Pianotech

I prefer to replace the leather pad, or at least glue a new piece of leather onto it using UHU All Purpose Adhesive. 

Once I had a piano with this same problem.  VJ lube didn't do it, Pro-Lube didn't help.  When I mixed some powdered teflon into the VJ lube, it worked.  I can't say why, but it did.  The piano left town, so I don't know how long the "cure" lasted.  I doubt replacing the leather is going to solve the problem.  I never thought of using soap, so if it works, it's good.  I'll try it next time.  I'm not sure what kind of soap we're talking about (hand soap in a bottle or bar soap). 

A lot of times it's the rod itself rubbing on the guide hole near the top.  I'll often lube it there with Pro-Lube and it seems to help.  Squeaks seem to travel from where they originate to some other place, so it could be the pitman pin squeaking in the rubber bushing on the damper tray.  Some player systems have a double lever system that squeaks when the teflon wears through on one of the levers, and there's metal to metal contact.  Maybe it's not relevant in this case, but I've heard squeaks come from unusual places.

Hello Paul,

Ivory bar soap was recommended to me. I used it on a piano last week, just sanding the leather and then rubbing the soap into the leather. I just received this message:

Hi Peter just wanted to update you that the pedal has stayed quiet and is great in fact i feel like it is more responsive in addition to it not creaking.  So the soap was a win

Once I had a piano with this same problem.  VJ lube didn't do it, Pro-Lube didn't help.  When I mixed some powdered teflon into the VJ lube, it worked.  I can't say why, but it did.  The piano left town, so I don't know how long the "cure" lasted.  I doubt replacing the leather is going to solve the problem.  I never thought of using soap, so if it works, it's good.  I'll try it next time.  I'm not sure what kind of soap we're talking about (hand soap in a bottle or bar soap). 

A lot of times it's the rod itself rubbing on the guide hole near the top.  I'll often lube it there with Pro-Lube and it seems to help.  Squeaks seem to travel from where they originate to some other place, so it could be the pitman pin squeaking in the rubber bushing on the damper tray.  Some player systems have a double lever system that squeaks when the teflon wears through on one of the levers, and there's metal to metal contact.  Maybe it's not relevant in this case, but I've heard squeaks come from unusual places.

That creaking sound is a lower frequency version of fingernails on a blackboard, so I have no doubt that the absence will make the player feel much better and more relaxed.

Ivory soap traditionally has a high amount of beef tallow-sodium tallowate in it which is probably good for our purposes. Apparently now they are adding more plant based fats. Ideally you can find the old school classic formula. The ingredients are listed on the label.

Hello Paul,

Ivory bar soap was recommended to me. I used it on a piano last week, just sanding the leather and then rubbing the soap into the leather. I just received this message:

Hi Peter just wanted to update you that the pedal has stayed quiet and is great in fact i feel like it is more responsive in addition to it not creaking.  So the soap was a win

Once I had a piano with this same problem.  VJ lube didn't do it, Pro-Lube didn't help.  When I mixed some powdered teflon into the VJ lube, it worked.  I can't say why, but it did.  The piano left town, so I don't know how long the "cure" lasted.  I doubt replacing the leather is going to solve the problem.  I never thought of using soap, so if it works, it's good.  I'll try it next time.  I'm not sure what kind of soap we're talking about (hand soap in a bottle or bar soap). 

A lot of times it's the rod itself rubbing on the guide hole near the top.  I'll often lube it there with Pro-Lube and it seems to help.  Squeaks seem to travel from where they originate to some other place, so it could be the pitman pin squeaking in the rubber bushing on the damper tray.  Some player systems have a double lever system that squeaks when the teflon wears through on one of the levers, and there's metal to metal contact.  Maybe it's not relevant in this case, but I've heard squeaks come from unusual places.

Hello Paul,

Ivory bar soap was recommended to me. I used it on a piano last week, just sanding the leather and then rubbing the soap into the leather. I just received this message:

Hi Peter just wanted to update you that the pedal has stayed quiet and is great in fact i feel like it is more responsive in addition to it not creaking.  So the soap was a win

Once I had a piano with this same problem.  VJ lube didn't do it, Pro-Lube didn't help.  When I mixed some powdered teflon into the VJ lube, it worked.  I can't say why, but it did.  The piano left town, so I don't know how long the "cure" lasted.  I doubt replacing the leather is going to solve the problem.  I never thought of using soap, so if it works, it's good.  I'll try it next time.  I'm not sure what kind of soap we're talking about (hand soap in a bottle or bar soap). 

