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Basic PianoDisc Questions

  • 1.  Basic PianoDisc Questions

    Posted 01-01-2017 14:32

    My wife recently purchased a PianoDisc piano.  This is from 1994 and labeled PianoDisc on the fallboard(?) and soundboard.  Some may have different opinions, but it's a win-win for us.  My wife plays and I'm an electronics technician - so my questions will be largely around the PDS128 system.

    I've managed to find various manuals including a service manual, but still have some questions.  

    Here is what we have:

    1. We do not seem to have the TFT option but not sure
    2. The control unit says only PDS128-S and is at SW version 4.6, and it lists Orchestra as an option(?)
    3. The piano has two AR powered speakers mounted and connected to the PDS128
    4. The main box underneath has the driver boards (pedal cable, PS, PDS connector) and Midi ports and a record light, power switch board at other end
    5. The power supply is the aluminum version
    6. All functions of the system except the sustain pedal/solenoid are working.
    7. I have a pile of diskettes provided with the piano and all read and play - but I do not have a factory test diskette

    Questions:

    1. What does the Orchestra option do?  I understand the accompaniment function.
    2. The sustain solenoid is not working.  I checked for voltage to the solenoid while playing a diskette and nothing.  I pulled the connector and measured the resistance of the solenoid and got 6.1 ohms. Also, when doing the Sustain Pedal Strike Force adjustment via the PDS128 programming, we get a "Byte Failure" at the end of the Sustain Pedal Hold Force test.

    What I've done:

    1. Did initial tests above with no changes
    2. Pulled main power supply and changed all capacitors, fixed a few previous repairs and got the fan working.
    3. Checked all cables for continuity
    4. As an aside, someone had installed a small audio isolation box on the audio outputs to the PDS128, apparently due to hum.  I also had pulled the AR speakers and found several bad caps (one shorted and one open).  All the caps in the AR speakers were starting to leak - so caught that just in time!

    So - a big list of topics for a newbie here.  Hope you folks don't mind.  Any assistance is appreciated!

    Mark

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    Mark Roberts
    Farmington NY
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  • 2.  RE: Basic PianoDisc Questions

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 01-01-2017 20:46
    Hi, Mark. Doesn't that model have a little separate driver board for
    the sustain pedal solenoid, mounted near the pedal lyre? Check that one
    out, too. Or is it a separate little board inside the power supply? I
    forget, it's been so long since I have dealt with one of these. Others
    will chime in, I'm sure. Good luck
    --
    Clark A. Sprague, RPT www.clarkspianoservice.com




  • 3.  RE: Basic PianoDisc Questions

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 01-01-2017 20:50
    Oh, and if it has the TFT record system, it will have a touch rail under
    the front of the keys, with the appropriate cabling going in to it from
    the side of the keybed. Just take out the fallboard, keyslip, and
    cheekblocks to see it. DO NOT ATTEMPT to remove the action unless
    you know what you are doing, first, or you will snap off hammers, or
    putting it back, you will bend solenoid plungers. AMHIK. Clark
    --
    Clark A. Sprague, RPT www.clarkspianoservice.com




  • 4.  RE: Basic PianoDisc Questions

    Posted 01-01-2017 23:22


    Clark - thanks for the quick reply.

    These boards are under a cover that runs the width of the piano.  I have not ventured far enough to remove this cover as it looks like I need to disassemble some of the trap work...

    This is a view of the box with all the boards except the power supply:

    The board behind this left side of the cover has Midi In, Out, Through, a power button and Power, Midi Data, Standby and Record LED's:

    Left side of panel

    The damper solenoid:

    Sustain Solenoid

    And the right side of the metal case that has the input jack from the power supply and the PDS128 control jack.  This is where the Damper pedal is plugged in.  Blue wire nuts are as it came... so someone must have been poking around at this previously.

    I6uUAPV6Trey0aPuMjzF_IMG_1470.jpeg

    I'll look around a little more tomorrow.  I'm leery of doing anything with the fallboard or keyslip until I can have a qualified tech look the whole thing over.  

