When we have a tuner/tech out, I'll ask him to check to see if the TFT rail and PC board is present. The only cable I could see floating loose was a flat gray ribbon cable with a black header. Probably 10 conductor or so. So the PC board may be missing.
We did notice slack up and down from the sustain solenoid plunger, so will definitely look at that. When I checked for voltage at the damper connector pins while playing, I expected to see a DC voltage when the solenoid was called for. I will try again using the peak/hold function of my meter as the voltage may be pulsed to quickly for me to see. I'm assuming the solenoids are DC. AC would make a racket - both mechanically and from an electrical noise perspective. But please correct me if I'm wrong.
On the PS, I actually totally dismantled it. I replaced all the rubber transformer mount bushings as the old ones were shot. These bushings would help keep transformer mechanical hum to a minimum, and the associated vibrations as it is so close to the sound board. I replaced all the caps with new 105c, low ESR parts, and cleaned up a couple of what look like late production mods. I also replaced the 8 amp bridge with a 10 amp bridge as the original had thrown a lot of heat. I also added a heat sink to the bridge, and new fuses. The fan had foam tape around the perimeter, I assume also to dampen vibrations, and that was all dried out and the blades were hitting the case. So new tape installed and all is good. Oh, and I found a relay contact file (for filing the open switched AC relay contact) floating around in the case! Good thing it didn't lodge in the wrong place...
I restore vintage electronics as a hobby so the speakers were right up my alley. Any caps older than 20 years are just replaced - especially in high heat devices. They dry out and can short or open. This was the reason for the hum and why someone added the audio filter box on the PDS-128 audio outputs. For these caps, a simple DVM and cap checker were all I used. I do use a Sencore LC-102 for leakage tests and more serious capacitor/inductor work.
So I will try all you guys have suggested. Very much appreciate the info! And if the test diskette should surface, I'd be much obliged and happy to compensate.
Original Message:
Sent: 01-02-2017 14:01
From: Larry Fisher
Subject: Basic PianoDisc Questions
Hi Mark, in addition to Dave's response I'll add that the cable in the action cavity that is unplugged is most likely for the TFT strip. Exiting from under key 88 (top fat key) is a thin white band of metal ..... this is a data cable. It plugs into a very small circuit board that is usually mounted on the hammer rail. Some techs mounted it on the side of the action cavity. The opposite end of this little circuit board had the larger grey data cable with a silver end. This cable makes it's way towards the back of the action cavity and passes through the slot where the key solenoids are. From there it plugs into the record board previously mentioned. The fact that you see some cables dangling, possibly disconnected may indicate that the "record interface board" may be missing or damaged. It's only about an inch by an inch and a half. When mounted on the side of the action cavity is was prone to breakage when the action was moved in and out of the action cavity.
The earlier PDS units had a separate pedal board located inside the "rail cover" or that long black sheet metal cover that extends from treble to bass under the piano just behind the trap work. On the pedal board were two adjustments for pedal hold force and pedal strike force. Usually if the pedal solenoid isn't doing anything it was because the board was bad and needed to be replaced. Sometimes it was simply because the solenoid was out of adjustment. Grasp the long aluminum hex nut located on the end of the solenoid plunger and work it up and down. If there's any movement upwards, that's probably your problem. Adjust this large nut (and associated jam nut) to eliminate the "lost motion" and you may find your pedal solenoid starts to function again. Ver 4.6 came out after this unit was born. The software adjustments don't have any effect on the pedal solenoid. That is done via the brass trimpots found on the pedal board. I don't remember the adjustment procedure. The voltage at the solenoid plug will be dependent upon whether or not the software is activating the voltage or not at any particular moment.
Keep in mind you have a model 128 and not a 128plus. We commonly called this model the 128 minus.
The "power" button on the record board when in the off position will cause the control box to light up, read the disk, but not activate the keys of the piano. Small little bozos typically push this button just to make parents say affectionate things about them. Sometimes it costs a piano owner a service call to learn this.
AR stopped making the AR570 quite awhile ago. The only failure I've seen in them is a blown speaker. One speaker is typically enough sound to overpower the piano. I usually turn one of them off.
The P/S has fuses inside located in a very difficult place for service. The 1/2 amp fuse was the one to fail. I've replaced it with a 3/4 amp (AGC3/4) fuse and have not been scolded by the factory.
