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CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

  • 1.  CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 01-21-2014 12:50
    Hi List,

    I believe I have found a good candidate for a CA glue pinblock treatment on a 1930s Baldwin baby grand.  The client wants to get a few more years out of it before moving and will likely leave the piano behind.  I have not personally performed this procedure, so I've been trying to gather more information before tackling it.

    I spent over an hour reading through previous Pianotech discussions that mentioned the procedure, I've read through the procedure in Mario Igrec's book, and I've spoken with a few technicians about it, but I'm still left with a number of questions.  I appreciate any information you can give me.

    1) Are there any good Journal articles on this topic or other written resources?

    2) How many drops am I aiming to apply with the glue?  A few?

    3) Does it matter where I place the glue relative to the tuning pin (north, south, etc?)?  Should I try to place drops all around the circumstance of the pin?

    4) Should I wear a respirator during the process?  How long does the odor remain? Best to do this when it's warm enough to open the windows and blow air past the piano for a few days?

    5) Should I wear tight-fitting gloves during the process?  If yes, what kind?  Nitrile? Latex?

    6) The main issues with the piano are in the bass section and through the midrange.  Should I treat only those sections?  Or do the whole piano at once?

    7) Better to remove action and put paper down on the keybed to catch drips?  Or slide paper on top of the action?

    8) How long should I wait for the glue to dry before trying a tuning?  A week?

    I apologize for the endless questions.  I really want more information before jumping into this procedure.

    Thank you,

    -------------------------------------------
    Zane Omohundro, RPT
    Columbia MO
    www.zanepiano.com
    zanepiano@gmail.com
    -------------------------------------------


  • 2.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-21-2014 13:19
    Hi Zane,

    I don't usually do alot of this kind of triage, so when I needed to do it last month, all of your questions came front and center for me as well.  Here is my experience...and completely successful experience it was:


    2) How many drops am I aiming to apply with the glue?  A few?

    I wondered this too. I used a hypodermic needle at the front (towards the agraffe) of the pin. The amount I used depended on how bad the pin was. The ok but tired pins got a small squirt, enough to see the front bushing got wet, the really bad ones got that same treatment first, but as it didn't seem to really do anything, I gave them enough to feel the wood was getting well being well wetted.

    The entire 88 note compass took just over 1 small CA bottles worth of product. Ultra thin. Fresh. Kept in the refrigerator.


    3) Does it matter where I place the glue relative to the tuning pin (north, south, etc?)?  Should I try to place drops all around the circumstance of the pin?

    I didn't do the circumference, just the forward portion

    4) Should I wear a respirator during the process?

    Absolutely! I used an powered respirator, opened the widows, the client had taped the room off from the rest of the house, and I had a small fan blowing the fumes away from my face. The powered respirator has a tyvek hood. As I find the fumes irritate the eyes as well as the lungs, for me, this is important. But if you do not have a full face mask respirator, keep that small fan trained on your face throughout.

    Keep pets away, as the fumes sink to the floor.

    >How long does the odor remain?

    It dissipated within a 1/2 hr, probably less

    >Best to do this when it's warm enough to open the windows and blow air past the piano for a few days?

    Don't think this is important. Just ventialte the space while you are actively working with the CA

    5) Should I wear tight-fitting gloves during the process?  If yes, what kind?  Nitrile? Latex?

    Absolutely. I used disposable latex. Bring 4 or 5 pair, as if you get any product on your, the gloves are history. Messed up gloves often make more mess than anything else in the heat of battle.

    6) The main issues with the piano are in the bass section and through the midrange.  Should I treat only those sections?  Or do the whole piano at once?

    Do the parts that need it. I did the high treble when it really wasn't bad, and it ended up a bit too tight.

    7) Better to remove action and put paper down on the keybed to catch drips? 

    Yes...remove action and paper the key bed. Random squirts happen, especially if you fill a hypo like I did.
     
    8) How long should I wait for the glue to dry before trying a tuning?  A week?

    I came back a week later as a dampp chaser followup tuning anyway. The difference between the 1/2hr to 1 hr after I applied the CA and 1 week when I returned was significant. I don't know what it would have been like a day or 2 later rather than a week later.

    The only thing I want to improve on in my application procedure is how to fill the hypodermic without making a mess. I really liked the control the hypo gave me, after it was filled. The needle is not long enough to go to the bottom of the CA jar for really easy hypo loading. I have tried isolated CA  applications with the CA bottle and a tiny hose, but I did not like the control or rather lack of control. 

    Jim Ialeggio





  • 3.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-21-2014 13:29
    Hi, Zane

    I'll give you  my take on this, knowing that not everyone agrees with me. But this approach has worked very well for me over the years.

    With CA for loose tuning pins, less is better. The less you use to get the piano tunable, the fewer drawbacks there are. You will be exposed to the fumes less. You will not have as much worry over extra CA dripping where it shouldn't be. You will need less ventilation (though having some is a good idea.) And you will have less of the pinblock filled with hard CA when it doesn't need to be, so the original texture of the pinblock will be present in more of the piano than if you treated the whole thing. And, of course, you will need to buy less CA glue. Plus, it takes less time to treat only the bad tuning pins.

    What I do: I use a small Loctite water-thin CA bottle which has a very thin applicator top. I start tuning the piano. When I come to a tuning pin which feels too loose, I drip a few drops on the tuning pin right where it enters the pinblock, or disappears into the wooden plate bushing. You do not need to pick a particular angle, because the glue will spread like mad, all around the tuning pin. You shouldn't use so much that it would flood the top of the plate, or drip through and drop on the action.

    I continue tuning for four or five minutes, then try the bad pin again. It often will be tunable, marginally, by then. If it isn't, I go on tuning, then return to it again. It's usually okay. It might give a little crack as it breaks loose. If it is still too loose, I add another few drops. This would be about a half hour after the first treatment, so that the first treatment has set up and sealed some of the cracks and delaminations. Therefore the second treatment will stay closer to the tuning pin. After another small wait, I have found I can tune the note all right. I still treat it in a somewhat gingerly manner, and remove the tuning hammer very gently, kind of sneaking it off the pin.