    Two more things to note; (1) with a good flashlight I can see a couple of disconnected ribbon cables near the top keys from behind.  Maybe TFT connectors?  And (2) I see aluminum colored action brackets... but wife reports no issues playing noticed.

    One more question - Aside from an eventual tuning, what kind of service should I request?  Regulation check?  Action bracket check with YC or PianoDisc?

    Thanks!

    ------------------------------
    Mark Roberts
    Farmington NY



  • 5.  RE: Basic PianoDisc Questions

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 01-02-2017 09:21

    Hello Mark,

    What you have there is what we called the Blue Board system.  All the circuit boards are blue, and that system was updated in 1997 to the Silent Drive (Green Board) system.  And as you already know, it's fairly old and it's susceptible to issues.

    The Orchestra option enables you to play floppy diskettes that have the background/orchestration.  If you look at each diskette, every one has a 4 or 5 album number (PD9004 or PD13002).  If it has 4 numbers, that album is acoustic only (piano only).  And if it has 5 numbers, it will have some kind of background music.  And since you have speakers installed, I'm 90% sure you have that option.

    The orchestra option also enables you to play different sounds, like a keyboard, as you play the piano if you have Record (TFT) option is also installed. And you do.  The board with the MIDI in and MIDI out inside the rail cover IS called the Record Board and that connects to the TFT under the keyboard.  

    For the Solenoid, my guess is the the voltage to the solenoid is bad.  It's very rare the solenoid fails.  Test the solenoid output plug for voltage, if there is none there, the issue is most likely the board.  

    For electrical questions, you can contact Brad @ PianoDisc in the tech department.  Be parpared, though, they might completely laugh at you because they stopped supporting that system 10 years ago.  If you need parts, let me know... I have a limited source for blue board systems parts.  I can always look.

    ------------------------------
    Dave Foster, RPT
    Waterford MI
    248-431-8804



  • 6.  RE: Basic PianoDisc Questions

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 01-02-2017 14:01

    Hi Mark, in addition to Dave's response I'll add that the cable in the action cavity that is unplugged is most likely for the TFT strip.  Exiting from under key 88 (top fat key) is a thin white band of metal  .....  this is a data cable.  It plugs into a very small circuit board that is usually mounted on the hammer rail.  Some techs mounted it on the side of the action cavity.  The opposite end of this little circuit board had the larger grey data cable with a silver end.  This cable makes it's way towards the back of the action cavity and passes through the slot where the key solenoids are.  From there it plugs into the record board previously mentioned.  The fact that you see some cables dangling, possibly disconnected may indicate that the "record interface board" may be missing or damaged.  It's only about an inch by an inch and a half.  When mounted on the side of the action cavity is was prone to breakage when the action was moved in and out of the action cavity.

    The earlier PDS units had a separate pedal board located inside the "rail cover" or that long black sheet metal cover that extends from treble to bass under the piano just behind the trap work.  On the pedal board were two adjustments for pedal hold force and pedal strike force.  Usually if the pedal solenoid isn't doing anything it was because the board was bad and needed to be replaced.  Sometimes it was simply because the solenoid was out of adjustment.  Grasp the long aluminum hex nut located on the end of the solenoid plunger and work it up and down.  If there's any movement upwards, that's probably your problem.  Adjust this large nut (and associated jam nut) to eliminate the "lost motion" and you may find your pedal solenoid starts to function again.  Ver 4.6 came out after this unit was born.  The software adjustments don't have any effect on the pedal solenoid.  That is done via the brass trimpots found on the pedal board.  I don't remember the adjustment procedure.  The voltage at the solenoid plug will be dependent upon whether or not the software is activating the voltage or not at any particular moment.

    Keep in mind you have a model 128 and not a 128plus.  We commonly called this model the 128 minus. 

    The "power" button on the record board when in the off position will cause the control box to light up, read the disk, but not activate the keys of the piano.  Small little bozos typically push this button just to make parents say affectionate things about them.  Sometimes it costs a piano owner a service call to learn this.

    AR stopped making the AR570 quite awhile ago.  The only failure I've seen in them is a blown speaker.  One speaker is typically enough sound to overpower the piano.  I usually turn one of them off.

