Just a random thought I had in the shop this morning! I learned the process from a luthier in my hometown, but I never thought to use it on pianos for some reason. Figured someone may have tried it at some point!
I usually use aniline dye, then whatever final finishing process bests suits the project.
Original Message:
Sent: 09-27-2024 22:43
From: Chris Chernobieff
Subject: Iron acetate for staining sharps?
There are great products available commercially and i see no reason to reinvent the wheel here. I use to use mohawk stains, but these day i prefer just using Black Lacquer as that will last decades and look beautiful too.
-chris
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Chernobieff Piano Restorations
Inventor of Inertia Touch Wave (ITW)
Advanced Resonant Compression Engineered Soundboards (ARCHES)
865-986-7720 (text only please)
Original Message:
Sent: 09-27-2024 20:58
From: Hugh Trott
Subject: Iron acetate for staining sharps?
I used always iron acetate (first pass), followed by oak leaves juice (clean the leaves, boil them, and filter). Finally you can burnish the wood, maple for example, and it gets as hard as ebony.
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Hugh Trott
musician
No affiliations
Original Message:
Sent: 09-27-2024 15:58
From: Mathias Walters
Subject: Iron acetate for staining sharps?
I'm curious if anyone has tried using iron acetate to ebonized cheaper, non-ebony sharps. Or maybe to deepen the color of real ebony?
To make iron acetate you dissolve steel wool in vinegar for ~1-7 days, straining out any remaining steel wool bits. Apply with a brush or pad. It reacts with the tannins in the wood, so it works best with high tannin woods like oak. The effect can be enhanced by applying black tea to the wood to add tannins.
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Mathias Walters
North Charleston SC
(843) 619-7593
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