The accompaniment sounds (everything but piano) won't be heard unless you have a speaker turned on, hooked up, volume up and have a five digit disk in the disk drive. Dave touched on this subject. In the software controls of the control box there's a balance control with a P on one end of the bar and an S on the other. Start with it in the middle. The volume of the piano won't track with the volume of the speaker at the low end of things. You may have to have the overall volume of the piano up to at least a number 10 to get any audio out. Some of the software with 5 digits has awfully long stretches of music that doesn't have any audio/orchestra, just piano.
Find the default command in the menu and select it. This will put everything at factory default including putting the balance at the middle.
Test disk? Uh ....... oh that one. If I look long enough I might find it ....... but currently I don't have the incentive. I have a hunch it's landfill fodder.
You tested all the capacitors? How? You must have some awfully good test equipment. I'm impressed.
Lar
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Larry Fisher
Owner, Chief Grunt, Head Hosehead
Vancouver WA
360-256-2999
Original Message:
Sent: 01-02-2017 09:20
From: Dave Foster
Subject: Basic PianoDisc Questions
Hello Mark,
What you have there is what we called the Blue Board system. All the circuit boards are blue, and that system was updated in 1997 to the Silent Drive (Green Board) system. And as you already know, it's fairly old and it's susceptible to issues.
The Orchestra option enables you to play floppy diskettes that have the background/orchestration. If you look at each diskette, every one has a 4 or 5 album number (PD9004 or PD13002). If it has 4 numbers, that album is acoustic only (piano only). And if it has 5 numbers, it will have some kind of background music. And since you have speakers installed, I'm 90% sure you have that option.
The orchestra option also enables you to play different sounds, like a keyboard, as you play the piano if you have Record (TFT) option is also installed. And you do. The board with the MIDI in and MIDI out inside the rail cover IS called the Record Board and that connects to the TFT under the keyboard.
For the Solenoid, my guess is the the voltage to the solenoid is bad. It's very rare the solenoid fails. Test the solenoid output plug for voltage, if there is none there, the issue is most likely the board.
For electrical questions, you can contact Brad @ PianoDisc in the tech department. Be parpared, though, they might completely laugh at you because they stopped supporting that system 10 years ago. If you need parts, let me know... I have a limited source for blue board systems parts. I can always look.
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Dave Foster, RPT
Waterford MI
248-431-8804
Original Message:
Sent: 01-01-2017 14:31
From: Mark Roberts
Subject: Basic PianoDisc Questions
My wife recently purchased a PianoDisc piano. This is from 1994 and labeled PianoDisc on the fallboard(?) and soundboard. Some may have different opinions, but it's a win-win for us. My wife plays and I'm an electronics technician - so my questions will be largely around the PDS128 system.
I've managed to find various manuals including a service manual, but still have some questions.
Here is what we have:
- We do not seem to have the TFT option but not sure
- The control unit says only PDS128-S and is at SW version 4.6, and it lists Orchestra as an option(?)
- The piano has two AR powered speakers mounted and connected to the PDS128
- The main box underneath has the driver boards (pedal cable, PS, PDS connector) and Midi ports and a record light, power switch board at other end
- The power supply is the aluminum version
- All functions of the system except the sustain pedal/solenoid are working.
- I have a pile of diskettes provided with the piano and all read and play - but I do not have a factory test diskette
Questions:
- What does the Orchestra option do? I understand the accompaniment function.
- The sustain solenoid is not working. I checked for voltage to the solenoid while playing a diskette and nothing. I pulled the connector and measured the resistance of the solenoid and got 6.1 ohms. Also, when doing the Sustain Pedal Strike Force adjustment via the PDS128 programming, we get a "Byte Failure" at the end of the Sustain Pedal Hold Force test.
What I've done:
- Did initial tests above with no changes
- Pulled main power supply and changed all capacitors, fixed a few previous repairs and got the fan working.
- Checked all cables for continuity
- As an aside, someone had installed a small audio isolation box on the audio outputs to the PDS128, apparently due to hum. I also had pulled the AR speakers and found several bad caps (one shorted and one open). All the caps in the AR speakers were starting to leak - so caught that just in time!
So - a big list of topics for a newbie here. Hope you folks don't mind. Any assistance is appreciated!
Mark
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Mark Roberts
Farmington NY
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