Pianotech

I'm hoping since Charles Rempel  has been on the list, it would be a good opportunity to voice my biggest irritation with dampp-chasers. It is a no-brainer in my opinion, and it shouldn't add much to the cost of the system and substantially improve it.

Those of us who install and promote humidity control know that one of the biggest problems with them is keeping them plugged in. This isn't as big an issue with the full-system as there is a light panel. However the basic system (humidistat and rods) has no LED telling you the thing is on. And so on a semi-regular basis these systems end up unplugged and the client doesn't realize it. 

I hate showing up to tune a piano with an unplugged dampp-chaser!! Because if i tune it and plug it in, most likely the tuning will go south within a couple of weeks. What I usually suggest to the client is to leave it unplugged, but plug it back in 3-4 weeks before the next tuning. The other option is to just reschedule the tuning = lost income. 

I've thought about trying to retrofit an led light to the system but it makes so much more sense to include it in the manufacturing process.  

I hope my friends at Dampp-chaser will hear my plea! Please add a light to verify the system is on. 

I also hope that other technicians will bug them about it to, as there is strength in numbers. 

------------------------------
Ryan Sowers
Olympia WA
360-705-4160
------------------------------

I'm hoping since Charles Rempel  has been on the list, it would be a good opportunity to voice my biggest irritation with dampp-chasers. It is a no-brainer in my opinion, and it shouldn't add much to the cost of the system and substantially improve it.

Those of us who install and promote humidity control know that one of the biggest problems with them is keeping them plugged in. This isn't as big an issue with the full-system as there is a light panel. However the basic system (humidistat and rods) has no LED telling you the thing is on. And so on a semi-regular basis these systems end up unplugged and the client doesn't realize it. 

I hate showing up to tune a piano with an unplugged dampp-chaser!! Because if i tune it and plug it in, most likely the tuning will go south within a couple of weeks. What I usually suggest to the client is to leave it unplugged, but plug it back in 3-4 weeks before the next tuning. The other option is to just reschedule the tuning = lost income. 

I've thought about trying to retrofit an led light to the system but it makes so much more sense to include it in the manufacturing process.  

I hope my friends at Dampp-chaser will hear my plea! Please add a light to verify the system is on. 

I also hope that other technicians will bug them about it to, as there is strength in numbers. 

------------------------------
Ryan Sowers
Olympia WA
360-705-4160
------------------------------

I'm hoping since Charles Rempel  has been on the list, it would be a good opportunity to voice my biggest irritation with dampp-chasers. It is a no-brainer in my opinion, and it shouldn't add much to the cost of the system and substantially improve it.

Those of us who install and promote humidity control know that one of the biggest problems with them is keeping them plugged in. This isn't as big an issue with the full-system as there is a light panel. However the basic system (humidistat and rods) has no LED telling you the thing is on. And so on a semi-regular basis these systems end up unplugged and the client doesn't realize it. 

I hate showing up to tune a piano with an unplugged dampp-chaser!! Because if i tune it and plug it in, most likely the tuning will go south within a couple of weeks. What I usually suggest to the client is to leave it unplugged, but plug it back in 3-4 weeks before the next tuning. The other option is to just reschedule the tuning = lost income. 

I've thought about trying to retrofit an led light to the system but it makes so much more sense to include it in the manufacturing process.  

I hope my friends at Dampp-chaser will hear my plea! Please add a light to verify the system is on. 

I also hope that other technicians will bug them about it to, as there is strength in numbers. 

------------------------------
Ryan Sowers
Olympia WA
360-705-4160
------------------------------

I think Dampp Chaser would be responsive to this if enough technicians requested it. I would like a light that would indicate the dehumidifier has cycled on and the bars are warming the air. A power light only indicates it is plugged in but does not mean it is working. I always check the units on a service call even if it means taking the bottom panel off and forcing the humidistat to work.With all the sensor options out there it should be fairly simple to add a retro fit like the sensor on the smart heater bar that would clip on the actual dehumidifier rods. I guess the power would have to come through the humidistat . Maybe the lights could be BLUE or WHITE LEDS ? Maybe I should invent it and sell it to Dampp Chaser.  As far as power feeds make sure the system is not plugged into an outlet powered by a wall switch. As Ruth Ziner says- Ask Me How I Know...

Speaking of buzzers I installed two systems with them however one went of in the middle of a concert and the other kept waking up the house at odd times. Finally had to insulate the speakers .

