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Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

  • 1.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-03-2007 12:06
    From "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
    
    Action time again for me again. I really struggle with action balancing issues. I must have action balancing Alzheimer's - every time I do it I feel like I am starting at square one again. Anyway, here goes:
    
    Stanwood SWR (strike weight ratio) - I realize his method of determining this parameter is based on weights, but does it fundamentally differ from overall action ratio as determined by measuring lever lengths (ala. Overs or Gravange) or by direct measurement of key dip and corresponding hammer rise? Shouldn't these numbers be pretty close to the same?
    
    I have difficulty measuring lengths and weights consistently. I have much more success using a few spacing jigs to measure action ratio directly - hammer rise divided by key dip - I can be very consistent with those measurement (and accurate, I think).
    
    I'm working on an 1890s Knabe grand. Everything in the action is new except rails and keyframe (both of which have been rebuilt) and action brackets.
    
    I know I should be posting a full analysis of a dozen sample keys, but I don't have all that yet - but I already have some questions about data from the first key measured - #16 in the bass.
    
    Action Ratio:  5.67
    FW: 36.25 (0.966 of Stanwood's maximum FWs)
    KR: 5.1
    DW: 50
    UW: 27
    BW: 38.5
    F: 11.5
    Blow: 48mm (1-7/8")
    Dip: 9.85mm (0.39")
    
    If you allow for a millimeter of letoff and add in maybe 0.030" aftertouch, you end up with a dip of about 9.1mm (0.36")
    
    Most parameters above appear to be very good to me with perhaps the exception of the dip. Comments anyone?
    
    9.1mm dip is shallow (or right at the shallow end of normal) for most pianos/pianists, yes? It seems to me this action has a very good action ratio, yet it has relatively shallow dip and a relatively large blow distance.
    
    Any initial thoughts on how I have this thing set up before I go and make 88 of the same mistakes?
    
    Thanks.
    
    Terry Farrell
    Farrell Piano
    
    www.farrellpiano.com
    terry@farrellpiano.com


  • 2.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-03-2007 13:40
    From Jon Page <jonpage@comcast.net>
    
    Terry,
    What is the knuckle radius?  If you can bump it out to 17 or 18mm
    you can increase the dip and get rid of some lead.
    
    Maintain about a 90 degree angle between the jack and shank at rest.
    
    Is the wippen flange centers at a good height? Usually 2 1/2" below the HCH.
    -- 
    Jon
    


  • 3.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-03-2007 14:11
    From "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
    
    Hi Jon, thanks for the input. Comments below:
    
    Terry Farrell
    
    


  • 4.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-03-2007 14:50
    From "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
    
    Yes, there is room in the rep lever window to move rearward up to even three millimeters. Take a look at the following photo:
    
    
    
    You can see that the jack long axis and the knuckle core axis are pretty close to parallel with one another. As you can see, I increased the wippen heel height quite a bit to get the heel/capstan interface on the magic line at half blow - that modification has decreased friction a fair bit.
    
    Take a look at the lead in the keys in the photo below:
    
    
    
    That's where my concern about lead stems from. All front weights are 0.96666 of Stanwood's maximum front weights. All strike weights have been modified to follow the line between the heavy SWs and the medium SWs on the Stanwood SW curves
    
    Are you thinking that the slight loss of efficiency at not having the jack perpendicular to the shank at rest will be more than offset by the action ratio becoming more efficient by moving the knuckle out?
    
    I've never moved a knuckle before. I've moved capstan lines, but not knuckles. It is difficult for me to understand how moving the knuckle out would increase action efficiency and increase dip for a given blow. I see opposing effects - less efficiency on the shank lever, but increased efficiency on the wippen lever. How does that work?
    
    Thanks.
    
    Terry Farrell
    
    > 


  • 5.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-03-2007 17:08
    From "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
    
    I moved the knuckle out 2mm from the center - so now it is 18mm. Jack/knuckle alignment isn't quite as good - but not real bad:
    
    
    
    It looks like my knuckle core might not be real square with the shank - I'll double-check that (could just be the camera angle) - I cut the slot by hand and it was a little bit sloppy.
    
    Looks like there is plenty of room for the jack in it's new rest position in the rep lever window:
    
    
    
    But more to the point - WOW! DW went from 50g to 43g and upweight is still okay at 23g. So now I will do some calculating and figure out how much lead I can remove for a new target front weight. Gettin' more lead out can only improve this action I think.
    
    If I'm going to end up moving knuckles, I guess I'll have to dig through the archives on shank notching techniques - I know there have been a number of discussions on that topic.
    
    Terry Farrell
      > 


  • 6.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-03-2007 17:27
    From Ron Overs <sec@overspianos.com.au>
    
    Hi Terry and all,
    
    >Yes, there is room in the rep lever window to move rearward up to 
    >even three millimeters. Take a look at the following photo:
    >
    >
    >
    >You can see that the jack long axis and the knuckle core axis are 
    >pretty close to parallel with one another.
    
    Yes, it looks quite good. That jack tail angle also looks better than 
    most contemporary efforts (which dig holes in the lett-off button 
    felt). But you probably could take the knuckle slot out to 17 mm 
    without upsetting the alignment, since the jack is kicked back a 
    little towards the hammer centre when at rest.
    
    >As you can see, I increased the wippen heel height quite a bit to 
    >get the heel/capstan interface on the magic line at half blow - that 
    >modification has decreased friction a fair bit.
    
    Indeed, this is always a good move. But just look at the above image, 
    and watch what will be happening as you move the knuckle further out 
    on the hammer shank towards the hammer without changing any other 
    parameters. Especially note what will be happening to the contact 
    point between the knuckle and the jack contact face. It will be 
    moving towards the wippen/hammer-shank line of centers. The same 
    tendency will occur if you reduce the diameter of the knuckle. Also, 
    as you move the knuckle out, the wippen/knuckle-contact-distance from 
    the wippen centre will be reducing in length, while the distance from 
    the knuckle to the hammer centre will be increasing. Therefore, the 
    overall hammer/key ratio will be reducing just as it does when you 
    move the capstan towards the balance pin. Both adjustments therefore 
    will reduce the hammer/key ratio.
    
    >
    >Take a look at the lead in the keys in the photo below:
    >
    >
    >
    >That's where my concern about lead stems from. All front weights are 
    >0.96666 of Stanwood's maximum front weights.
    
    Yes, I suspect that this action has a hammer ratio which is too high. 
    The number of leads is always a tell-tale sign of a higher than 
    desirable ratio (assuming of course that the keyboard weigh-off was 
    done just after checking the friction of all the key bushes and 
    centers)
    
    >Are you thinking that the slight loss of efficiency at not having 
    >the jack perpendicular to the shank at rest will be more than offset 
    >by the action ratio becoming more efficient by moving the knuckle 
    >out?
    
    The relationship of the contact between the knuckle/jack contact with 
    respect to the line of centres will be the most significant factor.
    >
    >I've never moved a knuckle before.
    