    When I come back to such a piano any time between six months and several years later (customers vary), sometimes everything is fine, and sometimes a few tuning pins (sometimes previously untreated ones) need a few drops. I can tell which pins I treated because the plate bushings are dark and they give a little break-loose cracking sound when I first tune them (but not afterwards.)

    The sweet thing about this approach is that the tiny CA glue bottle can just live in one's kit (I keep all glue, alcohol, etc together. in a ziploc bag), and the treatment hardly adds any time at all to the tuning. If used in such minimal amounts, CA does not force me to use gloves, heavy ventilation, etc., and I know that the fumes will not bother my customers.

    I don't know why other people like to make a big production of CA treatment, flooding the piano with ounces of the stuff, sometimes seizing the tuning pin coils, exposing themselves to toxic fumes, etc. I think perhaps it's because they were previously used to flooding a pinblock with glycerin and alcohol, then waiting a week. Maybe doing a LOT, even on tuning pins which are still perfectly tunable, feels thorough. But I think it's a bad idea, and totally unnecessary. Perhaps people feel they are preventing those tunable pins from getting loose later -- but when treating them later with a few drops is so easy and non-time-consuming, prevention is not really necessary.

    I hope this is helpful ... you know, you could try using just a dab like I described above, and if it doesn't work to your satisfaction, you can always come back and use more. But my experience has been that very little works fine, and if the piano needs any more on the next visit, it's only on a few tuning pins. I can't remember a piano which needed any treatment on the third visit.

    Regards,
    Susan Kline



    -------------------------------------------
    Susan Kline
    Philomath, Oregon



  • 4.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-21-2014 13:44
    See answers interspaced on origional query.

    -------------------------------------------
    John M. Ross
    Ross Piano Service
    Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
    jrpiano@bellaliant.net


    -------------------------------------------








  • 5.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-21-2014 14:09
    Don't misunderstand.
    When I said pool, I meant till you get a feel for how much is needed, that is when it stops soaking in.
    Once it has soaked in, you can try and add more.
    In pins with bushings, it doesn't seem to get down to the block, I have heard of some drilling a hole in the bushing and using a hypodermic needle getting it right down.

    -------------------------------------------
    John M. Ross
    Ross Piano Service
    Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
    jrpiano@bellaliant.net


    -------------------------------------------








  • 6.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-21-2014 13:55
    Zane,

    Endless questions ...exactly!

    Use CA thin. Have a fan blow away the fumes from you.

    Allow for no other living creatures to be around.

    Apply liberally to each tuning pin area respective of north, south, east, west, that means where you can actually have access to apply the CA thin, and watch its absorption. A second pass can be a worthy thing to do.

    Do a preliminary tuning while there.

    Have a follow up visit to ascertain how well it took hold. What else is there?

    Every piano treatment behaves differently in some degree, more or less.

    Keith McGavern, RPT
    Shawnee, Oklahoma, USA
    kam544@allegiance.tv



  • 7.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-21-2014 15:15

    I do like Susan, marking the CA'd pins with chalk or sharpie as I go, then go back to check to see if they hold or need a few more drops. For this I use small tubes with fine nosed caps from Home Depot. Unlike years ago, these retail hardware glues are fresh and work well.
    -------------------------------------------
    Ed Sutton
    Editor
    Piano Technicians Journal
    ed440@me.com
    704-536-7926

    -------------------------------------------





  • 8.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-22-2014 01:50
    Hi, Ed

    I'm glad SOMEONE does it the same way I do.

    Apparently the desire to treat every single tuning pin in the piano runs very deep, but it seems to me illogical and counterproductive.

    Maybe people used bad brands of CA which didn't work very well? Or are they just so afraid of call backs they will do anything to avoid them? Has anyone tried using only a little bit of CA and ever HAD a call back? Or are they just afraid they might get one? I've used CA for over 20 years, in minimal amounts and only on very loose pins, and have had ZERO call backs.

    I like the Loctite small bottles (water-thin) which hold only an eighth of a fluid ounce. "Super Glue long neck bottle for hard to reach places."
    One will last me for months, and quietly lives in the kit. I keep a hat pin to push through the neck if it gets clogged. I carry a new bottle still on its card for when the old one starts to slow down and get viscous. I use it for any very loose tuning pins I find (often a piano has only six or eight bad pins), and I also use it with Elmer's for the glue trick, for various tasks, as needed. The Loctite small bottle and the smallest size of Elmer's just hang out in a ziploc bag, taking hardly any room, and they are there whenever I need them.

    A lot of pianos with bad pinblocks only have loose pins in a few places. One can treat them with small amounts of CA during the tuning, and it only takes a few minutes. The results have been good, with such minimal effort and volume of glue. It is so easy and takes so little time I don't even need to charge for it. For a really bad pinblock, like one which has a crack running through one row of pins in almost all of the bass, I treat the bad ones and any others in the region which are fairly loose. I think that the CA wicks into the failing parts of the block, and treating lots of pins in a region where many are bad will help glue everything back together. Other pianos may have only three or four bad pins in the extreme bass. I don't worry about where the glue goes, since I feel that if the pin is loose enough not to hold pitch it obviously has room for the CA to creep around it. CA will run down narrow cracks like gangbusters. It likes narrow cracks so well that some woodworkers will actually clamp a joint first (probably not super-tightly) and add the CA afterwards. I find that it will even wick into upright pinblocks without tilting them, though I hold a towel under the tuning pin so the CA won't run down the plate, and I squeeze the glue in at 12 o'clock above the tuning pin, where it enters the plate. Grands are easy. I've never seen any come all the way through, because it loves wandering inside the pinblock so much.

