CAUT

  • 1.  gluing on leather replacement for fallboard spring contact surface on older Yamahas

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 20 days ago

    Greetings,

    A recent thread about gluing on keytops mentioned that if Roo glue is used, there is no need for clamping.

    We are replacing the leather on fallboards of older Yamahas where the spring attached to a key block interfaces with it (using Ecsaine) and have pondered how best to clamp the material to this confined curved surface. We have glued one with contact cement without clamping (other than firmly pressing the material to the wood upon contact).

    Has anyone done this replacement? With Ecsaine? What glue did you use? Was it necessary to clamp? (And if so, how did you accomplish that/)

    Thanks in advance,

    Alan



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    Alan Eder, RPT
    Herb Alpert School of Music
    California Institute of the Arts
    Valencia, CA
    661.904.6483
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  • 2.  RE: gluing on leather replacement for fallboard spring contact surface on older Yamahas

    Posted 20 days ago
    Hi Alan-

    It's been several years but I'm pretty sure I used a simple hot glue gun.  Those sticks dry very quickly with no special clamps needed necessarily.  They don't absorb into the leather much either.  There might be a better method but that worked with no problems later.   

    Good luck!
    D. 


    Dennis Johnson, R.P.T.
    Facebook.com/johnsonpianoservice
    (612) 599-6437  (cell)





  • 3.  RE: gluing on leather replacement for fallboard spring contact surface on older Yamahas

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 20 days ago
    I did several of these. I found fish glue worked very well. Good idea to rub powdered teflon into the bearing surface of the leather before gluing it in. 
    Regards,
    Fred Sturm
    "One's real life is so often the life that one does not lead" (Oscar Wilde)






  • 4.  RE: gluing on leather replacement for fallboard spring contact surface on older Yamahas

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 19 days ago

    I should mention that my reason for choice of fish glue is very fast tack time together with reversibility. It sticks well almost instantly (give it half a minute or so to tack for better results, and it's easy to scrape off (unlike Roo glue, contact cement, or Titebond). Not a nice place to scrape off a scraping-resistant glue residue.



    ------------------------------
    Fred Sturm
    University of New Mexico
    fssturm@gmail.com
    http://fredsturm.net
    http://www.artoftuning.com
    "We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
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  • 5.  RE: gluing on leather replacement for fallboard spring contact surface on older Yamahas

    Posted 20 days ago


    Some of you may very well be in tune to the characteristics of hyde glue. I was not aware of the some of the subtle types presented. You too might get answers to your general questions by watching this whole presentation. This guy really knows his stuff. ✌🏼

    https://www.facebook.com/share/r/14oLbcxKYgt/?mibextid=wwXIfr

    Hot hot glue tutorial from a professional


  • 6.  RE: gluing on leather replacement for fallboard spring contact surface on older Yamahas

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 19 days ago
    Isaac Sadigursky showed how to clamp in the new leather/Ecsaine by jamming a pen into the narrowing corner. Doesn’t matter what glue you use, but Titebond Quick & Thick is great for this. I scrape out old glue/leather with a Japanese bushing cloth knife, spread some glue, apply the leather, jam a pen or pencil in and hold the rest down for a minute, and let it dry while I’m tuning. Trim if necessary. Couldn’t be easier.