PianoTech Archive

From "Gerald Groot" <tunerboy3@comcast.net>

Hi List,

 

I just ordered some Acrilykey from Pianoteksupply.  Never used the stuff
before but, I hear it's great.  I have a piano next month coming up that has
"many" chipped key tops.  I do not know if they are plastic or ivory so, I
have a couple of questions.  Maybe these are covered in the directions in
the packet?

 

1.       Must this stuff be used ONLY on ivory?  Or can it also be used on
plastic.

2.      I read somewhere, where we need to pick up some sort of file that
does not come with it.  I can't remember where I read it. What file and
where do we get it?  

I figure I might as well join the crowd that does use it and learn how. Any
other advice would be appreciated.  

 

Thanks!

Jer Groot

From "Paul McCloud" <pmc033@earthlink.net>

Hi, Ger:
    Yes, it will work on plastic.  Matching is iffy, as would be expected with white/ivory color.  I purchased a kit many years ago, and it included several small sanding paddles with a coarse grit on one side and a fine grit on the other.  You'll have to polish after that if you need to.  I tried using it on a very translucent set of keytops, which had badly yellowed (maybe they were supposed to be that color?  I don't know).  The result was, shall I say, less than stellar.  The acrylikey is opaque or nearly so.
    The system works very well.  Be sure to prepare the chips well.  You may need to clean or buff the other keys too, because after you sand and buff the damaged ones, the other keys won't match.
    Have fun.  Let us know how they came out.
    Paul McCloud
    San Diego 




                                                

					
                                                    

        
                                                
				
                                                

                                                    
                                                        
                                                        Original Message
                                                
                                                 Original Message ----- 
From: Gerald Groot 
To: pianotech@ptg.org
Sent: 09/09/2011 6:33:20 AM 
Subject: [pianotech] Acrilykey


Hi List,
 
I just ordered some Acrilykey from Pianoteksupply.  Never used the stuff before but, I hear it?s great.  I have a piano next month coming up that has ?many? chipped key tops.  I do not know if they are plastic or ivory so, I have a couple of questions.  Maybe these are covered in the directions in the packet?
 
1.       Must this stuff be used ONLY on ivory?  Or can it also be used on plastic.
2.      I read somewhere, where we need to pick up some sort of file that does not come with it.  I can?t remember where I read it? What file and where do we get it?  
I figure I might as well join the crowd that does use it and learn how? Any other advice would be appreciated.  
 
Thanks!
Jer Groot

From Barbara Richmond <piano57@comcast.net>

I use some small files, like this: 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00906757000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2 

and razor blades to shape the space to fill. 

You can get additional nail files at a beauty supply store. I also use the four sided file in the picture--I picked it up at the local CVS drug store. It does a great job on the final stages of polishing . 

R emember to keep masking tape around the base of the bottle's cap to keep the liquid from evaporating. 

Barbara Richmond, RPT 
near Peoria, Illinois 





                                                

					
                                                    

                    

                

                    
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                                                        Original Message
                                                
                                                 Original Message -----
From: "Gerald Groot" <tunerboy3@comcast.net> 
To: pianotech@ptg.org 
Sent: Friday, September 9, 2011 8:34:18 AM 
Subject: [pianotech] Acrilykey 




Hi List, 



I just ordered some Acrilykey from Pianoteksupply. Never used the stuff before but, I hear it’s great. I have a piano next month coming up that has “many” chipped key tops. I do not know if they are plastic or ivory so, I have a couple of questions. Maybe these are covered in the directions in the packet? 



1. Must this stuff be used ONLY on ivory? Or can it also be used on plastic. 

2. I read somewhere, where we need to pick up some sort of file that does not come with it. I can’t remember where I read it… What file and where do we get it? 

I figure I might as well join the crowd that does use it and learn how… Any other advice would be appreciated. 



Thanks! 

