Pianotech

Need to do some action work on a 1915 Ivers & Pond Grand piano.

Anyone familiar with how to remove the fallboard/upstop rail/cheek block assembly?  The upstop rail is attached to the name board on the fallboard assembly, making it impossible to remove unless someone else knows the trick (I'm sure there is one!).  Photo attached.

Thanks in advance for sharing the trick if you have encountered this type of assembly previously.

Probably comes out with the cheek blocks. Either screw underneath or underneath a button on top of the block 

Need to do some action work on a 1915 Ivers & Pond Grand piano.

Anyone familiar with how to remove the fallboard/upstop rail/cheek block assembly?  The upstop rail is attached to the name board on the fallboard assembly, making it impossible to remove unless someone else knows the trick (I'm sure there is one!).  Photo attached.

Thanks in advance for sharing the trick if you have encountered this type of assembly previously.

Probably comes out with the cheek blocks. Either screw underneath or underneath a button on top of the block 

Need to do some action work on a 1915 Ivers & Pond Grand piano.

Anyone familiar with how to remove the fallboard/upstop rail/cheek block assembly?  The upstop rail is attached to the name board on the fallboard assembly, making it impossible to remove unless someone else knows the trick (I'm sure there is one!).  Photo attached.

Thanks in advance for sharing the trick if you have encountered this type of assembly previously.

Tilt the fallboard partway out at a 45 deg angle and hold the fallboard in this position, then lift each cheekblock so that the dowels underneath clear the keybed. The whole assembly (fallboard, cheekblocks, upstop) can then be slid forward.  Holding the fallboard tipped forward will allow the room you need under the stretcher so you can lift the cheekblocks and slide the whole thing forward and out.  I wish I had a video, as it's easier to do than to describe.

Probably comes out with the cheek blocks. Either screw underneath or underneath a button on top of the block 

Need to do some action work on a 1915 Ivers & Pond Grand piano.

Anyone familiar with how to remove the fallboard/upstop rail/cheek block assembly?  The upstop rail is attached to the name board on the fallboard assembly, making it impossible to remove unless someone else knows the trick (I'm sure there is one!).  Photo attached.

Thanks in advance for sharing the trick if you have encountered this type of assembly previously.

Tilt the fallboard partway out at a 45 deg angle and hold the fallboard in this position, then lift each cheekblock so that the dowels underneath clear the keybed. The whole assembly (fallboard, cheekblocks, upstop) can then be slid forward.  Holding the fallboard tipped forward will allow the room you need under the stretcher so you can lift the cheekblocks and slide the whole thing forward and out.  I wish I had a video, as it's easier to do than to describe.

Probably comes out with the cheek blocks. Either screw underneath or underneath a button on top of the block 

Need to do some action work on a 1915 Ivers & Pond Grand piano.

Anyone familiar with how to remove the fallboard/upstop rail/cheek block assembly?  The upstop rail is attached to the name board on the fallboard assembly, making it impossible to remove unless someone else knows the trick (I'm sure there is one!).  Photo attached.

Thanks in advance for sharing the trick if you have encountered this type of assembly previously.

Tilt the fallboard partway out at a 45 deg angle and hold the fallboard in this position, then lift each cheekblock so that the dowels underneath clear the keybed. The whole assembly (fallboard, cheekblocks, upstop) can then be slid forward.  Holding the fallboard tipped forward will allow the room you need under the stretcher so you can lift the cheekblocks and slide the whole thing forward and out.  I wish I had a video, as it's easier to do than to describe.

Probably comes out with the cheek blocks. Either screw underneath or underneath a button on top of the block 

Need to do some action work on a 1915 Ivers & Pond Grand piano.

Anyone familiar with how to remove the fallboard/upstop rail/cheek block assembly?  The upstop rail is attached to the name board on the fallboard assembly, making it impossible to remove unless someone else knows the trick (I'm sure there is one!).  Photo attached.

Thanks in advance for sharing the trick if you have encountered this type of assembly previously.

Need to do some action work on a 1915 Ivers & Pond Grand piano.

Anyone familiar with how to remove the fallboard/upstop rail/cheek block assembly?  The upstop rail is attached to the name board on the fallboard assembly, making it impossible to remove unless someone else knows the trick (I'm sure there is one!).  Photo attached.