    I compare this to fouling the entire block with CA, fumigating the customer's house, having had to buy industrial amounts and delivery systems, and having had to make two appointments, one to treat with lots of ventilation and protective gear, one to tune later. And there's the risk of seizing coils or dripping into the action. I just keep asking myself WHY would anyone want to do it this way?? What's wrong with treating only the bad pins?

    Just  my very humble opinion, as always.

    -------------------------------------------
    Susan Kline
    Philomath, Oregon



  • 9.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-22-2014 21:19
    I'm with you Susan. I use it quite often just to touch up a few pins. I think that's the beauty of it. Very easy, quick and effective. I also use it on uprights as you described. 

    -------------------------------------------
    Scott Kerns
    "That Tuning Guy"
    Lincoln, NE
    www.thattuningguy.com
    -------------------------------------------








  • 10.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 01-25-2014 23:32

    Hi Susan and Ed,

    Your points about technique are well taken, but I would like to hear more about repeated application of CA glue in the case that initial application(s) fail to provide sufficient torque.  "Pianos Inside Out" suggests that because CA glue will seal the wood, we might have only one opportunity to effectively treat the pin block.  Your results and those of others appear to suggest otherwise.  Any thoughts?

    Regards,
    Ben

    -------------------------------------------
    Benjamin Rocke
    Piano Technician
    Manchester CT
    860-533-0311
    -------------------------------------------








  • 11.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-26-2014 01:09
    Hi, Benjamin

    That's an interesting question, and I have thought about where the glue actually goes, and what it actually does to the pinblock quite a lot.

    I don't think that we'll have real answers to any of these thought-questions till someone who does a lot of pinblock replacements sets up trials where a variety of techniques are tried on old pinblocks, them cuts them apart to see what is found inside for various glue volumes, techniques of application (top or bottom?),  repetitions (how many treatments?), etc.

    Thinking about what you are asking, it seems to me that the tuning pin's hole itself is where the trouble resides. So, if torque has not been achieved from the first treatment, it's probably because too little glue remained at the tuning pin to reline and reinforce the hole.

    If one added a small amount of glue, and it stayed right at the pin but sealed the TOP layer or the plate bushing all the way around, so that further glue couldn't reach deeper into the hole, that might be a problem -- but, given the way CA loves the tiniest cracks, I don't see how a tuning pin could be so loose that it couldn't hold pitch, yet so tight that the glue couldn't creep around it.

    So, if the first small treatment seeped away too far so that the pin is still loose, the more sealing it does deeper in the pinblock, the better. That way the second treatment can't rush away, and more of it has to stay around the tuning pin. Well, this is the theory I thought up to account for my experience that the second treatment (which can be only a half hour after the first one because small amounts of CA set up very quickly) often works better than the first one did. If, on the other hand, one flips over the piano and fills the holes with puddles of CA,  I doubt it would set up quickly at all, because the middle of the puddles will not be in contact with the humidity needed to break down the stuff keeping it liquid in the bottle. So it might be some time before it wouldn't run out and make a mess when the piano was turned back over. I don't plan to figure out how long excessive CA will take to set up all the way through when it's in a puddle.

    I've also noted that CA works quite well even on dirty old pinblocks which had long ago been treated with glycerine pinblock restorer. I really wondered if that would be true, but it still seems to work. I think that's because the pinblock restorer works by attracting water (hygroscopic) and keeping the pinblock semi-wet, which plumps up the shrunken wood fibers. And the CA likes to set up when exposed to something wet.  Weird stuff, it's the only glue I know of which works better when one glues moist things together.

    But, definitive knowledge will have to wait for people to make direct observations of old pinblocks after they've been treated. So far, no one has jumped forward. I don't replace pinblocks ... I just keep them working as well as I can, or send the needed replacement job to someone who does a lot of them. I hope some other curious person will eventually do the research, saw some old blocks apart, and find out what the CA really did.

    Susan Kline
    Philomath, Oregon



  • 12.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 01-27-2014 09:33
    Although I wouldn't paint the ca customer with that broad of a brush, I do think it is essential that they be educated as to what a pinblock is and how it works... Or doesn't. They may not have the money to do anything with or about it, but unless you explain the peril of the pinblock, you are setting yourself up to be deemed a poor tuner. I know... I get the follow up calls for the tuners before me who insist on "patching" without explaining the ramifications or longevity of the "parch" I use chuck Behms piano promos, which makes the explanation quick, easy and memorable. http://www.esteypiano.com/wp-content/uploads/Grand-Piano-pinblock-replacement.pdf ------------------------------------------- David Estey, RPT www.EsteyPiano.com Piano Tuners Sales Tips for the week. FREE! Sign up here: http://coolstuffformusicians.com/fine-tuning-your-salesmanship Creating Harmony in a World filled with Discord. 1-800-ON A PIANO (662-7426) dave@esteypiano.com -------------------------------------------


  • 13.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-27-2014 12:06
    Hi, David

    Certainly caveats are in order, and the condition of the rest of the instrument has to be considered.

    I explain that a failing pinblock used to be a death sentence for all but the best quality pianos, especially when other things were wrong with them, but that the CA glue often can keep them going for a long, long time. I put it in a positive way: "Let's see how this works for you ... often this treatment can keep the piano tunable for a surprising length of time."

    If the piano seems on the verge of a "one-hoss-shay" collapse, I advise them not to put more than a little money into it, and consider replacing it instead. Luckily the CA takes so little time and money that it makes financial sense to keep dubious pianos going, buying the owners some time to consider their options.

    I always explain to people when I've treated loose tuning pins, and I tell them that if anything slips, they should get back to me immediately, and I can drop in and probably make it right. But the CA really does seem to do a good job, because I just don't get those call backs. I have sometimes found that a note or two in the deep bass has slipped in between tunings, apparently unnoticed by the owner, but usually everything is still okay when I see these pianos again.