Jer Groot

From Ron Nossaman <rnossaman@cox.net>

On 9/9/2011 9:54 AM, Barbara Richmond wrote:
> I use some small files, like this:
>
> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00906757000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2
>
> and razor blades to shape the space to fill.
>
> You can get additional nail files at a beauty supply store. I also use
> the four sided file in the picture--I picked it up at the local CVS drug
> store. It does a great job on the final stages of polishing.
>
> Remember to keep masking tape around the base of the bottle's cap to
> keep the liquid from evaporating.


What I want to know is, what kind of camera do you have that you can 
work with your teeth?
Ron N

From "Gerald Groot" <tunerboy3@comcast.net>

Oh boy!  Sounds like I’m in for lots of fun!   NOT!  I was looking forward to trying it.  I think I lost my enthusiasm for it now…  L

Thanks!
Jer  

 

From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Barbara Richmond
Sent: Friday, September 09, 2011 10:54 AM
To: pianotech@ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Acrilykey

 

I use some small files, like this:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00906757000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

and razor blades to shape the space to fill.

You can get additional nail files at a beauty supply store.  I also use the four sided file in the picture--I picked it up at the local CVS drug store.  It does a great job on the final stages of polishing.

Remember to keep masking tape around the base of the bottle's cap to keep the liquid from evaporating.

Barbara Richmond, RPT
near Peoria, Illinois




  _____  

From: "Gerald Groot" <tunerboy3@comcast.net>
To: pianotech@ptg.org
Sent: Friday, September 9, 2011 8:34:18 AM
Subject: [pianotech] Acrilykey




Hi List,

 

I just ordered some Acrilykey from Pianoteksupply.  Never used the stuff before but, I hear it’s great.  I have a piano next month coming up that has “many” chipped key tops.  I do not know if they are plastic or ivory so, I have a couple of questions.  Maybe these are covered in the directions in the packet?

 

1.       Must this stuff be used ONLY on ivory?  Or can it also be used on plastic.

2.      I read somewhere, where we need to pick up some sort of file that does not come with it.  I can’t remember where I read it… What file and where do we get it?  

I figure I might as well join the crowd that does use it and learn how… Any other advice would be appreciated.  

 

Thanks!

Jer Groot

From Barbara Richmond <piano57@comcast.net>

:-) Journal editor secret....a small tripod was helping me out. 

I forgot to mention that I hadn't tried these tools on plastic keytops. you could try them out on a junk key or spare keytop you have hanging around. I did a repair years ago on a plastic keytop; color matching wasn't easy. 

br 





                                                

					
                                                    

        
                                                
				
                                                

                                                    
                                                        
                                                        Original Message
                                                
                                                 Original Message -----
From: "Ron Nossaman" <rnossaman@cox.net> 
To: pianotech@ptg.org 
Sent: Friday, September 9, 2011 10:07:40 AM 
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Acrilykey 

On 9/9/2011 9:54 AM, Barbara Richmond wrote: 
> I use some small files, like this: 
> 
> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00906757000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2 
> 
> and razor blades to shape the space to fill. 
> 
> You can get additional nail files at a beauty supply store. I also use 
> the four sided file in the picture--I picked it up at the local CVS drug 
> store. It does a great job on the final stages of polishing. 
> 
> Remember to keep masking tape around the base of the bottle's cap to 
> keep the liquid from evaporating. 


What I want to know is, what kind of camera do you have that you can 
work with your teeth? 
Ron N 

From PIANO2NR@aol.com

I have had good success using dental materials and a curing light that I  
got on Ebay.  Talk to your dentist about getting some.  Better on  plastic 
than acrilikey.  Comes in many shades and opacities.
 
Randy Mangus, RPT
 
 
In a message dated 9/9/2011 4:40:32 P.M. US Eastern Daylight Time,  
tunerboy3@comcast.net writes:

 
Oh boy!  Sounds like I’m  in for lots of fun!   NOT!  I was looking forward 
to trying  it.  I think I lost my enthusiasm for it now…  L 
Thanks!
Jer    
 
 
From:  pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On 
Behalf Of  Barbara Richmond
Sent: Friday, September 09, 2011 10:54  AM
To: pianotech@ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech]  Acrilykey

 
I use some small  files, like  this:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00906757000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&bloc
kType=G2

and  razor blades to shape the space to fill.