Thanks in advance for sharing the trick if you have encountered this type of assembly previously.

When you get the cheekblocks up, and the fallboard tilted, you should able to slide the action forward to be able to lift off the whole thing.  If the action won't move, there may be separate action hold-downs under the cheekblocks.  On a Monarch piano I service, there's a single screw on each end of the keyframe for this purpose.  It took me a long time to figure it out because you can't see under the cheekblock to see what's there.

If the action won't budge when you have the cheekblocks loose, you might have some leg or lyre screws which have entered the action cavity.  It might not be obvious when this happens.  If there are screws into the keyframe, it actually might still move when you push the unacorda.  

If you have the cheekblocks loose, the action should slide out, even if there's an upstop rail which is still attached to the action keyframe.  The only exception is those actions which don't shift but lift the hammer rail instead.  Those actions are screwed to the keybed.  Or there's a screw (to be accessed by removing the keyslip) which is just under the last key at an angle through the cheekblock. 

I'll let you know if/when I see another Ivers and Pond.  It might be quite a while, though!

Need to do some action work on a 1915 Ivers & Pond Grand piano.

Anyone familiar with how to remove the fallboard/upstop rail/cheek block assembly?  The upstop rail is attached to the name board on the fallboard assembly, making it impossible to remove unless someone else knows the trick (I'm sure there is one!).  Photo attached.

Thanks in advance for sharing the trick if you have encountered this type of assembly previously.

When you get the cheekblocks up, and the fallboard tilted, you should able to slide the action forward to be able to lift off the whole thing.  If the action won't move, there may be separate action hold-downs under the cheekblocks.  On a Monarch piano I service, there's a single screw on each end of the keyframe for this purpose.  It took me a long time to figure it out because you can't see under the cheekblock to see what's there.

If the action won't budge when you have the cheekblocks loose, you might have some leg or lyre screws which have entered the action cavity.  It might not be obvious when this happens.  If there are screws into the keyframe, it actually might still move when you push the unacorda.  

If you have the cheekblocks loose, the action should slide out, even if there's an upstop rail which is still attached to the action keyframe.  The only exception is those actions which don't shift but lift the hammer rail instead.  Those actions are screwed to the keybed.  Or there's a screw (to be accessed by removing the keyslip) which is just under the last key at an angle through the cheekblock. 

I'll let you know if/when I see another Ivers and Pond.  It might be quite a while, though!

Need to do some action work on a 1915 Ivers & Pond Grand piano.

Anyone familiar with how to remove the fallboard/upstop rail/cheek block assembly?  The upstop rail is attached to the name board on the fallboard assembly, making it impossible to remove unless someone else knows the trick (I'm sure there is one!).  Photo attached.

Thanks in advance for sharing the trick if you have encountered this type of assembly previously.

When you get the cheekblocks up, and the fallboard tilted, you should able to slide the action forward to be able to lift off the whole thing.  If the action won't move, there may be separate action hold-downs under the cheekblocks.  On a Monarch piano I service, there's a single screw on each end of the keyframe for this purpose.  It took me a long time to figure it out because you can't see under the cheekblock to see what's there.

If the action won't budge when you have the cheekblocks loose, you might have some leg or lyre screws which have entered the action cavity.  It might not be obvious when this happens.  If there are screws into the keyframe, it actually might still move when you push the unacorda.  

If you have the cheekblocks loose, the action should slide out, even if there's an upstop rail which is still attached to the action keyframe.  The only exception is those actions which don't shift but lift the hammer rail instead.  Those actions are screwed to the keybed.  Or there's a screw (to be accessed by removing the keyslip) which is just under the last key at an angle through the cheekblock. 

I'll let you know if/when I see another Ivers and Pond.  It might be quite a while, though!

Need to do some action work on a 1915 Ivers & Pond Grand piano.

Anyone familiar with how to remove the fallboard/upstop rail/cheek block assembly?  The upstop rail is attached to the name board on the fallboard assembly, making it impossible to remove unless someone else knows the trick (I'm sure there is one!).  Photo attached.

Thanks in advance for sharing the trick if you have encountered this type of assembly previously.

Sliding the action out a bit did occur to me - but alas the number of hands I have is only two.  Even with another person there to help, that step couldn't quite get coordinated to see if it would work.  Will keep that in-mind again for the next visit.