    The P/S has fuses inside located in a very difficult place for service.  The 1/2 amp fuse was the one to fail.  I've replaced it with a 3/4 amp (AGC3/4) fuse and have not been scolded by the factory.

    The accompaniment sounds (everything but piano) won't be heard unless you have a speaker turned on, hooked up, volume up and have a five digit disk in the disk drive.  Dave touched on this subject.  In the software controls of the control box there's a balance control with a P on one end of the bar and an S on the other.  Start with it in the middle.  The volume of the piano won't track with the volume of the speaker at the low end of things.  You may have to have the overall volume of the piano up to at least a number 10 to get any audio out.  Some of the software with 5 digits has awfully long stretches of music that doesn't have any audio/orchestra, just piano.

    Find the default command in the menu and select it.  This will put everything at factory default including putting the balance at the middle.

    Test disk?  Uh  .......  oh that one.  If I look long enough I might find it  .......  but currently I don't have the incentive.  I have a hunch it's landfill fodder.

    You tested all the capacitors?  How?  You must have some awfully good test equipment.  I'm impressed.

    Lar

    ------------------------------
    Larry Fisher
    Owner, Chief Grunt, Head Hosehead
    Vancouver WA
    360-256-2999



  • 7.  RE: Basic PianoDisc Questions

    Posted 01-02-2017 17:10

    Great info - thank you very much for your time!

    When we have a tuner/tech out, I'll ask him to check to see if the TFT rail and PC board is present.  The only cable I could see floating loose was a flat gray ribbon cable with a black header.  Probably 10 conductor or so.  So the PC board may be missing.

    We did notice slack up and down from the sustain solenoid plunger, so will definitely look at that.  When I checked for voltage at the damper connector pins while playing, I expected to see a DC voltage when the solenoid was called for.  I will try again using the peak/hold function of my meter as the voltage may be pulsed to quickly for me to see.  I'm assuming the solenoids are DC.  AC would make a racket - both mechanically and from an electrical noise perspective.  But please correct me if I'm wrong. 

    On the PS, I actually totally dismantled it.  I replaced all the rubber transformer mount bushings as the old ones were shot.  These bushings would help keep transformer mechanical hum to a minimum, and the associated vibrations as it is so close to the sound board.  I replaced all the caps with new 105c, low ESR parts, and cleaned up a couple of what look like late production mods.  I also replaced the 8 amp bridge with a 10 amp bridge as the original had thrown a lot of heat.  I also added a heat sink to the bridge, and new fuses.  The fan had foam tape around the perimeter, I assume also to dampen vibrations, and that was all dried out and the blades were hitting the case.  So new tape installed and all is good.  Oh, and I found a relay contact file (for filing the open switched AC relay contact) floating around in the case!  Good thing it didn't lodge in the wrong place...

    I restore vintage electronics as a hobby so the speakers were right up my alley.  Any caps older than 20 years are just replaced - especially in high heat devices.  They dry out and can short or open.  This was the reason for the hum and why someone added the audio filter box on the PDS-128 audio outputs.  For these caps, a simple DVM and cap checker were all I used.  I do use a Sencore LC-102 for leakage tests and more serious capacitor/inductor work.

    So I will try all you guys have suggested.  Very much appreciate the info!  And if the test diskette should surface, I'd be much obliged and happy to compensate.

    Thanks again,

    Mark

    ------------------------------
    Mark Roberts
    Farmington NY



  • 8.  RE: Basic PianoDisc Questions

    Posted 01-03-2017 11:57
    Just a thought, sometimes circuits for solenoids will show there is a voltage present when not energized. A transistor in series completes the circuit to return and will energize the solenoid. Just a reminder so not to get fooled into thinking that if there is voltage present the it should be on

    Sincerely, Peter Banach





  • 9.  RE: Basic PianoDisc Questions

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 01-03-2017 19:30

    Ah yes, memory, a time treasured privilege.  From memory, the early TFT cables had a winged disconnect.  The cable end had two opposing tabs that when pushed away from the cable end would disengage the connection.  It's hard to explain in words.  It would get crunched as the action was taken out or put back in the action cavity.  The small circuit board interface was the answer to that problem.  Maybe there was an edge connector on the TFT end of things.  The cable end would simply slide onto the circuit board edge  .....  under key 88.