    While it doesn't take too long to plug the knuckle slot and re-cut 
    it, I prefer to check an action at tear down these days and make a 
    decision on what to order, so that I don't have to do major custom 
    work at the time of re-assembly. You can get the overall ratio you 
    are looking for by moving the capstan line alone, but if you've got 
    an action with a 15.5 mm slot distance from the hammer center, and 
    you're using contemporary weight hammers with say 10.5 gr for the 
    lowest bass, you'll need to move the capstan much further towards the 
    balance pin to achieve a desirable ratio than you would if you 
    ordered shanks with a 17 mm slot distance.
    
    Ron O.
    -- 
    OVERS PIANOS - SYDNEY
        Grand Piano Manufacturers
    _______________________
    
    Web http://overspianos.com.au
    mailto:ron@overspianos.com.au
    _______________________
    


  • 7.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-03-2007 17:36
    From Jon Page <jonpage@comcast.net>
    
    >  > Is the wippen flange centers at a good height? Usually 2 1/2" below the
    >  > HCH.
    >I'm trying to imagine what HCH could be - and am failing. What is HCH?
    
    
    Hammer Center Height.
    
    Other alignments to consider: Action spread, knuckle core to jack center.
    
    The first photo with the knuckle at 16 mm had the core lined up properly
    with the jack center.  (Are those lead weights in the felt?) Is that 
    the blow distance?
    
    On the relocated knuckle the jack center is too far forwards of the 
    knuckle core.
    Can you increase the spread? Where does the rep lever contact the upstop screw,
    where does the jack contact the let off button. Is there room to move?
    
    With that height of a heel extension the magic line is out the window.
    
    More importantly in your experimentation, where does the jack end up?
    When all is said and done, the jack needs to be in close proximity to the
    knuckle at the end of the keystroke.
    
    Another consideration to really confound matters: stack relocation.
    Since the hammers are not on, the stack could be located further back
    a few mm. Then the hammers might have to be installed at a shorter radius.
    I've corrected a few problems by moving the stack back on quite a few actions.
    This would cause an increase in dip and lower touchweight.
    
    Fun, ain't it?
    -- 
    
    Regards,
    
    Jon Page
    


  • 8.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-04-2007 12:46
    From "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
    
    Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.
      


  • 9.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-03-2007 18:28
    From Erwinspiano@aol.com
    
    Hi Terry
      I have a Knuckle slotting jig set up you may  borrow if you like but the 
    postage shipping & handling is  $500.00.....grin.  Just tkidding!! Comes with a 
    saw blade that cuts a  beautiful slot for Tokiwa knuckle core size.  
      Just reply privately. Also you need to buy one of my  handy dandy "Action 
    ratio finders" & learn how to change your set up  painlessly or less pain than 
    you are currently experiencing in about 10 minutes  or less. To good to be 
    true.  Not.
      Any way your doing a good job of going in the right  direction.
     
     Dale
    
     
    If I'm going to end up moving knuckles, I guess  I'll have to dig through the 
    archives on shank notching techniques - I know  there have been a number of 
    discussions on that topic.
     
    Terry  Farrell
    
    
    
     
    
    
    
    ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
    


  • 10.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-03-2007 18:30
    From Erwinspiano@aol.com
    
    Hey Jon
      Nice job of diagnosis! 
     Dale
    
    Another consideration to really confound matters: stack relocation.
    Since the hammers are not on, the stack could be located further  back
    a few mm. Then the hammers might have to be installed at a shorter  radius.
    I've corrected a few problems by moving the stack back on quite a few  
    actions.
    This would cause an increase in dip and lower touchweight.
    
    
    Fun, ain't it?
    -- 
    
    
    Regards,
    
    Jon Page
    
    
    
     
    
    
    
    ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
    


  • 11.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 07-03-2007 18:47
    From "David Love" <davidlovepianos@comcast.net>
    
    Personally, I don't like going to 18 mm for the knuckle.  If you do,
    consider repinning the balancier flange so you can put more tension on the
    rep spring.  Otherwise, you will have to regulate it too close to the edge
    and the jack return can suffer.  If the picture below indicates the strike
    weight of note 20 at 11.9 grams, I'd use a lighter hammer.  I don't see why
    you need a 10 gram hammer at note 20.  Nine grams should be plenty for your
    6'4" Knabe with new and sensitive soundboard and you could probably go even
    lighter.  Moving the knuckle (better to have bought the shank with the
    correct knuckle to begin with) to 17 mm and taking 1 gram off the hammer you
    will achieve approximately the same goal as moving the knuckle to 18 mm
    (maybe a little better in fact).  You won't have to compromise jack angle
    either.  To figure out how much lead you can remove it is 1:1 inverse ratio
    FW: BW.  So if you want to add 6 grams of balance weight you subtract 6
    grams of FW.  (Makes sense, right?  You take lead out of the key and the
    touchweight gets heavier.)  That's a 12 gram lead located in the middle of
    the keystick (between front and balance rail).  Don't get too hung up on
    3-2-1-0 configuration.  You're slightly better off with a 4-3-2-1 set up
    with the leads moved closer to the balance rail.  
    
     
    
    As far as determining hammer weights with existing configurations you can
    always set up your key samples at 80%- 85% of FW max then sample various
    hammer weights (cut and weigh lengths of solder and then wrap them around
    the end of the shank) and experiment with different weights until you get
    the BW that you want (my preference is 37 grams).  When you find the hammer
    weights for your samples that work, plug them into a spread sheet and make a
    curve using those as guides or just do it manually.  Make sure your hammer
    set can achieve your targeted weights +/- .5 grams.  That will put you right
    on target.   
    
     
    
    You can also go the other way, take your hammer samples from a set and
    figure out about what the minimum reasonable weight is for those particular
    hammers with full tapering and go from there with the lead solder to check.
    
    
     
    
    Remember that the lower the action ratio the greater the key dip or shorter
    the hammer blow will need to be.  There is a point of diminishing returns.  
    
     
    
    BTW, knowing how much lead is in the keys is easy when you compare front
    weight maximums to measured FW.  
    
     
    
    David Love
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net
    www.davidlovepianos.com 
    
    


  • 12.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-04-2007 14:20
    From "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
    
    Hi David. Thanks for your input. I have a couple questions about hammer mass with Del-designed bellies. I did some experimenting with note #40. The picture you are referring to was actually note #16, not #20 - but that doesn't really matter. You are suggesting a SW for note 20 of 9g or maybe even a little less. That's a light hammer! But then, your reasoning may be right on, considering the new efficient Del-designed belly in this piano. 
    
    Do you set your hammer weights using Stanwood's Smart Chart SW curves? A 9g SW for note #20 falls about 2/3 of the way up from the extreme light curve to the light-medium curve. Staying on the same curve, note #40 should have a SW of about 8.0g or 8.1g, according to the Stanwood curves. That curve would have and A0 SW of about 9.5g and a C88 SW of about 4.2g. Is that what you are thinking? I realize, of course, these Stanwood curves are nothing set in stone - a particular piano may do better with a curve that crosses into other zones on Stanwood's Smart Chart. What SW curves do you find working best with Del's designs? What kind of hammers are you favoring? Probably a Ronson. With what kind of felt?
    