When you get the cheekblocks up, and the fallboard tilted, you should able to slide the action forward to be able to lift off the whole thing.  If the action won't move, there may be separate action hold-downs under the cheekblocks.  On a Monarch piano I service, there's a single screw on each end of the keyframe for this purpose.  It took me a long time to figure it out because you can't see under the cheekblock to see what's there.

If the action won't budge when you have the cheekblocks loose, you might have some leg or lyre screws which have entered the action cavity.  It might not be obvious when this happens.  If there are screws into the keyframe, it actually might still move when you push the unacorda.  

If you have the cheekblocks loose, the action should slide out, even if there's an upstop rail which is still attached to the action keyframe.  The only exception is those actions which don't shift but lift the hammer rail instead.  Those actions are screwed to the keybed.  Or there's a screw (to be accessed by removing the keyslip) which is just under the last key at an angle through the cheekblock. 

I'll let you know if/when I see another Ivers and Pond.  It might be quite a while, though!

Need to do some action work on a 1915 Ivers & Pond Grand piano.

Anyone familiar with how to remove the fallboard/upstop rail/cheek block assembly?  The upstop rail is attached to the name board on the fallboard assembly, making it impossible to remove unless someone else knows the trick (I'm sure there is one!).  Photo attached.

Thanks in advance for sharing the trick if you have encountered this type of assembly previously.

Employ a foot on the una corda to get the action moving from side-to-side, breaking the static friction. If friction is the problem, this will get it rolling. 

Sliding the action out a bit did occur to me - but alas the number of hands I have is only two.  Even with another person there to help, that step couldn't quite get coordinated to see if it would work.  Will keep that in-mind again for the next visit.

When you get the cheekblocks up, and the fallboard tilted, you should able to slide the action forward to be able to lift off the whole thing.  If the action won't move, there may be separate action hold-downs under the cheekblocks.  On a Monarch piano I service, there's a single screw on each end of the keyframe for this purpose.  It took me a long time to figure it out because you can't see under the cheekblock to see what's there.

If the action won't budge when you have the cheekblocks loose, you might have some leg or lyre screws which have entered the action cavity.  It might not be obvious when this happens.  If there are screws into the keyframe, it actually might still move when you push the unacorda.  

If you have the cheekblocks loose, the action should slide out, even if there's an upstop rail which is still attached to the action keyframe.  The only exception is those actions which don't shift but lift the hammer rail instead.  Those actions are screwed to the keybed.  Or there's a screw (to be accessed by removing the keyslip) which is just under the last key at an angle through the cheekblock. 

I'll let you know if/when I see another Ivers and Pond.  It might be quite a while, though!

Need to do some action work on a 1915 Ivers & Pond Grand piano.

Anyone familiar with how to remove the fallboard/upstop rail/cheek block assembly?  The upstop rail is attached to the name board on the fallboard assembly, making it impossible to remove unless someone else knows the trick (I'm sure there is one!).  Photo attached.

Thanks in advance for sharing the trick if you have encountered this type of assembly previously.

Thanks everyone for the great tips and explanations - hoping to apply them next week when replacing missing lyre support rods (curious how often those come up missing when pianos get relocated......).

------------------------------
Barb Bernhardt
GF Music Piano Tuning & Repair
Montrose, Colorado

Original Message:
Sent: 02-13-2025 08:54
From: Bill Ballard
Subject: 1915 Ivers & Pond Action Remova;

Employ a foot on the una corda to get the action moving from side-to-side, breaking the static friction. If friction is the problem, this will get it rolling. 

------------------------------
William Ballard RPT
WBPS
Saxtons River VT
802-869-3161

"Our lives contain a thousand springs
and dies if one be gone
Strange that a harp of a thousand strings
should keep in tune so long."
...........Dr. Watts, "The Continental Harmony,1774

Original Message:
Sent: 02-12-2025 23:45
From: Barbara Bernhardt
Subject: 1915 Ivers & Pond Action Remova;

Sliding the action out a bit did occur to me - but alas the number of hands I have is only two.  Even with another person there to help, that step couldn't quite get coordinated to see if it would work.  Will keep that in-mind again for the next visit.

