Pianotech

  • 1.  Polishing plastic keys

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 09-29-2017 11:59
    I recently serviced a grand that had divots in about half of the key fronts due to a poorly-positioned action (the highest octave were barely playable...). They were digging into the key slip. I was able to sand and polish out the divots, but I'm wondering how to restore the original luster to the plastic keys. I went down to 1200 grit paper, but it wasn't quite enough. For those with this experience, how fine do you need? I have a buffing wheel for my power drill, but don't yet have a bench grinder. I buffed them with white compound, but I think I need an extra step or more of finishing paper.

    I've seen some products such as Novus #2 plastic polishing compound for headlights/etc. Mother's also has something similar. Are those appropriate?

    --
    Scott Cole, Registered Piano Technician
    Serving Southern Oregon and Northern California
    (541)601-9033


  • 2.  RE: Polishing plastic keys

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 09-29-2017 12:09
    Don't overlook good old fashioned Flitz.  I even use it on my headlights.

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    Floyd Gadd
    Regina SK
    306-502-9103
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  • 3.  RE: Polishing plastic keys

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 09-29-2017 12:17
    Novus will work fine, just add elbow grease. I use Flitz, which works on metals as well as plastic. 1200 is fine enough, but then you need a final polish, which the Novus should take care of. A bench polishing wheel is nice to have, but you have to be careful the wheel doesn't catch the keystick and send it flying. Don't ask.. I'm not sure which white compound you're using. Did you sand with any other grit paper? If so, make sure the sanding scratches are completely removed before trying to make a final polish.
    Paul McCloud
    San Diego

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    Scott Cole


    I recently serviced a grand that had divots in about half of the key fronts due to a poorly-positioned action (the highest octave were barely playable...). They were digging into the key slip. I was able to sand and polish out the divots, but I'm wondering how to restore the original luster to the plastic keys. I went down to 1200 grit paper, but it wasn't quite enough. For those with this experience, how fine do you need? I have a buffing wheel for my power drill, but don't yet have a bench grinder. I buffed them with white compound, but I think I need an extra step or more of finishing paper.


    I've seen some products such as Novus #2 plastic polishing compound for headlights/etc. Mother's also has something similar. Are those appropriate?


    --


    Scott Cole, Registered Piano Technician
    Serving Southern Oregon and Northern California
    (541)601-9033




  • 4.  RE: Polishing plastic keys

    Posted 09-29-2017 12:58
    I concur about the flying keystick ... flying at me, actually.

    One other thing with a buffing wheel on a bench grinder: if you use too much pressure and especially if you stay in one place too long, the plastic will melt. Don't ask ... Also, you'll need to clean off the old caked on compound now and then, which I do by wrapping a piece of coarse sandpaper around a piece of wood and buffing with it. One would think this would leave grit in the wheel, but I haven't found it to happen. Then load the wheel with fresh compound. 

    I have two buffing wheels, one for metal and the other for ivory and plastic. I couldn't find wide enough ones for sale, so I bought four narrow ones and went to a shoe repair place. They made me two from the four by stitching through the sides with their very strong sewing machine.

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    Susan Kline
    Philomath, Oregon
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  • 5.  RE: Polishing plastic keys

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 09-30-2017 07:19
        Being in the keytop business, I'm lucky enough to do a LOT of key buffing and polishing.  Here's my recipe:  For really deep imperfections in plastic, I use 600 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper from an auto body shop supply and use water when sanding.  Finish with 1000 grit.  This leaves a haze on the surface which I remove using a buffing wheel and "Special Keytop Buffing Compound" in bar form from Pianotek.  Use 2 or 3 wheels mounted on your shaft with one dedicated  to compound and the other strictly for polishing.  You can do a poor man's buffing wheel using the same setup with threaded rod chucked in a drill press. 
        The final polishing is done with a Dremel tool and small buffs from Harbor Freight.  (Cheap and good.)    Using slow speed and the compound again, it works great for removing the haze and small scratches.  And Susan is right, too much pressure will melt the plastic.  For field work, I use Turtle Wax.  It seems to have the correct abrasive to remove scratches, though I'm sure there are other products as good or better.  That's my story and I'm sticking to it. 
        Mike Kurta, RPT
        N. Michigan chapter