Pianotech

Anyone have any actual experience removing black stains from ivory.  I think it's Minwax  pentrating stain apparently used to blacken the sharps but transferred to the ivory via fingers before it was dry.  Not so much looking for speculation (I've tested every solvent there is on a key with no luck--naptha seemed to work best but not sufficient),  So any real world experience there would be appreciated.  

Anyone have any actual experience removing black stains from ivory.  I think it's Minwax  pentrating stain apparently used to blacken the sharps but transferred to the ivory via fingers before it was dry.  Not so much looking for speculation (I've tested every solvent there is on a key with no luck--naptha seemed to work best but not sufficient),  So any real world experience there would be appreciated.  

Before you destroy the ivory contact Walker Key Service in Kentucky who does excellent work on all types of keys including cleaning and polishing work. Dean Rayburn and other key refinishers may also have suggestions. 

Anyone have any actual experience removing black stains from ivory.  I think it's Minwax  pentrating stain apparently used to blacken the sharps but transferred to the ivory via fingers before it was dry.  Not so much looking for speculation (I've tested every solvent there is on a key with no luck--naptha seemed to work best but not sufficient),  So any real world experience there would be appreciated.  

Thanks, no intention of destroying the ivory.  For those interested, though, here are a couple of photos before and almost after (a few more steps followed after this after picture).  What I ended up using was "Goof Off Marks, Messes and Stain Remover" (see image at bottom).  This is different from the regular Goof Off that is readily available but didn't really work in this situation.  This GOMM&SR is a non water based formula so I sprayed it on the keys and let it sit about 20 minutes first application (did some testing on a single key first).  That lifted a lot of the stain from the ivory and seemed to have no effect on the glue joint.  Did that several times and got most of it out.  Still a few very faint shadows so tried baking soda paste, no luck.  Toothpaste, no luck.  Finally, just used some Hydrogen Peroxide 40, cream (20% I think) and sun bleached it for a few hours with new HD40 applications periodically watching it pretty carefully.  Didn't have any black lights (UV) otherwise would have used those to avoid the heat, though this is San Francisco, and might go out to get some UV bulbs for a final bleaching--though it's not really necessary at this point.  Did some final scrubbing with 0000 steel wool and flitz (the picture below is before that) and that removed most of the remaining evidence but probably could have gotten away without that.  Yet to buff out the ivory which now it has a decent matt finish, the ivory grain is still intact and any evidence of the stain is pretty much gone. Also took some denatured alcohol and cleaned off the residual black whatever it was from the sharps.  

Don't blame people for not weighing in.  This wasn't fun and a bit stressful.  The potential for making it worse is high and this is probably something not encountered very often if at all.  

Before you destroy the ivory contact Walker Key Service in Kentucky who does excellent work on all types of keys including cleaning and polishing work. Dean Rayburn and other key refinishers may also have suggestions. 

Anyone have any actual experience removing black stains from ivory.  I think it's Minwax  pentrating stain apparently used to blacken the sharps but transferred to the ivory via fingers before it was dry.  Not so much looking for speculation (I've tested every solvent there is on a key with no luck--naptha seemed to work best but not sufficient),  So any real world experience there would be appreciated.  

Thanks, no intention of destroying the ivory.  For those interested, though, here are a couple of photos before and almost after (a few more steps followed after this after picture).  What I ended up using was "Goof Off Marks, Messes and Stain Remover" (see image at bottom).  This is different from the regular Goof Off that is readily available but didn't really work in this situation.  This GOMM&SR is a non water based formula so I sprayed it on the keys and let it sit about 20 minutes first application (did some testing on a single key first).  That lifted a lot of the stain from the ivory and seemed to have no effect on the glue joint.  Did that several times and got most of it out.  Still a few very faint shadows so tried baking soda paste, no luck.  Toothpaste, no luck.  Finally, just used some Hydrogen Peroxide 40, cream (20% I think) and sun bleached it for a few hours with new HD40 applications periodically watching it pretty carefully.  Didn't have any black lights (UV) otherwise would have used those to avoid the heat, though this is San Francisco, and might go out to get some UV bulbs for a final bleaching--though it's not really necessary at this point.  Did some final scrubbing with 0000 steel wool and flitz (the picture below is before that) and that removed most of the remaining evidence but probably could have gotten away without that.  Yet to buff out the ivory which now it has a decent matt finish, the ivory grain is still intact and any evidence of the stain is pretty much gone. Also took some denatured alcohol and cleaned off the residual black whatever it was from the sharps.  

