Pianotech

Hello all,

Recently tuned a 9' Bluthner from 1935. I pulled the action to remove a key for ivory repair and noticed there were no glide bolts (yes, I looked underneath too). I'll be returning to do a little regulation-how do you bed the key frame? Is it a matter of sanding high spots, like bedding the front rail of a typical grand?

Scott,

I recently had a Bosendorfer 225 in here for rehab (from 1979) that likewise had no BR studs. The BR was bouncing in the breeze.  I considered installing studs, but that would also call for installing hardwood inserts in the keybed. Not fun. 

Upon conferring with the factory on the matter I was told that the front and rear rails should be planed down until the BR touches the keybed. Well, imagine that...they forgot about that at the factory!  After some deliberation I decided that that was a bit too much surgery at this stage of the game. So...what to do? 

I carefully ascertained the distance from the bottom of the BR to the keybed at various points (it was not the same all the way across and the action was removed). Then I installed self adhesive Teflon "disks" of the appropriate thicknesses to the bottom of the frame (plus just a tad as insurance in case of keybed flex). The "tap test" was the final arbiter for good contact throughout. Made a noticeable difference in the feel of the action. 

That was my solution to a very difficult problem.  Hope you can find one too. 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

Hello all,

Recently tuned a 9' Bluthner from 1935. I pulled the action to remove a key for ivory repair and noticed there were no glide bolts (yes, I looked underneath too). I'll be returning to do a little regulation-how do you bed the key frame? Is it a matter of sanding high spots, like bedding the front rail of a typical grand?

Scott,

I recently had a Bosendorfer 225 in here for rehab (from 1979) that likewise had no BR studs. The BR was bouncing in the breeze.  I considered installing studs, but that would also call for installing hardwood inserts in the keybed. Not fun. 

Upon conferring with the factory on the matter I was told that the front and rear rails should be planed down until the BR touches the keybed. Well, imagine that...they forgot about that at the factory!  After some deliberation I decided that that was a bit too much surgery at this stage of the game. So...what to do? 

I carefully ascertained the distance from the bottom of the BR to the keybed at various points (it was not the same all the way across and the action was removed). Then I installed self adhesive Teflon "disks" of the appropriate thicknesses to the bottom of the frame (plus just a tad as insurance in case of keybed flex). The "tap test" was the final arbiter for good contact throughout. Made a noticeable difference in the feel of the action. 

That was my solution to a very difficult problem.  Hope you can find one too. 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

Hello all,

Recently tuned a 9' Bluthner from 1935. I pulled the action to remove a key for ivory repair and noticed there were no glide bolts (yes, I looked underneath too). I'll be returning to do a little regulation-how do you bed the key frame? Is it a matter of sanding high spots, like bedding the front rail of a typical grand?

its good to know these things maybe it should be in the book that Wim was doing on issues like the growing brackets, seizing center pins, verdigris. Likewise there are pianos that have glide bolts that come up through the keybed and contact the front rail, pianos with accu-just hitch pins, verticals with sostenutos., pianos with aluminum plates etc

------------------------------
James Kelly
Owner- Fur Elise Piano Service
Pawleys Island SC
(843) 325-4357

Original Message:
Sent: 02-26-2023 14:28
From: Richard West
Subject: Bluthner: no glides

Original Message:
Sent: 2/26/2023 1:11:00 PM
From: Peter Grey
Subject: RE: Bluthner: no glides

Scott,

I recently had a Bosendorfer 225 in here for rehab (from 1979) that likewise had no BR studs. The BR was bouncing in the breeze.  I considered installing studs, but that would also call for installing hardwood inserts in the keybed. Not fun. 

Upon conferring with the factory on the matter I was told that the front and rear rails should be planed down until the BR touches the keybed. Well, imagine that...they forgot about that at the factory!  After some deliberation I decided that that was a bit too much surgery at this stage of the game. So...what to do? 

I carefully ascertained the distance from the bottom of the BR to the keybed at various points (it was not the same all the way across and the action was removed). Then I installed self adhesive Teflon "disks" of the appropriate thicknesses to the bottom of the frame (plus just a tad as insurance in case of keybed flex). The "tap test" was the final arbiter for good contact throughout. Made a noticeable difference in the feel of the action. 

That was my solution to a very difficult problem.  Hope you can find one too. 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com

Original Message:
Sent: 02-26-2023 10:45
From: Scott Cole
Subject: Bluthner: no glides

Hello all,

Recently tuned a 9' Bluthner from 1935. I pulled the action to remove a key for ivory repair and noticed there were no glide bolts (yes, I looked underneath too). I'll be returning to do a little regulation-how do you bed the key frame? Is it a matter of sanding high spots, like bedding the front rail of a typical grand?

------------------------------
Scott Cole, RPT
rvpianotuner.com
Talent, OR
(541-601-9033
------------------------------

Scott,

I recently had a Bosendorfer 225 in here for rehab (from 1979) that likewise had no BR studs. The BR was bouncing in the breeze.  I considered installing studs, but that would also call for installing hardwood inserts in the keybed. Not fun. 

Upon conferring with the factory on the matter I was told that the front and rear rails should be planed down until the BR touches the keybed. Well, imagine that...they forgot about that at the factory!  After some deliberation I decided that that was a bit too much surgery at this stage of the game. So...what to do? 

I carefully ascertained the distance from the bottom of the BR to the keybed at various points (it was not the same all the way across and the action was removed). Then I installed self adhesive Teflon "disks" of the appropriate thicknesses to the bottom of the frame (plus just a tad as insurance in case of keybed flex). The "tap test" was the final arbiter for good contact throughout. Made a noticeable difference in the feel of the action. 

That was my solution to a very difficult problem.  Hope you can find one too. 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

Hello all,

Recently tuned a 9' Bluthner from 1935. I pulled the action to remove a key for ivory repair and noticed there were no glide bolts (yes, I looked underneath too). I'll be returning to do a little regulation-how do you bed the key frame? Is it a matter of sanding high spots, like bedding the front rail of a typical grand?