    Note #40 originally had four 12g leads in it. I put a 17mm knuckle and an 8g SW hammer on - popped out the two leads closest to the key front and measured DW - it is now less than 50g. If a light SW range works well for this piano belly, it would seem my problems are pretty close to over. 
    
    Part of my initial confusion may also be related to info on the Abel shank/knuckle data. They offer two shank/knuckle/flange assemblies for old Knabes - their data indicates that one has an 18mm core-to-center distance, and the other is 17mm. The shank assemblies I received from Brooks have a 16mm distance. I'm not sure why. I'll give Wally a jingle on Friday.
    
    Terry Farrell
      


  • 13.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-03-2007 21:24
    From Erwinspiano@aol.com
    
    Or the regulation
        Dale
     
     
    David Love wrote
    
    Moving  the knuckle (better to have bought the shank with the correct knuckle 
    to begin  with) to 17 mm and taking 1 gram off the hammer you will achieve 
    approximately  the same goal as moving the knuckle to 18 mm (maybe a little 
    better in  fact). 
    
    
     
    
    
    
    ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
    


  • 14.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-03-2007 21:31
    From Jon Page <jonpage@comcast.net>
    
    >Moving  the knuckle (better to have bought the shank with the correct knuckle
    >to begin  with) to 17 mm and taking 1 gram off the hammer you will achieve
    >approximately  the same goal as moving the knuckle to 18 mm (maybe a little
    >better in  fact).
    
    Actually, it's better to start with parts from the fabulous "Parts Kits".
    
    Select your parts for optimum performance before you buy the sets.
    
    -- 
    
    Regards,
    
    Jon Page
    


  • 15.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-04-2007 03:46
    From "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
    
    Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.Well Jon, I did start with the "Parts Kit". In fact, I started with both "Parts Kits": both the Renner kit and the Abel kit from Wally Brooks. The wippens are Renner and the shanks/flanges are Abel.
    
    I might not be very far along this road to action mastery, but at least I am able identify a bunch of red flags and know that something isn't right - might not know exactly how to correct it - but then again, that's what this list and the archives are for!
    
    I know that I've installed a dy-no-mite belly in this Knabe, but if I put a lackluster action into it, what do I have? (Answer: a crap piano.)
    
    Jon and Dave, if I knew more about what the heck it was that I was doing with these actions, I would likely have bought a 17mm knuckle. At first try, the 16mm, which were identical to the originals and were identified in the Brooks kit at being specifically designed for the Knabe, seemed to work reasonably well. Oh well.
    
    In fact, if I find that 17mm is preferable to the 16mm (and it appears that it is), if I can find a pre-made 17mm that otherwise fits, I will likely just purchase a set of 17mm. I can likely use the 16mm at some point on some other piano.
    
    Thanks for all the input from you guys - I really appreciate it. First a long bike ride this morning, then a little action messing-about, then the barbie. Tomorrow many service calls. Friday major action assessment - will dig into it then and get with y'all. Thanks again.
    
    Terry Farrell
      


  • 16.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-03-2007 21:57
    From william ballard <yardbird@vermontel.net>
    
    On Jul 3, 2007, at 2:05 PM, Farrell wrote:
    > I'm working on an 1890s Knabe grand. Everything in the action is  
    > new except rails and keyframe (both of which have been rebuilt) and  
    > action brackets.
    
     From the pix, it's clear that this is one of these 19th century  
    actions with extremely tall string heights. The line from the Rep  
    center to the cap/heel contact looks almost as steeply inclined than  
    the line from the hammer center to the knuckle/jack contact. The  
    further from horizontal is the swing of your levers, the more of the  
    the arc's motion ends up in the horizontal vector rather than the  
    vertical. It's a form of action inefficiency aggravated by tall  
    string heights. The only solution is to raise the keybed (......what  
    is this guy, nuts or sumpin'?)
    
    On Jul 3, 2007, at 4:11 PM, Farrell wrote:
    > How can you be so smart to know that this action had lots of lead  
    > in the keys?  ;-)
    
    On Jul 3, 2007, at 2:05 PM, Farrell wrote:
    > FW: 36.25 (0.966 of Stanwood's maximum FWs)
    
    Speaking of which, you didn't list a SW. (Or was that the "F= 11.5")
    
    Mr. Bill
    


  • 17.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-04-2007 10:08
    From "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
    
    


  • 18.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-04-2007 11:38
    From william ballard <yardbird@vermontel.net>
    
    On Jul 4, 2007, at 12:07 PM, Farrell wrote:
    > > It's a form of action inefficiency aggravated by tall
    > > string heights. The only solution is to raise the keybed (......what
    > > is this guy, nuts or sumpin'?)
    > Man, I'll go to some pretty far extremes for the no compromise  
    > approach, but..........
    
    That's how Yamaha sets its string heights, right? String up the  
    inside rim, mount the outside rim, and then trim off the bottoms edge  
    of the arms of the rim, so the the keybed attached thereunderneathto  
    will be the correct distant from the strings. On your Knabe, I'd  
    guess that raising the keybed 1" would force you into a new back  
    action, the original one having been designed for a taller back  
    action cavity.
    
    I have no idea why a majority of 19th century factories thought there  
    was an advantage in tall string heights. Steinway didn't, neither did  
    M&H. The lower the string heights the more horizontal your levers can  
    be.
    
    Let me know if i starting talking you into raising the keybed, so i  
    can come back an start talking you out of it. <g>
    
    > Indeed, you are correct. SW on that note (#16) was 11.9 (as  
    > indicated on the hammer)
    The hammer from note #29.........
    
    Mr. Bill
    


  • 19.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-04-2007 12:12
    From "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
    
    The hammers I put on for testing a dozen notes or so are from several 
    different old pianos. These are old junk hammers. I just grabbed and trimmed 
    or added lead to the hammer as needed to get my desired SW. The subject note 
    is #16 and the SW is 11.9g. The #29 on the hammers has no meaning on this 
    action.
    
    Sorry for the confusion.
    
    Terry Farrell
    
    


  • 20.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-03-2007 22:28
    From Erwinspiano@aol.com
    
    Sorry let's try this again. What I meant to say is that  the 18 mm knuckle 
    position will often take regulation specs to very do  places.  In this case a 
    very long dip ie..425 & short blow 1 1/2  inches. The rest ...what David said.
      Dale
     
     
    Or the regulation
    
        Dale
    
     
    David Love wrote
    
    Moving  the knuckle (better to have bought the shank with the correct knuckle 
    to  begin with) to 17 mm and taking 1 gram off the hammer you will achieve  
    approximately the same goal as moving the knuckle to 18 mm (maybe a little  
    better in fact).
    
    
    
     
    
    
    
    ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
    


  • 21.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 07-03-2007 22:33
    From "David Love" <davidlovepianos@comcast.net>
    
    Yes it is!
    
     
    
    David Love
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net
    www.davidlovepianos.com 
    
    


  • 22.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-04-2007 05:08
    From Jon Page <jonpage@comcast.net>
    
    >I started with both "Parts Kits":... both the Renner kit and the Abel kit ...
    
