From "Joe And Penny Goss" <imatunr@srvinet.com>
Hi David,
If you are thinking S&S pear shape, sort of hard but dooable, espically if the final shaping is done with the paddle.
If you want resurfacing, very quickly and a touch up gang style this is a good way to go.
I have used all the electric devices that have come along the past few years, and feel that this is the best of them. That being said I still do it my way, and that way is a spinoff of this tool.
I strongly reccomend this tool only if you are dissatisfied with the speed of your work or have not developed a tecnique that you are comfortable with.
It is a tool that can lower the fustration level and boredom [becuase it is faster, leaving less time to daydream <O( ] of doing hammer shaping or speed up the process to get to final shaping with your old method.
For those who have pain in joints and arms while shaping hammers, you will find most of the work is done with the power tool.
Joe Goss RPT
Mother Goose Tools
imatunr@srvinet.com
www.mothergoosetools.com
Original Message -----
From: David Ilvedson
To: pianotech@ptg.org
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2005 8:50 AM
Subject: Re: Hammer sanding ,machne
Dale,
A picture would be helpful in visualizing this...
David I.
Original message
From: Erwinspiano@aol.com
To: pianotech@ptg.org
Received: 9/6/2005 3:45:03 AM
Subject: Re: Hammer sanding ,machne
Carl -- David I.
After using many forms of electric sanding devices I don't see how I can take a un -shaped set of new hammers & effeciently design a hammer shape with this tool. Perhaps that's not what it's use is for. I currently use a small sand cat belt sander & more recently a Makita hand held belt sander with a 1 inch wide by 18" belt. It's a bit awkward & dont' recommend it for anything but gang filing when shaping new hammers held in a gang clampm in a vise with plenty of clearance.
I do however use the makita on hung hammers when trying to do huge amounts of shape redesign & felt removal but I just do the rough work with the tools & finish with 80 thru 400 grit paper. Short of that the foredom works bset for this particular job as one can focus all the attention to shape on one side then the other & lastly the top.
my guess is that Joe's tool is extremely effective for the applications it was designed for such as upright actions.... Right Joe? Or splain it further to dense heads like me. Maybe I need one
Just my 2 cents.
Dale
Carl,
so it goes back and forth...how do you get a particular shape? I'm think of a worn hammer where I want to bring the shoulders down and not the top. How is that accomplished?
David I.
David, just push the sander fore and aft to sand only on side of the hammer. Press down to sand the top. Rotate the sander and push side to side to clear waste felt. You need to do this since if you don't the felt will clog the paper and stop working. Fifty or sixty grit is good for speedily removing felt. For smaller hammers I usually squeeze the blades with thumb and index finger to sand only the sides. Remember that this tool is basically roughing it in. As Nick Gravagne said in a class "We're just shoveling dirt". Final shaping and squaring is done using standard paddles or your favorite procedure.
Carl Meyer PTG assoc
Santa Clara, Ca.