You can get additional nail  files at a beauty supply store.  I also use 
the four sided file in the  picture--I picked it up at the local CVS drug 
store.  It does a great job  on the final stages of polishing.

Remember to keep masking tape around  the base of the bottle's cap to keep 
the liquid from  evaporating.

Barbara Richmond, RPT
near Peoria,  Illinois


 
____________________________________
 
From: "Gerald Groot"  <tunerboy3@comcast.net>
To: pianotech@ptg.org
Sent:  Friday, September 9, 2011 8:34:18 AM
Subject: [pianotech]  Acrilykey


Hi List, 
I just ordered some Acrilykey  from Pianoteksupply.  Never used the stuff 
before but, I hear it’s  great.  I have a piano next month coming up that has 
“many” chipped key  tops.  I do not know if they are plastic or ivory so, 
I have a couple of  questions.  Maybe these are covered in the directions in 
the  packet? 
1.       Must this stuff be used ONLY on  ivory?  Or can it also be used on 
plastic. 
2.       I read somewhere, where we need to pick up  some sort of file that 
does not come with it.  I can’t remember where I  read it… What file and 
where do we get it?   
I figure I might as well join  the crowd that does use it and learn how… 
Any other advice would be  appreciated.   
Thanks! 
Jer  Groot

From Douglas Gregg <classicpianodoc@gmail.com>

A while back I was doing quite a lot of acrylikey repairs on ivory and
some on plastic.
I agree that it is harder to match plastic, especially the pure white
stuff. The white bottle is not white enough. Here are three tips for
using the material.

1.  I took a used ivory tail and ground 7 notches in the edge and made
a color test strip by varying the amounts of white and beige coloring:
 all white, 3:1, 2:1, 1:1, 1:2, 1:3, and all beige.  It is the same
way your dentist would check the color of your tooth when making a
crown. It takes much of the guesswork out of it.

2.   I got some 1/8 inch thick polyethylene from Small Parts.com and
made some square blocks as wide and high as the front of the key. I
tape one of these under the overhanging  ivory to keep the resin from
slumping  or falling off before it sets. the polyethylene will not
stick to the acrylikey resin. It gives a nice clean square edge under
the overhang. I have been able to replace the entire overhang using
this technique.

3. I find the resin in the kit sets up too fast to do much sculpting.
I found that medium viscosity CA glue works great as the resin and is
readily available. The dollar store type in  small tubes seemed to
have a nice viscosity and set time. The more expensive kinds set too
quickly.   I know this sounds like some kind of heresy, but
cyanoacrylic turns into acrylic plastic when it sets and that is the
same as the resiin in the kit as far as I can see.  Anyway, I like it
better and after 4 years, I have never had a repair fail or chip out.

Doug Gregg
Classic Piano Doc

From Laura Olsen <laura-olsen@att.net>

OK. Here's my question.  How does this wear?  The texture is somewhat different from the original.  Does it pick up dirt over time?

Laura Olsen

On Sep 9, 2011, at 9:04 PM, Douglas Gregg wrote:

> A while back I was doing quite a lot of acrylikey repairs on ivory and
> some on plastic.
> I agree that it is harder to match plastic, especially the pure white
> stuff. The white bottle is not white enough. Here are three tips for
> using the material.
> 
> 1.  I took a used ivory tail and ground 7 notches in the edge and made
> a color test strip by varying the amounts of white and beige coloring:
> all white, 3:1, 2:1, 1:1, 1:2, 1:3, and all beige.  It is the same
> way your dentist would check the color of your tooth when making a
> crown. It takes much of the guesswork out of it.
> 
> 2.   I got some 1/8 inch thick polyethylene from Small Parts.com and
> made some square blocks as wide and high as the front of the key. I
> tape one of these under the overhanging  ivory to keep the resin from
> slumping  or falling off before it sets. the polyethylene will not
> stick to the acrylikey resin. It gives a nice clean square edge under
> the overhang. I have been able to replace the entire overhang using
> this technique.
> 
> 3. I find the resin in the kit sets up too fast to do much sculpting.
> I found that medium viscosity CA glue works great as the resin and is
> readily available. The dollar store type in  small tubes seemed to
> have a nice viscosity and set time. The more expensive kinds set too
> quickly.   I know this sounds like some kind of heresy, but
> cyanoacrylic turns into acrylic plastic when it sets and that is the
> same as the resiin in the kit as far as I can see.  Anyway, I like it
> better and after 4 years, I have never had a repair fail or chip out.
> 
> Doug Gregg
> Classic Piano Doc

From Douglas Gregg <classicpianodoc@gmail.com>

Laura,
The Acrylikey repairs with the original monomer or with CA glue hold
up very well and does not pick up dirt. It makes are a nice permanent
repair. If you get the color match good the first time, it will stay
that way. Even if you don't get the color perfect, if the repair chip
is feathered out as recommended, the color change is gradual and does
not stand out. That means to file the square edge to a make a gentle
valley that goes about 1/16 inch or more back into the good ivory.
This is a bit counter-intuitive as it make s the repair area bigger,
but it works. since the ivory and the acryikey material are both
somewhat transparent,  the taper makes for a transition of light
transmission that is less noticeable.

I did a fancy Chickering with full ivories. That is, it had no heads
and tails. They were all one piece, so replacing it was not an option.
These are rare. On the first try, the repair was not a perfect match.
I was about to redo it when the customer came in and asked which key
it was I repaired. She looked pretty carefully and did not see it, so
I figured it was good enough.

The most important thing is to carefully shape the surface of the
repair with the fine side of the finger nail file and then polish it
with a fine abrasive cleaner. I like White Diamond polish which I also
use on brass. It is amazing on metal and also on ivories and plastics.
It is important to get the texture the same in the repair as the in
the ivory. If not, it might show up later when dirt gets trapped in
scratches. It is not hard to polish it out and it is really important.

Douglas Gregg
Classic Piano Doc

From Laura Olsen <laura-olsen@att.net>

Thanks, Douglas
I'll copy this and the thought from Joe and put them in the Acrilykey box!
Laura
On Sep 10, 2011, at 11:11 PM, Douglas Gregg wrote:

> Laura,
> The Acrylikey repairs with the original monomer or with CA glue hold
> up very well and does not pick up dirt. It makes are a nice permanent
> repair. If you get the color match good the first time, it will stay
> that way. Even if you don't get the color perfect, if the repair chip
> is feathered out as recommended, the color change is gradual and does
> not stand out. That means to file the square edge to a make a gentle
> valley that goes about 1/16 inch or more back into the good ivory.
> This is a bit counter-intuitive as it make s the repair area bigger,
> but it works. since the ivory and the acryikey material are both
> somewhat transparent,  the taper makes for a transition of light
> transmission that is less noticeable.
> 
> I did a fancy Chickering with full ivories. That is, it had no heads
> and tails. They were all one piece, so replacing it was not an option.
> These are rare. On the first try, the repair was not a perfect match.
> I was about to redo it when the customer came in and asked which key
> it was I repaired. She looked pretty carefully and did not see it, so
> I figured it was good enough.
> 
> The most important thing is to carefully shape the surface of the
> repair with the fine side of the finger nail file and then polish it
> with a fine abrasive cleaner. I like White Diamond polish which I also
> use on brass. It is amazing on metal and also on ivories and plastics.
> It is important to get the texture the same in the repair as the in
> the ivory. If not, it might show up later when dirt gets trapped in
> scratches. It is not hard to polish it out and it is really important.
> 
> Douglas Gregg
> Classic Piano Doc