    Ah grasshoppah, you're one kit short. Tokiwa Parts Kit (P-tech, Brooks).
    (Don't feel bad, I have yet to get the Abel Kit).
    
    Looking at the configuration of the whippen, I would have included the
    Tokiwa M&H w/ adj. spring assist for consideration.  If these are used,
    you could remove one of the leads near the outer end because the spring
    will support the weight of the whippen effecting at least a -10 g on FW.
    
    Either the Abel or Tokiwa kit has a M&H shank with the knuckle at 18 mm,
    17 mm might be all you can squeeze out of it though, try many configurations
    to ascertain which provides the best regulation and lowest friction.
    
    If you find a shank to regulate well but the flange doesn't fit the rail,
    alter the rail by removing or adding material on the indexing edge.
    
    Measure twice. cut once. Don't let this happen to you,
    "Hey Moe, I cut it twice and it's still too short."
    "Ya moron, it's only short on one end."
    -- 
    
    Regards,
    
    Jon Page
    


  • 23.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 07-04-2007 05:40
    From Mike Spalding <mike.spalding1@verizon.net>
    
    Jon Page wrote:
    > Either the Abel or Tokiwa kit has a M&H shank with the knuckle at 18 mm,
    > 17 mm might be all you can squeeze out of it though, try many 
    > configurations
    > to ascertain which provides the best regulation and lowest friction.
    >
    > If you find a shank to regulate well but the flange doesn't fit the rail,
    > alter the rail by removing or adding material on the indexing edge.
    >
    If this Knabe is like later examples, the  shanks/flanges width is 
    narrower than  on most pianos.  In the treble it's just an 
    inconvenience, but in the basss section standard parts may not even 
    fit.  The Brooks/Abel shanks for Knabe are the best fit, width-wise, 
    although other suppliers' parts can be narrowed on the router table, 
    table saw, or band saw with a suitable jig. DAMHIK.
    
    Mike
    


  • 24.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-04-2007 10:20
      |   view attached
    From "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
    
    Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.
      


  • 25.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-04-2007 10:45
    From "Dean May" <deanmay@pianorebuilders.com>
    
    Terry wrote: You mean like in the picture above? I already did that once to
    the hammer rail on this action to mate with the Abel flanges. You mean
    modify this #$&% rail again?!?!?!  What was it a famous philosopher once
    said....... "measure once, cut twice"..... yeah, that must be it.  ;-)
    
     
    
    Just have your apprentice do it, the one with the short black hair and long
    nose. ;-)
    
     
    
    Dean
    
    Dean May             cell 812.239.3359 
    
    PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272 
    
    Terre Haute IN  47802
    
      _____  
    
     
    


  • 26.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-04-2007 11:08
      |   view attached
    From "Dean May" <deanmay@pianorebuilders.com>
    
    Oops, my bad. Short white hair
    
     
    
    
    
     
    
    Dean
    
    Dean May             cell 812.239.3359 
    
    PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272 
    
    Terre Haute IN  47802
    
      _____  
    
    From: Dean May [mailto:deanmay@pianorebuilders.com] 
    Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 12:45 PM
    To: 'Pianotech List'
    Subject: RE: Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.
    
     
    
    Terry wrote: You mean like in the picture above? I already did that once to
    the hammer rail on this action to mate with the Abel flanges. You mean
    modify this #$&% rail again?!?!?!  What was it a famous philosopher once
    said....... "measure once, cut twice"..... yeah, that must be it.  ;-)
    
     
    
    Just have your apprentice do it, the one with the short black hair and long
    nose. ;-)
    
     
    
    Dean
    
    Dean May             cell 812.239.3359 
    
    PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272 
    
    Terre Haute IN  47802
    
      _____  
    
     
    


  • 27.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-04-2007 11:00
    From Jon Page <jonpage@comcast.net>
    
    If possible, I'd opt for flanges with the tapered end
    so as to make spacing easier.
    -- 
    
    Regards,
    
    Jon Page
    


  • 28.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-04-2007 11:05
    From Erwinspiano@aol.com
    
    I give up today ..I can't spell & neither can the  spellchecker.  SHould be 
    ODD in place of do.
      Duhh!!
     D.E.
    
    Sorry let's try this again. What I meant to say is that the  18 mm knuckle 
    position will often take regulation specs to very do places.  In this case a 
    very long dip  ie..425 & short blow 1 1/2 inches. The rest ...what David  said.
      Dale
    
    
    
     
    
    
    
    ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
    


  • 29.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-04-2007 14:51
    From Jon Page <jonpage@comcast.net>
    
    I have found that a SW in the mid-medium zone works well.
    Sometimes 1/4 mendium.
    -- 
    
    Regards,
    
    Jon Page
    


  • 30.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-04-2007 17:41
    From Erwinspiano@aol.com
    
    Jon
      I like the mendium strike weights as  well.  See I'm not the only one who 
    caaent spell worth a diddle  today.
     Dale
    
    I have  found that a SW in the mid-medium zone works well.
    Sometimes 1/4  mendium.
    -- 
    
    Regards,
    
    Jon  Page
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
    


  • 31.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-04-2007 18:25
    From Jon Page <jonpage@comcast.net>
    
    >   I like the mendium strike weights as  well. DE
    
    And don't force the weights into the curve. If they start
    low or high and/or end low or high, select the average
    for a curve.
    -- 
    
    Regards,
    
    Jon Page
    


  • 32.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 07-04-2007 18:26
    From "David Love" <davidlovepianos@comcast.net>
    
    I meant a 9 gram hammer weight.  Strike weight would be plus the shank.  At
    note 1 I am generally in the 9 - 9.5 grams hammer weight.  Add 1.8 grams to
    get the strike weight on average with a Renner shank.  Your 10 gram hammer
    producing a 11.9 SW at note 16 is easily a full gram higher than I would
    normally go.  I don't use the smart chart, btw, I use what the set wants to
    give me.  If the curve deviates somewhat from the Smart Chart curve I don't
    sweat it or jump through hoops to manipulate.  It's a theoretical curve
    anyway.  The shape should fall in some range heavier to lighter but the
    exact shape can vary somewhat.  There are times when a heavier SW is
    desirable such as when the sounboard/rib assembly is quite heavy and you
    need more mass.  You won't have that problem on one of Del's designs.  The
    boards are very responsive.  If you are using Ronsen hammers with light
    maple moulding, you should be able to achieve the desired weight with only
    modest tapering.  Though each set varies somewhat they are generally not
    that heavy to begin with.    
    
     
    
    Advice earlier about the width of the flange is important if your piano has
    that problem-not all of them do.  As I see the data you put in, a medium
    weight hammer with at 17 mm flange will not produce any BW/FW conflicts.
    Alignment, convergence and all that is another issue that should be analyzed
    carefully but a move from 16 to 17 mm will not create any problems there
    anyway.  
    