------------------------------
James Kelly
Pawleys Island SC
843-325-4357
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-17-2015 20:45
From: Ryan Sowers
Subject: My biggest issue with Dampp-Chasers

I'm hoping since Charles Rempel  has been on the list, it would be a good opportunity to voice my biggest irritation with dampp-chasers. It is a no-brainer in my opinion, and it shouldn't add much to the cost of the system and substantially improve it.

Those of us who install and promote humidity control know that one of the biggest problems with them is keeping them plugged in. This isn't as big an issue with the full-system as there is a light panel. However the basic system (humidistat and rods) has no LED telling you the thing is on. And so on a semi-regular basis these systems end up unplugged and the client doesn't realize it. 

I hate showing up to tune a piano with an unplugged dampp-chaser!! Because if i tune it and plug it in, most likely the tuning will go south within a couple of weeks. What I usually suggest to the client is to leave it unplugged, but plug it back in 3-4 weeks before the next tuning. The other option is to just reschedule the tuning = lost income. 

I've thought about trying to retrofit an led light to the system but it makes so much more sense to include it in the manufacturing process.  

I hope my friends at Dampp-chaser will hear my plea! Please add a light to verify the system is on. 

I also hope that other technicians will bug them about it to, as there is strength in numbers. 

------------------------------
Ryan Sowers
Olympia WA
360-705-4160
------------------------------

I wondered how long it would take after I reared my ugly head for the questions to come. ;-)

No problem. I do welcome the input, and believe it or not DC is a company that listens and changes things. I know this because you will soon see some changes that are due to suggestions that I made. I'll take both the credit or the blame depending on what you think of them. 

Let me respond to the comments posted so far. Having a light that indicates the System is plugged in has been discussed before, both internally and with technicians. I also think that in some cases it might be a good thing. Mr. Highfield makes a couple of excellent points. From the manufacturer's standpoint, it would simply be swapping one set of "problems" or phone calls for another. One of the objections that we already face is that many piano owners do not want to see a light on their piano. Never mind have a power cord running from it or the water tank hanging below it in a grand. If there were a light, piano owners would call and say that it broken because the light is on but the rods are cold. 

As to the "how much could it cost?", you'd be surprised. There is so much more to it than meets the eye. It would take many years of production just to recover the initial costs of such a project. This combined with the fact that many technicians sell these primarily because of the cost, would make the whole thing problematic. My best guess is that a light would increase the cost of the System by 10% if amortized over the course of 5 years. I know this sounds like an overstatement, but consider just two of the issues. The first is the cost of making new molds for the cases that would incorporate a plug for the light. The second is putting the entire System through UL (or equivalent) re-certification in the US, Canada, Germany, France, GB, Brazil.......I hope you see what I mean. Changes to our Systems are doable, but have to be justifiable from a functionality and monetary standpoint. 

Personally, I would also have to disagree with the premise that having a light would stop people from unplugging it. And some would unplug it just to make the light go away because they found it annoying. We do all know that full Systems with light panels get unplugged too. 

I think that the best alternative we can provided is to vigorously educate the piano owners. I know that some technicians do a great job of this and others don't. Piano customers are people too and can be as forgetful as anyone. There is no magic bullet answer to this question in my estimation.

There is no question that showing up to tune a piano with an unplugged DC is a pain. It's happened to me too. It's very much like seat-belts, if you don't use them they won't help. If there is a way to completely eradicate this blight from our land, I am not yet aware of it. 

Thanks for the input. I certainly have no problem addressing questions and concerns. Many of the changes that have become part of the System over the years have come from technicians. 

Here's one that I will subtly throw in to the pot. What would be the reaction to a small WiFi connected device that would notify the piano owner's phone when the piano needed water? No promises.

------------------------------
Charles Rempel
Sales & Marketing Director
Dampp-Chaser Corp.
HENDERSONVILLE NC
828-692-8271
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-17-2015 23:57
From: James Kelly
Subject: My biggest issue with Dampp-Chasers

I think Dampp Chaser would be responsive to this if enough technicians requested it. I would like a light that would indicate the dehumidifier has cycled on and the bars are warming the air. A power light only indicates it is plugged in but does not mean it is working. I always check the units on a service call even if it means taking the bottom panel off and forcing the humidistat to work.With all the sensor options out there it should be fairly simple to add a retro fit like the sensor on the smart heater bar that would clip on the actual dehumidifier rods. I guess the power would have to come through the humidistat . Maybe the lights could be BLUE or WHITE LEDS ? Maybe I should invent it and sell it to Dampp Chaser.  As far as power feeds make sure the system is not plugged into an outlet powered by a wall switch. As Ruth Ziner says- Ask Me How I Know...