    -------------------------------------------
    Susan Kline
    Philomath, Oregon



  • 14.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 01-27-2014 13:49
    Susan,

    So "one-hoss-shay" would be my expression for the day. I really appreciate how generously you share your considerable knowledge about pianos with this community. Please do the same for my understanding of language.

    Thanks,

    -------------------------------------------
    Alan Eder, RPT
    Herb Alpert School of Music
    California Institute of the Arts
    Valencia, CA
    661.904.6483
    -------------------------------------------








  • 15.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-27-2014 19:01
    You're very welcome, Alan, and thanks for the kind words.

    I suppose junior high school English classes may have moved on from the "one hoss shay", and I'm dating myself mentioning it. But just now I pulled the whole poem off the net (as one certainly couldn't do back when I last read it) and enjoyed all the details I had long forgotten. For instance:

    <<For the wheels were just as strong as the thills,
    And the floor was just as strong as the sills,
    And the panels just as strong as the floor,
    And the whipple-tree neither less nor more,
    And the back crossbar as strong as the fore,
    And spring and axle and hub encore.
    And yet, as a whole, it is past a doubt
    In another hour it will be worn out!>>

    (and I've seen pianos which resemble this remark!)

    http://rpo.library.utoronto.ca/poems/deacons-masterpiece-or-wonderful-one-hoss-shay-logical-story

    I wonder if I still dare sometimes say, "for there's no joy in Mudville -- great Casey has struck out" anymore?
    -------------------------------------------
    Susan Kline
    Philomath, Oregon



  • 16.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 01-27-2014 22:00
    Speaking of caveats, please people... Charge accordingly. You are saving the customer 5-6,000 that it would cost to rebuild. Ok... A couple of pins on a grand while tuning... Understandable to do a freebie. But when flipping the piano, get a good buck. When treating the entire block, get a good buck. If you aren't sure it will work, tell them half your fee will go toward the rebuild if it doesn't work. Is it relatively mindless work in comparison to other tasks we do? Yes. Is it intensely time consuming? No. But it has great value. Don't short sell it. ------------------------------------------- David Estey, RPT www.EsteyPiano.com Piano Tuners Sales Tips for the week. FREE! Sign up here: http://coolstuffformusicians.com/fine-tuning-your-salesmanship Creating Harmony in a World filled with Discord. 1-800-ON A PIANO (662-7426) dave@esteypiano.com -------------------------------------------


  • 17.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-28-2014 00:26
    Oh, I agree ... you have to charge for what you do, if it is a big deal.

    I think you should look VERY carefully at whether something like flipping a grand and pouring in ounces of CA is necessary, but if you truly feel it is, of course you need to charge for the time and effort.

    I would still make a plea for trying the minimalist approach first, which takes so little time, effort, and money ... and then, if it fails, you can always go with the elaborate and expensive Plan B. You could always explain to a customer up front that you want to try the easy inexpensive way first, but it might fail, and if so, ... then you'd describe the big deal procedure. That way, if the easy approach fails, they are ready for the idea of paying more, and if just a few drops on only the bad pins works, they would be delighted to dodge the bullet.

    -------------------------------------------
    Susan Kline
    Philomath, Oregon



  • 18.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 01-28-2014 22:30
    Susan asked for someone to saw apart a pinblock.  Your wish is my command.  Photos attached.  

    Regarding Susan's comments, below:

    The only complete failure of CA treatment I've experience was on a newish Young Chang with very tight tuning pin bushings, but no pinblock torque.  The CA could not penetrate the bushing to get where it was needed.  I have seen other pianos where somebody drilled a tiny hole in the bushing to get the CA in, but I've never been able to do that without breaking drill bits.  Old pianos with loose bushings often have enough room to get a fine, flexible glue bottle tip extension past the bushing, right to the pinblock.  If the first application isn't sufficient, the second often is.  The exception being the tight, new bushing example.

    Application of CA to a pinblock that has been treated in the past with old-school pin tighteners does work, almost too well.  On several occasions, I found what had been a very loose, spongy pin became so tight I was afraid I would shear off the pin before breaking the CA glue bond.  I tend to apply the CA very lightly on these now.  My theory is that the tuning pins are rusty and rough from the old glycerine treatment, so the CA has more to grab.  Very good results for me.

    My photos, attached, show an old upright pinblock which was part of the Lehigh Valley PTG Chapter "Gross Anatomy" technical, in which we did several experiments on a donor piano, then completely disassembled it to see what goes on "behind the scenes".  I applied CA to several tuning pins using my normal procedure:  insert a small, flexible glue bottle tip at or in the tuning pin bushing, and slowly allow the CA to wick in until the bushing appears saturated.  I don't tip uprights, and I've NEVER flipped a grand.  My opinion on CA application is that it does the most good at the top of the tuning pin hole.  Pins that are tighter at the bottom of the hole than the top seem like candidates for jumpiness.  

    The photo looking at the face of the pinblock shows several holes with no CA in the middle, and two partial holes on the right edge that were treated.  The CA glued the bushings to the block, and pulled off some paint or dirt from the back of the plate.  This shows that the CA was able to get to the pinblock and cover a good portion of the surface.  Any gaps or cracks around the pins would easily be filled.  This was with the piano standing normally, wicking the CA at the pin/bushing interface slowly, until the bushing appeared to be saturated and threatening to drip.  

    The side views appear to show some slightly darkened wood at the edge of the pin holes, which may be CA or just oxidation of the old wood.  It is hard to say.  The non-treated holes have similar discoloration, but not as much.  The thread impressions are slightly more distinct in the treated holes, at least in the first two layers, about one-half inch in this block.  I'm describing very slight differences, visually.  It isn't obvious how far the CA penetrated in this sample.  

    I'd really like someone to tell me where I can get super thin CA in Black, or perhaps with a UV florescent dye.