     
    
    I save the 18mm hanging for action disasters that can't be addressed any
    other way for whatever reason.  I don't prefer it and if you go with an 18
    mm knuckle you must have more substantial hammer weights or you can have
    problems.  Actions such as Ron Overs (from Reno), which had 20 mm hanging
    had very heavy hammers which were, I presume, needed for the soundboard
    assembly design as well as to function properly with the 20 mm hanging.
    There can be similar problems if the hammer gets too light with a 17 mm
    knuckle.  You can see this if you've ever switched out a very light original
    Steinway hammer onto a 17 mm hanging (DAMHIK).  What I have suggested,
    however, doesn't approach that.  Each knuckle hanging, in my view, has an
    optimum range of hammer weights associated with it.  I've never really tried
    to figure out exactly what that is but basically the shorter the hanging the
    lighter the hammer and vice versa.  Compensating for a short knuckle hanging
    with a heavy hammer by having a low key ratio doesn't produce as nice a
    feeling action as properly matching the knuckle placement with the hammer
    weight.  It probably has something to do with inertia with a short knuckle
    hanging/heavy hammer, and speed of return and a tendency toward bouncing
    hammers with a long knuckle hanging and lighter hammer, but I've never tried
    to quantify it.  Anyway, with a 16 (or 15.5) hanging I try to keep the
    hammer pretty light.  As the knuckle moves out, the hammer should get
    heavier-at least under ideal circumstances.   
    
     
    
    David Love
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net
    www.davidlovepianos.com 
    
    


  • 33.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-07-2007 03:44
      |   view attached
    From "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
    
    Working again with note #40, I moved the knuckle way out to 18 mm and then back to 17 mm. I moved the wippen rail out 1.5 mm for an action spread of 115 mm - that made the jack/knuckle-core alignment very good. I was able to remove more lead from the key. Here's what I have now:
    
    Action Ratio:  5.7
    FW: 16.1g  (0.54 of Stanwood's maximum FW of 30.0g for note #40)
    KR: 5.2
    DW: 50g
    UW: 32g
    BW: 41g
    SW: 9.1g
    F: 9.0g
    Knuckle-Core distance:  17 mm
    Action Spread:  115 mm
    
    It appears all will regulate very nicely.
    
    I didn't measure blow and dip accurately at the time of this post.
    
    Couple questions though. Action ratio is in the "normal" ballpark, although perhaps not optimal for this action? 
    
    FW is way low for key #40, however, I have something in the range of a "good" amount of lead - see picture below:
    
    
    
    DW is nice - right where one would want it. UW is high - but is that bad? Does the key ever return too fast for a pianist? But why is it so high? I know that you don't get something for no price. Doesn't that suggest that the action is suffering somewhere else?
    
    BW is high. So? As another person asked: What does BW mean to or do to a pianist? What does it matter? What does it mean (I know the definition) from a practical standpoint? David Love - what makes you say that you like a 37g BW - is it because 37g BW "feels good" to you - or that you can't "feel" BW, but rather when you have a BW of 37 the other parameters usually are near their optimum?
    
    SW is right where David Love suggested - I extrapolated by simply following the Stanwood Smart Chart curve from his SW recommendations on notes #20 and #1. A 9.1g SW is just a hair below the exact middle of Stanwood's SW curves - so this is a medium SW.
    
    It seems to me I am getting closer to where I want to be. Good leading (key inertia), hammer weight and Down Weight. Seem like the only thing concerning me is my high Up Weight and Balance Weight. Are these a real concern? Why/how would the action perform better if I were able to get BW down to 37g (or there abouts) and reduce UW to 25g or so - all, or course, without changing  leading, SW and DW? Seems to me the only way to potentially do that would be changing the action ratio - but how - capstan, wip rail, knuckle? 
    
    And I still have the nagging question about key lead on this action: Why do I have such a very low FW, yet a "normal" amount of lead? This also has me scratching my head and worrying that something is horribly amiss elsewhere - again, the little bit I think I know about action balancing is that everything is a compromise - you don't get anything for free - the only way to pay Peter is to take from Paul.
    
    Man, when does it end?     :-0
    
    Thanks for all the input.
    
    Terry Farrell
      


  • 34.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-07-2007 06:12
    From Jon Page <jonpage@comcast.net>
    
    >Action Ratio:  5.7
    >FW: 16.1g  (0.54 of Stanwood's maximum FW of 30.0g for note #40)
    >KR: 5.2 DW: 50g UW: 32g BW: 41g SW: 9.1g F: 9.0g
    >Knuckle-Core distance:  17 mm  Action Spread:  115 mm
    >
    >It appears all will regulate very nicely.
    >I didn't measure blow and dip accurately at the time of this post.
    
    Then you don't know if it will regulate nicely.  Set your key height, 
    dip and blow to
    see where the jack ends up at the end of the keystroke. Adjust your leverage to
    have the jack end up in close proximity to the knuckle.
    
    >Couple questions though. Action ratio is in the "normal" ballpark, 
    >although perhaps not optimal for this action?
    
    I didn't know there was an optimal ratio for a given action. The goal 
    is to get it low
    and still be able to regulate the action
    
    >FW is way low for key #40, however, I have something in the range of 
    >a "good" amount of lead - see picture below:
    
    Low lead content means efficient action, that's a good thing.
    
    >DW is nice - right where one would want it. UW is high - but is that 
    >bad? Does the key ever return too fast for a pianist? But why is it 
    >so high? I know that you don't get something for no price. Doesn't 
    >that suggest that the action is suffering somewhere else?
    
    UW is high because Friction is low, that's a good thing = fast repetition
    
    >BW is high. So? As another person asked: What does BW mean to or do 
    >to a pianist? What does it matter? What does it mean (I know the 
    >definition) from a practical standpoint? David Love - what makes you 
    >say that you like a 37g BW - is it because 37g BW "feels good" to 
    >you - or that you can't "feel" BW, but rather when you have a BW of 
    >37 the other parameters usually are near their optimum?
    
    A comfortable range for BW is 38 to 42 with 38 on the light side and 
    42 on the heavy.
    S&S spec is around 35 for concert pianos (50/20). I usually shoot for 36 to 38
    
    >It seems to me I am getting closer to where I want to be. Good 
    >leading (key inertia), hammer weight and Down Weight. Seem like the 
    >only thing concerning me is my high Up Weight and Balance Weight. 
    >Are these a real concern? Why/how would the action perform better if 
    >I were able to get BW down to 37g (or there abouts) and reduce UW to 
    >25g or so - all, or course, without changing  leading, SW and DW? 
    >Seems to me the only way to potentially do that would be changing 
    >the action ratio - but how - capstan, wip rail, knuckle?
    
    If your current configuration (with key height, dip and blow set) 
    causes the jack to be
    away from the knuckle then you have the option to move the stack back a few mm.
    This will reduce the travel of the jack and reduce BW (and F,  maybe 
    1 g). It will also
    bring the capstan/cushion closer to the Magic Line, yet probably 
    still too far behind.
    
    The more efficient you make the action, the more transparent it 
    becomes to the pianist.
    A lower BW means less effort is needed to depress the keys.
    
    >And I still have the nagging question about key lead on this action: 
    >Why do I have such a very low FW, yet a "normal" amount of lead? 
    >This also has me scratching my head and worrying that something is 
    >horribly amiss elsewhere - again, the little bit I think I know 
    >about action balancing is that everything is a compromise - you 
    >don't get anything for free - the only way to pay Peter is to take 
    >from Paul.
    