Speaking of buzzers I installed two systems with them however one went of in the middle of a concert and the other kept waking up the house at odd times. Finally had to insulate the speakers .

------------------------------
James Kelly
Pawleys Island SC
843-325-4357
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-17-2015 20:45
From: Ryan Sowers
Subject: My biggest issue with Dampp-Chasers

I'm hoping since Charles Rempel  has been on the list, it would be a good opportunity to voice my biggest irritation with dampp-chasers. It is a no-brainer in my opinion, and it shouldn't add much to the cost of the system and substantially improve it.

Those of us who install and promote humidity control know that one of the biggest problems with them is keeping them plugged in. This isn't as big an issue with the full-system as there is a light panel. However the basic system (humidistat and rods) has no LED telling you the thing is on. And so on a semi-regular basis these systems end up unplugged and the client doesn't realize it. 

I hate showing up to tune a piano with an unplugged dampp-chaser!! Because if i tune it and plug it in, most likely the tuning will go south within a couple of weeks. What I usually suggest to the client is to leave it unplugged, but plug it back in 3-4 weeks before the next tuning. The other option is to just reschedule the tuning = lost income. 

I've thought about trying to retrofit an led light to the system but it makes so much more sense to include it in the manufacturing process.  

I hope my friends at Dampp-chaser will hear my plea! Please add a light to verify the system is on. 

I also hope that other technicians will bug them about it to, as there is strength in numbers. 

------------------------------
Ryan Sowers
Olympia WA
360-705-4160
------------------------------

I'm hoping since Charles Rempel  has been on the list, it would be a good opportunity to voice my biggest irritation with dampp-chasers. It is a no-brainer in my opinion, and it shouldn't add much to the cost of the system and substantially improve it.

Those of us who install and promote humidity control know that one of the biggest problems with them is keeping them plugged in. This isn't as big an issue with the full-system as there is a light panel. However the basic system (humidistat and rods) has no LED telling you the thing is on. And so on a semi-regular basis these systems end up unplugged and the client doesn't realize it. 

I hate showing up to tune a piano with an unplugged dampp-chaser!! Because if i tune it and plug it in, most likely the tuning will go south within a couple of weeks. What I usually suggest to the client is to leave it unplugged, but plug it back in 3-4 weeks before the next tuning. The other option is to just reschedule the tuning = lost income. 

I've thought about trying to retrofit an led light to the system but it makes so much more sense to include it in the manufacturing process.  

I hope my friends at Dampp-chaser will hear my plea! Please add a light to verify the system is on. 

I also hope that other technicians will bug them about it to, as there is strength in numbers. 

------------------------------
Ryan Sowers
Olympia WA
360-705-4160
------------------------------

I'm hoping since Charles Rempel  has been on the list, it would be a good opportunity to voice my biggest irritation with dampp-chasers. It is a no-brainer in my opinion, and it shouldn't add much to the cost of the system and substantially improve it.

Those of us who install and promote humidity control know that one of the biggest problems with them is keeping them plugged in. This isn't as big an issue with the full-system as there is a light panel. However the basic system (humidistat and rods) has no LED telling you the thing is on. And so on a semi-regular basis these systems end up unplugged and the client doesn't realize it. 

I hate showing up to tune a piano with an unplugged dampp-chaser!! Because if i tune it and plug it in, most likely the tuning will go south within a couple of weeks. What I usually suggest to the client is to leave it unplugged, but plug it back in 3-4 weeks before the next tuning. The other option is to just reschedule the tuning = lost income. 

I've thought about trying to retrofit an led light to the system but it makes so much more sense to include it in the manufacturing process.  

I hope my friends at Dampp-chaser will hear my plea! Please add a light to verify the system is on. 

I also hope that other technicians will bug them about it to, as there is strength in numbers. 