    What I can say with certainty is that the three pins treated with CA had higher torque and better "feel" that the others, and, for older pianos with loose bushings, the CA easily reaches the pinblock in sufficient quantity to reach any gaps, no tipping required.

    -------------------------------------------
    Greg Graham, RPT
    Brodheadsville, PA
    -------------------------------------------

    Susan Kline wrote:  

    If one added a small amount of glue, and it stayed right at the pin but sealed the TOP layer or the plate bushing all the way around, so that further glue couldn't reach deeper into the hole, that might be a problem -- but, given the way CA loves the tiniest cracks, I don't see how a tuning pin could be so loose that it couldn't hold pitch, yet so tight that the glue couldn't creep around it....

    I've also noted that CA works quite well even on dirty old pinblocks which had long ago been treated with glycerine pinblock restorer. I really wondered if that would be true, but it still seems to work. ...

    But, definitive knowledge will have to wait for people to make direct observations of old pinblocks after they've been treated. ... I hope some other curious person will eventually do the research, saw some old blocks apart, and find out what the CA really did.



  • 19.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-28-2014 22:37
    Use lengths of piano wire to drill the holes in the bushings, they won't break.
    Cut the end at a 45 degree angle.
    The ends from replacing a set of bass strings work well.

    -------------------------------------------
    John M. Ross
    Ross Piano Service
    Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
    jrpiano@bellaliant.net


    -------------------------------------------








  • 20.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Member
    Posted 01-21-2014 17:14
    I have done a ton of pinblocks both upright and grand. I get fresh thin Ca glue at a hobby shop prior to the job. I like to do the job on Friday and let it cure over the weekend returning on Monday. Definitely pull the action or you will be sorry.... Take no chances, ventilate the room and use a fan at one end of the tuning pin area to blow fumes away. Definitely wear gloves, respirator and nitrile gloves since the fumes will pool and get strong- they attack the mucous membranes. Make sure pets kids etc are not around and I also tell customers they may want to leave for a few hours.
    I apply it to all the pins around the tuning pin bushing area where there is a gap between the thread and wall. I purchase epoxy sponges at West Marine  a boating supply store that sells online as retail. A glass shot glass is a good way to pour out the glue and then draw it up into the syringe. Only pour a little out at a time
    You can make multiple passes. You may discover that when you push the glue at one pin it comes up elsewhere. That is a sign there is lateral cracking in the block but not to worry- the glue will fix the cracks.u first turn a pin after the CA cures you will get a snap. All the CA glue is doing is filling the gap that has opened at the tp wall.
     I purchased an industrial dispenser that allows me to dispense preloaded cartridges of CA and even lubricants. I need to use it more because it can deliver precise amounts of product quickly and safely . Is the process effective ? Absolutely. I have saved many pianos with CA. I take pre-and post torque readings and they show doubling and tripling of torque
    -------------------------------------------
    James Kelly
    Pawleys Island SC
    843-325-4357
    -------------------------------------------








  • 21.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-21-2014 17:26
    Would you elaborate on industrial dispenser and preloaded cartridges, as I am unfamiliar with the system.
    Thank you

    -------------------------------------------
    John M. Ross
    Ross Piano Service
    Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
    jrpiano@bellaliant.net


    -------------------------------------------








  • 22.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Member
    Posted 01-21-2014 20:33
    I am not sure if I should discuss specific brands of equipment on the web site so I would be happy to correspond privately with you or anyone. There are dispensers used in industry to disperse products such as glues, lubricants, dyes etc in pre determined doses or free flowing. You can fill the cartridges on your own or order them filled . My intention is to begin using the system more and more because CA glues can be rather nasty stuff. The system I bought has great value in the shop and in the field and has all type of tips and hoses to reach just about anyplace in a piano action. It is also portable and does not make a lot of noise. It is possible as I said to set dosage rates so that you do not overpour. One problem when applying CA on pianos is preventing getting the liquid all over the plate. If too much flows out it gets on the
    plate guilding and blushes or blooms. Too much glue can also get on the coils and beckets. Ask me how I know

    -------------------------------------------
    James Kelly
    Pawleys Island SC
    843-325-4357
    -------------------------------------------








  • 23.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-21-2014 20:36
    I'm with Keith on this one. It's really not complicated. I use small tubes that I get from WalMart that way I'm always using fresh stuff and if a tube I used won't open again no biggie. All the precautions people have mentioned are fine although I've never done any of them and had no problems and I've done so many pianos or partial pianos now I've lost track of how many I've done. (By the way - no failures yet.) The glue doesn't get past the bushing and that's where it does it's work. Personally I would recommend not using super thin glue because then maybe it would get past the bushing and you don't want that. Just regular thin does the trick. The only problem I've encountered is that once in a while a pin will need to be cracked loose. I just back it off and then it tunes up fine. 

    Good Luck!

    -------------------------------------------
    Scott Kerns
    "That Tuning Guy"
    Lincoln, NE
    www.thattuningguy.com
    -------------------------------------------








  • 24.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-21-2014 21:38


    Keith McGavern, RPT
    Shawnee, Oklahoma, USA
    kam544@allegiance.tv
    -------------------------------------------








  • 25.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 01-21-2014 23:07
    Hi, Scott:
    Why don't you want the glue to go past the bushing? I thought that's what you want to do. Years ago, I tried Home Depot CA glue, but it wasn't thin enough and didn't do anything. I've since gone to Rockler's Woodworking Store and purchase their thin CA glue. It works, but I still don't get reliable results every time though. Sometimes it just doesn't work much at all. I try to get as much past the bushings as possible because I believe it needs to get into the block itself. Most of the time, the CA treatment works, but is bewildering when it just doesn't hold.
    Paul McCloud
    San Diego




  • 26.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 01-22-2014 10:10
    On one occasion I had an untunable British Grand piano.  I turned the piano upside down and applied the CA in the holes in the pinblock where the tuning pins protruded.  Each hole is like a little reservoir so it is possible to see how much CA is going in.  The piano was quite tunable after that.  Some of the pins were a s little snappy to start with but is was not a piano that was worthy of a new pin block.  The problem with applying it from the top, especially with pin bushings, is that not much of the CA actually goes into the hole but rather just floods the pin block.  On an upright piano, I will actually take out the loose pin, swab the hole with CA and replace the pin.   Works every time.