    Low lead means efficient action, don';t worry about it...be happy about it.
    
    >Man, when does it end?     :-0
    
    Soon but it will start again with the next action.
    
    -- 
    
    Regards,
    
    Jon Page
    


  • 35.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-08-2007 07:02
    From "Absolute Piano" <absolutepiano@comcast.net>
    
    Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.Terry: DW is nice - right where one would want it. UW is high - but is that bad? Does the key ever return too fast for a pianist? But why is it so high? I know that you don't get something for no price. Doesn't that suggest that the action is suffering somewhere else?
    
    
    Jon: UW is high because Friction is low, that's a good thing = fast repetition
    
    I think you're right Terry and the low frictrion is the symptom. We tend to think "friction-bad" but pianists need a certain amount to feel in control. How is your pinning on your sample parts? One place where there is typically too little friction is in the balancier which will cause the repitition to be slower than if the friction were in the higher side of its range say 5g.
    
    Yay! One more variable, round and round we go~!
    
    
    Jude Reveley, RPT
    Absolute Piano Restoration, LLC
    Lowell, Massachusetts
    (978) 323-4545
    


  • 36.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 07-07-2007 21:36
    From "David Love" <davidlovepianos@comcast.net>
    
    Terry:
    
     
    
    Like Jon mentioned, check the regulation by sample.  A 41 BW with ? FW max
    makes me a bit nervous that the action ratio might be too low and will not
    regulate without excessive key dip.  The low ratio might be a function of
    the increased action spread.  I believe Renner parts (if that?s what you are
    using) are designed to have a spread of 113.5 mm.  
    
     
    
    My entire range of BWs is 34 to 42.  I use 34 when the customer has hand
    issues and needs something very light.  With 14 grams of friction in the low
    bass you will still have 20 grams of upweight.  That?s my absolute minimum.
    I will go up to 42 if, for some reason, someone wants it pretty heavy and
    meaty.  I have some customers who are just really big, strong muscular
    pianists and that kind of weight suits them better.  Some people believe
    that heavier touchweights are good for muscle devlopement (I don?t agree)
    and some concert players simply don?t want to ever go to a piano that is a
    surprise heavy action.  They want to be sure that their own piano is heavier
    than anything they are likely to encounter.  My preference for 37 is derived
    empirically.  I prefer actions just a shade on the light side.  With concert
    grands I may go 38 or 39 because I might need a slightly heavier hammer and
    because concert pianists have to deal with adrenaline which can make a too
    light action a problem.  Under normal relaxed playing, I prefer my hands and
    arms to remain completely relaxed.  A touchweight that allows for total
    relaxation through the hands, wrists, forearms and upper arms and allows the
    pianist to play with relaxed weight rather than muscular force produces the
    best tone.     
    
     
    
    High upweight is not a concern except as it relates to overall BW.  High
    upweight can be a function of unusually low friction.  After actions leave
    the shop the friction generally doesn't remain so low.  Your 50/32 could
    very easily turn into 52/30.  I prefer a DW of 48 in the middle of the
    piano.  Others may not agree.  A 37g BW which comes out 48/26 with
    approximately 80% FW max would be a very player friendly action?especially
    if it regulated properly.
    
     
    
    Your question about ?normal? lead I don?t quite understand.  Forget about
    normal for a minute.  The 3-2-1-0 pattern is not necessarily ?normal?.  Many
    of Stanwood?s actions have a 4-3-2-1 pattern but the leads are located more
    toward the balance rail.  The improvement in inertia and speed of return is
    arguably worth it.  The low FW that you currently have is because the two
    leads are located more toward the balance rail.  Typically, a two leaded key
    in that position would have the leads in the forward position, the ones that
    you removed.  If you were to decide to reduce the BW I would add one lead on
    the balance rail side of the existing two leads.  A 12-13 gram lead in that
    position would reduce the BW by about 4-5 grams.  There?s no reason to try
    and change the BW by altering the action ratio.  It may already be too low,
    it certainly isn?t too high.  Action ratios, among other things, will be a
    determinant in how the action regulates.  
    
     
    
    Imagine a simple lever: a teeter-totter.  With two people each weighing 100
    lbs sitting on each side with the fulcrum in the middle, they will balance
    each other and when they go up and down, they will travel the same distance.
    Move the fulcrum toward one end so that the distance from the fulcrum to the
    end is twice as long on one side as the other and the amount for force
    required to lift the person on the shorter side has been reduced by
    one-half.  Now it will only take a 50lb person on the long side to balance
    the 100 lb person on the short side.  However, the distance the person
    travels on the short side relative to the distance the person travels on the
    long side will have also been reduced by one-half.  In effect, you have
    reduced the BW by changing the leverage but because the distance traveled on
    the short side has also changed you have, in effect, changed the regulation.
    Now the person on the long side will have to travel through twice as long an
    arc to get the person on the short side to travel the same distance that
    they had before.  In other words, you will need more dip. 
    
     
    
    That?s the trade off.  In your case, you don?t need to make that change.
    Figure out with what arrangement the action will regulate properly.  Always
    do that first.  Then figure out if it will balance and with what SW and FW.
    If they don?t fit into your touchweight goals then either change the SW by
    reducing hammer weight or settle for a slightly higher FW while still
    keeping things under maximums or settle for a higher BW or some combination.
    
    
     
    
    And Jon is also right about when it ends.  It doesn?t.  On the next action
    you get to start all over.  
    
     
    
     
    
     
    
    David Love
    
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net
    
    www.davidlovepianos.com 
    
     
    
     
    
    


  • 37.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-08-2007 08:33
    From "Dean May" <deanmay@pianorebuilders.com>
    
    I've never studied Stanwood and it causes the head to spin to try to follow
    what you all are talking about. I am definitely saving these exchanges in my
    archives for when I am able to study it a little closer. But it is very
    interesting to me, and I have dabbled a little in adjusting touchweights.
    The more you do this stuff, the more intuitive it becomes, I guess. So I
    continue to try to follow the threads and immerse myself in the terminology.
    
     
    Action spread has always one of those great mystery areas. The first guy to
    train me (who it turned out knew very little about pianos) warned me to
    never touch it. So for many years I considered it a big taboo, which was
    probably not a bad thing. 
     
    Since these things do get intuitive I know it is hard to quantify, but can
    we try? We change action spread to make sure the jack is properly aligned
    with the knuckle. It must be done judiciously as it also causes changes in
    the action ratio, that is the amount of key movement to the amount of hammer
    movement. Then there is something called magic line that I have a vague
    understanding of. 
     
    For an intermediate regulator such as myself, i.e., one who is not going to
    make extensive geometry changes like moving capstans, knuckles or altering
    heels, are there any other criteria one should consider in setting action
    spread? 
     
    
    Dean
    
    Dean May             cell 812.239.3359 
    
    PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272 
    
    Terre Haute IN  47802
    
     
    
      _____  
    
    From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf
    Of David Love
    Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2007 11:36 PM
    To: 'Pianotech List'
    Subject: RE: Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.
    