------------------------------
Ryan Sowers
Olympia WA
360-705-4160
------------------------------

       I can't believe the biggest Dampp-Chaser issue for anybody is an on/off light, although it would be a good addition.  It's extremely rare that I encounter a D-C system that has been kept plugged in and the water regularly filled.  7 or more times out of 10 the thing has been off for months or years and the pads are thickly crusted up with mineral deposits -- I mean 3/4" thick.  I end up having to take the whole thing apart, take the tank out to the front porch or back yard and scrape all the gunk off with a pocket knife, which of course also scrapes the paint off the humidifier rod, but most times the paint has already sloughed off or been eaten off by chemical action.  Then to get the last of the stuff off, I have to rub it down with a ScotchBrite pad or steel wool.  The tank and filler tube are usually gross -- full of algae, mildew, mold.  So I ask to go outside and borrow the garden hose to wash everything out.  Can't do this when it's 20 degrees and snow on the ground, of course -- gotta reschedule for the springtime, or take the tank to your shop, clean it, and bring it back.  And there's no way I know of to clean the black mildew or mold from the filler tube.  Have to replace it, I guess. And in an apartment or other dwelling with no front or back yard, it's a major pain to try and do the messy job at their kitchen sink.  These neglected systems are often so bad it would be better to install a whole new humidifier rod and tank, if you can get the client to pay for it.    

 The system does do its job -- I have one in my upright -- but I'm a technician and am aware of it all the time.

 One thing I've always found a bit laughable is the baffle on the grand systems.  Instead of all the warm humid air going straight up to one spot on the soundboard above the tank, the baffle just makes it go to two smaller spots at each end of the tank.  I find it hard to believe that, especially in larger grands, the moisture gets distributed evenly across the whole bottom of the board.  But maybe I'm wrong and the air currents in the room caused by convection, people moving around, doors opening and closing, fans, etc. are enough to create an even layer of humid air under there (??).

A problem I find with installations that are not my doing, is that the installer hasn't allowed an easy way to undo all the cords in order to be able to drop the tank all the way down to the floor.  I have to undo all the clips, clamps and ties and relocate them all when I'm done.  You can't do the above work with the tank still hanging from the rods!  I'm in favor of just hanging all those hanked or coiled cords from hooks or from the ends of the support rods, rather than screwing everything semi-permanently to the beams, as though the unit will never have to be removed!

Again, these systems are OK; they do their job, but the majority of them get neglected and I dread what I'm going to find when I encounter one.  I recommend them only for those pianos that take wild pitch swings with the changing seasons, but for the most part I can't rave about them.  

David Nereson

Registered Piano Technician
Denver CO
303-355-5770
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-17-2015 20:45
From: Ryan Sowers
Subject: My biggest issue with Dampp-Chasers

I'm hoping since Charles Rempel  has been on the list, it would be a good opportunity to voice my biggest irritation with dampp-chasers. It is a no-brainer in my opinion, and it shouldn't add much to the cost of the system and substantially improve it.

Those of us who install and promote humidity control know that one of the biggest problems with them is keeping them plugged in. This isn't as big an issue with the full-system as there is a light panel. However the basic system (humidistat and rods) has no LED telling you the thing is on. And so on a semi-regular basis these systems end up unplugged and the client doesn't realize it. 

I hate showing up to tune a piano with an unplugged dampp-chaser!! Because if i tune it and plug it in, most likely the tuning will go south within a couple of weeks. What I usually suggest to the client is to leave it unplugged, but plug it back in 3-4 weeks before the next tuning. The other option is to just reschedule the tuning = lost income. 

I've thought about trying to retrofit an led light to the system but it makes so much more sense to include it in the manufacturing process.  

I hope my friends at Dampp-chaser will hear my plea! Please add a light to verify the system is on. 

I also hope that other technicians will bug them about it to, as there is strength in numbers. 

------------------------------
Ryan Sowers
Olympia WA
360-705-4160
------------------------------

Hi David,

Years ago (at least 15-20) I started finding tanks needing deep cleaning and hardware replacement.  When I found out how much work it was and compared the labor cost to the price of new, it made an easy decision.  I carry tanks, bars, and all hardware in my car.  It's more practical for you, and better for the customer to have new.  The HM5 package is wonderful for this.  It gives you the complete water side and H5 humidistat with all the attachments, and hardware for both uprights and grands.  And the box is small enough to easily fit in the trunk. 

It sounds like you may be following one person who may have retired.  This is an opportunity for you to make some money, develop good relationships with your new clients, and provide a much-needed service.  Go for it!

As to the baffle, the low heat from the humidifier bar creates air movement (warm air rises) so the baffle does get that air circulating, as well as protecting the area directly above it.

