minutes to accomplish. If this method 
    were retrofitted as described, one problem is that the key ratio would 
    be changed. But it would work well if the keys were being replaced with 
    new ones which incorporated this design.
    
    Adjustable balance rail pins was discussed some time back. Since the 
    pins also have to be bent left or right to square up the keys, you would 
    need to repeat that procedure every time the keys were leveled, and then 
    touch up the leveling, and then recheck the squaring... so I haven't 
    been entirely satisfied with this approach. Even with that, it still 
    would be faster.
    
    I seem to remember somebody at Steinway working on this idea a while 
    back but nothing has come of it to my knowledge.
    
    Tom Cole
    


  • 29.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-26-2004 12:39
    From Greg Newell <gnewell@ameritech.net>
    
    Bruce,
             You're giving away my invention! I've been noodling this idea 
    around for years but can't get past the problem of having to bend the key 
    pins slightly for better alignment. The nicest thing about this idea is 
    that leveling a set of keys might take about 10 minutes!!! As i really 
    don't care much for the task of key leveling I like the idea.
    
    Best,
    Greg
    
    
    At 08:52 AM 11/26/2004, you wrote:
    >Hi List,
    >This question is obvious to me, but I don't know the history of innovation in
    >piano design.
    >Has anybody tried a balance rail pin which screws in and out of the balance
    >rail, with micro-thread like tuning pins, to adjust it's height.
    >A flange at the bottom on which sits one felt punching and then the key,
    >which goes up and down when adjusted from the top. Has to be quicker, easier
    >and more accurate.
    >Bruce Browning-The Piano Tuner.
    >
    >
    >Isaac Sadigursky <irs.pianos@earthlink.net> said:
    >
    > > Hi,everybody! regarding leveling the keys i'm surprised nobody had
    >mentioned the possibility of leveling them "by ear",just the way blind
    >technicians do. when straightedge or my favorite L-shaped aluminum
    > >  is covering 1-1.5 octaves,just tapping the keys from the buttom will
    >produce different sounds depending on the gap and then it is your judjment
    >what thickness paper punching to insert. I had observed this technic in one
    >of the convention classes for blind tuners years ago. It woyks! best of luck.
    >isaac
    > > P.s> the list is very addictive.. i'm thrilled to see all familiar names
    >and appreciate wealth  of information and knowledge. Happy Thanksgiving to
    >everyone!
    > >
    > > 


  • 30.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-26-2004 13:10
    From "Tom Driscoll" <tomtuner@comcast.net>
    
    Subject: Re: keyboard levelling
    
    
    > Hi List,
    > This question is obvious to me, but I don't know the history of innovation
    in
    > piano design.
    > Has anybody tried a balance rail pin which screws in and out of the
    balance
    > rail, with micro-thread like tuning pins, to adjust it's height.
    > A flange at the bottom on which sits one felt punching and then the key,
    > which goes up and down when adjusted from the top. Has to be quicker,
    easier
    > and more accurate.
    > Bruce Browning-The Piano Tuner.
    >
    Bruce,
        Sounds very compelling. I remember an idea from many years past
    concerning an adjustable key leveling system.I think it was from Alfred H.
    Howe and detailed in his book on piano technology.
        Playing devils advocate here ,when you bend the balance rail pin to
    square the keys ,if the pin is not perfectly  plumb it would rotate in an
    elliptical fashion when adjusted throwing off the squaring .
        This is not to discourage what seems like an interesting concept,just a
    factor to consider   Need investors?
        Tom --Just had a turkey sandwich--Driscoll RPT
    


  • 31.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-26-2004 13:26
    From "Tom Driscoll" <tomtuner@comcast.net>
    
    


  • 32.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-26-2004 09:41
    From "Quentin Codevelle" <quentin.codevelle@tiscali.fr>
    
    We can also think about this for key dip of course.
    
    Quentin


  • 33.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-26-2004 12:08
    From Keith McGavern <kam544@gbronline.com>
    
    At 9:55 PM -0800 11/25/04, Isaac Sadigursky wrote:
    >... On some older pianos there are clear marks from old-fashioned 
    >key leveling leads which had 2 sharp nails and were tapped with 
    >light hammer near the capstan,but,probably,it was too time 
    >consuming.I do have a sozen of those leads with nails and they work. 
    >...
    