------------------------------
Barb Bernhardt
GF Music Piano Tuning & Repair
Montrose, Colorado

Original Message:
Sent: 02-12-2025 22:59
From: Paul McCloud
Subject: 1915 Ivers & Pond Action Remova;

When you get the cheekblocks up, and the fallboard tilted, you should able to slide the action forward to be able to lift off the whole thing.  If the action won't move, there may be separate action hold-downs under the cheekblocks.  On a Monarch piano I service, there's a single screw on each end of the keyframe for this purpose.  It took me a long time to figure it out because you can't see under the cheekblock to see what's there.

If the action won't budge when you have the cheekblocks loose, you might have some leg or lyre screws which have entered the action cavity.  It might not be obvious when this happens.  If there are screws into the keyframe, it actually might still move when you push the unacorda.  

If you have the cheekblocks loose, the action should slide out, even if there's an upstop rail which is still attached to the action keyframe.  The only exception is those actions which don't shift but lift the hammer rail instead.  Those actions are screwed to the keybed.  Or there's a screw (to be accessed by removing the keyslip) which is just under the last key at an angle through the cheekblock. 

I'll let you know if/when I see another Ivers and Pond.  It might be quite a while, though!

------------------------------
Paul McCloud, RPT
Accutone Piano Service
www.AccutonePianoService.com
pavadasa@gmail.com

Original Message:
Sent: 02-12-2025 17:04
From: Barbara Bernhardt
Subject: 1915 Ivers & Pond Action Remova;

Need to do some action work on a 1915 Ivers & Pond Grand piano.

Anyone familiar with how to remove the fallboard/upstop rail/cheek block assembly?  The upstop rail is attached to the name board on the fallboard assembly, making it impossible to remove unless someone else knows the trick (I'm sure there is one!).  Photo attached.

Thanks in advance for sharing the trick if you have encountered this type of assembly previously.

------------------------------
Barb Bernhardt
GF Music Piano Tuning & Repair
Montrose, Colorado
------------------------------

Hello,

There are two other possibilities not yet mentioned:

The fallboard may be one that is removed by separating it from the brackets connected to the cheek blocks by tiny screws (2) located on the side of those brackets where they attach to the fall board. Hard sentence to write.

The front stretcher may need to be lifted up and removed. There may or may not be screws involved. Vintage American pianos often have this configuration with folding fall boards. Some of the older Schimmels needed to have the front stretcher removed. Just slid right up.

If the above is correct, hidden screws holding down the cheek blocks will be revealed.

------------------------------
Peter Acronico RPT
San Jose CA
(408) 838-2559
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 02-13-2025 10:09
From: Barbara Bernhardt
Subject: 1915 Ivers & Pond Action Remova;

Thanks everyone for the great tips and explanations - hoping to apply them next week when replacing missing lyre support rods (curious how often those come up missing when pianos get relocated......).

------------------------------
Barb Bernhardt
GF Music Piano Tuning & Repair
Montrose, Colorado

Original Message:
Sent: 02-13-2025 08:54
From: Bill Ballard
Subject: 1915 Ivers & Pond Action Remova;

Employ a foot on the una corda to get the action moving from side-to-side, breaking the static friction. If friction is the problem, this will get it rolling. 

------------------------------
William Ballard RPT
WBPS
Saxtons River VT
802-869-3161

"Our lives contain a thousand springs
and dies if one be gone
Strange that a harp of a thousand strings
should keep in tune so long."
...........Dr. Watts, "The Continental Harmony,1774

Original Message:
Sent: 02-12-2025 23:45
From: Barbara Bernhardt
Subject: 1915 Ivers & Pond Action Remova;

Sliding the action out a bit did occur to me - but alas the number of hands I have is only two.  Even with another person there to help, that step couldn't quite get coordinated to see if it would work.  Will keep that in-mind again for the next visit.

------------------------------
Barb Bernhardt
GF Music Piano Tuning & Repair
Montrose, Colorado

Original Message:
Sent: 02-12-2025 22:59
From: Paul McCloud
Subject: 1915 Ivers & Pond Action Remova;

When you get the cheekblocks up, and the fallboard tilted, you should able to slide the action forward to be able to lift off the whole thing.  If the action won't move, there may be separate action hold-downs under the cheekblocks.  On a Monarch piano I service, there's a single screw on each end of the keyframe for this purpose.  It took me a long time to figure it out because you can't see under the cheekblock to see what's there.