    
    
    Terry:
    
     
    
    Like Jon mentioned, check the regulation by sample.  A 41 BW with ? FW max
    makes me a bit nervous that the action ratio might be too low and will not
    regulate without excessive key dip.  The low ratio might be a function of
    the increased action spread.  I believe Renner parts (if that?s what you are
    using) are designed to have a spread of 113.5 mm.  
    
     
    
    My entire range of BWs is 34 to 42.  I use 34 when the customer has hand
    issues and needs something very light.  With 14 grams of friction in the low
    bass you will still have 20 grams of upweight.  That?s my absolute minimum.
    I will go up to 42 if, for some reason, someone wants it pretty heavy and
    meaty.  I have some customers who are just really big, strong muscular
    pianists and that kind of weight suits them better.  Some people believe
    that heavier touchweights are good for muscle devlopement (I don?t agree)
    and some concert players simply don?t want to ever go to a piano that is a
    surprise heavy action.  They want to be sure that their own piano is heavier
    than anything they are likely to encounter.  My preference for 37 is derived
    empirically.  I prefer actions just a shade on the light side.  With concert
    grands I may go 38 or 39 because I might need a slightly heavier hammer and
    because concert pianists have to deal with adrenaline which can make a too
    light action a problem.  Under normal relaxed playing, I prefer my hands and
    arms to remain completely relaxed.  A touchweight that allows for total
    relaxation through the hands, wrists, forearms and upper arms and allows the
    pianist to play with relaxed weight rather than muscular force produces the
    best tone.     
    
     
    
    High upweight is not a concern except as it relates to overall BW.  High
    upweight can be a function of unusually low friction.  After actions leave
    the shop the friction generally doesn't remain so low.  Your 50/32 could
    very easily turn into 52/30.  I prefer a DW of 48 in the middle of the
    piano.  Others may not agree.  A 37g BW which comes out 48/26 with
    approximately 80% FW max would be a very player friendly action?especially
    if it regulated properly.
    
     
    
    Your question about ?normal? lead I don?t quite understand.  Forget about
    normal for a minute.  The 3-2-1-0 pattern is not necessarily ?normal?.  Many
    of Stanwood?s actions have a 4-3-2-1 pattern but the leads are located more
    toward the balance rail.  The improvement in inertia and speed of return is
    arguably worth it.  The low FW that you currently have is because the two
    leads are located more toward the balance rail.  Typically, a two leaded key
    in that position would have the leads in the forward position, the ones that
    you removed.  If you were to decide to reduce the BW I would add one lead on
    the balance rail side of the existing two leads.  A 12-13 gram lead in that
    position would reduce the BW by about 4-5 grams.  There?s no reason to try
    and change the BW by altering the action ratio.  It may already be too low,
    it certainly isn?t too high.  Action ratios, among other things, will be a
    determinant in how the action regulates.  
    
     
    
    Imagine a simple lever: a teeter-totter.  With two people each weighing 100
    lbs sitting on each side with the fulcrum in the middle, they will balance
    each other and when they go up and down, they will travel the same distance.
    Move the fulcrum toward one end so that the distance from the fulcrum to the
    end is twice as long on one side as the other and the amount for force
    required to lift the person on the shorter side has been reduced by
    one-half.  Now it will only take a 50lb person on the long side to balance
    the 100 lb person on the short side.  However, the distance the person
    travels on the short side relative to the distance the person travels on the
    long side will have also been reduced by one-half.  In effect, you have
    reduced the BW by changing the leverage but because the distance traveled on
    the short side has also changed you have, in effect, changed the regulation.
    Now the person on the long side will have to travel through twice as long an
    arc to get the person on the short side to travel the same distance that
    they had before.  In other words, you will need more dip. 
    
     
    
    That?s the trade off.  In your case, you don?t need to make that change.
    Figure out with what arrangement the action will regulate properly.  Always
    do that first.  Then figure out if it will balance and with what SW and FW.
    If they don?t fit into your touchweight goals then either change the SW by
    reducing hammer weight or settle for a slightly higher FW while still
    keeping things under maximums or settle for a higher BW or some combination.
    
    
     
    
    And Jon is also right about when it ends.  It doesn?t.  On the next action
    you get to start all over.  
    
     
    
     
    
     
    
    David Love
    
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net
    
    www.davidlovepianos.com 
    
     
    
     
    
    


  • 38.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-08-2007 13:10
    From "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
    
    As suggested, I fully regulated my sample note #40 and regulated friction. Friction in key is <2g, wip flange is 2-3g, shank flange is 5g (it was next to zero).
    
    Here's how things shake out:
    
    DW - 50g
    UW - 25g
    F - 12.5g
    BW - 37.5g
    R - 5.7
    SW - 9.0 (medium to medium-low)
    FW - 19.35 (65% or FW max 30g)
    KR - 0.52
    Knuckle - 17mm
    Action Spread - 114.5mm
    
    Blow - 47mm or 1-7/8"
    Dip - 10.65mm or 0.42"
    Letoff - 1.65mm or 1/16"
    Aftertouch - 0.85mm or 0.030"
    
    I know my letoff is set real close. I could also lessen blow to 1-3/4 which would give me a dip of 9.94mm or 0.39"
    
    Below is pic of leading on #40 (natural in center with 12g lead sitting on top at rear of key cover)
    
    
    
    
    Below is action at rest
    
    
    
    
    Below is action at full keystroke (w/ moderate pressure on key - the heavier end of my Spurlock gram weight set)
    
    
    
    
    Full keystroke again, but here you can see knuckle clearing the knuckle, and just kissing the fuzzy exterior of the jack cushion.
    
    
    
    
    I'm thinking I got this puppy licked. Am I missing anything? Anyone see something that is out of whack? Can I assume that if I can do 87 more notes like this one that I'll have one slick-playing action? Anything else that would/could improve it?
    
    My next post will contain many thank-you's. I'm afraid if I attempted to try to do justice to that need here, this post would get bumped for being too large!
    
    Jude - you were right about the rep lever pinning - I removed the spring from it and it was blowing in the wind - zero friction. I repinned it for 5g.
    
    And Jon - you mentioned that the capstan/heel magic line is out the window. Actually, the reason I put that heel extension on there was to get the contact on the magic line - it was way above it originally. You could just watch the original capstan slide along the heel. Now, the contact is right on the magic line at half blow and they move together is perfect unison - no sliding.
    
    Now, the rep-lever/knuckle contact of way out the window - lots of sliding there. Oh well. Thank goodness for Spurlock Teflon powder.
    
    Terry Farrell


  • 39.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-08-2007 09:45
    From Jon Page <jonpage@comcast.net>
    
    >Imagine a simple lever: a teeter-totter.
    