------------------------------
Ruth Zeiner
ruth@alliedpiano.com
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-18-2015 17:38
From: David Nereson
Subject: My biggest issue with Dampp-Chasers

       I can't believe the biggest Dampp-Chaser issue for anybody is an on/off light, although it would be a good addition.  It's extremely rare that I encounter a D-C system that has been kept plugged in and the water regularly filled.  7 or more times out of 10 the thing has been off for months or years and the pads are thickly crusted up with mineral deposits -- I mean 3/4" thick.  I end up having to take the whole thing apart, take the tank out to the front porch or back yard and scrape all the gunk off with a pocket knife, which of course also scrapes the paint off the humidifier rod, but most times the paint has already sloughed off or been eaten off by chemical action.  Then to get the last of the stuff off, I have to rub it down with a ScotchBrite pad or steel wool.  The tank and filler tube are usually gross -- full of algae, mildew, mold.  So I ask to go outside and borrow the garden hose to wash everything out.  Can't do this when it's 20 degrees and snow on the ground, of course -- gotta reschedule for the springtime, or take the tank to your shop, clean it, and bring it back.  And there's no way I know of to clean the black mildew or mold from the filler tube.  Have to replace it, I guess. And in an apartment or other dwelling with no front or back yard, it's a major pain to try and do the messy job at their kitchen sink.  These neglected systems are often so bad it would be better to install a whole new humidifier rod and tank, if you can get the client to pay for it.    

 The system does do its job -- I have one in my upright -- but I'm a technician and am aware of it all the time.

 One thing I've always found a bit laughable is the baffle on the grand systems.  Instead of all the warm humid air going straight up to one spot on the soundboard above the tank, the baffle just makes it go to two smaller spots at each end of the tank.  I find it hard to believe that, especially in larger grands, the moisture gets distributed evenly across the whole bottom of the board.  But maybe I'm wrong and the air currents in the room caused by convection, people moving around, doors opening and closing, fans, etc. are enough to create an even layer of humid air under there (??).

A problem I find with installations that are not my doing, is that the installer hasn't allowed an easy way to undo all the cords in order to be able to drop the tank all the way down to the floor.  I have to undo all the clips, clamps and ties and relocate them all when I'm done.  You can't do the above work with the tank still hanging from the rods!  I'm in favor of just hanging all those hanked or coiled cords from hooks or from the ends of the support rods, rather than screwing everything semi-permanently to the beams, as though the unit will never have to be removed!

Again, these systems are OK; they do their job, but the majority of them get neglected and I dread what I'm going to find when I encounter one.  I recommend them only for those pianos that take wild pitch swings with the changing seasons, but for the most part I can't rave about them.  

David Nereson

Registered Piano Technician
Denver CO
303-355-5770
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-17-2015 20:45
From: Ryan Sowers
Subject: My biggest issue with Dampp-Chasers

I'm hoping since Charles Rempel  has been on the list, it would be a good opportunity to voice my biggest irritation with dampp-chasers. It is a no-brainer in my opinion, and it shouldn't add much to the cost of the system and substantially improve it.

Those of us who install and promote humidity control know that one of the biggest problems with them is keeping them plugged in. This isn't as big an issue with the full-system as there is a light panel. However the basic system (humidistat and rods) has no LED telling you the thing is on. And so on a semi-regular basis these systems end up unplugged and the client doesn't realize it. 

I hate showing up to tune a piano with an unplugged dampp-chaser!! Because if i tune it and plug it in, most likely the tuning will go south within a couple of weeks. What I usually suggest to the client is to leave it unplugged, but plug it back in 3-4 weeks before the next tuning. The other option is to just reschedule the tuning = lost income. 

I've thought about trying to retrofit an led light to the system but it makes so much more sense to include it in the manufacturing process.  

I hope my friends at Dampp-chaser will hear my plea! Please add a light to verify the system is on. 

I also hope that other technicians will bug them about it to, as there is strength in numbers. 

------------------------------
Ryan Sowers
Olympia WA
360-705-4160
------------------------------

I wouldn't mind if the screws included in the units weren't black. It makes it hard to see them when you're fumbling around under a piano. Or perhaps throw in an assortment of screws,  some black, some nickel plated...

------------------------------
Zeno Wood
Brooklyn, NY
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-19-2015 13:26
From: Ruth Zeiner
Subject: My biggest issue with Dampp-Chasers

Hi David,

Years ago (at least 15-20) I started finding tanks needing deep cleaning and hardware replacement.  When I found out how much work it was and compared the labor cost to the price of new, it made an easy decision.  I carry tanks, bars, and all hardware in my car.  It's more practical for you, and better for the customer to have new.  The HM5 package is wonderful for this.  It gives you the complete water side and H5 humidistat with all the attachments, and hardware for both uprights and grands.  And the box is small enough to easily fit in the trunk. 