Don't blame people for not weighing in.  This wasn't fun and a bit stressful.  The potential for making it worse is high and this is probably something not encountered very often if at all.  

Before you destroy the ivory contact Walker Key Service in Kentucky who does excellent work on all types of keys including cleaning and polishing work. Dean Rayburn and other key refinishers may also have suggestions. 

Anyone have any actual experience removing black stains from ivory.  I think it's Minwax  pentrating stain apparently used to blacken the sharps but transferred to the ivory via fingers before it was dry.  Not so much looking for speculation (I've tested every solvent there is on a key with no luck--naptha seemed to work best but not sufficient),  So any real world experience there would be appreciated.  

Debra

 yeah I figured it was a longshot to get somebody with some experience in a similar situation but I thought I'd put it out there. What do you typically use to seal the sharps with? I think that's a good idea although I think that any finish that had been on there is now stripped away. I don't usually do that kind of ivory work I have somebody local who does this kind of thing for me and she's very good but this was something that I figured I'd have to experiment around with and feel fortunate to have found a solution. 

Thanks, no intention of destroying the ivory.  For those interested, though, here are a couple of photos before and almost after (a few more steps followed after this after picture).  What I ended up using was "Goof Off Marks, Messes and Stain Remover" (see image at bottom).  This is different from the regular Goof Off that is readily available but didn't really work in this situation.  This GOMM&SR is a non water based formula so I sprayed it on the keys and let it sit about 20 minutes first application (did some testing on a single key first).  That lifted a lot of the stain from the ivory and seemed to have no effect on the glue joint.  Did that several times and got most of it out.  Still a few very faint shadows so tried baking soda paste, no luck.  Toothpaste, no luck.  Finally, just used some Hydrogen Peroxide 40, cream (20% I think) and sun bleached it for a few hours with new HD40 applications periodically watching it pretty carefully.  Didn't have any black lights (UV) otherwise would have used those to avoid the heat, though this is San Francisco, and might go out to get some UV bulbs for a final bleaching--though it's not really necessary at this point.  Did some final scrubbing with 0000 steel wool and flitz (the picture below is before that) and that removed most of the remaining evidence but probably could have gotten away without that.  Yet to buff out the ivory which now it has a decent matt finish, the ivory grain is still intact and any evidence of the stain is pretty much gone. Also took some denatured alcohol and cleaned off the residual black whatever it was from the sharps.  

Don't blame people for not weighing in.  This wasn't fun and a bit stressful.  The potential for making it worse is high and this is probably something not encountered very often if at all.  

Before you destroy the ivory contact Walker Key Service in Kentucky who does excellent work on all types of keys including cleaning and polishing work. Dean Rayburn and other key refinishers may also have suggestions. 

Anyone have any actual experience removing black stains from ivory.  I think it's Minwax  pentrating stain apparently used to blacken the sharps but transferred to the ivory via fingers before it was dry.  Not so much looking for speculation (I've tested every solvent there is on a key with no luck--naptha seemed to work best but not sufficient),  So any real world experience there would be appreciated.  

Debra

 yeah I figured it was a longshot to get somebody with some experience in a similar situation but I thought I'd put it out there. What do you typically use to seal the sharps with? I think that's a good idea although I think that any finish that had been on there is now stripped away. I don't usually do that kind of ivory work I have somebody local who does this kind of thing for me and she's very good but this was something that I figured I'd have to experiment around with and feel fortunate to have found a solution. 