    -------------------------------------------
    Christopher Gregg
    Calgary AB
    403-226-1019
    -------------------------------------------








  • 27.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-22-2014 12:52
    Christopher,

    Glad to hear you had success with the upside down CA treatment. I did not fair so well believing that was the perfect answer. It wasn't until I CA'd from the top that stability was actually improved.

    Here is the post & video of that experience.
    CA treatment experience

    Keith McGavern, RPT
    Shawnee, Oklahoma, USA
    kam544@allegiance.tv



  • 28.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 01-22-2014 14:04

    I haven't watch Keith's video, so this may be covered there, but I believe there was a discussion that took place a while back, wherein this idea of 'bottom-up' gluing was questioned for its tendency to elevate the torque at the bottom of the pin, thus introducing a higher degree of torsion over the length of the pin, making it harder to actually control.

    Earlier, Scott Kerns said:
    "The glue doesn't get past the bushing and that's where it does it's work."

    I have some doubts about this.  One would have to assume that, if the pin got tight enough in the plate bushing, said bushing would begin to turn in the plate.  I'm sorry I'm not remembering right now, but someone (a younger squirt I think) went through a process of drilling a small hole in each of the plate bushings in order to allow the glue to reach the block. That helps to place the glue, though not in determining how much is being applied, unless you've worked that out in your delivery system.


    -------------------------------------------
    David Skolnik
    Hastings-on-Hudson NY
    914-231-7565
    -------------------------------------------








  • 29.  RE: CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-21-2014 17:03
    On 1/21/2014 11:50 AM, Zane Omohundro via Piano Technicians Guild wrote:
    >
    > I spent over an hour reading through previous Pianotech discussions
    > that mentioned the procedure,

    You have most of what you need then, and some contradictory stuff. The
    very first thing you do is pull that action and verify that the block
    isn't delaminating and falling apart. CA will only work if it has some
    physical structure as a matrix to work with.


    > 2) How many drops am I aiming to apply with the glue? A few?

    Some. Apply until you can see it backing up. That'll indicate you have
    saturated the wood contacting the pin, which is what you want.


    > 3) Does it matter where I place the glue relative to the tuning pin
    > (north, south, etc?)? Should I try to place drops all around the
    > circumstance of the pin?

    I put it where the gap is, at the front of the pin so it will be sure to
    go in around the pin. It will self distribute from there. The front of
    the pin, incidentally, is toward the front of the piano where the
    keyboard is.


    > 4) Should I wear a respirator during the process?

    You should.


    >How long does the
    > odor remain?

    Until it's gone, ascertainable by pulling the respirator down a bit and
    sniffing.

    Best to do this when it's warm enough to open the
    > windows and blow air past the piano for a few days?

    Not necessary. It will be over in a half hour.


    > 5) Should I wear tight-fitting gloves during the process?

    Your call, depending how you feel about getting CA on your hands.


    >If yes, what kind? Nitrile? Latex?

    Either. Even those "sandwich bag" plastic food handlers' gloves will
    work, though they're pretty clumsy.


    > 6) The main issues with the piano are in the bass section and through
    > the midrange. Should I treat only those sections? Or do the whole
    > piano at once?

    I do it all. Shooting for the minimal fix has too much callback
    potential, and I don't carry CA as part of my kit.


    > 7) Better to remove action and put paper down on the keybed to catch
    > drips? Or slide paper on top of the action?

    Absolutely - remove the action. Murphy was a blithering optimist.


    > 8) How long should I wait for the glue to dry before trying a tuning?

    I do the worst part first. By the time I've finished the rest of the
    piano, the first part will hold tension. Even if I go over the worst
    part a second time, I might, at most, have to kill ten minutes or so for
    it to firm up enough to tune.

    Caveat: I've CA'd maybe four pianos, so this isn't from experience with
    thousands

    Ron N




  • 30.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-22-2014 22:46
    I have found the thinnest glue locally is the thin CA glue with the pink top from Hobby Lobby. Just squirt it at the base of the pin with the long pointed applicator on the bottle. It has always worked except for my last grand. I applied almost one half bottle on 3 pins and one of the three never tightened up. I could find no leaks nor drips. Always put paper on action in case of drips.

    -------------------------------------------
    Thomas Black
    Decatur AL
    256-350-9315
    -------------------------------------------





  • 31.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 01-23-2014 08:51
    Hi All,
    I think the tendency to treat all pins comes from days of using Garfield's pinblock restorer.  For the occasional loose pin Bill Spurlock used to recommend removing the pin, dripping some CA glue into the hole, followed by a quick swab with a wetted hammer shank.  Replace the pin and voila! Torque!  I've always tipped uprights, but after your recommendations, will try to treat them without tipping now.  Thanks!  Wrestling the tipper into the house taking care not to scratch floors, etc. takes quite a bit of time and energy.
    I don't understand how just treating the plate bushing would work as they can easily move in the plate, unless they superglue to the plate or pinblock.
    I wonder why you wouldn't remove a grand action to eliminate the possibility of CA dripping through to anything on the keyframe.
    It could save  you time and money...
    There seems to be a differing opinions (surprise, surprise) about where around the pin to apply the CA.  Top?  Bottom?  
    Would anyone like to give their opinions about the best location?

    Warm winter regards from Chicago,

    Laura

    -------------------------------------------
    Laura Olsen, RPT
    Barrington, IL
    -------------------------------------------








  • 32.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-23-2014 10:24
    Hi Laura,

    I have good luck with uprights just like Susan said too. 12:00 position, just a little at a time and be ready to catch some, although I don't see that it hurts anything if it drips a little. It would have to drip  quite a bit to get to the damper although it could happen... 