If the action won't budge when you have the cheekblocks loose, you might have some leg or lyre screws which have entered the action cavity.  It might not be obvious when this happens.  If there are screws into the keyframe, it actually might still move when you push the unacorda.  

If you have the cheekblocks loose, the action should slide out, even if there's an upstop rail which is still attached to the action keyframe.  The only exception is those actions which don't shift but lift the hammer rail instead.  Those actions are screwed to the keybed.  Or there's a screw (to be accessed by removing the keyslip) which is just under the last key at an angle through the cheekblock. 

I'll let you know if/when I see another Ivers and Pond.  It might be quite a while, though!

------------------------------
Paul McCloud, RPT
Accutone Piano Service
www.AccutonePianoService.com
pavadasa@gmail.com

Original Message:
Sent: 02-12-2025 17:04
From: Barbara Bernhardt
Subject: 1915 Ivers & Pond Action Remova;

Need to do some action work on a 1915 Ivers & Pond Grand piano.

Anyone familiar with how to remove the fallboard/upstop rail/cheek block assembly?  The upstop rail is attached to the name board on the fallboard assembly, making it impossible to remove unless someone else knows the trick (I'm sure there is one!).  Photo attached.

Thanks in advance for sharing the trick if you have encountered this type of assembly previously.

------------------------------
Barb Bernhardt
GF Music Piano Tuning & Repair
Montrose, Colorado
------------------------------

Thanks everyone for the great tips and explanations - hoping to apply them next week when replacing missing lyre support rods (curious how often those come up missing when pianos get relocated......).

Employ a foot on the una corda to get the action moving from side-to-side, breaking the static friction. If friction is the problem, this will get it rolling. 

Sliding the action out a bit did occur to me - but alas the number of hands I have is only two.  Even with another person there to help, that step couldn't quite get coordinated to see if it would work.  Will keep that in-mind again for the next visit.

When you get the cheekblocks up, and the fallboard tilted, you should able to slide the action forward to be able to lift off the whole thing.  If the action won't move, there may be separate action hold-downs under the cheekblocks.  On a Monarch piano I service, there's a single screw on each end of the keyframe for this purpose.  It took me a long time to figure it out because you can't see under the cheekblock to see what's there.

If the action won't budge when you have the cheekblocks loose, you might have some leg or lyre screws which have entered the action cavity.  It might not be obvious when this happens.  If there are screws into the keyframe, it actually might still move when you push the unacorda.  

If you have the cheekblocks loose, the action should slide out, even if there's an upstop rail which is still attached to the action keyframe.  The only exception is those actions which don't shift but lift the hammer rail instead.  Those actions are screwed to the keybed.  Or there's a screw (to be accessed by removing the keyslip) which is just under the last key at an angle through the cheekblock. 

I'll let you know if/when I see another Ivers and Pond.  It might be quite a while, though!

Need to do some action work on a 1915 Ivers & Pond Grand piano.

Anyone familiar with how to remove the fallboard/upstop rail/cheek block assembly?  The upstop rail is attached to the name board on the fallboard assembly, making it impossible to remove unless someone else knows the trick (I'm sure there is one!).  Photo attached.

Thanks in advance for sharing the trick if you have encountered this type of assembly previously.

Thanks everyone for the great tips and explanations - hoping to apply them next week when replacing missing lyre support rods (curious how often those come up missing when pianos get relocated......).

Employ a foot on the una corda to get the action moving from side-to-side, breaking the static friction. If friction is the problem, this will get it rolling. 

Sliding the action out a bit did occur to me - but alas the number of hands I have is only two.  Even with another person there to help, that step couldn't quite get coordinated to see if it would work.  Will keep that in-mind again for the next visit.

When you get the cheekblocks up, and the fallboard tilted, you should able to slide the action forward to be able to lift off the whole thing.  If the action won't move, there may be separate action hold-downs under the cheekblocks.  On a Monarch piano I service, there's a single screw on each end of the keyframe for this purpose.  It took me a long time to figure it out because you can't see under the cheekblock to see what's there.

If the action won't budge when you have the cheekblocks loose, you might have some leg or lyre screws which have entered the action cavity.  It might not be obvious when this happens.  If there are screws into the keyframe, it actually might still move when you push the unacorda.  