    Your mods to the p/s sound sensible.  Those old aluminum p/s's were noisy.  The AC hum was the first complaint I ever heard about the product. 

    The key solenoids were pulsed and after giving it some thought, perhaps the pedal solenoid was as well.  Strike force would be pulse width and hold force would be pulse amplitude  .....  or something close to that.  Check it with a scope.

    ------------------------------
    Larry Fisher
    Owner, Chief Grunt, Head Hosehead
    Vancouver WA
    360-256-2999



  • 10.  RE: Basic PianoDisc Questions

    Posted 01-03-2017 21:41

    Excellent thought to check with a scope.  I don't have schematics of the board driving the solenoid, but bet it's a power mosfet directly driving the solenoid.  I still have not removed the long cover to access the driver CPU board.  Scared of messing with the trapwork...

    The connector is a standard IDC ribbon and the one end I can see looks this:

    mypFU4PRqK1SH8Q79JxX_CAB.jpg

    And the hum.  It was not caused by the power supply.  It was caused by the powered AR speakers themselves.  One of the speakers apparently had the failed caps some time back, and the tactical fix was to put a small audio isolation filter at the PDS controller audio output jacks.  I'm only surmising this at this point, but before doing the speaker repairs and without the filter attached, the speakers (one of them anyway) had a noticeable hum.

    Again, appreciate the input here.  I now have several contact names/numbers to call PianoDisc and see if they'll listen to me and my questions!  Hopefully will find time to do that this week.

    ------------------------------
    Mark Roberts
    Farmington NY



  • 11.  RE: Basic PianoDisc Questions

    Posted 01-28-2017 15:43
    I wanted to share an update.  After a lot of work, I have a working pedal damper!  I pulled the trap work and case, and found the pedal driver board had suffered a catastrophic failure.  The probably undersized 1N4001 diode had shorted and taken out the MOSFET.  This also took out several other chips on the board.  It took a little work to source the MOSFET, but I replaced with a RFP30N06LE MOSFET, 8TQ08D diode (subbed for the 1N4001), DM7406N and a 74HC00AP and the damper pedal now works like a charm.

    I have a very happy wife now!  Thanks for the input!



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    Mark Roberts
    Farmington NY
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  • 12.  RE: Basic PianoDisc Questions

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 01-29-2017 02:56
    Thanks for the update Mark.  You're not only a very patient man but you are indeed resourceful to be able to find suitable replacements.

    From memory the 7400 was a hex and gate  ...  I think.  In a previous lifetime I repaired electronic organs and went through parts like this all the time.

    I see the two trimpots (brass screw heads) I mentioned in an earlier email. 

    I remembered what the test disk was all about.  Everything on that disk is now resident in the operating software of the current units.  If this piano has a record feature, you can make your own test disk in part.  (track one)Every note playback sequentially from left to right at equal force, (track two) sustain pedal on for about a second repeated about every two seconds.  One second on, one second off, for about 10 or 20 cycles or more. (track three) a test song, ... .and that's all I can remember.  There were a few other tests on there involving some chords but I don't remember what it was for.  The tests I mentioned were the ones I used.  If you've got those things to work with you can do all the fine adjusting.

    I'm glad you had success with the sustain pedal board.

    Lar

    ------------------------------
    Larry Fisher
    Owner, Chief Grunt, Head Hosehead
    Vancouver WA
    360-256-2999
    ------------------------------



  • 13.  RE: Basic PianoDisc Questions

    Posted 01-29-2017 14:39

    What a great, interesting thread!! Basic? Man, this was far from basic PD repair stuff, especially now days when we just replace boards and boxes. I mostly just upgrade them, but without this repair to the pedal, the upgrade would be impossible.


    I do not plan on personally repairing these units in this manner, but I use an electronics shop for this sort of stuff. So glad to know I can find these threads.

    Thanks for the detailed posts, pictures, and solutions!



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    Vincent Chambers
    Chico CA
    530-924-4469
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