    It makes sense to remove the action on a grand so I certainly wouldn't discourage someone from doing that. I check the pianos I've done and have never seen any glue coming through. If I'm correct and the glue doesn't get past the bushing then it's not an issue, but again, a prudent precaution. As I was thinking about it - just for discussion ; ) If some glue did get through it would either have to drip in just the right spot or a lot would have to drip to do any permanent harm. 

    I will say, it is a curiosity why it works when it's not getting past the bushing. All I know right now is that for me it works. 

    -------------------------------------------
    Scott Kerns
    "That Tuning Guy"
    Lincoln, NE
    www.thattuningguy.com
    -------------------------------------------








  • 33.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 01-24-2014 12:48
    I always remove grand actions before applying CA glue to tuning pins. I have had glue leak out the bottom of the pinblock before, although not often. I use the opportunity to remove the action to do other things, too. A piano that needs the CA treatment often needs other service. I always vacuum out the tuning pin field before treatment and I mention to the customer that it would be a good opportunity to clean the soundboard and action cavity and blow the dirt out of the action. While the action is out of the piano, it is easy to examine it for needed service and to point out to the customer the need for hammer filing and aligning, screw tightening, etc., if necessary. 

    A part of my usual equipment for such a job is the portable table I bought from Norman Cantrell a long time ago. I wheel it up to the piano, slide out the action, and wheel the action outside for cleaning. If the weather is nice, that is where I do hammer filing, etc., if needed.

    And good-bye Ben. Thanks for all your help and inspiration for so many years.

    Bob Anderson

    -------------------------------------------
    Robert Anderson
    Tucson AZ
    520-326-4048
    -------------------------------------------








  • 34.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-23-2014 20:26
    Hi, Laura

    The first time I used CA on a very bad and ancient East German upright, I did tilt it. I also removed the coils on the worst tuning pins. I removed the pins completely and swabbed the holes on some, and turned them halfway out and wet the threaded area of the pins with CA on the rest. And some which weren't as bad I just dripped a little around the tuning pin with the note still at pitch.

    Putting it all back together, I found that the pins which I had totally removed, getting the holes well wet with a pipe cleaner, were noisy and jumpy. The ones which had come halfway out weren't as bad. The pins which I had just dripped some into were pretty good.

    This was a piano with a really terminal pinblock. Returning a few weeks later, I found about ten notes which still hadn't held. I didn't feel like tilting the piano, so I just tried putting the glue on at the top of the pin next to the bushing, wedging a shop towel under the pin to catch the drips.

    Results were fine. I tuned the piano later without needing to add any more. I decided tilting and removing tuning pins was a big bother for nothing. Unless I truly can't avoid it, I think my piano-tilting days are pretty well over. Let someone young and fit work on casters, pedal boards, etc.

    If I had a really stubborn tuning pin which I couldn't stabilize at pitch with two treatments, I would remove it, and swab the hole with either CA or 5 minute epoxy. Luckily I haven't had to.

    Bill Spurlock is one sharp cookie. I've never had trouble with the CA setting up, but it does need exposure to humidity to break down the stuff which keeps it liquid in the bottle, and in a very dry climate the wet hammer shank would certainly do the trick. But blowing gently into the hole  would probably be nearly as good.

    -------------------------------------------
    Susan Kline
    Philomath, Oregon



  • 35.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 01-24-2014 08:40
    Hi Laura
    Hope all is well.

    First, as far as Im concerned, Ed Dryberg RPT (1-800-GLUE ALL) is the reference point for pianos and CA glue. If you call him, he will get you his booklet on how to use the glue, as he also sells it along with an assortment of tips (literal) for the bottles for various applications.

    I have had great success flipping grands and applying from the bottom holes in the block. The glue goes where it is needed, rather than trying to make its way through the bushing from the top and puddling on the top of the block itself. I have tested this treatment from the bottom with great success on some awfully beat up blocks, and always explain to the customer that this is a "hail Mary" pass to attempt to bypass replacing the block, and offer 1/2 the price of the treatment toward proper rebuilding should the CA not work. When it does, (as it does most of the time) Im a hero, even if I charge a hefty price for the application in that form. (I like being a hero) Also, if you REALLY flood the block from the bottom, it CAN get through the block and onto whatever surface is exposed underneath. I didnt think this was possible with such a direct application, but the last piano I tried it on (a shop experiment) proved me wrong. Even if I let the CA set overnight on the overturned grand, I will always hit it with the accelerator (Kick it) before I flip it back over right side up to avoid the uncured (if there is any) glue from dripping back out.

    On a Grand, if you apply to one or 5 pins from the top, a few drips each, there is generally no need to remove the action, but if you are really hitting the entire block, remove the action and cover the keybed. The glue can and does puddle on the top of the block, and can easily seep between the block and plate flange into the action cavity. Thats never a good thing.

    On uprights, I always put them on their back. Ive tried leaving them upright for the process, but that only gets into the bushing (a little bit) and not the block. It may work on some, but I have not had much success with upright uprights.

    I have never used water, only the accelerator.

    I have also found that if I charge enough, I dont mind the hassle of tilting or flipping the piano. If the piano is too big, I hire someone to help me and charge accordingly. Suddenly the pain in the neck job becomes quite pleasurable.

    Everything is simple. Nothing is easy.

    Stay warm!
    Dave



    -------------------------------------------
    David Estey, RPT
    www.EsteyPiano.com
    Piano Tuners Sales Tips for the week. FREE! Sign up here:
    http://coolstuffformusicians.com/fine-tuning-your-salesmanship
    Creating Harmony in a World filled with Discord.
    1-800-ON A PIANO (662-7426)
    dave@esteypiano.com

    -------------------------------------------








  • 36.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-25-2014 08:54
    Susan,

     
    I've been thinking about your question regarding CA application. My paraphrase of what I took to be your position is...why not deal with the issue in as understated fashion as possible...so much so that in some cases one might not even charge for the treatment. Your arguments in terms of technique are strong...but something, for me, just didn't compute, and I had to think about it.