It sounds like you may be following one person who may have retired.  This is an opportunity for you to make some money, develop good relationships with your new clients, and provide a much-needed service.  Go for it!

As to the baffle, the low heat from the humidifier bar creates air movement (warm air rises) so the baffle does get that air circulating, as well as protecting the area directly above it.

------------------------------
Ruth Zeiner
ruth@alliedpiano.com
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-18-2015 17:38
From: David Nereson
Subject: My biggest issue with Dampp-Chasers

       I can't believe the biggest Dampp-Chaser issue for anybody is an on/off light, although it would be a good addition.  It's extremely rare that I encounter a D-C system that has been kept plugged in and the water regularly filled.  7 or more times out of 10 the thing has been off for months or years and the pads are thickly crusted up with mineral deposits -- I mean 3/4" thick.  I end up having to take the whole thing apart, take the tank out to the front porch or back yard and scrape all the gunk off with a pocket knife, which of course also scrapes the paint off the humidifier rod, but most times the paint has already sloughed off or been eaten off by chemical action.  Then to get the last of the stuff off, I have to rub it down with a ScotchBrite pad or steel wool.  The tank and filler tube are usually gross -- full of algae, mildew, mold.  So I ask to go outside and borrow the garden hose to wash everything out.  Can't do this when it's 20 degrees and snow on the ground, of course -- gotta reschedule for the springtime, or take the tank to your shop, clean it, and bring it back.  And there's no way I know of to clean the black mildew or mold from the filler tube.  Have to replace it, I guess. And in an apartment or other dwelling with no front or back yard, it's a major pain to try and do the messy job at their kitchen sink.  These neglected systems are often so bad it would be better to install a whole new humidifier rod and tank, if you can get the client to pay for it.    

 The system does do its job -- I have one in my upright -- but I'm a technician and am aware of it all the time.

 One thing I've always found a bit laughable is the baffle on the grand systems.  Instead of all the warm humid air going straight up to one spot on the soundboard above the tank, the baffle just makes it go to two smaller spots at each end of the tank.  I find it hard to believe that, especially in larger grands, the moisture gets distributed evenly across the whole bottom of the board.  But maybe I'm wrong and the air currents in the room caused by convection, people moving around, doors opening and closing, fans, etc. are enough to create an even layer of humid air under there (??).

A problem I find with installations that are not my doing, is that the installer hasn't allowed an easy way to undo all the cords in order to be able to drop the tank all the way down to the floor.  I have to undo all the clips, clamps and ties and relocate them all when I'm done.  You can't do the above work with the tank still hanging from the rods!  I'm in favor of just hanging all those hanked or coiled cords from hooks or from the ends of the support rods, rather than screwing everything semi-permanently to the beams, as though the unit will never have to be removed!

Again, these systems are OK; they do their job, but the majority of them get neglected and I dread what I'm going to find when I encounter one.  I recommend them only for those pianos that take wild pitch swings with the changing seasons, but for the most part I can't rave about them.  

David Nereson

Registered Piano Technician
Denver CO
303-355-5770
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-17-2015 20:45
From: Ryan Sowers
Subject: My biggest issue with Dampp-Chasers

I'm hoping since Charles Rempel  has been on the list, it would be a good opportunity to voice my biggest irritation with dampp-chasers. It is a no-brainer in my opinion, and it shouldn't add much to the cost of the system and substantially improve it.

Those of us who install and promote humidity control know that one of the biggest problems with them is keeping them plugged in. This isn't as big an issue with the full-system as there is a light panel. However the basic system (humidistat and rods) has no LED telling you the thing is on. And so on a semi-regular basis these systems end up unplugged and the client doesn't realize it. 

I hate showing up to tune a piano with an unplugged dampp-chaser!! Because if i tune it and plug it in, most likely the tuning will go south within a couple of weeks. What I usually suggest to the client is to leave it unplugged, but plug it back in 3-4 weeks before the next tuning. The other option is to just reschedule the tuning = lost income. 

I've thought about trying to retrofit an led light to the system but it makes so much more sense to include it in the manufacturing process.  

I hope my friends at Dampp-chaser will hear my plea! Please add a light to verify the system is on. 

I also hope that other technicians will bug them about it to, as there is strength in numbers. 

------------------------------
Ryan Sowers
Olympia WA
360-705-4160
------------------------------