Thanks, no intention of destroying the ivory.  For those interested, though, here are a couple of photos before and almost after (a few more steps followed after this after picture).  What I ended up using was "Goof Off Marks, Messes and Stain Remover" (see image at bottom).  This is different from the regular Goof Off that is readily available but didn't really work in this situation.  This GOMM&SR is a non water based formula so I sprayed it on the keys and let it sit about 20 minutes first application (did some testing on a single key first).  That lifted a lot of the stain from the ivory and seemed to have no effect on the glue joint.  Did that several times and got most of it out.  Still a few very faint shadows so tried baking soda paste, no luck.  Toothpaste, no luck.  Finally, just used some Hydrogen Peroxide 40, cream (20% I think) and sun bleached it for a few hours with new HD40 applications periodically watching it pretty carefully.  Didn't have any black lights (UV) otherwise would have used those to avoid the heat, though this is San Francisco, and might go out to get some UV bulbs for a final bleaching--though it's not really necessary at this point.  Did some final scrubbing with 0000 steel wool and flitz (the picture below is before that) and that removed most of the remaining evidence but probably could have gotten away without that.  Yet to buff out the ivory which now it has a decent matt finish, the ivory grain is still intact and any evidence of the stain is pretty much gone. Also took some denatured alcohol and cleaned off the residual black whatever it was from the sharps.  

Don't blame people for not weighing in.  This wasn't fun and a bit stressful.  The potential for making it worse is high and this is probably something not encountered very often if at all.  

Before you destroy the ivory contact Walker Key Service in Kentucky who does excellent work on all types of keys including cleaning and polishing work. Dean Rayburn and other key refinishers may also have suggestions. 

Anyone have any actual experience removing black stains from ivory.  I think it's Minwax  pentrating stain apparently used to blacken the sharps but transferred to the ivory via fingers before it was dry.  Not so much looking for speculation (I've tested every solvent there is on a key with no luck--naptha seemed to work best but not sufficient),  So any real world experience there would be appreciated.  

Debra

 yeah I figured it was a longshot to get somebody with some experience in a similar situation but I thought I'd put it out there. What do you typically use to seal the sharps with? I think that's a good idea although I think that any finish that had been on there is now stripped away. I don't usually do that kind of ivory work I have somebody local who does this kind of thing for me and she's very good but this was something that I figured I'd have to experiment around with and feel fortunate to have found a solution. 

Thanks, no intention of destroying the ivory.  For those interested, though, here are a couple of photos before and almost after (a few more steps followed after this after picture).  What I ended up using was "Goof Off Marks, Messes and Stain Remover" (see image at bottom).  This is different from the regular Goof Off that is readily available but didn't really work in this situation.  This GOMM&SR is a non water based formula so I sprayed it on the keys and let it sit about 20 minutes first application (did some testing on a single key first).  That lifted a lot of the stain from the ivory and seemed to have no effect on the glue joint.  Did that several times and got most of it out.  Still a few very faint shadows so tried baking soda paste, no luck.  Toothpaste, no luck.  Finally, just used some Hydrogen Peroxide 40, cream (20% I think) and sun bleached it for a few hours with new HD40 applications periodically watching it pretty carefully.  Didn't have any black lights (UV) otherwise would have used those to avoid the heat, though this is San Francisco, and might go out to get some UV bulbs for a final bleaching--though it's not really necessary at this point.  Did some final scrubbing with 0000 steel wool and flitz (the picture below is before that) and that removed most of the remaining evidence but probably could have gotten away without that.  Yet to buff out the ivory which now it has a decent matt finish, the ivory grain is still intact and any evidence of the stain is pretty much gone. Also took some denatured alcohol and cleaned off the residual black whatever it was from the sharps.  

Don't blame people for not weighing in.  This wasn't fun and a bit stressful.  The potential for making it worse is high and this is probably something not encountered very often if at all.  

Before you destroy the ivory contact Walker Key Service in Kentucky who does excellent work on all types of keys including cleaning and polishing work. Dean Rayburn and other key refinishers may also have suggestions. 

Anyone have any actual experience removing black stains from ivory.  I think it's Minwax  pentrating stain apparently used to blacken the sharps but transferred to the ivory via fingers before it was dry.  Not so much looking for speculation (I've tested every solvent there is on a key with no luck--naptha seemed to work best but not sufficient),  So any real world experience there would be appreciated.