    There is a crucial factor I take into consideration, which you did not mention. That factor has not so much to do with the piano, than it does with the owners. A piano needing CA is, in many if not most cases, a neglected piano, or a piano at or well past the end of its useful life. If I think about what a neglected piano says about the customer whom one is trying to please, I come up with a couple of possible scenarios...none of them include a customer who is educated about  the upkeep of their instrument. As well, very few of the client scenarios I can think, of present a client who is committed to the upkeep of their instrument. That is, few of them include a customer who has chosen to prioritze and  therefore afford the necessary up-keep of their instrument. Put even more bluntly, these scenarios reflect a customer who has chosen not to pay me or another professional for the regular service their piano requires.

    In these situations, providing this service, especially providing it for free sends all the wrong messages, at least in my opinion. It does not educate the client about the needs of their piano, it does not give them a monetary incentive to pay more attention, and it does not at the very least, help them break free of inertia and haul the thing to the dump. Providing the service free does provide the client with an incentive to continue their lack of attention, and does ironically reward the client for not hiring me or another professional to perform routine maintenance. It also does declare that the dearly acquired professional  knowledge and equipment necessary to take care of these instruments, in fact, has no value.

     I know of very few professions, where the level of expertise required to perform basic services  is so high, and the professionals are so determined to devalue the skills and knowledge they spent years to acquire.

     So, as an example, in the recent whole piano job I personally did, the clients were first time clients who had just bought a potentially nice, tired, Steinert grand on Craigslist...for too much money. No professional looked at the piano beofre they paid too much for it. Nice clients, enjoyable to chat with about lots of stuff, well into the middle class. They want to make this piano work for the wife who is learning to play, and the young kids who they hope will learn to play. My decision to treat the whole piano and charge very well for it indeed, came with a good natured but serious education session about what makes a piano fun to play, and keeps it fun. In short, this Steinert will need a full rebuild in the near future, and we talked about this. With these clients, I am in the process of educating, and, yes, training them as to what the piano will require in the way of maintenance, and rebuilding, if they want it to be fun to play, rather than a nasty sounding turn-off. In addition they were involved in the actual CA process in taping off the room temporarily from the rest of the house. The goal...engaging them in learning to take care of their instrument as it requires .

    Could I have treated a couple of pins and left...yes. However, there would have been no education, and no future for a serious client relationship...I would have implicitly agreed in a powerful but unspoken way,  that the piano itself had no potential  and that the client relationship wasn't really worth the effort to develop.

    So the disconnect I had with your technical advice was not technical. So much about pianos is not entirely about the machine, and more about the relationship and emotions that drive people to own these sometime recalcitrant machines.

     Jim Ialeggio        

        

    -------------------------------------------
    Jim Ialeggio
    grandpianosolutions.com
    Shirley, MA
    978 425-9026
    -------------------------------------------






  • 37.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-26-2014 01:11
    I'm not ignoring your post, Jim. It has some deep questions, and I want to explain my attitude clearly.

    "More later", as one says.

    -------------------------------------------
    Susan Kline
    Philomath, Oregon


    -------------------------------------------








  • 38.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-26-2014 13:05
    Jim,

    I'm going to jump in here since, like Susan, I quite often do just a partial treatment, often at no extra cost.

    Your point is a valid one and one that I will consider in the future. I'll admit that I normally take the road of least resistance and in the process not educated the customer or made more money. And let's admit - we enjoy what we do but we need to make a living. I know I've treated a few pins on pianos that had been unstable and, whattaya know, they don't call back because the piano's staying in tune pretty good. So, not good for business. I sometimes justify it by telling myself that I'm doing it for me and not them - it makes my job a whole lot easier no having to deal with loose pins that are easily fixed. And also telling myself that these people wouldn't want to pay for something extra (without checking my assumption). I am, of course, just speaking for myself. I look forward to Susan's thoughts. 

    -------------------------------------------
    Scott Kerns
    "That Tuning Guy"
    Lincoln, NE
    www.thattuningguy.com
    -------------------------------------------








  • 39.  RE:CA Glue Pinblock Treatment Procedure and Questions

    Posted 01-26-2014 13:45
    Hi, Scott

    I think that fixing notes which hadn't held pitch in years for little or no money, producing a tuning which just lasts and lasts, is GOOD for business. They won't call you as often, but anyone who needs to have a piano tuned or fixed will get an earful of praise about you. Pretty soon you might find out  that people are saying, "he's the best in the area, call him" about you. No amount of advertising could produce this result, only selling as many customers as possible a superior result for less than the competition, who perhaps burden their work with unnecessary hindrances, could charge. Innate efficiency of methods -- doing more with less, and in less time, and for less total money while still making a good hourly wage -- turns out to be the best for everyone concerned in the long run. It's not like the world has so few unserviced pianos that we need to make maximum dollars on each one.

    There are pianos out there I don't particularly enjoy tuning and working on, and some, frankly, that I don't want to see again.The better I can get them in a normal tuning time, the less often I'll have to see them. I can offer sage advice about replacing them, but if the owners are hardly using them and unlikely to put any real effort into playing, they are going to ignore me. The best advice, in my opinion, is how to enjoy playing and learning to play piano. And then one can mention kind of on the side what a decent but old and tired instrument might like to have, on their schedule, not mine. Just give them a rough idea what each item might cost, and what they'd get for it, and leave it up to them.

    If your customer has a Chevy budget and just needs basic transportation, do you really do them a favor trying to sell them a Porsche? .

    -------------------------------------------
    Susan Kline
    Philomath, Oregon