    I get kind of aggressive when I re-level a set of grand piano keys.
    
    When adding/removing balance rail shims, the clip-on type weights 
    tended to fall off, and the nail type weights wouldn't stay put 
    either, though somewhat better.
    
    So I finally decided to ground the nails off and install Scotch 
    joiner plates (nomenclature?) with contact cement. This allows eight 
    (8) holding points per weight. I tap them on with a small hammer, and 
    I use all eighty-eight (88) during a re-leveling process.
    
    And yes, it takes more time to put them on, and to take them off, but 
    the results are worth it for me. The only real downside I see that 
    would exist in some folks minds is the evidence of such activity by 
    the holes that have been introduced in the wood.
    
    That's my method of madness.
    
    Keith
    -- 
    Keith McGavern
    Registered Piano Technician
    Oklahoma Chapter 731
    Piano Technicians Guild
    USA
    


  • 34.  keyboard levelling

    Member
    Posted 11-26-2004 12:39
    From Phillip Ford <fordpiano@earthlink.net>
    
    >I did see one 50+ year-old American grand which had a drop screw in front 
    >of the balance pin holes of each key. There were no punchings on the 
    >balance rail pins but the drop screw "heads" rested on a strip of cloth on 
    >the balance rail. The keys didn't need leveling but the whole job couldn't 
    >take more than 15 minutes to accomplish. If this method were retrofitted 
    >as described, one problem is that the key ratio would be changed. But it 
    >would work well if the keys were being replaced with new ones which 
    >incorporated this design.
    
    This design has been mentioned by Jack Wyatt on the list.  Archives may 
    yield a bit more info.
    
    >...
    >I seem to remember somebody at Steinway working on this idea a while back 
    >but nothing has come of it to my knowledge.
    >
    >Tom Cole
    
    See patent 5,654,515 to W Youse for Steinway, Inc on August 5, 
    1997.  Another interesting idea.  I don't know why it hasn't made it into 
    production pianos.
    
    Phil Ford
    


  • 35.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-26-2004 12:48
    From "Quentin Codevelle" <quentin.codevelle@tiscali.fr>
    
    Hi Terry,
    
    I don't know about the grey market pianos, because I work for a yamaha dealer, and we are absolutely against the sell and the servicing of grey market pianos (although there are lots of them sold around here).
    You should ask yamaha about it directly.
    As long as you do not ask for action parts, I don't know why they should ask about a serial number and refuse to send you what you want to order.
    
    Bye,
    
    Quentin


  • 36.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-26-2004 13:15
    From JWyatt1492@aol.com
    
    Hello Tom,
     
        The "Bowen-Henderson" Co.  used this 
    "large drop screw" adjustment on top of the key 
    just in front of the center pin. It worked like a  dream.
      After checking I found no excessive wear in the 
    bushing felt. This piano was made in the late twenties.
       
         An action model using this system will be
    displayed at the PTGF. Museum at the  2005
    Kansas City convention.    
     
         In addition to this method the "P.A. Starck  Co"
     had a system in the early sixties that used an inverted
    upright let-off rail at the very back of the key to raise or 
    lower the back of the key. This would of course level 
    the front keytops.  It used a standard capstan and
    worked well but, we found it to be inconvenient. 
     
    Regards,
    Jack Wyatt 
     
      
    


  • 37.  keyboard levelling

    Member
    Posted 11-26-2004 13:26
    From Phillip Ford <fordpiano@earthlink.net>
    
    >Hi List,
    >This question is obvious to me, but I don't know the history of innovation in
    >piano design.
    >Has anybody tried a balance rail pin which screws in and out of the balance
    >rail, with micro-thread like tuning pins, to adjust it's height.
    >A flange at the bottom on which sits one felt punching and then the key,
    >which goes up and down when adjusted from the top. Has to be quicker, easier
    >and more accurate.
    >Bruce Browning-The Piano Tuner.
    
