Pianotech

I love / hate how this business teaches you something new every day.

Any tips on removing a broken Steinway hammer flange screw, broken off (of course) just below the surface of the rail?

I know about drills and ez-outs, I'm hoping some hard won tip might help me avoid the battle. 

For example, is there any benefit to heating the stub with a soldering iron...thinking that it might loosen the bond between wood and metal? 

How about soaking the rail in water first, to soften the fibers contacting the screw ( kidding, unless someone says it works...and even then....)

TIA

Hi Eric,

Here is what has worked for me in a similar situation: rather than trying to extract the broken-off screw from the wood in the rail, use a mini holesaw-like bit to remove the plug of wood that contains said broken-off screw. Install a new plug, drill for a new screw, and Bob's your uncle! (Please note that if using this technique for a non extractable let-off screw, it is helpful to drill the plug BEFORE installing it in the rail.) 

I look forward to hearing responses from others, as I suspect that there are simpler ways to wrangle this situation.

Best,

Alan

I love / hate how this business teaches you something new every day.

Any tips on removing a broken Steinway hammer flange screw, broken off (of course) just below the surface of the rail?

I know about drills and ez-outs, I'm hoping some hard won tip might help me avoid the battle. 

For example, is there any benefit to heating the stub with a soldering iron...thinking that it might loosen the bond between wood and metal? 

How about soaking the rail in water first, to soften the fibers contacting the screw ( kidding, unless someone says it works...and even then....)

TIA

Hi Eric,

Here is what has worked for me in a similar situation: rather than trying to extract the broken-off screw from the wood in the rail, use a mini holesaw-like bit to remove the plug of wood that contains said broken-off screw. Install a new plug, drill for a new screw, and Bob's your uncle! (Please note that if using this technique for a non extractable let-off screw, it is helpful to drill the plug BEFORE installing it in the rail.) 

I look forward to hearing responses from others, as I suspect that there are simpler ways to wrangle this situation.

Best,

Alan

I love / hate how this business teaches you something new every day.

Any tips on removing a broken Steinway hammer flange screw, broken off (of course) just below the surface of the rail?

I know about drills and ez-outs, I'm hoping some hard won tip might help me avoid the battle. 

For example, is there any benefit to heating the stub with a soldering iron...thinking that it might loosen the bond between wood and metal? 

How about soaking the rail in water first, to soften the fibers contacting the screw ( kidding, unless someone says it works...and even then....)

TIA

All those are good suggestions. In a similar situation, I once used a metal tube of the right diameter (in my case, from an old telescoping antenna), you might have something in your junk collection to save a trip to buy a new tool. File some rough, teeth use in reverse or forward. If it doesn't come out, put a little CA in the tube and reinsert until glue sets, then remove.

I love / hate how this business teaches you something new every day.

Any tips on removing a broken Steinway hammer flange screw, broken off (of course) just below the surface of the rail?

I know about drills and ez-outs, I'm hoping some hard won tip might help me avoid the battle. 

For example, is there any benefit to heating the stub with a soldering iron...thinking that it might loosen the bond between wood and metal? 

How about soaking the rail in water first, to soften the fibers contacting the screw ( kidding, unless someone says it works...and even then....)

TIA

I love / hate how this business teaches you something new every day.

Any tips on removing a broken Steinway hammer flange screw, broken off (of course) just below the surface of the rail?

I know about drills and ez-outs, I'm hoping some hard won tip might help me avoid the battle. 

For example, is there any benefit to heating the stub with a soldering iron...thinking that it might loosen the bond between wood and metal? 

How about soaking the rail in water first, to soften the fibers contacting the screw ( kidding, unless someone says it works...and even then....)

TIA

I've used the tubular extractor on a few occasions.  One plus it has that it's fairly straight-forward and you side-step the many possibilities of failure when turning out a recalcitrant screw which is stubbornly rusted in place.   The one drawback, and it was so noted explicitly on the package when I bought it: they tend to be brittle and easily broken.  And if you do break it off, say by biting into the stub of the screw, you could be worse off.  So go at it slowly and with care, preferably in a drill press if you can manage it.  And buy 2 of them; they're not expensive.

I love / hate how this business teaches you something new every day.

Any tips on removing a broken Steinway hammer flange screw, broken off (of course) just below the surface of the rail?

I know about drills and ez-outs, I'm hoping some hard won tip might help me avoid the battle. 

For example, is there any benefit to heating the stub with a soldering iron...thinking that it might loosen the bond between wood and metal? 

How about soaking the rail in water first, to soften the fibers contacting the screw ( kidding, unless someone says it works...and even then....)

TIA

Mine broke...

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

I've used the tubular extractor on a few occasions.  One plus it has that it's fairly straight-forward and you side-step the many possibilities of failure when turning out a recalcitrant screw which is stubbornly rusted in place.   The one drawback, and it was so noted explicitly on the package when I bought it: they tend to be brittle and easily broken.  And if you do break it off, say by biting into the stub of the screw, you could be worse off.  So go at it slowly and with care, preferably in a drill press if you can manage it.  And buy 2 of them; they're not expensive.

I love / hate how this business teaches you something new every day.

Any tips on removing a broken Steinway hammer flange screw, broken off (of course) just below the surface of the rail?

I know about drills and ez-outs, I'm hoping some hard won tip might help me avoid the battle. 

For example, is there any benefit to heating the stub with a soldering iron...thinking that it might loosen the bond between wood and metal? 

How about soaking the rail in water first, to soften the fibers contacting the screw ( kidding, unless someone says it works...and even then....)

TIA

What I previously incorrectly described as a "mini-holesaw" was actually, in fact, a tube extractor (my tool name for the day!). And yes, they are quite prone to loosing teeth in this operation, so be sure to have several in hand.

Alan

Mine broke...

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

I've used the tubular extractor on a few occasions.  One plus it has that it's fairly straight-forward and you side-step the many possibilities of failure when turning out a recalcitrant screw which is stubbornly rusted in place.   The one drawback, and it was so noted explicitly on the package when I bought it: they tend to be brittle and easily broken.  And if you do break it off, say by biting into the stub of the screw, you could be worse off.  So go at it slowly and with care, preferably in a drill press if you can manage it.  And buy 2 of them; they're not expensive.

I love / hate how this business teaches you something new every day.

Any tips on removing a broken Steinway hammer flange screw, broken off (of course) just below the surface of the rail?

I know about drills and ez-outs, I'm hoping some hard won tip might help me avoid the battle. 

For example, is there any benefit to heating the stub with a soldering iron...thinking that it might loosen the bond between wood and metal? 

How about soaking the rail in water first, to soften the fibers contacting the screw ( kidding, unless someone says it works...and even then....)

TIA