    A few years ago I posted about the range of motion of action components
    but lost my saved copy in a hard drive crash. I scoured the archives and
    couldn't find it. Perchance has someone saved it or knows where it is?
    -- 
    
    Regards,
    
    Jon Page
    


  • 40.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-08-2007 10:13
      |   view attached
    From Ron Nossaman <rnossaman@cox.net>
    
    > A few years ago I posted about the range of motion of action components
    > but lost my saved copy in a hard drive crash. I scoured the archives and
    > couldn't find it. Perchance has someone saved it or knows where it is?
    > 
    > -- 
    > 
    > 
    > Regards,
    > 
    > Jon Page
    
    
    This one?
    Ron N
    


  • 41.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-08-2007 10:31
    From Jon Page <jonpage@comcast.net>
    
    >  A few years ago I posted about the range of motion of action components
    >This one?
    
    No, it was just text which mostly dealt with capstan placement.
    -- 
    
    Regards,
    
    Jon Page
    


  • 42.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-08-2007 12:23
    From St?phane Collin <collin.s@skynet.be>
    
    Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.Hi all action performance busters.
    
    Nice thread for sure, makes me want to jump into my first action modification.
    
    May I mention the nice article of Jon Hartman in PTG journal february 2000, describing an empirical way of finding the perfect capstan line for the parts you have bought ?
    
    I'd like also to mention this way cool software : Alibre design.  There is a limited free version, Alibre design express, that lets you work in some moderate way.  It has a cool feature : you draw what you want (lines, circles, etc.) specifying what you want constrained and letting move what you want to let free.  It is really 3D mechanical modeling with animation capabilities.  You have no limit drawing 3D pieces, and you can assemble pieces in a so called assembly.  The free version limits you to assemblies of no more than 10 pieces, with full set of rules about how they can move.  I really want the full version, but it damned costs about 1500 euros.  When I think how many action parts I can buy for that money, I hesitate.
    I used it very efficiently to draw soundboard models, and tried also to model a full action with moving parts (this is not yet fully succeeded, but hopefully soon), in order to try first what kind of parts I should buy.
    
    Best regards.
    
    St?phane Collin.
    


  • 43.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-08-2007 11:25
    From Jurgen Goering <pianoforte@pianofortesupply.com>
    
    Ron, what you posted is a sketch showing the angle of the bushing cloth 
    seams on various flanges, as well as the friction specs.  That is 
    interesting and useful information, and I will save it.  But I don't 
    think that has much to do with the range of motion of components that 
    Jon was asking about.
    cheers
    
    Jurgen Goering
    Piano Forte Supply
    (250) 754-2440
    info@pianofortesupply.com
    http://www.pianofortesupply.com
    
    
    On Jul 8, 2007, at 9:08, Ron N wrote:
    >
    >> A few years ago I posted about the range of motion of action 
    >> components
    >> but lost my saved copy in a hard drive crash. I scoured the archives 
    >> and
    >> couldn't find it. Perchance has someone saved it or knows where it is?
    >> -- 
    >> Regards,
    >> Jon Page
    >
    >
    > This one?
    > Ron N
    > <friction renner.JPG>
    >
    > _______________________________________________
    > Pianotech list info http://www.ptg.org/mailman/listinfo/pianotech
    


  • 44.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-08-2007 13:13
    From Ron Nossaman <rnossaman@cox.net>
    
    > Ron, what you posted is a sketch showing the angle of the bushing cloth 
    > seams on various flanges, as well as the friction specs. That is 
    > interesting and useful information, and I will save it. But I don't 
    > think that has much to do with the range of motion of components that 
    > Jon was asking about.
    > cheers
    > 
    > Jurgen Goering
    
    Ah well, missed again. Good for *something*, at least. 
    Meanwhile, if anyone out there has a cleaner higher resolution 
    version of this, I'd like a copy.
    Ron N
    


  • 45.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-08-2007 13:13
    From "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
    
    I'm 99% sure I have one Ron. I'll be out in the shop later and I'll dig it 
    up and take a hi-rez pic of it for you.
    
    Terry Farrell
    
    


  • 46.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 07-08-2007 13:20
    From "David Love" <davidlovepianos@comcast.net>
    
    I prefer a shorter blow and less dip.  10 mm dip is my target.  10.25 on a
    concert grand.  Otherwise, it looks good.  5 g friction is slightly high for
    the shank.  Three grams would be my preference.   Different manufacturers
    have different specs and performance on the flange pinning.  
    
     
    
    David Love
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net
    www.davidlovepianos.com 
    
    


  • 47.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-08-2007 18:24
    From "Absolute Piano" <absolutepiano@comcast.net>
    
    I agree with David except you don't have much room to rob from your aftertouch, so you may have to find some compromise between your blow distance and dip. I like .040" for aftertouch. Otherwise, it looks sweet. Now for the work, right ;).
    
    Jude Reveley, RPT
    Absolute Piano Restoration, LLC
    Lowell, Massachusetts
    (978) 323-4545
      


  • 48.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-08-2007 14:00
    From Jon Page <jonpage@comcast.net>
    
    >Blow - 47mm or 1-7/8"
    >Dip - 10.65mm or 0.42"
    
    Why so much dip?
    
    -- 
    
    Regards,
    
    Jon Page
    


  • 49.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-08-2007 14:10
    From Jon Page <jonpage@comcast.net>
    
    here's one of them...
    
    http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech/2000-June/065872.html
    -- 
    
    Regards,
    
    Jon Page
    


  • 50.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Posted 07-12-2007 16:36
    From "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
    
    The following is a short followup to recent posts I have made regarding balancing an action from an 1890s Knabe grand. Thanks to many on the List for their help and suggestions. Special thanks to Jon Page and David Love for their lengthy reponses and detailed anayses. I know I'd still be scratching my head with a crap action without them - instead I'm scratching my head wondering "how'd that happen?" with a very nicely performing action. 
    
    Using their recommendations I finally got my first key (middle C) to work out to "desirable" numbers. Then I got the sharp next to it to work also - fortunately the capstan location I had chosen previously worked well for the sharp (the sharp and natural capstans are offset a few millimeters). Then I went down to note 4 and set it up according to the Stanwood charts for FW and SW, etc (I used 0.645 x FW maximums). Set it all up, regulated it fully and placed the gram weights on it - 50g DW, 25g UW, 37.5g BW, regulates perfectly, 10 mm dip - just too good to be true. Go up to note 78 (or so) and do the same thing - 48g DW, 26g UW, 37g BW, regulates perfectly, 10 mm dip - again, just too good to be true. These Stanwood charts and tables work like a charm. Basically, once you figure out 
    how to set one natural and one sharp up efficiently (the HARD part - and the part that still has me scratching my head), the rest is a piece of cake.
    
    Quite the system. Thanks again fellow Listees.
    
    Now just gotta do all this leading and repining and lots of other stuff 84 more times!
    
    Terry Farrell
    Farrell Piano
    


  • 51.  Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 07-14-2007 22:56
    From "David Love" <davidlovepianos@comcast.net>
    
    Of course, after delivering the message below, I just delivered an action
    for a Steinway D at 37 grams balance weight, 80% FW maximums, average 48 DW
    26 UW in the center of the piano and the customer thought it was too heavy.
    What do I know?
    
    David Love
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net
    www.davidlovepianos.com 
    
    
    
    Snip...? My preference for 37 BW is derived empirically.? I prefer actions
    just a shade on the light side...?