A lot of times it's the rod itself rubbing on the guide hole near the top.  I'll often lube it there with Pro-Lube and it seems to help.  Squeaks seem to travel from where they originate to some other place, so it could be the pitman pin squeaking in the rubber bushing on the damper tray.  Some player systems have a double lever system that squeaks when the teflon wears through on one of the levers, and there's metal to metal contact.  Maybe it's not relevant in this case, but I've heard squeaks come from unusual places.

So does this mean that I need to use Irish Spring on the return springs when they squeak? Asking for a friend.   😁

Hello Paul,

Ivory bar soap was recommended to me. I used it on a piano last week, just sanding the leather and then rubbing the soap into the leather. I just received this message:

Hi Peter just wanted to update you that the pedal has stayed quiet and is great in fact i feel like it is more responsive in addition to it not creaking.  So the soap was a win

Once I had a piano with this same problem.  VJ lube didn't do it, Pro-Lube didn't help.  When I mixed some powdered teflon into the VJ lube, it worked.  I can't say why, but it did.  The piano left town, so I don't know how long the "cure" lasted.  I doubt replacing the leather is going to solve the problem.  I never thought of using soap, so if it works, it's good.  I'll try it next time.  I'm not sure what kind of soap we're talking about (hand soap in a bottle or bar soap). 

A lot of times it's the rod itself rubbing on the guide hole near the top.  I'll often lube it there with Pro-Lube and it seems to help.  Squeaks seem to travel from where they originate to some other place, so it could be the pitman pin squeaking in the rubber bushing on the damper tray.  Some player systems have a double lever system that squeaks when the teflon wears through on one of the levers, and there's metal to metal contact.  Maybe it's not relevant in this case, but I've heard squeaks come from unusual places.

Hello, all. Nobody mentioned soapstone. It was our go-to when I was in school. It's dry and you can keep in in your shirt pocket like a pencil. 

I haven't seen VJ lube in a long time, but it was also a staple in the piano lab. It's Vaseline with molybdenum. Don't know what the J stands for. Surprising that it didn't work, but adding Teflon seems to be a logical enhancement.

Be cautious of bar soap. Many contain a number of palm and citrus acids. Others contain lye. Both of which are corrosive.

Short-term solutions with long-term consequences are contrary to good service and our mission.  

Hey Dave,

I had been told a couple of things about VJ lube that I can neither confirm nor disconfirm.

1) It is named after Vic Jackson

2) It consists of Vaseline, talc and lanolin

Can anyone shed some light on the accuracy of these claims?

Alan

Hey Dave,

I had been told a couple of things about VJ lube that I can neither confirm nor disconfirm.

1) It is named after Vic Jackson

2) It consists of Vaseline, talc and lanolin

Can anyone shed some light on the accuracy of these claims?

Alan

Hello, all. Nobody mentioned soapstone. It was our go-to when I was in school. It's dry and you can keep in in your shirt pocket like a pencil. 

I haven't seen VJ lube in a long time, but it was also a staple in the piano lab. It's Vaseline with molybdenum. Don't know what the J stands for. Surprising that it didn't work, but adding Teflon seems to be a logical enhancement.

Be cautious of bar soap. Many contain a number of palm and citrus acids. Others contain lye. Both of which are corrosive.

Short-term solutions with long-term consequences are contrary to good service and our mission.  

Hello, all. Nobody mentioned soapstone. It was our go-to when I was in school. It's dry and you can keep in in your shirt pocket like a pencil. 

I haven't seen VJ lube in a long time, but it was also a staple in the piano lab. It's Vaseline with molybdenum. Don't know what the J stands for. Surprising that it didn't work, but adding Teflon seems to be a logical enhancement.

Be cautious of bar soap. Many contain a number of palm and citrus acids. Others contain lye. Both of which are corrosive.

Short-term solutions with long-term consequences are contrary to good service and our mission.  

One other thing that works sometimes is sebum. Get it from the side of your nose.

Hello, all. Nobody mentioned soapstone. It was our go-to when I was in school. It's dry and you can keep in in your shirt pocket like a pencil. 

I haven't seen VJ lube in a long time, but it was also a staple in the piano lab. It's Vaseline with molybdenum. Don't know what the J stands for. Surprising that it didn't work, but adding Teflon seems to be a logical enhancement.

Be cautious of bar soap. Many contain a number of palm and citrus acids. Others contain lye. Both of which are corrosive.

Short-term solutions with long-term consequences are contrary to good service and our mission.