    Yes.  There are several patented ideas like this as well as other 
    variations.  One example of the idea that you mention is patent 1,118,939
    to G Lawrence on Dec. 1, 1914.  I don't know why none of them
    became accepted by the industry.  The idea that you mention
    seems like a straightforward way of dealing 
    with this, as it involves no other modifications to a conventional 
    action.  It also doesn't seem like it should be terribly expensive to 
    incorporate.  It also would allow those that think that it's a good idea to 
    attempt to duplicate the action force at the capstan with lead weights, 
    repeatedly remove keys, and put little colored pieces of paper under them 
    to do it that way if they wished.
    
    Phil Ford
    


  • 38.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-26-2004 20:22
    From "Isaac Sadigursky" <irs.pianos@earthlink.net>
    
    no,terry! you have to submit your DNA only. Good luck! Isaac
    
    
    


  • 39.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-26-2004 20:23
    From "Isaac Sadigursky" <irs.pianos@earthlink.net>
    
    I think,H,C.Bay piano maker used some "innovative " idea for key leveling..
    It looked good on the drawibg board,but piano coudn't read it,so it didn't
    work. Well,keep experimenting.. looks like the old-fashion way still works 
    
    
    > [Original Message]
    > From: Tom Driscoll <tomtuner@comcast.net>
    > To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org>
    > Date: 11/26/04 9:40:16 AM
    > Subject: Re: keyboard levelling
    >
    >
    > Subject: Re: keyboard levelling
    >
    >
    > > Hi List,
    > > This question is obvious to me, but I don't know the history of
    innovation
    > in
    > > piano design.
    > > Has anybody tried a balance rail pin which screws in and out of the
    > balance
    > > rail, with micro-thread like tuning pins, to adjust it's height.
    > > A flange at the bottom on which sits one felt punching and then the key,
    > > which goes up and down when adjusted from the top. Has to be quicker,
    > easier
    > > and more accurate.
    > > Bruce Browning-The Piano Tuner.
    > >
    > Bruce,
    >     Sounds very compelling. I remember an idea from many years past
    > concerning an adjustable key leveling system.I think it was from Alfred H.
    > Howe and detailed in his book on piano technology.
    >     Playing devils advocate here ,when you bend the balance rail pin to
    > square the keys ,if the pin is not perfectly  plumb it would rotate in an
    > elliptical fashion when adjusted throwing off the squaring .
    >     This is not to discourage what seems like an interesting concept,just
    a
    > factor to consider   Need investors?
    >     Tom --Just had a turkey sandwich--Driscoll RPT
    >
    > _______________________________________________
    > pianotech list info: http://www.ptg.org/mailman/listinfo/pianotech
    


  • 40.  keyboard levelling

    Posted 11-26-2004 20:27
    From "Isaac Sadigursky" <irs.pianos@earthlink.net>
    
    Thank you,Keith! I like that idea about scotch-Joints,I'm going to try
    it,too. thanx again.. Isaac
    
    
    > [Original Message]
    > From: Keith McGavern <kam544@gbronline.com>
    > To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
    > Date: 11/26/04 11:07:31 AM
    > Subject: RE: keyboard levelling
    >
    > At 9:55 PM -0800 11/25/04, Isaac Sadigursky wrote:
    > >... On some older pianos there are clear marks from old-fashioned 
    > >key leveling leads which had 2 sharp nails and were tapped with 
    > >light hammer near the capstan,but,probably,it was too time 
    > >consuming.I do have a sozen of those leads with nails and they work. 
    > >...
    >
    > I get kind of aggressive when I re-level a set of grand piano keys.
    >
    > When adding/removing balance rail shims, the clip-on type weights 
    > tended to fall off, and the nail type weights wouldn't stay put 
    > either, though somewhat better.
    >
    > So I finally decided to ground the nails off and install Scotch 
    > joiner plates (nomenclature?) with contact cement. This allows eight 
    > (8) holding points per weight. I tap them on with a small hammer, and 
    > I use all eighty-eight (88) during a re-leveling process.
    >
    > And yes, it takes more time to put them on, and to take them off, but 
    > the results are worth it for me. The only real downside I see that 
    > would exist in some folks minds is the evidence of such activity by 
    > the holes that have been introduced in the wood.
    >
    > That's my method of madness.
    >
    > Keith
    > -- 
    > Keith McGavern
    > Registered Piano Technician
    > Oklahoma Chapter 731
    > Piano Technicians Guild
    > USA