If you have the cheekblocks loose, the action should slide out, even if there's an upstop rail which is still attached to the action keyframe.  The only exception is those actions which don't shift but lift the hammer rail instead.  Those actions are screwed to the keybed.  Or there's a screw (to be accessed by removing the keyslip) which is just under the last key at an angle through the cheekblock. 

I'll let you know if/when I see another Ivers and Pond.  It might be quite a while, though!

Need to do some action work on a 1915 Ivers & Pond Grand piano.

Anyone familiar with how to remove the fallboard/upstop rail/cheek block assembly?  The upstop rail is attached to the name board on the fallboard assembly, making it impossible to remove unless someone else knows the trick (I'm sure there is one!).  Photo attached.

Thanks in advance for sharing the trick if you have encountered this type of assembly previously.

Above all, remember pianos are not grown. Someone built them.

Thanks everyone for the great tips and explanations - hoping to apply them next week when replacing missing lyre support rods (curious how often those come up missing when pianos get relocated......).

Employ a foot on the una corda to get the action moving from side-to-side, breaking the static friction. If friction is the problem, this will get it rolling. 

Sliding the action out a bit did occur to me - but alas the number of hands I have is only two.  Even with another person there to help, that step couldn't quite get coordinated to see if it would work.  Will keep that in-mind again for the next visit.

When you get the cheekblocks up, and the fallboard tilted, you should able to slide the action forward to be able to lift off the whole thing.  If the action won't move, there may be separate action hold-downs under the cheekblocks.  On a Monarch piano I service, there's a single screw on each end of the keyframe for this purpose.  It took me a long time to figure it out because you can't see under the cheekblock to see what's there.

If the action won't budge when you have the cheekblocks loose, you might have some leg or lyre screws which have entered the action cavity.  It might not be obvious when this happens.  If there are screws into the keyframe, it actually might still move when you push the unacorda.  

If you have the cheekblocks loose, the action should slide out, even if there's an upstop rail which is still attached to the action keyframe.  The only exception is those actions which don't shift but lift the hammer rail instead.  Those actions are screwed to the keybed.  Or there's a screw (to be accessed by removing the keyslip) which is just under the last key at an angle through the cheekblock. 

I'll let you know if/when I see another Ivers and Pond.  It might be quite a while, though!

Need to do some action work on a 1915 Ivers & Pond Grand piano.

Anyone familiar with how to remove the fallboard/upstop rail/cheek block assembly?  The upstop rail is attached to the name board on the fallboard assembly, making it impossible to remove unless someone else knows the trick (I'm sure there is one!).  Photo attached.

Thanks in advance for sharing the trick if you have encountered this type of assembly previously.

Thanks everyone for the great tips and explanations - hoping to apply them next week when replacing missing lyre support rods (curious how often those come up missing when pianos get relocated......).

Employ a foot on the una corda to get the action moving from side-to-side, breaking the static friction. If friction is the problem, this will get it rolling. 

Sliding the action out a bit did occur to me - but alas the number of hands I have is only two.  Even with another person there to help, that step couldn't quite get coordinated to see if it would work.  Will keep that in-mind again for the next visit.

When you get the cheekblocks up, and the fallboard tilted, you should able to slide the action forward to be able to lift off the whole thing.  If the action won't move, there may be separate action hold-downs under the cheekblocks.  On a Monarch piano I service, there's a single screw on each end of the keyframe for this purpose.  It took me a long time to figure it out because you can't see under the cheekblock to see what's there.

If the action won't budge when you have the cheekblocks loose, you might have some leg or lyre screws which have entered the action cavity.  It might not be obvious when this happens.  If there are screws into the keyframe, it actually might still move when you push the unacorda.  

If you have the cheekblocks loose, the action should slide out, even if there's an upstop rail which is still attached to the action keyframe.  The only exception is those actions which don't shift but lift the hammer rail instead.  Those actions are screwed to the keybed.  Or there's a screw (to be accessed by removing the keyslip) which is just under the last key at an angle through the cheekblock. 

I'll let you know if/when I see another Ivers and Pond.  It might be quite a while, though!

Need to do some action work on a 1915 Ivers & Pond Grand piano.

Anyone familiar with how to remove the fallboard/upstop rail/cheek block assembly?  The upstop rail is attached to the name board on the fallboard assembly, making it impossible to remove unless someone else knows the trick (I'm sure there is one!).  Photo attached.

Thanks in advance for sharing the trick if you have encountered this type of assembly previously.